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Spaceman Theater build - Page 34

post #991 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post

I was amazed when I saw your spreadsheet, I was thinking how did you get this so detailed before even starting.. Then I realized it was a list that you made as you went smile.gif I am sure it will help many people realize just how much it will cost. And makes me realize how many more years I have to wait frown.gif

Remember you don't have to do it all at once. If your space is out of the way and you can deal with it being unfinished for an undetermined amount of time, go for it. The most time consuming part for me was the actual design. Once you have that done, you can proceed at your own pace. I think you'll be surprised how much work you can actually get done on the room if you put off your major av equipment purchases until the end. Can't say I followed this advice, but it's what I would recommend. smile.gif Good luck.
post #992 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Thanks, Larry. Spreadsheets are great at keeping my OCD in check. Dollars and cents aside, it actually became very interesting to see just how much "stuff" goes into one of these rooms. I thought it would be useful for someone just starting their planning/budgeting to see every single item. It will either get them excited or send them crying to their mommy. smile.gif

We have a lot of similiarities I see biggrin.gif
post #993 of 1224
When's the grand opening? smile.gif
post #994 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Hopefully the early part of 2013. We have had family over and had some friends over on New Years Eve, but no official grand opening yet. Need to tie up a few loose ends still.
post #995 of 1224
Looking forward to visiting. Your theater is beautiful.
post #996 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Thanks, Jim. Hope to have you and other Houston AVS members over when I no longer have light switches hanging out of columns and panels missing from the walls. If you're lucky, I might even put some hardware on the entry door so light doesn't spill through the door knob hole. wink.gif


You let me know when you have that Houston event and I'd be pumped to come check out all your work. I've learned a ton reading through your thread.

Randy
post #997 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Randy. I'll be sure to send you an invite.

Have any owners of Berkline 13175s found a nice cup holder adapter to accommodate drinks larger than a soda can? Most of the ones I've found are meant for your car and are pretty fuggly. I'm thinking a nice, sturdy drink tumbler with a narrow base might be a more attractive option, but haven't found any that I like. The stainless steel thermos/mug style is readily available but not really what I want for the theater.. The Tervis tumblers would work but their base is too large. Looking to see what others have come up with.
post #998 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Thanks, Randy. I'll be sure to send you an invite.
Have any owners of Berkline 13175s found a nice cup holder adapter to accommodate drinks larger than a soda can? Most of the ones I've found are meant for your car and are pretty fuggly. I'm thinking a nice, sturdy drink tumbler with a narrow base might be a more attractive option, but haven't found any that I like. The stainless steel thermos/mug style is readily available but not really what I want for the theater.. The Tervis tumblers would work but their base is too large. Looking to see what others have come up with.

post #999 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Thanks, Randy. I'll be sure to send you an invite.
Have any owners of Berkline 13175s found a nice cup holder adapter to accommodate drinks larger than a soda can? Most of the ones I've found are meant for your car and are pretty fuggly. I'm thinking a nice, sturdy drink tumbler with a narrow base might be a more attractive option, but haven't found any that I like. The stainless steel thermos/mug style is readily available but not really what I want for the theater.. The Tervis tumblers would work but their base is too large. Looking to see what others have come up with.

I've used the standard pint beer glass in mine and my wife's selection of tupperware glasses work as well.

post #1000 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by farkem View Post


Someone posted a cup over on the D-Box thread in the $20k + section.
post #1001 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

EDIT: added build summary and thread index to 1st post

Before & After:

Existing Floor Plan



Proposed Floor Plan (orientation rotated clockwise 90 degrees from existing floor plan).  Click on to open larger image.




Proposed Ceiling Plan




Screen Wall


1000



Back Wall (was originally going to be the screen wall)



1000



Left Wall





Star Ceiling (Night Sky Murals)



Room Summary
2nd floor build to replace builder-grade media room.  Scope of work included:
-removal of existing wetbar, carpet, & drywall
-removal of all existing electrical wiring, including outlets, switches and fixtures
-temporary removal of all ceiling & exterior wall insulation
-adding a new dedicated 20A circuit
-upgrading existing 15A circuit to 20A and rewiring entire room (new outlets, switches, dimmers and fixtures)
-installing conduit to equipment closet, projector, speakers, riser and stage
-adding new wall to create media closet
-adding perimeter soffit and coffered ceiling
-relocating entry door
-creating arched opening to new media closet
-adding 3 additional hvac supplies and 1 return
-adding insulation to interior walls and reinstalling insulation in ceiling and exterior walls
-new drywall
-adding stage, riser and false wall
-adding acoustic treatments to front, side and rear walls
-building 4 decorative columns, including 1 to hide equipment rack
-installing 7.1 speaker system
-hiding acoustic treatments/speakers behind custom-made fabric panels
-installation of baseboards, wall trim & light trays
-painting soffit and ceiling
-painted star mural
-installing new carpet
-installing new door
-installing screen, projector, & related av equipment

