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Spaceman Theater build - Page 36

post #1051 of 1224
That is definitely an ABS component. Certainly contains the pump, but I don't know what other electronics are in there.

Each of those steel pipes is a brake line - 2 in (front and rear) and four out (one for each wheel). The pump can adjust pressure to each wheel individually, so the break-out happens there. Won't be cheap. frown.gif
post #1052 of 1224
If you have full coverage, it should be covered as a comp claim. But it will be up to your adjuster and insurance company.
post #1053 of 1224
id say ABS brake module


post #1054 of 1224
Thread Starter 
For those using scenes in their lighting setups, would you mind sharing how many you have and how each one is configured?
post #1055 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

For those using scenes in their lighting setups, would you mind sharing how many you have and how each one is configured?

Gladly! I'm just running off to the airport, but so far I have

"Welcome"
- assigned to the large ON button on my 6button pad. This is the "c'mon in and look how cool my room is". Turns on all accent lighting and some lights at various dims.

"All Off"
- the large OFF button at the bottom of the stairs (of the 6 button keypad). Turns everything off in the entire basement, including the fireplace. Neat thing is that it does it at different ramp rates, so the main lights go off quickly and the accent lights fade slowly (looks cool). Best of all, the stairs lights take 19seconds to fade out - that gives you plenty of time to walk up!

"Dark Movie"
- everything off execpt the stairs rope lights and the front sconces (real dim, about 5%)

"Watch TV"
- not super dark because we are generally moving about or multitasking.
- lights around screen off, including sconces
- lights over chairs slightly on (about 20%) so you can see remotes etc
- fireplace spotlights on
- riser area light on at about 40-60%
- no impact to gaming area/storage room. They stay whatever they are currently being used at.

"All ON"
- yep. It's bright.

"Accents"
- just accent lights and the screen wash.

... and some miscellaneous functions I needed that I used scenes to accomplish ...

"Stairs 3-way"
- a virtual 3-way circuit, since by code I need a 3-way cct but I had wiring restrictions at the top part of the stairs. (this is how I got started on insteon smile.gif )

"Game room"
- There are 8 pot lights in the gaming area, split into 2 zones (front and back) to allow darker gaming
- The 2 zones are actually on different electrical panels ! So the scene allows me to turn the room on-off completely or adjust each zone independently.



I think that is it for now. I'd like to do a how-to before I forget all this... maybe next week.
post #1056 of 1224
I just started playing with Houselinc to try and set up scenes for my 6 button keypadlinc. It doesn't seem like it is going to work exactly like I was hoping but I think I can get a workable solution. I can create scenes and assign them to any button on the keypadlinc which is what I wanted to do. The problem is you have to hit the same button to turn it off and it is possible to push multiple buttons on and really screw up the lighting. I'm still in the early stages of experimenting but ultimately I think I can get very close to what I want for my final solution. Now I just have to see if I can use the equipment that I currently have to connect irule to my Insteon control. rolleyes.gif
post #1057 of 1224
Andymo - What are you using to set up your scenes? Would definitely like to see some kind of how-to. I am just getting my feet wet but houselinc I think will offer me the flexibility I need.
post #1058 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by andymo View Post

"Welcome"
- assigned to the large ON button on my 6button pad. This is the "c'mon in and look how cool my room is". Turns on all accent lighting and some lights at various dims.

"All Off"
- the large OFF button at the bottom of the stairs (of the 6 button keypad). Turns everything off in the entire basement, including the fireplace. Neat thing is that it does it at different ramp rates, so the main lights go off quickly and the accent lights fade slowly (looks cool). Best of all, the stairs lights take 19seconds to fade out - that gives you plenty of time to walk up!

"Dark Movie"
- everything off execpt the stairs rope lights and the front sconces (real dim, about 5%)

"Watch TV"
- not super dark because we are generally moving about or multitasking.
- lights around screen off, including sconces
- lights over chairs slightly on (about 20%) so you can see remotes etc
- fireplace spotlights on
- riser area light on at about 40-60%
- no impact to gaming area/storage room. They stay whatever they are currently being used at.

"All ON"
- yep. It's bright.

"Accents"
- just accent lights and the screen wash.

