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Calibration issues

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
I have an HTPC connected through HDMI to a Samsung B350.

I have some problems calibrating. I'm doing it with no calibration equipment at all.

1. When I try to set the contrast, setting it to 100 (max) on the display doesn't affect the clipping values, only the white intensity.

2. Backlight. What's the recommended backlight? I watch TV in a dark room with a bias light behind the TV.

My question/problem is: when setting contrast & backlight, when the white intensity starts to hurt my eyes; what should I lower? Backlight or contrast?

3. Gamma. Recommended gamma is 1.8 or 2.2?

Thanks in advance
post #2 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polcius View Post

1. When I try to set the contrast, setting it to 100 (max) on the display doesn't affect the clipping values, only the white intensity.

LCD often can be driven to the highest contrast setting without clipping. In this case, you'll have to calibrate the greyscale first and then set contrast to the highest setting you can achieve without running out of R, G, or B. However, without equipment or a reference (D65 light source/greyscale cards) this will be very difficult.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Polcius View Post

2. Backlight. What's the recommended backlight? I watch TV in a dark room with a bias light behind the TV.

In your case I'd set the backlight as low as possible while still hitting your desired light output. Again, with equipment 30-35ftL should be plenty for a dark room, however you'll have to balance black levels (lower backlighting is better) with light output by eye to your personal tastes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Polcius View Post

My question/problem is: when setting contrast & backlight, when the white intensity starts to hurt my eyes; what should I lower? Backlight or contrast?

I'd lower backlight first - as I stated above, raising the backlighting too much will strain your eyes in a dark room and have detrimental effects on your black levels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Polcius View Post

3. Gamma. Recommended gamma is 1.8 or 2.2?

Aim for 2.2.
post #3 of 23
Thread Starter 
Ok, thanks.

In a nutshell, you recommend that I set the contrast as high as possible and the backlight as low as possible.

About the equipment; what type of gear would you recommend for a calibrating novice like me?

Thanks again for answering
post #4 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polcius View Post

Ok, thanks.

In a nutshell, you recommend that I set the contrast as high as possible and the backlight as low as possible.

About the equipment; what type of gear would you recommend for a calibrating novice like me?

Thanks again for answering

Depends on how much you're willing to blow on hardware.

Unless you are going to spend thousands of dollars, the generally agreed upon hardware from best to worst, with any value outliers thrown out is.
i1 Pro
Chroma 5
Spyder 3 - calman enhanced
i1 Display 2
Off the shelf spyder 3.
post #5 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polcius View Post

Ok, thanks.

In a nutshell, you recommend that I set the contrast as high as possible and the backlight as low as possible.

About the equipment; what type of gear would you recommend for a calibrating novice like me?

Thanks again for answering

In a nutshell, I'd agree with you on the backlight - on the contrast, "high as possible" can have a lot of meanings I'd say don't set it so high as to cause eye strain from excessive light output, and don't set it so high that it causes the greyscale to become so excessively cool that it washes out skin tones.

If you're interested in learning about calibration, I'd suggest an i1 colorimiter, HFCR (Windows and Mac versions are available), and the AVS HD 709 disc for HD or GetGray for SD. The i1 will run you about $125, HFCR and AVS HD 709 are free, and GetGray is $25. Other than that you just need a laptop and the willingness to learn the basics of display calibration. The Greyscale & Color Calibration for Dummies guide is a great place to start learning.
post #6 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

Depends on how much you're willing to blow on hardware.

Unless you are going to spend thousands of dollars, the generally agreed upon hardware from best to worst, with any value outliers thrown out is.
i1 Pro
Chroma 5
Spyder 3 - calman enhanced
i1 Display 2
Off the shelf spyder 3.

How come the DTP94 never makes this list?
post #7 of 23
Thread Starter 
I found a way to measure the light output with a camera.

30-35 fl is the recommended value?

I've read someplace that it's 17 fl.
post #8 of 23
Depends on the equipment and the viewing environment. For front projection in a dark room, 12-16fL, for flat panels 30-40ftL, or sometimes 50ftL in less controlled light conditions.
post #9 of 23
Thread Starter 
Is it "easy" to adjust contrast with a meter?