Dimensions (after drywall, before installing treatments/panels)
Width: 12’-7”
Length: 19’-2”
Height: 7’-9” to bottom of perimeter soffit, 9’ to bottom of coffers, 10’ to top of coffers

Finished dimensions (after installing treatments/panels)
Width: 12’-4”
Length (back wall to front wall): 18’-7”
Length (back wall to screen): 17’-10”
Height: same

Color Scheme
Dark brown wall fabric: Guilford of Maine FR701-Chocolate
Light brown wall fabric: Acoustex Designer Series-#60 Cocoa
Black fabric on screen wall: SyFabrics Plush Triple Velvet-Black
Trim & Door: Behr Premium Plus Interior Eggshell-Mouse Ears Black
Ceiling: Behr Premium Plus Interior Flat Enamel-equivalent to SW Jute Brown
Light tray: Behr Premium Plus Interior Flat Enamel-Bitter Chocolate
Soffit: Behr Premium Plus Interior Flat Enamel-Mouse Ears Black
Carpet: Main floor/riser: Masland, Style:Quadrate I, Color:Times Square  Stage: Masland, Style: Signet, Color: Black

AV Equipment Summary
Projector: JVC RS45
Projector Mount: Chief 5" Designer Ceiling Plate #CMA-101, 3" Fixed extension column #CMS-003, RPA281 mount and SLB281 bracket
Screen: 115”wide 2.35:1 SeymourAV frame w/CenterStage XD screen fabric
LCR Speakers: (3) Atlantic Technology 727 In-wall
Side surround speakers: (2) Triad In-wall Bronze
Rear surround speakers: (2) Triad In-wall Bronze
Subwoofer: (1) Hsu Research VTF-2 MK3
Receiver: Denon 4311CI
Blu-Ray player: Panasonic DMP-BD655
CD-Changer: Technics SL-PD888
Power Console: Belkin PureAV AP21100-12 (PF31)
Remote: URC R40
Lighting Control: Insteon

Soundproofing: None

Acoustic Treatment Summary
Front wall: (2) 17”x17”x24” corner bass traps cut from 2" Knauf insulation board (3 pcf), 1 layer of 3.5 mil poly sheeting sandwiched between (2) 1” layers of JM Linacoustic (floor to ceiling between bass traps)

Side walls: 1” JM Linacoustic inside fabric panels, floor to ceiling from screen to 1st row, floor to ear-height from first row to back wall

Back wall: (2) 2” layers of 3pcf insulation board. First layer against wall consists of Knauf insulation boards.  2nd layer facing room consists of Certainteed CertaPro boards with FSK facing.  1 of the back corners includes (1) 17”x17”x24” corner bass trap cut from 2" Knauf insulation board (3 pcf).

Riser as bass trap: 2x12 perimeter frame with 2x8 joists, fully insulated with (7) 4x10 vents along back wall

Cost Breakdown: 
Project was all DIY, with the exception of adding a dedicated breaker, adding 3 additional HVAC supplies and 1 return, hanging and finishing drywall and installing carpet.

Room Improvements: $13,370.34
AV Equipment: $9,667.05
Seating: $3,124.93
Tools & Supplies: $1,267.81
Project Total: $27,430.13 (as of 1/1/13)

For a complete line item breakdown, refer to the attachments below.

