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Spaceman Theater build - Page 29

post #841 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

2. Can't remember if you have baseboards up, but if you do, expect them to get thrashed. I expected this, and have quite a bit of touch up to do.

My base will be stained and sealed wood, perhaps a covering of carboard might be in order when I get that far, good advice.
post #842 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I hear your wife wants a new subwoofer and an ISCO III anamorphic lens for Christmas as well! biggrin.gif
She is getting a popcorn maker and a lifetime supply of 1 1/4 oz. popcorn boxes. She's a popcorn fanatic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

The room looks great! I am sure this has lifted your spirits a bit that the project is starting to truly come to a close.
I'm about ready to wrap it up. I really don't mind working on it, but I really want to start enjoying it. The rest of the family is REALLY ready for me to wrap it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Has your projector box been talking to you? biggrin.gif:D
It has. I felt so bad I had to crack it open last week. I behaved myself and didn't plug it in, but I did set it on the table and figured out exactly how the mount goes together. I also wanted to get an exact measurement from the top of the ceiling plate to the center of the lens, so I could confirm whether I built my screen wall correctly. Unfortunately, I may need to raise my cross bar on my false wall.

I know this has been explained to me before, but I'd like one last confirmation before I modify the false wall. If I'm using lens memory on the JVC RS45 to go between 16:9 and 2.35:1 (on a 2.35 screen), my understanding is the center of the lens cannot be higher than the top of the screen. I was recently discussing this issue in one of the JVC threads and was told I could mount the lens higher because of vertical lens shift. Does the lens memory function control both zoom and vertical lens shift, allowing the lens to sit above the top of the screen or is it critical that the lens be at or below top of screen? I did not find much in the owner's manual about this topic.
Edited by Spaceman - 12/12/12 at 9:45am
post #843 of 1224
Carpet looks great Spaceman!! That's the same combo I'm considering. Can't wait to get to that stage.
post #844 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I know this has been explained to me before, but I'd like one last confirmation before I modify the false wall. If I'm using lens memory on the JVC RS45 to go between 16:9 and 2.35:1 (on a 2.35 screen), my understanding is the center of the lens cannot be higher than the top of the screen. I was recently discussing this issue in one of the JVC threads and was told I could mount the lens higher because of vertical lens shift. Does the lens memory function control both zoom and vertical lens shift, allowing the lens to sit above the top of the screen or is it critical that the lens be at or below top of screen? I did not find much in the owner's manual about this topic.

I would like to know this as well since I have the RS45 too. I hope to construct my screen this weekend so knowing it in advance would be very helpful.
post #845 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

1. Give them some kind of threshold to work against at the door, even if it's temporary.
2. Can't remember if you have baseboards up, but if you do, expect them to get thrashed. I expected this, and have quite a bit of touch up to do.
3. They weren't as careful about staple placement on the face of each riser on the stage. They put a row along the floor and instead of putting a row just under the lip, they kind of just threw some in half way up the face of the riser. I'll probably be the only one that sees them, but it's something you might want to look for/discuss beforehand.
4. Check carefully around the base of your columns or any other areas that require cutting. Mine look great except for one spot that was miscut. They had to put a small scrap in the gap. I didn't notice it during my initial inspection, but found it later. It's too small to worry about but you should definitely check areas like that in case your guys do something similar.
5. Once I checked their rolls to make sure I was getting what I paid for and made sure they understood where everything needed to go, I pretty much left them alone. My invoice made it very clear where everything needed to go, so I figured if they screwed it up, they would have to fix it.
I'm very happy with how it came out. Hope yours goes as well. I know you must be excited. It's almost as big a step as completing drywall (as far as transforming the room).

Thanks for the tips. I don't have baseboards yet but I'm a little worried that they won't get the tack strips right without them. I do have two columns in and will definitely try to protect them so they don't snag the fabric. Do you know if they tacked or glued around your bass trap cutouts?
post #846 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I included that for aaustin, although I guess I should really move it to the pet pic thread.smile.gif

Haha! Thanks Spaceman! It's always good to see the "other" members of the family enjoying the theater room. biggrin.gif

Keep up the good work! It won't be long now.
post #847 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Do you know if they tacked or glued around your bass trap cutouts?

