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LG CF181D, New SXRD-projector from LG - Page 36

post #1051 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guardian1 View Post

Fight4yu:
Thanks for the quick reply! I am a bit confused by some of the terms you used, maybe you can clarify:

i1D2 profiled to ColorMunki Spectro - (This is the calibration tools you used? Not something attached to the projector correct?)

The gamma doesn't work? Are you referring to getting another unit and the old firmware didn't let you change the gamma or your calibration device? I bought my CF181D early on, but if I go to Advanced and choose Gamma (User), I can then select Adjustment (Low, Medium, High), also Level (0-8), IRE (Can't change), Red, Green, Blue, White Balance, Red/Green/Blue Contrast, R/G/B Brightness, then a bunch of color selections for color.

Duo - What's this? Your output device (like computer, PS3, Popcorn Hour, etc)? Your saying that you leave settings on the projector alone and make the adjustments on your external device called a DUO? Or is the DUO something you install onto the projector? If this is the case, then your correct, your settings would be nowhere near what I would want to set.

AutoIris I leave OFF, because I don't like the projector getting brighter/darker during movies, but maybe I can set it to manual and 16 so it will stay at that light level.. Good idea.

For the same reasons I turn off TrueMotion as my eyes can see the (insert correct word here) stutteryness of it like rainbow effect on DLP. As for Cinema Mode, I disable that as well, looks like a slideshow to me. Completely a personal preference on that setting I think, my eyes are too fast or something, I notice any change in the picture when other people don't. Drives me crazy..

**IF the above answers are mostly external devices, and the projector is still "stock", I wouldn't mind getting all of your settings (can add to your post above for others if they have the same needs in one place), and I will try them out and see how they look.

Thanks, I could always go back to stock but would really like to try out peoples settings that have spent a lot of time calibrating and/or paid a technician to professionally calibrate thier projector to see how it looks.

If you know of other people/sites that have shared their settings would be open to trying those, and I could maybe take some screenshots and post comparisons.

Brian.

i1D2 and ColorMunki Spectro are both meter that I used to measured the grayscale and color. You need those meters in order to do a "full" calibration. Going by DVE or S&M will get you close, but you can't trust your eyes in doing grayscale and color.. at least most of us cannot.

For the GAMMA, in the earliest FW, even you can go in and change the values, it does not change anything on the screen. Again, you need to have a meter to tell you if that pattern got changed, although if you turn it way OFF, you can see some pinkish or bluish effect.

DUO is a Video Processor, that do a lot of scaling/de-interlacing/color control. The latest DUO FW allow me to do 11 pt. grayscale and also LHS CMS. It takes the input of say the PS3, or my DISH receiver, and manipulate the signal level (so it outputs the correct RGB value) and then output to my projector.

Have you go over the "Grayscale for dummies"? I suggest you take a look at it if you are serious about doing a calibration. Other people setting usually does NOT work because of many variables involved...
post #1052 of 1266
Can anyone help me here.
I secretly bought this projector for my husband and am now trying to figure out the biggest screen possible that I can use. I am willing to have the screen custom made if need be.

The way I would setup our HT room, the front lense of this projector will be sitting 15 feet from the screen. The projector lense will sit 7 feet high.

Can anyone tell me the largest sizes screen I can have ?

My husband leaves on business in 2 weeks for 2 weeks so I am looking at getting everything finished between 2 and 4 weeks from now.

Thanks in advance for your help.
My timeframe is approximately 30 days to
post #1053 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaplante28 View Post

Can anyone help me here.
I secretly bought this projector for my husband and am now trying to figure out the biggest screen possible that I can use. I am willing to have the screen custom made if need be.

The way I would setup our HT room, the front lense of this projector will be sitting 15 feet from the screen. The projector lense will sit 7 feet high.

Can anyone tell me the largest sizes screen I can have ?

My husband leaves on business in 2 weeks for 2 weeks so I am looking at getting everything finished between 2 and 4 weeks from now.

Thanks in advance for your help.
My timeframe is approximately 30 days to

Wor. I wish you are my wife. HaHa.

Screen size is a difficult question to answer, as there is no "definite" yes and no. First, what's your viewing distance? That data alone will usually give you a ballpark figure.
Also, what aspect ratio you want to get? (1.78 or 2.35).

once you get the above answer, i think we can give you a better answer.

Now, also, I am a bit confused as to what you say by "biggest screen" possible... I assume you ask that question based on some "limitation", like screen brightness, viewing angle etc. Is that right?
post #1054 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaplante28 View Post

Can anyone help me here.
I secretly bought this projector for my husband and am now trying to figure out the biggest screen possible that I can use. I am willing to have the screen custom made if need be.

