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The Onkyo TX-NR3007/TX-NR5007 common questions/issues/hints/answers thread - Page 147

post #4381 of 4660
4/8/12 at 1:19pm
Blowing into the unit will inevitably lead to further heating up, because the hot air will be distributed even further into the unit, which is counterproductive.
Additionally the air which hits the components will contain aerosols, dust particle etc. which will cause a built up of layers of sticky dirt, which sooner or later might cause component malfunction.
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post #4382 of 4660
4/8/12 at 1:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

Blowing down on the caps and gpu, which is left of center far rear (3007). If you can't figure that part out than its hopeless, good luck...



Judging by the quality of the answers you've provided when asked a reasonable question you are, in fact, an expert in the art of blowing hot air

SB
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post #4383 of 4660
4/8/12 at 6:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

Blowing into the unit will inevitably lead to further heating up, because the hot air will be distributed even further into the unit, which is counterproductive.
Additionally the air which hits the components will contain aerosols, dust particle etc. which will cause a built up of layers of sticky dirt, which sooner or later might cause component malfunction.

You could add a fan filter, if your worried about dust. A blast of compressed air wouldn't hurt. Dust, bugs, pet fur and whatever is all part of life and will end up inside anyway, the choice is all yours.
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post #4384 of 4660
4/8/12 at 8:48pm
I could see how using his example of blowing in air would work better. Actually I orginally thought the same but after all the reading on here, I decided having the fan suck the hot air out of the unit.
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post #4385 of 4660
4/11/12 at 5:40pm
Either way can possibly work. I work in the electronics industry, and they ALWAYS have the fans blowing out, kyocera, hp, sharp,
any air circulation, as long as it's not the same temp or warmer air than what's coming out is good....provided, of course, that you aren't forcing air into the pwb area that contains conductive particulate!!!! i.e. pieces of metal, conductive plastic, etc.

the real issue may be crappy components, that, ostensibly can't stand the heat, although we certainly don't know for sure that this is what is causing the failure!!

I've worked on equipment that failed, and had people indicate what they were doing (wiping a sensor, blowing canned air here or there) and sometimes their unit went longer, but I can assure you it was NOT from their "preventative" actions, it didn't factor into the repair equation at all.....just dumb luck. Because next week a guy would bring one in and he was doing the same thing (I could see evidence), but his didn't last as long as people that did absolutely nothing, and again, in the case I'm thinking about it was the manufacturer using components with too high of a tolerance. If it would have worked it would have saved them millions in costs...

Total error in engineering...

Steve
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post #4386 of 4660
4/12/12 at 3:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer View Post

Either way can possibly work. I work in the electronics industry, and they ALWAYS have the fans blowing out, kyocera, hp, sharp,
any air circulation, as long as it's not the same temp or warmer air than what's coming out is good....provided, of course, that you aren't forcing air into the pwb area that contains conductive particulate!!!! i.e. pieces of metal, conductive plastic, etc.

the real issue may be crappy components, that, ostensibly can't stand the heat, although we certainly don't know for sure that this is what is causing the failure!!

I've worked on equipment that failed, and had people indicate what they were doing (wiping a sensor, blowing canned air here or there) and sometimes their unit went longer, but I can assure you it was NOT from their "preventative" actions, it didn't factor into the repair equation at all.....just dumb luck. Because next week a guy would bring one in and he was doing the same thing (I could see evidence), but his didn't last as long as people that did absolutely nothing, and again, in the case I'm thinking about it was the manufacturer using components with too high of a tolerance. If it would have worked it would have saved them millions in costs...

Total error in engineering...

Steve

I think you are right on the money there. It's not the heat as such that is reducing the component life so much - it's the fact that the components can't take the heat. Higher specced components would have made the problem go away. Bean counting engineering, I guess.
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post #4387 of 4660
4/12/12 at 5:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

I think you are right on the money there. It's not the heat as such that is reducing the component life so much - it's the fact that the components can't take the heat. Higher specced components would have made the problem go away. Bean counting engineering, I guess.

Or counterfiet components!

A well known problem, particularly in Asia. An unscrupulous parts supplier will remove the markings from substandard parts (resistors, capacitors, diodes, and the like) and mark them so that they appear to be the properly spec'd pieces that the manufacturer thinks he's paying for.

I'm not saying that this is what's behind the problem that we're discussing here, but it's a distinct possibility. There was a magazine article about this (I wish I could remember exactly where I read it) a couple of years ago that detailed the trials and tribulations of several North American and European audio component manufacturers when they started up Asian assembly plants. And no, I'm not being racist (I just purchased a tube CD player made in China and I love it ). The problem is just something that appears to be common to Asian production.

