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Vets and Pros!!! Help a NOOB OUT : ) PLEASE!!!!!

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
Hey guys,

I am putting a sound system in my 1999 Toyota Avalon XLS and need a few pointers here....

What I have so far: (left overs)
Alpine CDA-9835
2x 12" Kicker L7's
5.0 Farad Cap

What I need:
-An Amp for the subs ( powerful enough but in a college students budget(2-300 max) I was looking at the Power Acoustic BAMF500, which I never buy their speakers, but I figured these days, components are components. (but yes, I am a noob.)

-I want new speakers all around (the doors all have 4" and up front there is two tweeters.)

QUESTION- Some recommend that you should widen the speaker hole and mount 5.25" speakers to get a more full sound, is this REALLY nec. having so much bass already?

-Can you recommend any specific speakers that you found particularly good that I should try out?

-I also need a good amp to run the cabin speakers.....


Thanks for anybody who reads this and helps me out a little, I could really use it.

-Chris
post #2 of 38
Thread Starter 
Anybody?

-Best high-powered budget mono-channel amp?(around 3-400)

-Best budget 4"-5.25" speakers? (around 3-400 for the 2 pair)

-Tweeters?!

-Best amp for the main speaks? (around 150-250)
post #3 of 38
AQ 2200d subs amp audioque.com.......sister comapny to one of the most highly regarded sub companies in the world, Digitial designs

alpine type-s 4", Boston acoustics S45, Polk audio db401 speakers

4 channel amp Alpine MRP-F300,
post #4 of 38
i would dump the cap. puts additional strain on the alt. if something is wrong with your electrical system, you simply need to upgrade wiring or alt.

i have had type-s 6.25 and 6x9's for a couple years now powered by an older memphis 75x4 amp. they have held up nicely over the years and sound good. i auditioned some polk 6x9's but switched to alpine. not because i did not like them, but because i decided to have alpine all the way around.

i installed that alpine 4 channel into a friends jeep this past summer and appeared to be a very solid amp.
post #5 of 38
o i overlooked the cap part as well.....but yes ditch the cap. I also suggested an amp earlier that may to large for your car to handle with out hurting the electrical. your car will have a rather small alt......so i would suggest investing in a nice/decent AGM battery first and upgrading the postive from the alt to the battery in atleast 4 gauge. You should then be able to handle a 1000watt amp pretty well....before i advise in more amp suggestions, ill need to know if the subs are dual 2 ohm each or dual 1 ohm each?
post #6 of 38
Thread Starter 
Wow, thanks for all the info. guys.

I will have to check what ohm they are tonight when I get home....

I actually just bought a new battery, which is larger than needed for my car. ( my car manual told me to buy a 600 cca batt. I believe, but I went with like a 7 or maybe 800 cca battery, just because I knew it would fit under the hood, can't have too much juice!)

Do you think If I upgrade the wires to and from the alt. that the electrical should be ok, basically not needing to go out and buy ANOTHER new battery?

And I didn't know this about Caps..?! Really? Dump it? I paid good money for it...

I mean if you SERIOUSLY think it is going to hur tmy car, of course I wouln't dare then ( as I am the noob taking the advice) I just think that I would prefer to add it in if you just think it is a precaution to throw it out.....

And as far as those speaker refs go, THANKS GUYS!!!
post #7 of 38
think of a cap as just one more thing your alt needs to continuously charge. basically taxing your electrical system more. quick search shows your standard alt to be 80 amps with the bigger being 100 amps. given your car is the xls model, i would assume it has the bigger of the two.

complete the "BIG 3". you need to upgrade the alternator to battery positive; engine ground to chassis; & battery neg to chassis. ideally you would want to use 1/0 awg wiring with a minimum of 4 awg. locate these wires, measure the length and go out and purchase the necessary length of wire. you can get this at lowes, home depot, etc. or go to a car audio shop where they sell wire by the foot. avoid solid core wire as it will be more prone to breaking. multiple strand wiring works best.
post #8 of 38
i only advise using your cap if your electrical is already stable and strong without it.....Doin the big three is the easiest and most cost effective way to get stable voltage to your amps. Also do not replace the factory grounds or power wire in the engine just "add" on to them with minimum of 4 gauge
post #9 of 38
Thread Starter 
I see...... So..............lets make sure I am getting all of this straight...

