Spaceman Theater build - Page 37

Can't help you there.

After several hours of tweaking, I have the Insteon IRLinc up and running and programmed into a URC R40 universal remote.

Here is a link to the receiver and a pic.


My remote didn't contain the Insteon IR codes so I had to learn them from the credit card remote that came with the IRLinc. Right now, I have each of the following scenes programmed on a dedicated button within the universal remote's lighting menu:

1. Welcome: Screen cans 50%, Side cans 50%, Rear cans 50%, Black lights for stars on, step lights on
2. Previews: Screen cans off, Side cans 20%, Rear cans 30%, Black lights for stars on, step lights on
3. Movie: Screen cans off, Side cans off, Rear cans off, Black lights for stars off, step lights on
4. TV (Sports): Screen cans off, Side cans 10%, Rear cans 20%, Black lights for stars on, step lights on
5. Pause TV (Intermission): Screen cans off, Side cans 30%, Rear cans 30%, Black lights for stars on, step lights on
6. Pause Movie (Intermission): Screen cans off, Side cans 30%, Rear cans 30%, Black lights for stars off, step lights on

I'm sure these will be adjusted as I actually use them, but this seemed like a good starting point. To simplify things, I'm already thinking I might change my "Preview" scene to be my "Welcome" scene, so I can already have trivia slides playing before guests arrive. That way early arrivals can enjoy the slides while late arrivals are still getting their food/drink.

Because I'm not running the Insteon software, my ramp rates are limited to what can be programmed in the actual switch (9 seconds max.) I'm still able to get fairly nice transitions when going from Welcome to Previews to Movies, but not quite as nice as some that are running 30-60 second transitions. I'm not sure it's worth upgrading to an ISY module just for that feature. If I was looking to bring Insteon into other parts of the house, I would certainly look at that option however.

I still need to program the remote to include macros like "Watch TV" and "Watch Movie" that turn on individual pieces of gear and change appropriate inputs. When I do that, I'll simply include the appropriate lighting scene as part of that macro. I'm thinking it would be cool (at least initially) to have the "pause" lighting scene linked to the pause command on the Blu-ray and DVR, but I could see that getting annoying as well.

The IRLinc receiver sort of makes my wall keypad redundant, but I plan on programming the Welcome scene into the keypad and also an All Off scene. The other keypad buttons will simply operate individual zones as more of a convenience switch to bring each one up as needed. I think I'll just use the keypad when entering and exiting the room and use the remote for everything else.
Edited by Spaceman - 1/16/13 at 7:50am

Not too bad. Very similar to programming the keypad. I recommend printing the manual so you have that to reference. It took a few tries to get the first one to work, but after that, it's just repeating the same steps over and over. The most time consuming part was creating, labeling, and learning the new buttons on the universal remote. I'm really happy with it. I think my bottom line to implement the Insteon system was $380 (for 2 dimmers, 2 switches, a dimming outlet, the 8-button keypad and a discounted IRLinc courtesy of jautor). I'll probably end up getting the custom-etched keypad buttons someday which will bring me to an even $400.

I'm going to need an IR repeater kit soon and have been looking at the Xantech kits (or their individual components which would allow me to get a 6 unit connector block vs. the 4 unit block that comes in the kit). Are there other manufacturers that I should be looking at as well? I've seen Xantech sold through Smarthome, Parts Express and Amazon, but prices are all over the place. Is there a go to source? Anyone with experience using the Monoprice IR kits?

EDIT: I also see that Smarthome sells their own brand of IR repeaters. Has anyone used these before?
Edited by Spaceman - 1/18/13 at 8:33pm

Total loss. The ABS actuator assembly, 4 ABS lines, & wiring harness were $5k just for the parts. Entire estimate for all repairs came to $9,300. He said the truck is worth a little more than that but he was afraid once they actually got in there and started poking around, they would find more. If Toyota doesn't step up, my insurance said they will cover it, minus my deductible. Unfortunately, it could be in limbo for a while while the two of them schedule the necessary inspections and determine the exact cause. Since Toyota hasn't accepted blame, they won't cover a rental. And since I don't have rental coverage, my insurance won't put me in a temporary set of wheels either. So, my wife and I are trying our best to get by with 1 car while things get sorted out.

My insurance company probably loves me. We had just started a policy with them 11 days before the incident. They have been great so far and hopefully will take care of us after all the inspections are done. Until then, I'm trying not to worry about it too much. I would have preferred to put off car shopping for at least another 5 years, but I guess I need to start researching.

On the theater front, I've purchased all of the materials for the mini-riser and hope to have that assembled in the next day or two. I had to go to 4 different HDs to find one that had the black indoor/outdoor carpet I needed. It's pretty dark so it should just disappear underneath the footprint of the seats. I should also have enough materials to finish the last 13 fabric panels. Getting close. Hope to have most of it wrapped up by the Superbowl.