Excel Spreadsheet:
Home Theater Expenses.xls 91k .xls file


PDF Version:

Home Theater Expenses.pdf 22k .pdf file



Build Timeline & Index:
Phase 1: Research & Design - 2 Years
12/3/09 - 12/1/11

Phase 2: Demolition/HVAC modifications - 2 months of actual work spread over 2 years
1/2/10 – 2/7/10 – begin demo (wetbar, walls)
2/18/10 - hvac modifications
2/19/10 – 12/1/11 – project on hold
12/1/11 – 12/31/11 – complete demo (ceiling, electrical, doors)

Phase 3: Construction - 1 Year +/-
1/1/12 - 2/10/12 - framing: walls & coffered ceiling, soffits & ceiling, curved soffit at screen
1/28/12 – revised floor plan and preliminary elevations
2/10/12 – 2/29/12 – electrical, including low voltage conduit
3/1/12 – 3/30/12 – insulation
4/1/12 – 4/12/12 – drywall
4/11/12 – revised plan to include 2.35:1 screen
4/16/12 – 4/26/12 – riser
4/27/12 – 5/1/12 – stage
5/11/12 – 5/21/12 – corner bass traps - 1, 2
5/24/12 – front wall acoustic treatments
5/27/12 – front wall speaker boxes
5/29/12 – 6/21/12 – revise fabric panel design, fabric & carpet research (round 1)
6/24/12 – 7/2/12 – rear wall acoustic treatments, surround speaker boxes
7/3/12 – 7/13/12 – coffered ceiling trim/light trays, more light trays, more light trays, completed light trays
7/16/12 – columns
7/17/12 – 7/30/12 – furring strips for fabric panels
7/30/12 – 8/15/12 – fabric & carpet research (round 2)
8/17/12 – 9/10/12 – begin fabric frames
9/5/12 – final selection of fabric & carpet
9/9/12 – 9/12/12 – false wall
9/12/12 – 10/2/12 – more fabric frames
10/3/12 – fabric panel color schemes
10/7/12 – 10/18/12 – painting of soffit and fabric frames
10/10/12 – lighting control
10/18/12 - ceiling paint
10/19/12 – fabric dispenser
10/23/12 – 11/4/12 – adding fabric to frames, more fabric, more fabric
10/26/12 –bulb selection for soffits
11/5/12 - 11/11/12 – door threshold/hardware research
11/11/12 - 11/12/12 – repaint ceiling, paint door
11/13/12 – 11/15/12 – carpet bids
11/19/12 – paint ceiling & floor registers & return grill
11/30/12 – star ceiling
12/11/12 – carpet install
12/17/12 – mount projector & screen
12/19/12 – temporary rack


Original 1st Post:








Well...I officially broke ground on my theater last weekend, if laying plywood in the attic counts. I also ripped down some drywall to see what was lurking behind a wall I want to remove. Before I get too much further with demo, I'd like to get the rest of my plan on paper. In order to do that, I need some constructive criticism. I'm attaching a plan of the existing room as well as a plan showing some options I have in mind. Because my room is not very deep, I am having to place the 2nd row fairly close to the back wall, so I have some concerns with acoustics. I'm also not sure where to locate the rear speakers since the 2nd row is so far back. I'm also fairly close to the screen in one option and I'd like to hear from those of you who are sitting at 9' or less to hear how large your screens are. I have a few questions/comments included on the attachments, so any feedback would be appreciated.


I'm looking forward to many more posts as I plan to document my build as it moves along. Hopefully some more demo this weekend.

Very Nice to see the before and after photos and the detail you list in the build and the cost structure. Great Info for all who want to start this endeavor. biggrin.gif
post #1002 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Hopefully when you come visit with your camera, we can come up with some better "after" photos.
post #1003 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Hopefully when you come visit with your camera, we can come up with some better "after" photos.

Sounds good! wink.gif
post #1004 of 1224
Thread Starter 
HVAC question:

The 4 supplies in my room are working great and seem to provide a sufficient amount of air to adequately cool the space. The airflow is low enough where it cannot be heard blowing through the supply vents. The problem is with my return. Due to space constraints in the rear soffit, I only have a single 12" return connected to a 12"x12 return grille. Like the supplies, it does it's job but a little too well. When I insert the filter into the grille with the fan running, it literally sucks the filter out of my hands. It's quiet enough when the filter is clean and the grille is not installed, but once I install the grille or the filter gets just a little bit dirty, there's a pretty loud whistle. What is the best way to address this? Is the flex duct undersized? I believe it's 12" dia.

The grille I have is identical to this one. http://www.amazon.com/Filter-Grille-Return-Grill-Cover/dp/B005R372BA. Are there models with a more open louver pattern that would not restrict air flow as much? Are dampers ever installed on return lines to reduce the amount of draw?