I understand well how to upgrade my wiring, Therefore after I upgrade my wiring I should:

Install system WITHOUT the cap at first, and if it is running fine (meaning no light dimming??????) then go ahead and add it in?

Thanks again for your input guys, It means a lot.

-Chris
post #10 of 38
Yup, see how it does without the cap, then add if your voltage is steady for the most part
post #11 of 38
Thread Starter 
Heh.. I like how you added "for the most part" : )

-Thanks
post #12 of 38
Thread Starter 
Hey guys,

Finally dug out the old L7's, and they are 2 ohm each. So now that I know they are 2 ohms, I look for the best amp?

Edit: Actually I am not sure what ohm they are, but it says " Dual 2 ohm voice coils" on the magnet.... It is a S12L7 (older model, grey with the half red half grey logo in the middle...)
post #13 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaty View Post

Hey guys,

Finally dug out the old L7's, and they are 2 ohm each. So now that I know they are 2 ohms, I look for the best amp?

Edit: Actually I am not sure what ohm they are, but it says " Dual 2 ohm voice coils" on the magnet.... It is a S12L7 (older model, grey with the half red half grey logo in the middle...)

Well that leaves you with series parrallel wiring to get to 2 ohms. Those l7s suck but they could easily take 2000 rms daily. For 300 bucks your not gonna find a good efficient quality amp. So your either gonna underpower them or clip the amp. Sell the cap. It's garbage. If you want to upgrade your electrical the right way buy a hi output alt, upgrade the wiring under your hood and get a good battery. ( xs powermaster IMO is top of the line ). I would check to see about a sundown audio sa1500d.

Edit nevermind. Forgot you need 2 ohms. That's a 1 ohm amp. Hell just sell one of the subs and cap and buy that sundown amp. It's gonna sound damn near the same anyways. Either your gonna underpower 2 or fully power one. Just a thought
post #14 of 38
Thread Starter 
I would consider selling one, but I don't think I can pull in that much for an old used sub.. esp. one that didn't have clarity to begin with!! (Got 6 shipped to me free by accident, don't know how and I didn't dare ask questions.


So why do you say I will need to under-power them? If the difference Is just because I need a more expensive amp, I will just wait a lil longer to save up for a better more powerful amp... Hell I have been without the system this long, I wouldn't mind waiting longer and making it right...

Thanks for you help man,

-Chris
post #15 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaty View Post

I would consider selling one, but I don't think I can pull in that much for an old used sub.. esp. one that didn't have clarity to begin with!! (Got 6 shipped to me free by accident, don't know how and I didn't dare ask questions.


So why do you say I will need to under-power them? If the difference Is just because I need a more expensive amp, I will just wait a lil longer to save up for a better more powerful amp... Hell I have been without the system this long, I wouldn't mind waiting longer and making it right...

Thanks for you help man,

-Chris


I didnt mean underpower them.. I said with those subs its better off to just give rated power or more, but just make sure youhave the gains set proper.. And its all in the enclose and how you build it.. I would get a good amp, the one I mentioned is pretty top notch
post #16 of 38
Thread Starter 
I see, if I am reading right though, that amp only puts out 800 rms.... To give it ample power wouldn't I want to go 1500 rms?
post #17 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaty View Post

I see, if I am reading right though, that amp only puts out 800 rms.... To give it ample power wouldn't I want to go 1500 rms?

the amp i said is under rated 1500 rms.. Sundown puts out tons of power in there amps.. they make badass subs as well


http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.ph...saz-1500d.html
post #18 of 38
thats why i said just use one sub, and wire it in parallel .. thats 1 ohm..
post #19 of 38
Thread Starter 
Yeah that is the one I am looking at. I am just a noob, please help me understand things a little more...