I was able to finish the 3" mini riser that will sit under my back seats. After taking the 12-3/4" main riser into account, the back seats will now sit almost 16" above the main floor. I would not have had enough head room under the soffits if I had built a 16" high main riser, so I needed to keep that at 12-3/4" and raise just the seats an extra 3" to get to the correct height.

I found a nice black outdoor carpet at HD.
http://www.homedepot.com/Flooring-Carpet-Carpet-Tile-Outdoor-Carpet/Beaulieu/h_d1/N-5yc1vZboilZ47x/R-100656078/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.UP4GX_JhDE4

The riser itself is made from 2 layers of 3/4" osb on top of a 2x4 frame. The 2x4's are laid flat, not on edge, to give me an overall height of 3". The osb extends 1-1/2" past the frame on all sides. If my measurements are correct, the platform should be just large enough for the frame of the seats, but should not extend out from under the seats.


I cut the carpet 12" longer and wider than the actual platform to give me an extra 6" all the way around. With the carpet laid face down on the floor, I placed both layers of osb on top of the carpet and screwed the 2 layers together with 1-1/4" screws.



I was originally going to add the frame to the bottom of the osb before pulling the carpet over the lip, but it was much easier to pull the carpet tight without any framing in the way. I stapled the carpet to the bottom of the osb and then secured the frame to the osb with 2" screws. The perimeter of the frame sits right on top of the carpet that was pulled over the lip.





This sucker is heavy!! I'm guessing 150lbs. To apply the carpet to the exposed edge of the frame, I cut (2) 4" wide strips of carpet. They each run around the front and back of the frame and form a seam in the middle of each side. I tipped the platform on it's side and stapled each 4" strip to the edge of the frame, just under the lip.





Once the carpet was secured to the edge of the frame, I laid the platform back down and wrapped the 4" strip over and stapled it to the bottom of the framing.




Once the framing was completely wrapped, I flipped the platform right side up.






I need to finish one last fabric panel on the back wall before putting the seats on the platform.

I realized about half way through assembly that I probably could have just unscrewed the factory feet and replaced them with taller bun feet to achieve a similar boost.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=bun%20feet&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All
Has anyone tried this before? It would cost about the same for a row of 4 seats, but it would be much easier to do.
Edited by Spaceman - 1/22/13 at 7:56am

No, raising the main riser would have left me with insufficient headroom under the soffits. The mini riser was the only way to get additional height on the back row.

The bottom of the screen is about 32-1/4" above the floor.

The keypad is basically a dimmer with 8 buttons on it. It can be wired directly to one of your 3 dimming zones (eliminating the need for a stand-alone dimmer). The keypad will then communicate with your other 2 dimmers and the 2 non-dimming switches by sending a signal over your in-home wiring.

If you can terminate the wiring for one of the dimming zones at your keypad location, you could return one of the stand-alone dimmers for a refund (or use it somewhere else in the house).

Crossed a few things off the list over the last day or two. I finally finished the fabric panel that sits behind the sub and rear seats. Once I got that in, I was able to fine tune the location of the mini riser and get the seats back up there.


Shot of sub behind back row



Rear seats in upright position (with tray tables secure and seat belts fastened)



Rear seats reclined



Seats on mini riser





The final configuration is a 7'-8" deep riser with the rear headrests 7" away from the back wall when fully reclined. My feet overhang the foot rests, so I probably have a few inches of clearance between my feet and a fully-reclined front row headrest. And this is with the front row pulled 3" away from the riser lip.




I know the 6-1/2' min. riser depth is tossed around a lot, but I don't think I'd consider anything less than 7' deep.

I also completed the fabric panel that sits over the column by the door. It hides 2 dimmers and 2 switches and holds the lone keypad that controls the entire room.

Inside of column



Finished column

I had to dim the led lights on the hidden switches and dimmers because they showed through the fabric on the column. The buttons on the brown keypad are opaque, so while they aren't distracting, they can be hard to locate.


Closeup of keypad



I also finished the last of the velvet panels on the screen wall.



So that's 93 panels down...7 to go.

If I was to do the screen wall over again, I would eliminate or relocate the seam in the panels above the screen. I went with two panels with a seam in the middle, but the seam falls right under the center can, so it's pretty visible when the screen lights are on. Looks fine when the screen cans are off, but it bugs me.
Edited by Spaceman - 1/25/13 at 3:25pm

Do they look familiar?

Thanks, Vanice. I probably could have made one long panel, but it would have been about 10-1/2' long. I think I just assumed the seam would disappear but I forgot about the light.

Make sure you come in appropriate attire.


It's too much work to fix given the short amount of time you actually see it. Maybe I'll get to it once everything else is done and I'm looking for things to do. For now, I just wanted to throw it out there so others could plan accordingly.

I'm pretty happy with it. I plan on getting a video calibration done later this year and will most likely get an audio calibration done at the same time. This will include an evaluation of my treatments. I still haven't run Audyssey but plan to soon. I know I could benefit from dialing in the bass.

Thanks, Fred.
Edited by Spaceman - 1/26/13 at 7:08am