What's the difference between Sypder3 Elite, Pro and Xpress?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss?...yder+3&x=0&y=0


And what's different between the i1 gamma and the Spyder3?

Wich one should I get?

The price varies and to me they all look the same XD.

Thanks
post #10 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by glaufman View Post

How come the DTP94 never makes this list?

Because they are no longer manufactured.
post #11 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

Because they are no longer manufactured.

http://www.integrated-color.com/cedpro/dtp94.html
post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
post #13 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polcius View Post

What's the difference between the "i1 LT" and the "i1 2"?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/X-Rite-EODIS...3215506&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pantone-EODL...3215506&sr=8-2

IIRC, they are the same basic probe. The bundled software (and prices) are different.
post #14 of 23
Thread Starter 
Wich one should I get?

I have no experience at all calibrating with a meter
post #15 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polcius View Post

Wich one should I get?

I have no experience at all calibrating with a meter

IIRC the bundled software is for creating profiles for computers, so if you're not doing that, get the cheap one.
post #16 of 23
Quote:

NO new DTP-94’s

These are new old stock. The last DTP-94's these guys purchased was a few years ago when the DTP-94 was being discontinued. They purchased a large quantity of them at the time.

So what you are getting is a new DTP-94 that has been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years and who knows how much filter drift they have had.

Not that the DTP-94 is a bad meter quite the opposite it was one of the best tristim’s made. But one that has aging filters may not be the best.
post #17 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekjsmith View Post

NO new DTP-94's

Thanks for the clarification.
post #18 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekjsmith View Post

NO new DTP-94's

These are new old stock. The last DTP-94's these guys purchased was a few years ago when the DTP-94 was being discontinued. They purchased a large quantity of them at the time.

So what you are getting is a new DTP-94 that has been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years and who knows how much filter drift they have had.

Not that the DTP-94 is a bad meter quite the opposite it was one of the best tristim's made. But one that has aging filters may not be the best.

Their website states:

You may have heard that the XRite DTP-94 has been discontinued. Well, that is not exactly the entire story. They have discontinued retail sales of the DTP-94 but

continue to manufacture and sell to a few devoted customers like Integrated Color Corp. Who should I believe!?

Can anyone who bought one recently confirm its performance?

TIA
post #19 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoh00 View Post

Their website states:

You may have heard that the XRite DTP-94 has been discontinued. Well, that is not exactly the entire story. They have discontinued retail sales of the DTP-94 but

continue to manufacture and sell to a few devoted customers like Integrated Color Corp. Who should I believe!?

Can anyone who bought one recently confirm its performance?

TIA

Well I would believe X-Rite since I asked them last week where these guys are getting the DTP-94's. X-Rite went back a looked at the sales records and said they have not built any for two years and the last order shipped was over two years ago but it was a very large order.
post #20 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoh00 View Post

Can anyone who bought one recently confirm its performance?

The one I got in November compares very poorly to my C5 and the i1Pro I used for profiling. I've only checked on my plasma, the results were sufficiently discouraging that I didn't bother on the LCD.
post #21 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoh00 View Post

Their website states:

You may have heard that the XRite DTP-94 has been discontinued. Well, that is not exactly the entire story.


I want to add that despite my personal experience there are other opinions. Some of which are supported by data. These people seem to know what they're up to.
post #22 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

I want to add that despite my personal experience there are other opinions. Some of which are supported by data. These people seem to know what they're up to.

Thanks. Yes, I saw that earlier and that's how I got interested in dtp-94. That makes it sound like DTp-94 is a no-brainer choice for me. But in a situation like this, I like to see comments from multiple people to filter out potentially biased reviews. If you have additional links on dtp performance (especially on recently purchsed ones), I'd love to check them out. Thanks again.

BTW, the one you got is DTP-94B or DTP-94? That link talks about dtp-94b and I don't know if HCFR or other SW supports the 94B model. I don't know the difference either.
post #23 of 23
Thread Starter 
Ok, I bought an i1 and did it.

If anyone wants to check my first calibration: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17957252
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