Hello! Welcome to AVS! Your are to be commended for taking an obviously careful step into getting a good match-up for your new PJ. Many "experienced" PJ enthusiasts all to often don't, so your going to continue to be a blessing for your Hub.

Quote:


The way I would setup our HT room, the front lense of this projector will be sitting 15 feet from the screen. The projector lense will sit 7 feet high.

Can anyone tell me the largest sizes screen I can have ?

Well, strictly speaking...using your stated Throw distance (PJ Lens-to-screen) distance, 144" diagonal would be the largest size I'd personally attempt. ( That's 12' diagonal from one corner to the opposite diagonal corner)

However, some other things must out of necessity be considered.

First....the height of the Wall your screen will be on. If one is to assume that by your stating that the PJ lens will be 7' high* that you have an 8' high ceiling, a 144" Screen is 70" tall. That leaves you with 26" space to divide between the top and bottom areas of remaining wall space. The CF131d is a real beamer....a veritable light cannon. If the top of the screen has to crowd the ceiling (...and it just might have to if it's really a biggun' ) then that ceiling would have to be of a very dark, non-reflective paint scheme....or masked off out to 5' from the wall / ceiling juncture with a non-reflective material so as to prevent the entire front area of the ceiling from lighting up like a giant light source whenever the image is showing a bright scene.

Second, how wide is the room adjacent to the Screen wall? Proximity of the side walls can be as much an issue regarding Screen size and light reflection as can be the Ceiling. A 144" Diagonal Screen is 126" wide

Thirdly, by stating your room is a "Theater Room" such requires that we/I know if you have more than one row of seating. If so, the screen size would have to be carefully matched with the height / angle of viewing of the rear row. If there is a rear row of seats, are they on a Riser Platform?

So you do have options to consider....but the larger you go, the more certain other contingencies must be taken under consideration. A well thought out Theater set-up need not be expensive nor difficult or time consuming to effect, but it must be done right from the first to avoid issues from piling up and spoiling what should be emphatically a stunning and incredible upgrade.

*If the PJ rest on a Shelf or is a "Through-the-wall" affair, then that might make a considerable difference. If not, there is also the "PJ Mount" to be chosen to consider as well.


Quote:


My husband leaves on business in 2 weeks for 2 weeks so I am looking at getting everything finished between 2 and 4 weeks from now.

Thanks in advance for your help.
My time frame is approximately 30 days to

It's doable.....but you will have to make your decisions rather promptly so your not finding yourself under the Gun. It should be a happy, pleasant experience that lies before you, not a Hair pullin', Nail bitin', misspent adventure.

Ya gotta know we won't let that happen! So provide the answers to the additional questions ASAP and let's get'ter dun!
post #1055 of 1266
There are also consideration on if you want a high-power screen, normal screen, AT screen, gray screen (MississippiMan favorite for this PJ ) electrical pulldown... All that ties in to your room configuration.

To give you an example, I use a white AT electric pulldown, and it is a 16:9 ratio at 115" diagonal. I sit at around 13 ft from the screen, and my PJ is about 15 ft behind mounted in the ceiling. My personal taste is that I would go for a 10 ft wide 2.35 screen if I can choose again
And if you are sitting at around 13-15 ft from the screen, what MMan suggested (16:9, 144" diagonal) is plenty big... I agree I won't go any bigger than that. Again, we need the viewing distance to calculate the viewing angle and that's the deciding factor in most cases.
post #1056 of 1266
Thank you for the response.

144" is great. I never thought though about how far the screen would be from the ceiling to the floor. Thanks for mentioning that. I have a 9' ceiling. I am no math specialist so can you tell me how tall a 12' diagonal screen is with a 126" width ? Mentioning how the tops close proximity to the ceiling will reflect light is a really good point.

The room is 14'6" wide and 18'6" deep.

The projector will sit on top of a 7' tall 24" deep armoir.

Thanks for mentioning the rear seat rise. I will figure out seating later and will rise the rear seats if needed.
post #1057 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaplante28 View Post

Thank you for the response.

144" is great. I never thought though about how far the screen would be from the ceiling to the floor. Thanks for mentioning that. I have a 9' ceiling. I am no math specialist so can you tell me how tall a 12' diagonal screen is with a 126" width ? Mentioning how the tops close proximity to the ceiling will reflect light is a really good point.

The room is 14'6" wide and 18'6" deep.

The projector will sit on top of a 7' tall 24" deep armoir.

Thanks for mentioning the rear seat rise. I will figure out seating later and will rise the rear seats if needed.

You still did not tell us what your viewing position is going to be, and also you did not tell us if you want 16:9 or 2.35:1 format. 10 ft wide 16:9 will be about 5.6ft ,and 2.35:1 format will be 4.2ft.
Depending on where you sit, 10ft wide screen can be just about right, too big or too small.
post #1058 of 1266
I;m sorry.
I said I would figure out the seating later. My first criteria is a larger display.