Tacked. They were careful to tack close to the edge of each cutout so everything would sit under the lip of each vent, hidden from view.
post #848 of 1224
Room's looking great! I really like how the carpet turned out. Since your wife is a popcorn fanatic, she'll also want a small sweeper for the theater to pick up the crumbs. I've got one of the Shark units, I need to put an outlet in the nearby closet so it's always charged up. As it is, well, there's usually some crumbs around... biggrin.gif
post #849 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Room's looking great! I really like how the carpet turned out. Since your wife is a popcorn fanatic, she'll also want a small sweeper for the theater to pick up the crumbs. I've got one of the Shark units, I need to put an outlet in the nearby closet so it's always charged up. As it is, well, there's usually some crumbs around... biggrin.gif

We will definitely need one of those. This carpet will not be very good at hiding popcorn crumbs.
post #850 of 1224
Looks great! And I love the wall & carpet color too! smile.gif

p.s. what fiber/color is your wall panel?
post #851 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by landshark1 View Post

Looks great! And I love the wall & carpet color too! smile.gif
p.s. what fiber/color is your wall panel?

Thanks, Landshark. Congrats on the pj delivery.

The dark fabric on the wall is Guilford of Maine FR701 Chocolate. The lighter brown is Acoustex Fabric #60 Cocoa. While not an exact match, the short stripes in the carpet match the Acoustex Cocoa pretty well.
post #852 of 1224
How does that remote differ to say a Harmony One remote?
post #853 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Chaves View Post

How does that remote differ to say a Harmony One remote?

I didn't really research the Harmony One because of the quality control issues I was reading about with the Logitech remotes in general. I've used URC remotes in the past and they are built like tanks. Besides the build quality, I think the URC R40 can control more components and has more flexibility in programming, although it isn't PC-based, so may not be as user friendly as the One.
post #854 of 1224
My wife got one of the Sharks mentioned above, and loves it! Better then her older Dyson, great XMas gift!

When I was looking at PJs, I was told the JVC could be placed above the screen because it has up to 25% lens shift capability. But not exactly sure on the zoom part. Maybe Mike from AVS can answer that one for you.
post #855 of 1224
Man that room looks great. It seems like even though i painted my ceiling black I still have light that spreads up on it. Did u fabric your ceiling by the screen?
post #856 of 1224
Looking good! I'm looking forward to hearing how the zoom/shift of the projector works, as well as your thoughts on how the AT screen looks at your seating distances.
post #857 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

Man that room looks great. It seems like even though i painted my ceiling black I still have light that spreads up on it. Did u fabric your ceiling by the screen?
I didn't and that's one area I'm a little concerned about. I went with a flat enamel which has a little more sheen than straight flat and I'm expecting to get some reflections on the bottom of the front soffit. I may end up wrapping an 1/8" piece of masonite and sticking it up there. I figure with something that thin, I could easily adjust the 3 can lights that are up there. That will be a future project however.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xjagox View Post

Looking good! I'm looking forward to hearing how the zoom/shift of the projector works, as well as your thoughts on how the AT screen looks at your seating distances.
Thanks. I'm looking forward to getting a definitive answer as well. It would be nice if I didn't have to raise my upper and lower cross bars on my screen wall. Looks like I would need a 5" adjustment to put the screen at lend height.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

When I was looking at PJs, I was told the JVC could be placed above the screen because it has up to 25% lens shift capability. But not exactly sure on the zoom part. Maybe Mike from AVS can answer that one for you.
That's a great idea. I'm going to email him right now (and come up with some lame excuse as to why I purchased my pj 6-1/2 months ago and am just now getting around to hanging it).
post #858 of 1224
Looks great! It seems like the last part of your project has just flown by. I wish I could work that fast.
post #859 of 1224
Room looks great! And the cat matches the overall color and texture, a nice touch.
post #860 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Looks great! It seems like the last part of your project has just flown by. I wish I could work that fast.

Being unemployed has its perks.wink.gif
post #861 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Well, I guess I should have done a little more reading in the JVC thread regarding lens memory before shooting an email off to Mike Garrett. I suspect his response tomorrow will be similar to the one he posted in the JVC thread back in July.