As additional background, the HVAC guys originally installed this return on the opposite side of the room (further away from the air handler), before I had the final layout of the room figured out. When I relocated it to the rear soffit, closer to the air handler, I didn't bother reducing the length of their flex duct run. I simply have lots of slack up in the attic. I probably have 25'-35' of flex duct between the air handler and the return when in fact I probably only need 15'. Not sure if this matters. Any ideas?
Edited by Spaceman - 1/4/13 at 8:29pm
post #1005 of 1224
I'm no HVAC pro, by any means, but I think the solution is to add a second return. They can join in the attic into the same 12" flex, but you need more diffusor area in the room to keep the velocity down. Of course, you could throttle some of the flow back with a damper somewhere, but then you lose air exchanges. If it's the louvers on the grill that make the noise, you could look into a slot diffusor. If it's the filter itself, maybe it could be reconfigured to be installed closer to the air handler, so that if (when) it whistles, you can't hear it in the theater.

Are there other returns outside the theater area? As a test, open the theater door and see if air flows out the door and into other returns, keeping the velocity at your theater return down.
post #1006 of 1224
Sorry I can't help with the return. The guys who did mine put a big return in the room outside the theater and everything seems to be running great.
post #1007 of 1224
Can you get to that flex in the attic without too much trouble? Perhaps installing an in-line filter in the attic, moving it out of the room. The noise is very likely from the filter itself. You could also try one of the more expensive filters that may both work better and allow more airflow (I think they talk about that...). Actually, try that first, since it's very little work, and you probably have to go to Home Depot tomorrow anyway. biggrin.gif
post #1008 of 1224
It might be a little late in the game, but would it be possible to increase the size of the opening? The same amount of air over a larger area, will reduce the velocity. Also, you could look at something completely different like a Nailor diffuser.

Edit: Why do you have a filter in your return?
post #1009 of 1224
HVAC can be tricky. I'd recommend a pro look at your airflow. A 12" duct may be enough but long runs of flex are generally bad. They increase pressure drop substantially. If you can straighten it out (almost stretched straight) that will help. More bends the worse it is flow-wise.

As for air filters, a 12x12 on a 12" duct isn't big enough. That filter will cause so much friction loss in the air path your HVAC won't work right at all. The duct size may be OK, but if it is correctly sized then you need a MUCH bigger filter. IMO. You also need to be careful what kind of filter you get. Higher MERV numbers will be even more restrictive.
post #1010 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

... and you probably have to go to Home Depot tomorrow anyway. biggrin.gif
How did you know. wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

It might be a little late in the game, but would it be possible to increase the size of the opening? The same amount of air over a larger area, will reduce the velocity. Also, you could look at something completely different like a Nailor diffuser.
Edit: Why do you have a filter in your return?
Not easily. The soffit isn't very deep and I have a can light pretty close to the existing return. I'll post some pics of the area so everyone can see what I'm dealing with.

All the returns in the house have filters in them. I don't have a single filter at the air handler. As Jautor suggested, maybe an in-line filter is a better solution for this particular return.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

HVAC can be tricky. I'd recommend a pro look at your airflow. A 12" duct may be enough but long runs of flex are generally bad. They increase pressure drop substantially. If you can straighten it out (almost stretched straight) that will help. More bends the worse it is flow-wise.
As for air filters, a 12x12 on a 12" duct isn't big enough. That filter will cause so much friction loss in the air path your HVAC won't work right at all. The duct size may be OK, but if it is correctly sized then you need a MUCH bigger filter. IMO. You also need to be careful what kind of filter you get. Higher MERV numbers will be even more restrictive.
Well, a pro is the one that installed the 12" grille on the 12" duct, so maybe I need a different pro. rolleyes.gif When you say that long runs reduce pressure drop, do you mean reduce the amount of draw? This thing pulls plenty of air. If I was to get rid of the slack in the duct and make a straighter line to the air handler, wouldn't the flow increase, thus get louder? I'm going to head up there this morning to take some pics and also experiment with a few things. I'll report back with my findings. Thanks for all of the suggestions so far.
Edited by Spaceman - 1/5/13 at 7:22am
post #1011 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

[
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

HVAC can be tricky. I'd recommend a pro look at your airflow. A 12" duct may be enough but long runs of flex are generally bad. They increase pressure drop substantially. If you can straighten it out (almost stretched straight) that will help. More bends the worse it is flow-wise.
As for air filters, a 12x12 on a 12" duct isn't big enough. That filter will cause so much friction loss in the air path your HVAC won't work right at all. The duct size may be OK, but if it is correctly sized then you need a MUCH bigger filter. IMO. You also need to be careful what kind of filter you get. Higher MERV numbers will be even more restrictive.
Well, a pro is the one that installed the 12" grille on the 12" duct, so maybe I need a different pro. rolleyes.gif When you say that long runs reduce pressure drop, do you mean reduce the amount of draw? This thing pulls plenty of air. If I was to get rid of the slack in the duct and make a straighter line to the air handler, wouldn't the flow increase, thus get louder? I'm going to head up there this morning to take some pics and also experiment with a few things. I'll report back with my findings. Thanks for all of the suggestions so far.