So the L7's I have are dual 2 ohm... What ratings for the amp do I look at..2 ohm?? And a mono-channel amp will do??
post #20 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaty View Post

Yeah that is the one I am looking at. I am just a noob, please help me understand things a little more...

So the L7's I have are dual 2 ohm... What ratings for the amp do I look at..2 ohm?? And a mono-channel amp will do??

1 L7 sub is dual 2 ohm.. So you take a chunk of wire , wire both positives together, then wire both negatives together, then take one positive from the sub to the pos of the amp, then one neg from the sub to the amp.. thats one ohm.. you have to either wire in series or in parallel otherwise yur gonna ruin your sub..

so if you have a dual 2 , parallel will drop it to one, and series will raise it to 4
post #21 of 38
post #22 of 38
Thread Starter 
Thanks MJ,

I was just looking at diagrams also...

Help me out here, which wiring method do you recommend?

I see that wiring down the ohm-age pulls more watts... What is the down-side to this? Maybe higher levels of distortion??
post #23 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaty View Post

Thanks MJ,

I was just looking at diagrams also...

Help me out here, which wiring method do you recommend?

I see that wiring down the ohm-age pulls more watts... What is the down-side to this? Maybe higher levels of distortion??

Distortion has nothing to do with it.. Ohm rating is basically a resistance rating.. So the smaller the ohm rating ( 1 ohm ) will be less resistance , therefore feeding it more power while 4 ohms is more resistance of electricity so less power.. the lower the ohm the more power you get, but if you wire an amp below its rating then you are overloading the amp, and will more than likely blow it..

We have run amps at 1/8 ohm before, but only for 2-3 seconds for burping subs
post #24 of 38
Thread Starter 
I see... So basically I just need to find an amp that runs ok @ 2 ohms and has an RMS @ 2 ohms of 1500, correct?
post #25 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaty View Post

I see... So basically I just need to find an amp that runs ok @ 2 ohms and has an RMS @ 2 ohms of 1500, correct?

umm , if your running one sub you need an amp that puts out max power at 1 or 4 ohms.. if your running 2 you need one that puts out max power at 2
post #26 of 38
a good amp that puts out full power @ 2 ohm is gonna be expensive, cuz most put out full power @ 1 .. if you had subs that were dual 4 ohm instead of dual 2 then you could run both subs at 1 ohm .. So in order to run both your subs at 1 ohm you would need 2 amps that put out max power at 1 ohm
post #27 of 38
Thread Starter 
I'll be using the 2 subs.

So, find an amp that runs more wattage @ 2 ohm compared to the wattage of 1 or 4 ohms?
post #28 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaty View Post

I'll be using the 2 subs.

So, find an amp that runs more wattage @ 2 ohm compared to the wattage of 1 or 4 ohms?


yea but like i said it could get pricey
post #29 of 38
Thread Starter 
Ok.

Just as a reference point(because I have already been guided away from this amp but... wouldn't the Power Acoustik BAMF400/1d work? For example, it states it is stable @ 1 ohm, but shows stats for other ohm setups... If I were to buy an amp that is 1 ohm stable, will I be pushing my luck using it @ 2 ohms???

EDIT:
Amp. Details:
@ 1ohm =2200 rms wattage
@ 2ohm = 1700 rms wattage
post #30 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaty View Post

Ok.

Just as a reference point(because I have already been guided away from this amp but... wouldn't the Power Acoustik BAMF400/1d work? For example, it states it is stable @ 1 ohm, but shows stats for other ohm setups... If I were to buy an amp that is 1 ohm stable, will I be pushing my luck using it @ 2 ohms???

EDIT:
Amp. Details:
@ 1ohm =2200 rms wattage
@ 2ohm = 1700 rms wattage

.. there are many variable to a quality amp.. if your paying $2000 for a 4000 watt amp ( quality ) or paying $300 for 4000 watts... its kind of obvious its not true.. its max power, its over rated, not well built etc etc

Its like you go to Best buy and see a 1000 watt amp for 200 bucks... its not 1000 .. not even close.. You gotta watch what you buy dude. If you wanna not spend a ton ill find you a good cheap amp that puts out 2000+ REAL watts at 2 ohms...
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