Mine are very similar to Andymo's. On a 5-button keypad:

On - All zones on at maximum desired (100% on cans and rope, 20% sconces).
Pre-Show - Screen Wall off, side cans 30%, rear cans 30%, rope 85%, sconces 10%
Cinema - Screen Wall off, side cans 20%, rear cans 30%, rope 40%, sconces 10%
Sports Bar - Screen Wall off, side cans 30%, rear cans 50%, rope 70%, sconces 15%
Off

I use a slow ramp rate to move from "pre-show" to "cinema" - either 30 or 60 seconds - so no one notices the transition to a pretty dark room (I've made the "cinema" setting darker over time, too).

Jeff

PS - I had the ABS control unit bust on my vehicle. too - although mine was nice enough to do it casually, without the "visual indicators"... biggrin.gif Hope yours isn't the $2k mine was...
post #1059 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Andymo - What are you using to set up your scenes? Would definitely like to see some kind of how-to. I am just getting my feet wet but houselinc I think will offer me the flexibility I need.

While you can 'technically' do it all without an additional device, but to prevent your head from exploding you need something like HouseLinc or the UD ISY99i. I have the ISY99i and it works really well. To create scenes you just press a button and drag'n'drop devices.

I'll try to start working on the how-to on the plane. ;-)
post #1060 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

PS - I had the ABS control unit bust on my vehicle. too - although mine was nice enough to do it casually, without the "visual indicators"... biggrin.gif Hope yours isn't the $2k mine was...
From what I've read, it will be much more than $2k. Toyota is checking now to see if it's covered under one of the Sequoia recalls related to the ABS.


Quote:
Originally Posted by andymo View Post

While you can 'technically' do it all without an additional device, but to prevent your head from exploding you need something like HouseLinc or the UD ISY99i. I have the ISY99i and it works really well. To create scenes you just press a button and drag'n'drop devices.
I started tweaking the settings beyond 1 simple scene and it gave me a huge headache. I had to call it a night. I think I'm going to have to change a few buttons to act as "always on" and "always off" vs. the default toggle setting to get things to work the way I want.

If all of your buttons are tied up with scene-programming, what do you do if you just quickly want to turn on the rear cans? I don't have enough buttons to assign a dedicated button to each zone PLUS a dedicated button for each scene. Do you miss not being able to quickly control an individual zone without activating an entire scene?

If I have an 8-button keypad that allows me to create 8 scenes and I incorporate the Insteon IRLinc receiver http://www.smarthome.com/2411R/IRLinc-Receiver-IR-to-INSTEON-Converter/p.aspx that also controls 8 scenes, will that give me a total of 16, or does the IRLinc receiver replace what is controlled by the keypad? I'm thinking I could use the keypad for dedicated buttons to each zone and maybe the "Welcome" and "All Off" scenes since those would be triggered as you enter or leave the room. I would then have the IRLinc for all the transition scenes that I'd like to operate with the remote.
post #1061 of 1224
Spaceman,
Manually linking for scenes is not a lot of fun. Again, I use Houselinc, which works great. But then if you want to control things with your phone, you'll need a smartlinc. It would make sense at that point to just get an ISY.
You have 8 buttons to work with, -1 for the A load, which leaves 7. It would be nice to use 5 buttons to control the 5 other devices, but that only leaves 2, probably not enough.
Regarding scenes, you need an all off and movie watching, so two may be enough. Movie watching would need to be a non-toggle on, so a press will always set the scene on, and the all off is obviously a non-toggle off. If you have an ISY or Houselinc, then you can create other scenes for which you don't need a keypad button, that are controlled by your remote control via the IR linc or the ISY.
If you really want hard buttons for everything then just add another keypad, which does not need to be connected to a load. You can assign A to do whatever you want. Probably once you get things going with the theater you'll start adding other insteon devices around the house. That's just how it goes.
I hope things work out with the truck
E
post #1062 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by erichoya View Post

if you want to control things with your phone, you'll need a smartlinc.

E

There are a few options. I use MobileLinc. Works for me.
post #1063 of 1224
Hey Spaceman - glad to hear you're ok after that snafu with the car. Is Toyota going to take care of that for you or are you on the hook?