Yes, you may. I said it "increses" pressure drop. Your air handler can only push so much pressure. Typically very low pressure stuff. Each length of pipe in the airpath "loses" a certain amount of that pressure (or creates back pressure if you like). Too much and you don't get any airflow. Flex is the worst. Well, next to air filters which are complete restrictors. Now the HVAC guy could have sized the 12x12 grill for the expected airflow in the room (I don't know what his design called for in airflow cfm). And over sized the return air duct (12"), which if fine if that's the case. If your air filters are about to bust out from the airflow and making sound, then they are too small, our the room's dampers arent' adjusted to limit the airflow to the cfm he designed the air filter for. The sound comes from the air velocity increase where air is trying to fit the same volume through smaller holes that are left in the filter. With registers for example, you (should) design for 250fpm or less. If it's whistiling, it's too small. In my experience the HVAC field is one of the worst ones for "pros" being 2 men in a truck doing off the cuff designs from rules of thumb, and sizing ducting systems with "Ducolator" slide wheels, when a proper engineer, a Manual J and Manual D study/calculation should have been employed. HTH, Scott
post #1012 of 1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

HVAC question:
The 4 supplies in my room are working great and seem to provide a sufficient amount of air to adequately cool the space. The airflow is low enough where it cannot be heard blowing through the supply vents. The problem is with my return. Due to space constraints in the rear soffit, I only have a single 12" return connected to a 12"x12 return grille. Like the supplies, it does it's job but a little too well. When I insert the filter into the grille with the fan running, it literally sucks the filter out of my hands. It's quiet enough when the filter is clean and the grille is not installed, but once I install the grille or the filter gets just a little bit dirty, there's a pretty loud whistle. What is the best way to address this? Is the flex duct undersized? I believe it's 12" dia.
The grille I have is identical to this one. http://www.amazon.com/Filter-Grille-Return-Grill-Cover/dp/B005R372BA. Are there models with a more open louver pattern that would not restrict air flow as much? Are dampers ever installed on return lines to reduce the amount of draw?
As additional background, the HVAC guys originally installed this return on the opposite side of the room (further away from the air handler), before I had the final layout of the room figured out. When I relocated it to the rear soffit, closer to the air handler, I didn't bother reducing the length of their flex duct run. I simply have lots of slack up in the attic. I probably have 25'-35' of flex duct between the air handler and the return when in fact I probably only need 15'. Not sure if this matters. Any ideas?

Spaceman,

Your duct length is ok. A longer run with curves will help reduce airflow noise. I believe your return size is ok. I also have a single 12x12 return with 12" duct in my theater with the same grill. However, I use these http://www.amazon.com/12x12x1-Disposable-Air-Filter-Pack/dp/B004ZKMTUK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1357407750&sr=8-5&keywords=glasfloss+12x12x1 fiberglass air filters. They do not restrict the airflow at all, but filter out plenty of airborne dust. The other Z type merv rated air filters will restrict the airflow and create a lot of suction and noise. I started using the regular old style fiberglass filters in my whole house after I built my theater and my HVAC guy recommended them for the theater. Overall, the air system in my whole house is now silent and I haven't noticed any increase in dust.
post #1013 of 1224
Thread Starter 
OK, so here's a little more background on my situation.

Rear soffit, with 12x12 return grille in upper left corner with a 10" dia. (not 12" as previously thought) flex duct running 30-35' back to the air handler. Ideally, I would have put a 2nd return in the upper right corner, but the roof framing runs through the soffit at that location making it impossible to fit anything there. I might be able to fit something on the face of the soffit, but would prefer not to if at all possible. (Please ignore the chipping paint on the return grille. I need to repaint it.)












I'm 95% certain that calcs were not involved in sizing the return. He pretty much told me what he thought would work in our initial meeting, and unless he performed calculations after he left, I'm sure this was guesstimated based on past experience (or lack thereof).