Cheers,
SB
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post #4388 of 4660
4/12/12 at 5:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

Blowing into the unit will inevitably lead to further heating up, because the hot air will be distributed even further into the unit, which is counterproductive.

If the fan is in the far rear of the onkyo avr and is sucking the heat out, than it cause the caps and gpu to run even hotter, the fan will be pulling all the hot air to flow to the rear where the video broad is mounted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

Additionally the air which hits the components will contain aerosols, dust particle etc. which will cause a built up of layers of sticky dirt, which sooner or later might cause component malfunction.

I just added a filter to the fan, for 2 bucks (newegg) , the noise and air flow is somewhat less.
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post #4389 of 4660
4/12/12 at 6:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpotcheckBilly View Post

Or counterfiet components!

A well known problem, particularly in Asia. An unscrupulous parts supplier will remove the markings from substandard parts (resistors, capacitors, diodes, and the like) and mark them so that they appear to be the properly spec'd pieces that the manufacturer thinks he's paying for.

I can well believe this goes on. I'd have thought though that companies of the size of Onkyo would be aware of it and have effective QC countermeasure in place. Maybe not... Surely all they'd need to do is pull one in n for random testing and component authenticity verification? There must be some difference between the fake and real components (if not who cares?).

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpotcheckBilly View Post

I'm not saying that this is what's behind the problem that we're discussing here, but it's a distinct possibility. There was a magazine article about this (I wish I could remember exactly where I read it) a couple of years ago that detailed the trials and tribulations of several North American and European audio component manufacturers when they started up Asian assembly plants. And no, I'm not being racist (I just purchased a tube CD player made in China and I love it ). The problem is just something that appears to be common to Asian production.

Tube CD player SB? Link please!!
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post #4390 of 4660
4/12/12 at 7:00am
The suck and blow conversations is getting old

But I find it intersting that all computers I have ever seen suck air out of the case, not blow into it. Suck out the hot air and cool air will be drawn in.

If it wasn't in a case then blowing air across the board would be useful.

But either way I have never had a fan on mine. It is in an enclosed rack that has fans at the top of the rack. Oh and they suck also.
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post #4391 of 4660
4/12/12 at 9:31am
I now see the confusion here, the problem is not the heat in the case. The main problem is the break down of the video board, my fan placement is to cool the problem, not the amps. The amp in the 3007 has a fan too. But your right its getting old, good luck with your video borads, I've made my choice and with over 7000 hours on the clock, I'm good..
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post #4392 of 4660
4/12/12 at 3:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post



Tube CD player SB? Link please!!

It's a Jolida JD100A.
http://www.jolida.com/product/tubecomponents/jd100a
I just received it yesterday morning and have been listening to it nonstop. I'm very impressed. So is my wife

At the risk of coming across as an unabashed fanboy I'm including two other links:
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazin...lidajd100a.htm
http://www.underwoodhifi.com/tntjd100.html

To add some fuel to the fire I ordered a Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum tube intergrated with the new KT120 output tube option last week. Should be shipped by tomorrow from the factory (in Pennsylvania) to my dealer (in Kansas) and hopefully at my door in under a week from then.

Back to the topic at hand.

Cheers,
SB
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post #4393 of 4660
4/12/12 at 5:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpotcheckBilly View Post

It's a Jolida JD100A.
http://www.jolida.com/product/tubecomponents/jd100a
I just received it yesterday morning and have been listening to it nonstop. I'm very impressed. So is my wife

At the risk of coming across as an unabashed fanboy I'm including two other links:
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazin...lidajd100a.htm
http://www.underwoodhifi.com/tntjd100.html

To add some fuel to the fire I ordered a Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum tube intergrated with the new KT120 output tube option last week. Should be shipped by tomorrow from the factory (in Pennsylvania) to my dealer (in Kansas) and hopefully at my door in under a week from then.

Back to the topic at hand.

Cheers,
SB

Fascinating. Thanks SB. As you know I am committed to the idea of using a separate two channel system for my music. I'd love to compare this CD player with my Naim Audio unit. Hmmmm.....
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post #4394 of 4660
4/18/12 at 5:47am
FYI,

The repair center repaired my unit.

They claimed to have replaced:

1. Digital processing IC Chip
2. AC inlet socket

But guess I still got the crappy HDMI board in there.
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post #4395 of 4660
4/18/12 at 6:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

FYI,

The repair center repaired my unit.

