Spaceman Theater build - Page 38

That's a good find. It looks slim enough to fit in my narrow light tray too. Using the 2 footers is still a little more economical, since they only run about $11ea. I've been stockpiling the 2 footers when I find myself wandering around Walmart. I currently have 6 that I need to put up in the ceiling. That will leave me needing only 6 more to have full coverage on all 4 sides of each coffer. I was originally pretty happy with just having the lights around the perimeter of the ceiling, but it looks much better with even distribution on all 4 sides of each coffer.

I thought about doing that when I was building the boxes to hold mine, but wimped out. Maybe a future tweak.

It was certainly far enough along to enjoy the game. Today was the first day we watched something besides a movie in the theater. It was a big hit with our guests. Everyone loved the big game on the big screen. Even managed to get a few games of darts in during the power outage.

I did load the JVC's commands onto my URC R40 remote, but they aren't quite set up the way I want them to be. I need to spend some time cleaning them up, so for now, I've been using the JVC remote for on/off. I do use the URC remote to navigate through the JVCs on screen menus however.

Can't you setup a macro that includes 2 presses of the standby button with a slight pause in between?

Are you looking to do a fiber optic ceiling like in your photo or a glow-in-the-dark ceiling like in my room? If you want glow-in-the-dark, you'll need to incorporate some type of light tray/hidden shelf in your framing to hide the black lights.

If you like this particular look (fiber optic), I would consider doing the "window-lattice" right up against the surface of the fiber optic panels instead of suspended below. That way, you can use the lattice to hide the seams in your panels. My preference would be to use a thicker framework so they look more like individual skylights.

The stained wood/timber look is pretty cool.

If I remember correctly, I laid a large piece of osb on the top level and made sure it was large enough to stick out past the face of the lower step by approximately 6" (so 6" wider than the stage at it's widest point, including the step). I then laid on my back on the floor and traced the edge of the upper level onto the bottom of the osb. I pulled the osb off the stage and added a new line 1-1/2" away from the one I just traced to create the overhang for the lip. This new line became my cut line for the top piece.

The waste from the above cut becomes the decking for the lower step. If you were to cut the top layer in place, the decking for the step would essentially fall right down onto the step. It's not an exact fit, but it's close enough. With the 6 extra inches I left on the initial piece, the decking was still wide enough to repeat the step of laying on my back and tracing the profile of the lower step on to the backside of the osb. I added the same 1-1/2" to create the lip for the lower step and cut off the rest.

It's been a while, but I think that's what I did. I created a seam in the middle of the stage, so it actually took 4 pieces to cover the top and 4 additional pieces to cover the step (2 layers of 3/4").

Since your top layer is already on, you might need to cut a few smaller pieces to cover your step. You would need to lay each piece down on top of the step and scribe along the curved portion of the upper layer to get a tight fit along the back side of the step. Once the back side is cut, you can slide it tight against the curve and reach under and trace the front edge of the step on to the bottom of the decking. Just make sure to account for your lip before you cut off the excess.
Edited by Spaceman - 2/15/13 at 12:48pm

Thanks, Bigham. You're space looks great too. Nice, comfy layout. Your ceiling is very similar to my old one.

Hi Eric,

My seats are Berkline 13175s. I'm happy with them and only have a few complaints. 1) They aren't very firm, so there isn't a lot of lower back support when reclined. 2) the recline mechanism doesn't seem to go high enough for my liking. I'd like my feet to rest a little higher. Besides that, I haven't had any problems. Berkline isn't around anymore, but I think that same chair is now being sold as the Lane 'Grand Slam' model 175.

I am so happy I decided to go with a 2.35:1 screen. Since the room has been "done", I would say 70% of what we've watched has been scope. That number would be even higher if I didn't count the Sopranos marathon I had a few weeks ago. The 16:9 image on a 115" wide scope screen is plenty big from our viewing distances, especially the front row (9 1/2'). I was concerned 16:9 might seem too small, but I'm very happy with it. Going from one ratio to the other using the JVC's lens memory feature is a piece of cake.

We are enjoying the theater so much that I don't think I'll ever make it through the rest of my theater to-do list. The fact that the door still has a temporary osb threshold and no door stops doesn't seem to bother me anymore.

I'm pretty sure that's the 1st theater I've seen that has a Death Proof poster hanging next to Breakfast at Tiffany's.

I have 3 lighting scenes saved that I operate from the URC remote.
"Welcome"-side, rear and screen cans at 40%, step lights and star ceiling black lights on
"Previews"-side and rear cans dim to 20%, screen cans off, step lights and star ceiling black lights on
"Movie"-step lights on, everything else off

I also use the "previews" setting when watching sports.

So I began my morning by dragging the dvr up to the theater so I can watch the Syracuse game tonight. The last time I had the dvr in there was for the Superbowl and I did not have any problems at that time. Now, I have a random flicker in the projected image that occurs every 10-15 seconds.

My setup (and the one that worked fine during the Superbowl) has HDMI running from the dvr to the receiver and then HDMI running out of the receiver to the projector. This is the setup that now produces a flicker. To get around it, I am pulling HDMI out of the dvr and going directly to the projector for video and for audio I'm using analog audio cables from the dvr to the receiver. This eliminated the flicker but I haven't diagnosed the problem.

I've swapped HDMI cables in case one went bad and that doesn't appear to be the problem. Since video is fine when bypassing the receiver, it doesn't appear to be an issue with the dvr. I've tried running video through the other source inputs in case something is buggy with the SAT/CBL input, but still experienced a flicker.

Any idea what might be wrong? The dvr is different than the one I used during the Superbowl, but I don't think that's the issue since the problem appears to be when I run HDMI through the receiver. However, that's the only piece of the puzzle that is different since it ran successfully a few months ago. I haven't tried running component video from the dvr to the receiver yet.