Urban Legend Theater construction thread - Page 3

Thanks for the pointer BIG. I'lll check it out.

I have no idea how you could tell from that pic but the sheet rock will indeed touch the sheetrock on the inside of the theater. The backside is clear. ant to shim the whole wall. Let me know if you think one or both of these ideas will work.

1) Three layers of sheetrock on that theater wall with just the slice that would touch the pole on the first layer removed.

2) two layers with just the slice removed on the theater side and then DD+GG on the backside in that cavity. Like this:

OK, point taken. How should I insulate that wall?seems like R13 on front and back side would compress the insulation too much and might defeat some of the decoupling of the staggared studs.

The HVAC main trunk that you can see running down the middle of the theater in pics at the beginning of this thread has been relocated to the side wall and will be contained in the theater soffit. This gives me a soffit arund 28"wide by 8" high which I think is a reasonable size for my room. Results in a nice size tray but the soffit will be occupied so I won't be able to put any can lights in them.



Now that the duct work is in, the firestopping will be trimmed and the drops will be built. Next, I also need to relocate a gas line and some speaker wire that followed the path of the old duct work.

Did you get this backwards? Insulation in a normal wall runs vertically (top to bottom). Did you mean to say that it is run horizontal (left to right) by weaving in and out of the studs?

The new trunks are lined on the inside.


I will certainly stuff insulation in any open cavities in the soffit. Do you think I need to leave even more room?

Drops will be attached directly to the walls since they are already decoupled and they will be attached to whisper clips and hat channel on the ceiling. And then the exterior will be DD+GG.

BTW, The HVAC contractors re-routed a run that they thought was done poorly. Now, my sons room, which is above our garage and is easily the coldest room in the house, is now a few degrees warmer. He is thrilled.

The column will be burried inside the wall. The issue is that the sheetrock will be touching the pole (on the inside of the wall) which reduces the effectiveness of the decoupling vie staggared studs and DC04 clips. Small issue but one that I will address.

EDIT: Just an update on the overall project. Plumbing and HVAC work should be done by Friday so I'll have more theater specific updates and pictures around the holidays. I might need some input on where to place my supply and return for the theater.

Some general questions: are these usually placed high or low? Wall? Ceiling? soffit? riser? etc? I know their is probably no 'right' answer but just trying to do what will make my life easiest. Seems like it would be a pain and possible an eyesore on the walls with all the fabric and treatment.

Will do.

Was looking at speakers and projectors.

What do you guys think of the B&W CT 800 Series?

Also, like many here I think my projector choice is down to the Panny PT-AE4000U and the Epson 8500 UB.

EDIT: Still waiting for some input on my HVAC supply and return question but I also have another one. Is size the ONLY reason people go with an AT screen? Seems like you would sacrifice both audio and video quality by going this route.

Question for the soundproofing gurus.

Here is a closeup of a section of wall with firestopping. This is a staggared stud wall that is decoupled from the floor joists above by DC04 clips (you can see one in the background). I'm assuming the contractor installed this firestopping due to local code. The section will ultimately be buried behind a soffit.

However, doesn't the vertical portion of sheet rock which is butted up against the horizontal portion just couple the wall back to the floor joists? What is the way to correct this and still maintain the firestopping capability? Should I cut the vertical sheetrock down to the top of the top plate and then stuff some rock wool in between the top plate and the horozontal sheetrock?

The ceiling will be decouopled with whisper clips and hat channel. The soffit will be connected to the ceiling by a channel and then directly to the (decoupled) walls. That DW is for firestopping only and is screwed directly to the joists.

My installation is more like this:



There will not be DD and GG inside the soffit.

Ted, it is NOT on an exterior wall. Yes the sheet rock is on the interior of the theater (but, again, would be contained behind a soffit). I was just using the term vertical and horozontal to point out which piece of sheetrock I was referring to. I really am not that familiar with the local codes. I assume it is there because it needs to be there (I will be sure to aks about it). He did use rock wool in some areas. So I thought it might be best to romove the top inch or so of sheetrock and then just shove rock wool in there. Assuming this meets the local fire codes, (I will make sure I ask him when he is here next) then FROM A SOUNDPROOFING PERSPECTIVE would it be better to have the rock wool instead of the sheetrock?

A friend of a friend has a HT store and gave me a killer deal on the CS in-walls. (his construction guy is booked for 6 months so I went out on my own for that. maybe I should have waited. ) I'm hoping I get a similar deal for the CTs. They still may be too expensive but until I get a number I won't know. Until then, they will remain on my wish list. BTW, anyone have first hand experience/knowledge with Artison? I'm looking at picking up either thier 600 or 300 in wall sub for my family room.

OK. Update. Ready for prewiring and then sheetrock. My wife is in charge of decorating. apparently she has a vision similar to this pic:



With round columns, it makes it pretty hard to bury speakers in them. Therefore, I was thinking of doing something like the pics below. Round columns and speakers mounter behind/in panels rather than the popular speakers in columns. Thoughts?









I prefer the seating in this (similar) setup though. I think I'm going with a round chair configuration. 4 seats in the front row and 5 seats in the second row.



Riser will be 10" (not 6 as listed)

Thoughts?

Quick update:

First, I wanted to show a few mistakes I made and what I did to correct them.

Side wall (with door) was configured as a staggared stud wall. The wall on the theater side would have touched a metal support pole so I had to fur it our with 1x2s so it cleared the pole.



Rear wall was also a staggared stud wall. I pushed it back as far as it could go. That was until all the hvac ducts were in. I needed to add another 2x4 wall to the rear in order to clear the dict work. Now I have a double wall and one of them is staggared studs. So glad you won't be able to hear anything in that unfinished space behind the theater.



In other news, you can see that the electric is in. I have my whole basement running on 3 Grafik Eyes with 5 Lutron single gang control pads throughout the basement. I have one of the Grafik Eyes at the bottom of the stairs. This would have been a 4 gang switch box if it was regular switches so I figured I would put one here and eliminate the need for another control pad.



The other 2 Grafik Eyes are in unfinished storage by the subpanel. A total of 18zones of Grafik Eye goodness.



Also, Bar plans are done. I'll post them when I get some time.

I spent today building boxes. 8 in total for 6 recessed lights and 2 hvac supplies. I was pretty much done when I realized I forgot to make one for the return.

What a mess I made with the GG and Sealant.

Electrical and framing inspections tomorrow. Wish me luck.

Electrical and framing inspections passed. I'm good now until the final. Here are pics of the boxes.

Ted-

Yes, they are. My boxes turned out to be 17.5"L x 12"W x 10"D. I wasn't sure which old work recessed my electrician was supplying. I also used extra 5/8" drywall I had lying around from my firestops instead of cement board. I looked at the guide and the Halo light the boxes were speced for and compared that to other brand 4" old work recessed. The boxes in the guide are 17.5"L x 10.625"W x 8.8125"D.

My dimensions are sightly larger since the drywall is thicker than the cement board and some fixtures are slightly taller than the Halo.

Here's the bar layout. I made one change to it. We are swapping the sink and the dishwasher locations.

Front


Back Bar


Top


Side