Here are the specs for the air handler.


And a shot showing the two return lines attached to this unit. The return coming into the end of the unit is a 10' long, 16" return coming from the large open space on the 2nd floor. The 2nd entering the top of the unit is the 30-35' long, 10" return coming from the theater. Based on the specs above, it looks like my run from the theater is pushing the max. allowed run.


Here is the return grille serving the rest of the 2nd floor. The filter is a 20x25 and the duct is 16" dia.






And the filter I'm currently using in both returns.


While taking the photos, I discovered that the filter in the main 2nd floor return was very dirty. I removed the filter and went back into the theater to see if I could hear a difference in that return. No more whistle! I was still able to detect a faint noise from the air handler, and a slight noise of air being pulled through the filter but the whistle was gone. After putting a clean filter in the main return, I went back to the theater and still no whistle. Both filters still have a slight bow inwards due to the suction, so I'm guessing they are undersized based on GetGray's comments. I really don't want to rip my soffit apart to try and fit a larger return so the first thing I'm going to do is switch to a less restrictive filter to see if I can reduce the noise a little further.
post #1014 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

In my experience the HVAC field is one of the worst ones for "pros" being 2 men in a truck doing off the cuff designs from rules of thumb, and sizing ducting systems with "Ducolator" slide wheels, when a proper engineer, a Manual J and Manual D study/calculation should have been employed. HTH, Scott

I think I saw my guy stick his finger in the wind. If that's part of the Manual D study/calculation, then I should be all set.

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedoflight View Post

Spaceman,
Your duct length is ok. A longer run with curves will help reduce airflow noise. I believe your return size is ok. I also have a single 12x12 return with 12" duct in my theater with the same grill. However, I use these http://www.amazon.com/12x12x1-Disposable-Air-Filter-Pack/dp/B004ZKMTUK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1357407750&sr=8-5&keywords=glasfloss+12x12x1 fiberglass air filters. They do not restrict the airflow at all, but filter out plenty of airborne dust. The other Z type merv rated air filters will restrict the airflow and create a lot of suction and noise. I started using the regular old style fiberglass filters in my whole house after I built my theater and my HVAC guy recommended them for the theater. Overall, the air system in my whole house is now silent and I haven't noticed any increase in dust.

I think a switch to the cheaper filters will help. The ones I have are quite restrictive.

Thanks for the input, guys.
Edited by Spaceman - 1/5/13 at 1:03pm
post #1015 of 1224
Nice detective work. I love it when the simple solutions are the best ones.
post #1016 of 1224
Not sure what calculations my guys did but they certainly took dimensions of both rooms and what seems to be the correct size.

I'm sure it was easy for them because the the basement is about he same size as the first floor and they were the contractors the builder used for my house and 23 similar houses in my development
post #1017 of 1224
Spaceman,

What are the dimensions of your riser steps? Also, how are those LED lights working out? I'm thinking of picking up the same.
post #1018 of 1224
Thread Starter 
These are pre-carpet dimensions.

The riser is 12-3/4" high (2x12 with 2 layers of 3/4" osb), so the step is 1/2 that (6-3/8" high). For the framing of each step, I ripped a 2x6 to 4-7/8" and topped it with 2 layers of 3/4" osb. The 4-7/8" high framing that supports the tread is 15" deep x 25-1/2" wide. The tread sticks out 1-1/2" on the front side and on the side next to the front seat, so overall tread size is 16-1/2" deep x 27" wide. I will lose 1"of the 27" width when I place the fabric panel around the step.

Here are some pics after carpet install. Note that I did not have much wiggle room to fit the step light plates. Once carpet was in, I wound up with 1/2" clearance on the bottom of the plate and 3/4" above the plate. This is the one I used, but I don't have it wired up yet. Hopefully today. I've heard from others that they are quite dim. I'll post pics as soon as I get them running.









post #1019 of 1224
Man, I really love that carpet! Every time I see it I think "I gotta have that!" Glad to hear you got your return issue figured out. Hopefully the new filters will do the trick.
post #1020 of 1224
Thread Starter 
Thanks, GWCR. After changing the dirty filter in the adjacent game room and switching to less restrictive filters, I have something I can live with. You can still hear the faint rumble of the air handler and some air moving through the filter, but mostly from the seat that is directly under the return. Not ideal, but I don't sit there so I'm not up to ripping apart the soffit. Add it to the list of "What I'd do differently next time". wink.gif
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