They claimed to have replaced:

1. Digital processing IC Chip
2. AC inlet socket

But guess I still got the crappy HDMI board in there.

Interesting collection of parts that they replaced, especially the AC socket...

Maybe the Digital IC was on the HDMI board?
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post #4396 of 4660
4/18/12 at 6:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post


Interesting collection of parts that they replaced, especially the AC socket...

Maybe the Digital IC was on the HDMI board?

yeah, as long as it lives a long happy life i dont care, but im afraid i might have to do this again to the tune of $70 shipping!
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post #4397 of 4660
4/24/12 at 11:34am
Any one know if I can play Sirius over the internet to my Onkyo? If so, do you know the URL I need? I'm not having much luck with Sirius support getting that.

They told me to use https://www.siriusxm.com/player/, but when I put it in through my URL attached to the server, it won't save.

Any thoughts?

[edit]
Never mind. I changed my password to upper case on the Onkyo (even though I use lower case online), and it works.
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post #4398 of 4660
4/30/12 at 9:51pm
I have, All of a sudden, I think developed a problem with my Onkyo 3007 as it doesnt seem to decode a Dolby Digital TrueHD signal fed from my Oppo BD Player or my Dune H1. As far as I know it was working prevoiusly, and until I ripped my Ghost protocol BD and put it on the media server I didnt realise there was a problem. If I change the Oppo to decode and send LPCM over tho the Onkyo the sound is fine but if I send bitstream over the Onkyo it not only missinterprets the feed identifying it as DTS or Anything but it clicks away not being able to decode properly. This is only with Dolby TrueHD all other formats seem to work fine. I am really at a loss as I have ripped a good many of my BD to the Dune and this cannot decode DDTruehd so I cannot watch them. I know the Onkyo is supposed to decode Dolby truehd but I cant seem to fine a reason for what is going on.. any help appreciated......
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post #4399 of 4660
5/1/12 at 12:50am
My center speaker have a crossover frequency of 2400Hz. What would be the ideal setting to choose if I want to override the 50Hz audyssey measurement?
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post #4400 of 4660
5/1/12 at 4:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Egroeg View Post

My center speaker have a crossover frequency of 2400Hz. What would be the ideal setting to choose if I want to override the 50Hz audyssey measurement?

I think you are confusing two things here. The crossover in the speaker itself is the crossover from the tweeter to the woofer inside the speaker - in your case 2400Hz which is not unusual. The crossover determined in your Audyssey setup is the crossover frequency from the speaker to the separate external subwoofer. I would suggest raising it to 80 Hz. For more information, see the Audyssey FAQ here:

2. I often see advice to change the crossovers from what Audyssey has set to 80Hz. Why is this? Has Audyssey ‘got it wrong’? (click here)

4. Is it OK to change the Crossovers (XOs) from Audyssey's recommendation? (click here)
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post #4401 of 4660
5/1/12 at 4:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgodden View Post

I have, All of a sudden, I think developed a problem with my Onkyo 3007 as it doesnt seem to decode a Dolby Digital TrueHD signal fed from my Oppo BD Player or my Dune H1. As far as I know it was working prevoiusly, and until I ripped my Ghost protocol BD and put it on the media server I didnt realise there was a problem. If I change the Oppo to decode and send LPCM over tho the Onkyo the sound is fine but if I send bitstream over the Onkyo it not only missinterprets the feed identifying it as DTS or Anything but it clicks away not being able to decode properly. This is only with Dolby TrueHD all other formats seem to work fine. I am really at a loss as I have ripped a good many of my BD to the Dune and this cannot decode DDTruehd so I cannot watch them. I know the Onkyo is supposed to decode Dolby truehd but I cant seem to fine a reason for what is going on.. any help appreciated......

Has anyone else had this issue with the 3007? I am unsure what I should do
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post #4402 of 4660
5/1/12 at 5:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgodden View Post

Has anyone else had this issue with the 3007? I am unsure what I should do

I got the True HD fro the oppo working but seem to have an issue with the Dune H1 still. On the oppo i turned of Secondary Audio and the problem went away
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post #4403 of 4660
5/6/12 at 10:34pm
Hello All,

Just wanted to add my experience to this thread.

I have a 3007, purchased it around April 2010. Recently I started getting the "no sound" issue, and as of today I can't get the unit to output any sound and i'm not having any speakers light up on the left hand side of the display. I searched the web and found this thread and was shocked at how many people have had this issue.

