The Onkyo TX-NR3007/TX-NR5007 common questions/issues/hints/answers thread - Page 146

I think the mic is bad to, But only one channel is the problem is really throwing me off, I must be missing something. With the yamaha mic is the distance and speaker levels right?
It seems crazy to have to spend 2k when you just may need a new $20 mic.

What happens with the onkyo mic is that after it gets the first speaker detect error it won't continue. Audyssey set up will only retry or cancel.

With the yamaha mic it passes the first speaker detect and just continues with the measuring but I always cancel it before it goes any further. It will probably run through the whole thing but of course all calibration will be incorrect.

My plan is actually to get a 3009, unpack the mic very carefully and try it in the onkyo 3007 and see what happens.

You can run the full test and get all the info, but you don't need to save it, if you want.
I've used the yamaha and poineer mics with the 3007 just for fun, the results do differ, but it does sound good, a softer high end, and the highs seem to blend in smoother than with the Audyssey mic, to some it may sound better !!

I might give it a go with the yamaha mic just for fun.

I have some updates. I took a good look at the Onkyo mic, straightened out the wire, basically wiggled abit where the wire goes into the mic.
Got another old speaker, dali ikon 6 that I had before switching to the new CM 9's, plugged it in as left speaker and it worked! No speaker detect error, after testing 3 other speakers. I figured wow, it really was the brand new speaker all along, I can finally take it back to the store and bitch a little bit. But then I just really wanted to verify so I plugged in the problem speaker again and....... Audyssey worked? After testing everything and trying for 3 days it worked? I ran the whole audyssey setup, 8 positions on a camera tripod and it worked.

I am almost convinced now more than ever that there is a connection problem with the mic. Gonna wait a few days then try to run everything again and see what happens.

Thank you guys for helping out, learned quite a few things. Especially you joehonest, thank's man!

I'm having an issuing getting the audio to play through my 5007 when using my Samsun BD-C6900. I get video but know audio. Everything is hooked up using HDMI cables.

Anyone have a suggestion?

Thanks,

Are you getting audio from other HDMI sources? Does your BD player require you to choose HDMI as the audio out vs Toslink?

It could be the first sign of HDMI board failure that plagues the x07 series. The bad news is that it will need repair. The good news is that Onkyo, in the USA at least, is repairing them under warranty even if they are technically outside the warranty period.

Does unplugging the unit from the mains, leaving it for 5 minutes and then plugging back in solve the problem?

Search the thread for HDMI failure and see the other symptoms and suggestions.

Just got my 3007 back from repair. (under warranty). New $600 HDMI board installed. Now we'll see how long it lasts.

Remember to ha have a fan installed above just from the start so that those problems don't creep up again.

if they fixed the problem this should be a non-issue but i doubt they did.....

There are oodles of people on this thread who had fans on the back 1/3rd of their units, and the units still failed...

The fans certainly delay the onset of the HDMI board failure though. And in some cases, depending on how the AVR is used, how much clearance it has etc etc, it may even eliminate the failure. AFAIK not *every* xx07 series owner has had the HDMI board fail (yet....).

The trick is to have the fan blowing into the case. Put the fan just off center to the left rear, over the caps and VPU. This is the strongest way to cool these parts. I use just one 80mm pc fan, @ 5 volts.

I read many tests on cpu cooling back in the day of 200+ watt single core. At close range blowing to the chip works best. Just to prove it, hold your hand 2 inches away from your mouth , suck air in than blow air out, feel the effect ! I have over 6500 hours on the onkyo clock, I leave it on if even when I don't use it for a few hours.

Thanks guys, maybe I should go buy a fan for my 1009. Hmmmm....

Would it be a good idea to "RESET" the numbers of hours on my repaired receiver and which buttons do I push to do it? (I know it's somewhere in this thread!). Thanx..

A quote from thr first post in this thread.

Temperature
Yes, they do get kind of hot! Leave plenty of room for the unit.
On the front panel, press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'TONE' to display
V:000 F:x S:L
T:037
not sure about the meaning.
Press down 'DISPLAY' and keep it pressed down while
pressing 'Standby', release both buttons and then press 'SETUP'
(US models show Farenheit instead of Celsius)
34°C 23 B1
02:00 68h

From Doug G: I just discovered quite by accident that by pressing "return" while viewing the temp and hours data they get reset! I was concerned when the display read something quickly about "data reset" so I went back in and as I expected the hours count is now zero.

Well, thats it my 3007 is dead. Cant bring back the speaker indicators with resetting and no sound.

Been giving problems for a while had to reset almost every time to get sound and now finally dead.

Bummer. Time to call Onkyo and get a new HDMI board. I've had my 1007 back for a week now and can't believe how much I missed it. Still love the sound and value in this receiver. I tried the Denon 4311ci while the 1007 was in the shop and it didn't come close to how good the 1007 sounds IMO. Good luck.

How much prob did they give you to fix it?

Did they ask for receipt? Serial number?

Did they send prepaid label?

Was yours out of warranty?

Yes, mine was out of warranty. I called and the following was sent to me via e-mail:

Please provide me with

Model#

Serial#

a Statement of the problem with the unit

A copy of your receipt

ALL your contact info.

I provided the information and they authorized the repair. The HDMI boards were out of stock when mine went in so that added time to the repair. Total took about 5 weeks at my local service center so I did not have to mess with shipping.

Got both my 807 and 3007 back in the last month with new HDMI boards. Seems like the 807 runs cooler now while the 3007 runs as hot as ever.

I was told to have the fan pull the air out of the case. Not to blow air into the unit.
Which is correct?

You want the fan mounted on the top of the unit to suck the air out of the unit, not to blow the hot air back in!

So true, but my way works best in this case, its called spot cooling. The GPU and more important the caps are heating up faster than your way can cool them down. My way targets the hot zone and blows away the heat and disburses it. The only way my way would not work is if the air is hotter than the chip and caps. Your way is pulling hot air towards the chips and caps and than blowing it out! If your avr is in a tight cabinet and on the top shelf were all the heat is than it will act like a oven. Heavy duty cooling is than needed to suck all the heat out of the cabenet. There is a science behind forced air cooling and a fan and vents used the wrong way will only make things worse. If people are still having failures than there way is not working!! Back to the drawing boards !!
Spot cooling is the way to go

And the proof is ..........?

SB

I read many tests on cpu cooling back in the day of 200+ watt single core. At close range blowing to the chip works best. Just to prove it, hold your hand 2 inches away from your mouth , suck air in than blow air out, feel the effect ! I have over 6500 hours on the onkyo clock, I leave it on if even when I don't use it for a few hours.

I'm not going to twist your arm, suit yourself.
Think about it.

So Joe, can you show us the way to "spot cool" the HDMA board or components in the NR5007/3007?

I always like to keep an open mind...

'Spot cooling' might work if it was possible to do it with an AVR. But it isn't. Well, at least not without extensive (and warranty-busting) modifications.

So putting fans on top of the unit and blowing the hot air back in is counterproductive.

Blowing down on the caps and gpu, which is left of center far rear (3007). If you can't figure that part out than its hopeless, good luck...