I wanted to know where the lens needed to fall (relative to screen height) in order to use lens memory to go back and forth between 2.35 to 16:9. Some had said the lens needed to be no higher than the top of the screen. Others said that the lens could be higher because vertical lens shift was part of the lens memory feature. Here is Mike's response from July.

The Panny works by shifting the image on the chip. It does not have the ability to use lens shift for 2.35. What this means, the projector lens of the Panny has to be mounted between the top and bottom of the 2.35 image. The RS45 does not have this limitation. The RS45 uses true lens shift, power zoom and power focus for it's memory. With the 30% lens shift, the lens of the RS45 can be mounted anywhere from 30% of image height above the image all the way down to 30% below the image height.

This makes me one happy camper as I don't need to perform surgery on my screen wall or the fabric frames that I've already assembled to go around the screen. If I get additional info from Mike tomorrow, I'll pass it along.
post #862 of 1224
Love the carpet. Everything is looking great!
post #863 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by andymo View Post

Love the carpet. Everything is looking great!

Thanks, Andy.

I am knocking off a bunch of little items today. Installed the outlets and plates on the face of the riser. Painted and installed the step lights. Installed the supply registers and return grille. The return grille is flaking badly so I'm going to have to repaint that. Must not have sanded it well enough.

I'm also installing the rest of my 4" can light trim, including the adjustable eyeballs over the screen. I got a little ahead of myself and threw the first one up without attaching the socket to the top of the eyeball. I left the socket attached to the adjustable bracket, which just won't work. mad.gif The eyeball trim fits really snug too so I had to really wrestle with it to get it back out of the housing. After attaching the socket to the top of the eyeball and reinstalling the trim and bulb, I was surprised that the R20 bulb stuck out as far as it did. Don't I want a bulb that will sit inside the eyeball? What have you guys been using in your eyeball trim? They must have R20 or PAR20 bulbs with shorter necks than the ones I currently have.


post #864 of 1224
I think you want a par20. The r20's are a little more bulbous (pun intended). They usually stick out of the cans a bit so the beam spread is wider. The par20 is going to give you a defined beam, which is probably what you want.

Tim
post #865 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Perfect. Thanks.
post #866 of 1224
I have the 6 inch Par and R (I guess) either way I have the rounded and spot bulbs in my basement as well as a couple CFL spirals. The PAR is like an outdoor spot light, very focused, the R is more diffuse and is what I'm going with. I just adjusted the inner housing up so they didn't protrude out of the cans (small wingnut that does the height adjustment). My CFL's are very diffuse but I don't care for the warm up period.
post #867 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

I have the 6 inch Par and R (I guess) either way I have the rounded and spot bulbs in my basement as well as a couple CFL spirals. The PAR is like an outdoor spot light, very focused, the R is more diffuse and is what I'm going with. I just adjusted the inner housing up so they didn't protrude out of the cans (small wingnut that does the height adjustment). My CFL's are very diffuse but I don't care for the warm up period.

The wingnut works to adjust the height in the cans with standard trim, but for those with eyeball trim, you need to take the socket off that adjustable arm and clip it to the top of the eyeball (so when the eyeball swings, the bulb/socket swings too). At least that is how mine work. The problem is that by taking the socket off the adjustable arm and putting it on top of the eyeball, the depth inside the can is greatly reduced, causing my R20s to stick out more than they normally would. I'll see if I can find a shorter bulb tonight.
post #868 of 1224
OK that makes sense, mine are the basic, straight cans.
post #869 of 1224
Don't forget that halogen 50PAR20's are not being made any more. So stock up if that's what you choose. They produce about 2800k light and there aren't any LEDs that bright and that warm in color that I have found. Well, there is one that HD carries that's close, but it is a 180 degree spread bulb. Not focused at all. If that works for you they are decent alternatives to 50PAR20's. The Other LED's will destroy your colors. That bluish light doesn't play nice with beige and browns.
post #870 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

Don't forget that halogen 50PAR20's are not being made any more. So stock up if that's what you choose. They produce about 2800k light and there aren't any LEDs that bright and that warm in color that I have found. Well, there is one that HD carries that's close, but it is a 180 degree spread bulb. Not focused at all. If that works for you they are decent alternatives to 50PAR20's. The Other LED's will destroy your colors. That bluish light doesn't play nice with beige and browns.

Very good to know. Space has first hand experience with lighting issues.
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