Will call Onkyo support tomorrow and keep you guys updated as to any progress.

Sadly, after reading what I've read here, if Onkyo won't perform a warranty replacement I'm going to call it a day and switch back to Denon. This is my first "extreme" high end amplifier aside from my older Pioneer VSX-D1S and is the first to die in 2 years time.
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post #4404 of 4660
5/7/12 at 6:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by harjothundal View Post

Hello All,

Just wanted to add my experience to this thread.

I have a 3007, purchased it around April 2010. Recently I started getting the "no sound" issue, and as of today I can't get the unit to output any sound and i'm not having any speakers light up on the left hand side of the display. I searched the web and found this thread and was shocked at how many people have had this issue.

Will call Onkyo support tomorrow and keep you guys updated as to any progress.

Sadly, after reading what I've read here, if Onkyo won't perform a warranty replacement I'm going to call it a day and switch back to Denon. This is my first "extreme" high end amplifier aside from my older Pioneer VSX-D1S and is the first to die in 2 years time.


Welcome to the forum, wish it was to report better news, maybe Onkyo will come through!

So, April of 2010, so just out of the 2 year warranty?

Please keep us posted, mine is approximately the same age...
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post #4405 of 4660
5/7/12 at 8:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by harjothundal View Post

Hello All,

Just wanted to add my experience to this thread.

I have a 3007, purchased it around April 2010. Recently I started getting the "no sound" issue, and as of today I can't get the unit to output any sound and i'm not having any speakers light up on the left hand side of the display. I searched the web and found this thread and was shocked at how many people have had this issue.

Will call Onkyo support tomorrow and keep you guys updated as to any progress.

Sadly, after reading what I've read here, if Onkyo won't perform a warranty replacement I'm going to call it a day and switch back to Denon. This is my first "extreme" high end amplifier aside from my older Pioneer VSX-D1S and is the first to die in 2 years time.

Welcome to the forum. My 1007 had the same problem about 3 months out of warranty and they authorized the warranty repair. They replaced the HDMI board with no charge. Good luck, they should take care of you as well.
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post #4406 of 4660
5/7/12 at 5:14pm
Thanks for the support guys!

Called Onkyo but their warranty department had already closed. I will have to give them a ring earlier tomorrow since I am in California. I spoke to a guy on the general line (about hookup and troubleshooting, option 3 i believe) and he wasn't very helpful at all, advised me to email Onkyo as opposed to calling in.

Will update you all tomorrow!
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post #4407 of 4660
5/7/12 at 5:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post

So, April of 2010, so just out of the 2 year warranty?

Yes, just barely outside of warranty. Sadly, I've had the issue intermittently from the beginning. A firmware update was released which did help, but recently I found myself having to remove power more frequently to get sound to come back on. I hadn't added any additional fans as some people have discussed in this thread.
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post #4408 of 4660
5/7/12 at 6:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by harjothundal View Post


Yes, just barely outside of warranty. Sadly, I've had the issue intermittently from the beginning. A firmware update was released which did help, but recently I found myself having to remove power more frequently to get sound to come back on. I hadn't added any additional fans as some people have discussed in this thread.

I posted sometime back the person to email and the info to include in the email about getting warranty service, search my username and youll find it, id do it for you but im on phone....

D.Burke(onkyo) is just going to tell you to email him the info.....
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post #4409 of 4660
5/19/12 at 8:40am
Hello guys!

I am happy to report that Onkyo has authorized a repair despite the fact that i'm a month or two out of warranty! They gave me the address to a repair facility in Huntington Beach! Hopefully the repair won't take too long!

Thanks for all the help guys, if it wasn't for this thread I would have never known how widespread this issue is.. I figured I need to install cooling/circulation in my AV cabinet.. Anyone have suggestions? Push air from bottom to top through heatsink/fins, and a few up to pulling air from the HDMI boards, not pushing in?

Again, Thanks!
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post #4410 of 4660
5/20/12 at 12:31pm
Hello,

I've just bricked my 5007. What can i do?
I tried to update firmware via net. Firmware has downloaded, wrote to receiver and it turned of. There was nothing on screen (both TV and receiver) so i waited 5-10 mins and turned off/on it. There was some phrase i dont remember, then something was downloaded and written again. At last i saw "OK:Sum= XXXXX". I waited 5 minutes and turned in off again. After this i cant turn it on!!! No reaction on any button. What can i do with this receiver???
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The Onkyo TX-NR3007/TX-NR5007 common questions/issues/hints/answers thread