Lighting scenes...I have a lot programmed into my GE - I think it is one of the coolest aspects of the theater. Guests are always impressed with the automated lighting. I am using iRule (still learning!) with a lot of macros (i.e. "Start Movie" dims the lights, starts the disc and sets the volume to correct level). Beyond the basic all on/all off, here's how I have mine set up:

First, the most important: TV Mode - it's just enough light so I can aim the chips and salsa at my face while watching the Giants...overhead lights at 10% and step lights at 40%.

Welcome - Screen wash lights at 80%, overhead lights at 60%, Crown molding and step lights full on, plays Pandora at low volume.
Previews - 4 sec fade: Screen lights & crown molding off, overhead lights to 15%, step lights to 80%, loads disc and sets volume for previews.
Feature - 8 sec fade: Overhead lights off, step lights to 40%, crown molding to 40%, starts movie and sets .
Intermission - 4 sec fade: Step lights, crown molding, and lights behind screen to 100%, pause movie.
End Credits - This is a slow fade of about 1 minute that gradually increases crown molding and step lights to 100%, overhead lights and screen wash lights to 10%. This also slowly decreases the volume over that minute and then stops the disc. After another 5 minutes, it shuts the system off and sets the lights to all off.

I don't know how you plan to control everything (sorry, I should probably read your thread more carefully redface.gif), but maybe this will give you a few ideas/options.

Good luck!
post #1064 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone for all of the input on lighting scenes. Jautor is sending me a spare Insteon IRLinc receiver to play with so I'll start playing with different combinations once that arrives. I think between the receiver and the wall-mounted keypad, I can come up with something that works for me.

One more thing I would toss in the "Things I would do differently" pile is the zoning of my can lights in the side soffits. I have 3 lights in each of the side soffits, spaced a little less than 6' apart. The can closest to the front of the room is 3' from the screen. Currently, I have to dim the side cans almost to the off position to avoid casting an excessive amount of light onto the screen. This is fine for movies, but for tv/sports viewing, I would have preferred to have the side cans a little brighter. Putting the front-left and front-right side cans on their own zone would have given me greater control as I would have been able to turn those off and still bring up the other side cans that sit further from the screen.

Regarding the truck, a Toyota rep is supposed to look at it today to determine what their involvement will be. Fingers crossed.
post #1065 of 1224
I too am planning to use IRLinc & Harmony for remote controlling too, and heard some good thing of them work great together. I'll see when I start to programming mine. rolleyes.gif
post #1066 of 1224
Glad to see there is a thread with Insteon being discussed heavily. I am trying to decide what route I need to go with lighting controls. I have 6 zones I need to dim. I just bought two Global Cache GC100-12s to control my dimmers and av rack with iRule. I still need help deciding what I need to use to dim the lights. I have narrowed it down to the GE and the Insteon dimmers. My first question is how would I control the Insteon dimmers with iRule? Would I have to buy an IRlinc? What would the advantage be of having an ISY or Homelinc? Would I use that instead of my Global Cache or in addition? Which solution would be cheaper, GE or Insteon? I mainly want to be able to break my lights into as many zones as possible, setup activity based macros and use my iphones/android devices to control everything. I might also want one wall keypad for guests to use to control lights.

Thanks guys.
post #1067 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Thanks everyone for all of the input on lighting scenes. Jautor is sending me a spare Insteon IRLinc receiver to play with so I'll start playing with different combinations once that arrives.

Sent. Past tense. biggrin.gif Let's see if it gets there tomorrow...
Quote:
One more thing I would toss in the "Things I would do differently" pile is the zoning of my can lights in the side soffits. I have 3 lights in each of the side soffits, spaced a little less than 6' apart. The can closest to the front of the room is 3' from the screen. Currently, I have to dim the side cans almost to the off position to avoid casting an excessive amount of light onto the screen. This is fine for movies, but for tv/sports viewing, I would have preferred to have the side cans a little brighter. Putting the front-left and front-right side cans on their own zone would have given me greater control as I would have been able to turn those off and still bring up the other side cans that sit further from the screen.

I thought about using a metal shade, more a small vertical "shield" mounted on the soffit, between the closest cans and the screen to block light from hitting the screen from those first cans. I got the idea from real theaters, where you see similar things wrapped around the EXIT signs when they're close to the screen for the same reason. I haven't done this, though, as I just keep bringing the side lights down more every time I muck with them - and compensate with more light from the rear cans.
Quote:
Regarding the truck, a Toyota rep is supposed to look at it today to determine what their involvement will be. Fingers crossed.

Here's hoping! Do remember to use the words "on fire" in every sentence of any discussion with them! eek.gif
post #1068 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Glad to see there is a thread with Insteon being discussed heavily. I am trying to decide what route I need to go with lighting controls. I have 6 zones I need to dim. I just bought two Global Cache GC100-12s to control my dimmers and av rack with iRule. I still need help deciding what I need to use to dim the lights. I have narrowed it down to the GE and the Insteon dimmers. My first question is how would I control the Insteon dimmers with iRule? Would I have to buy an IRlinc? What would the advantage be of having an ISY or Homelinc? Would I use that instead of my Global Cache or in addition? Which solution would be cheaper, GE or Insteon? I mainly want to be able to break my lights into as many zones as possible, setup activity based macros and use my iphones/android devices to control everything. I might also want one wall keypad for guests to use to control lights.
Hi, wraunch. I'm new to all of this lighting automation myself, so I'm afraid I won't be much help on Insteon vs. other systems. I do know that forum member Vanice is planning an Insteon system and plans to operate it via iRule. You might want to check out his thread or send him a PM for more info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Sent. Past tense. biggrin.gif Let's see if it gets there tomorrow...
I thought about using a metal shade, more a small vertical "shield" mounted on the soffit, between the closest cans and the screen to block light from hitting the screen from those first cans. I got the idea from real theaters, where you see similar things wrapped around the EXIT signs when they're close to the screen for the same reason. I haven't done this, though, as I just keep bringing the side lights down more every time I muck with them - and compensate with more light from the rear cans.

I've considered swapping out the trim on those 2 cans to an eyeball type, but that would mean a different bulb and uneven lighting when all were on. I'll have to live with it for a while and see what happens. I already have plans to swap out the bulbs on my screen lights. I have spots in there now and think I'd get a nicer pattern with floods.

Another thing I've noticed is the high-pitched ringing I get from my side & rear can lights. Each of those contain 45W R20 floods and cause a ringing in my ears when on. The 3 screen cans have 39W PAR20 bulbs and are much quieter. I wish I had noticed this before buying a lifetime supply of the R20s.
post #1069 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Another thing I've noticed is the high-pitched ringing I get from my side & rear can lights. Each of those contain 45W R20 floods and cause a ringing in my ears when on. The 3 screen cans have 39W PAR20 bulbs and are much quieter. I wish I had noticed this before buying a lifetime supply of the R20s.

Darnit!

Did I mention in my thread I had that issue with some standard incandescent bulbs in my sconces? I think I bought, originally, the cheap Philips bulbs, but they rang noticeably at the dimmed levels I needed. I replaced those with GE bulbs that are much better. At least I had a place for those bulbs in some table lamps (no noise when used at 100%).
post #1070 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

One more thing I would toss in the "Things I would do differently" pile is the zoning of my can lights in the side soffits. I have 3 lights in each of the side soffits, spaced a little less than 6' apart. The can closest to the front of the room is 3' from the screen. Currently, I have to dim the side cans almost to the off position to avoid casting an excessive amount of light onto the screen.

Same here - I've gone to just leaving two dead bulbs in those front-most soffit cans. rolleyes.gif
post #1071 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Darnit!

Did I mention in my thread I had that issue with some standard incandescent bulbs in my sconces? I think I bought, originally, the cheap Philips bulbs, but they rang noticeably at the dimmed levels I needed. I replaced those with GE bulbs that are much better. At least I had a place for those bulbs in some table lamps (no noise when used at 100%).

Mine are also cheap Philips bulbs. I guess I need to find the results of my head-to-head bulb shoot-out to see which ones finished just behind the Philips in final voting.

Just went through my receipts and found that I have about 10 days left on the 90-day return policy for most of the bulbs. Looks like I'll be able to return about $65 worth.
post #1072 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Sent. Past tense. biggrin.gif Let's see if it gets there tomorrow...

Now that's service. It arrived earlier today and I just finished printing the 13 page owner's manual from the Smarthome website. Between the IRLinc, the keypad, the dimmers and toggle switches, I now have my own Insteon binder with over 75 pages of operating instructions. It's starting to rival the manual that came with my Denon receiver.

Hope to get a chance to try it out later tonight. Thanks again.

Looks like shipping was $5. Is that about right?
post #1073 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post


Now that's service. It arrived earlier today and I just finished printing the 13 page owner's manual from the Smarthome website. Between the IRLinc, the keypad, the dimmers and toggle switches, I now have my own Insteon binder with over 75 pages of operating instructions. It's starting to rival the manual that came with my Denon receiver.

Hope to get a chance to try it out later tonight. Thanks again.

Looks like shipping was $5. Is that about right?

 

Looking forward to your feedback to see if I can convince the wife to allow us to go over budge and shell out another $1K for lighting control !

post #1074 of 1224
Thread Starter 
I'm well under $1k. How many dimmers do you need??eek.gif
post #1075 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I'm well under $1k. How many dimmers do you need??eek.gif

My problem is I have mostly 3 way circuits, so they tell me I need dimmers on both sides...

 

So I need 16 dimmers - remember I have an OPEN CONCEPT theater...so I have  BAR Area and Sitting/Play room that are all "connected"

 

Plus the IR Link that is $100 or so...

 

Plus a keypad...

 

Priceless

post #1076 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Wow. With that many dimmers, you really need some type of automation. You just need to sell it correctly to your wife. It's not really a $1000 upgrade to get automation. You would be spending some of that on standard dimmers and switches anyway.
post #1077 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Wow. With that many dimmers, you really need some type of automation. You just need to sell it correctly to your wife. It's not really a $1000 upgrade to get automation. You would be spending some of that on standard dimmers and switches anyway.

 

Hey that is a great selling point, if I would have been smarter..problem is they already are all switched and wired up  :)

post #1078 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Can't help you there. wink.gif
post #1079 of 1224
Thread Starter 
After several hours of tweaking, I have the Insteon IRLinc up and running and programmed into a URC R40 universal remote.

Here is a link to the receiver and a pic.


My remote didn't contain the Insteon IR codes so I had to learn them from the credit card remote that came with the IRLinc. Right now, I have each of the following scenes programmed on a dedicated button within the universal remote's lighting menu:

1. Welcome: Screen cans 50%, Side cans 50%, Rear cans 50%, Black lights for stars on, step lights on
2. Previews: Screen cans off, Side cans 20%, Rear cans 30%, Black lights for stars on, step lights on
3. Movie: Screen cans off, Side cans off, Rear cans off, Black lights for stars off, step lights on
4. TV (Sports): Screen cans off, Side cans 10%, Rear cans 20%, Black lights for stars on, step lights on
5. Pause TV (Intermission): Screen cans off, Side cans 30%, Rear cans 30%, Black lights for stars on, step lights on
6. Pause Movie (Intermission): Screen cans off, Side cans 30%, Rear cans 30%, Black lights for stars off, step lights on

I'm sure these will be adjusted as I actually use them, but this seemed like a good starting point. To simplify things, I'm already thinking I might change my "Preview" scene to be my "Welcome" scene, so I can already have trivia slides playing before guests arrive. That way early arrivals can enjoy the slides while late arrivals are still getting their food/drink.

Because I'm not running the Insteon software, my ramp rates are limited to what can be programmed in the actual switch (9 seconds max.) I'm still able to get fairly nice transitions when going from Welcome to Previews to Movies, but not quite as nice as some that are running 30-60 second transitions. I'm not sure it's worth upgrading to an ISY module just for that feature. If I was looking to bring Insteon into other parts of the house, I would certainly look at that option however.

I still need to program the remote to include macros like "Watch TV" and "Watch Movie" that turn on individual pieces of gear and change appropriate inputs. When I do that, I'll simply include the appropriate lighting scene as part of that macro. I'm thinking it would be cool (at least initially) to have the "pause" lighting scene linked to the pause command on the Blu-ray and DVR, but I could see that getting annoying as well.

The IRLinc receiver sort of makes my wall keypad redundant, but I plan on programming the Welcome scene into the keypad and also an All Off scene. The other keypad buttons will simply operate individual zones as more of a convenience switch to bring each one up as needed. I think I'll just use the keypad when entering and exiting the room and use the remote for everything else.
Edited by Spaceman - 1/16/13 at 7:50am
post #1080 of 1224
That's exactly what I'm planning to use, expect I'm using Harmony remote. Was it hard to setup/program the scene using the IRLinc?
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