I am only going 16:9 which lets me view 2.35 content. Right.

If I were to have a custom screen made that is 135" diagonal would this projector be able to zoom in/out to fit a 135" screen at 15 or so feet away ?
post #1059 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaplante28 View Post

I;m sorry.
I said I would figure out the seating later. My first criteria is a larger display.

I am only going 16:9 which lets me view 2.35 content. Right.

If I were to have a custom screen made that is 135" diagonal would this projector be able to zoom in/out to fit a 135" screen at 15 or so feet away ?

np. However, A "large" screen is relative to seating position. You can't really have one without the other For example, in your case, if you sit at 12-13ft, the 10ft wide screen will look quite BIG. However, if you move your seating position to 15-16, then it becomes "smaller", and if you get to 18ft, it gets even smaller.

A 2.35 screen will let you view 16:9 content as well... you will have "black bars" on the side, compared to top/bottom. You might also want to notice that this projector does not have motorized zoom, meaning you have to manually change the zoom if you want to zoom out for the 2.35 screen. I also take that you are not going to get a A-lens since you did not mention it.

In terms of 15ft for a 135" diagonal 16:9 image, yes, the PJ will be able to handle that. You can check the manual to double check, but I am pretty sure as I have a 115" and I am about 15" away.. I can still zoom out a lot, so 135" should not be an issue.
post #1060 of 1266
So here is my final question ?

My major concern now is how big or small the zoom can make the image to accommodate the screen.

As I think about what screen size I will settle on during the course of the day, is it safe to say the zoom will work for any screen size if the front lense of the projector is from 15 to 16 feet as long as:

1. The screen is 16:9 in footprint or shape.
2. The screen is between 120" and 144" diagonal.

Is it safe to plan my screen size within these parameters ?
post #1061 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaplante28 View Post

So here is my final question ?

My major concern now is how big or small the zoom can make the image to accommodate the screen.

As I think about what screen size I will settle on during the course of the day, is it safe to say the zoom will work for any screen size if the front lense of the projector is from 15 to 16 feet as long as:

1. The screen is 16:9 in footprint or shape.
2. The screen is between 120" and 144" diagonal.

Is it safe to plan my screen size within these parameters ?

OK...since your Amoir is 24" deep, and undoubtedly sitting against the rear wall (18.6' from screen), the Lens will be at least 16.6' away

At your stated throw distance, the CF181d can produce an image ranging in size from 92" diagonal out to 167" diagonal. I'd say your not going to have any issues in that regard.

What needs to be seen is as to if the CF181d can shift the image far enough downward when placed in a normal position, and not inverted.

I'm believing it can, but I need to check just how far into the Lens shift parameters it will have to be. The LG doesn't have anywhere near as much available Lens Shift, so finding a way to invert it might be a prerequisite.
post #1062 of 1266
Wow, that is great analysis.

It's really not going to be 16'6" because I have a idea in mind that may prove tricky. You see, the screen would actually sit in front of 2 windows that are decent size of 42" wide and 6' tall. The windows have a 15" gap between them.

I have this idea that my screen would sit out 12" to 14" from the window making the distance to the projector 15' and 3/4/5/6".

This way there is access to the windows, to walk behind the screen, etc.

Finally, I had this idea that the PJ would sit on mounts that somehow allow me to remove the screen and move it to the side or something. Obviously this screen would be light weight and also sturdy.

Ideally the mounts would be such that once the screen is placed back into its holder it is precisely where it was before it was removed, for whatever reason.
post #1063 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaplante28 View Post

Wow, that is great analysis.

It's really not going to be 16'6" because I have a idea in mind that may prove tricky. You see, the screen would actually sit in front of 2 windows that are decent size of 42" wide and 6' tall. The windows have a 15" gap between them.

I have this idea that my screen would sit out 12" to 14" from the window making the distance to the projector 15' and 3/4/5/6".

This way there is access to the windows, to walk behind the screen, etc.

Hmmmm....I thought this was a Theater, not a Sun Room? Honestly, such a situation demands that you reverse the situation, place the Amoir between the Windows, (...if possible, or you must instead Ceiling Mount the PJ...) and place the Screen on the opposite wall. Usually, having even a rough floor plan sketch at this conjecture would avoid us/you from traipsing down a dead end path...and at this point there is a wall looming just up ahead. Read on.

Quote:


Finally, I had this idea that the PJ would sit on mounts that somehow allow me to remove the screen and move it to the side or something. Obviously this screen would be light weight and also sturdy.

Ideally the mounts would be such that once the screen is placed back into its holder it is precisely where it was before it was removed, for whatever reason.

My lady.....are you and your Hub Body builders? You had better be, or at least have "Popeye'esque" forearms because any 'portable' Fixed Screen of a DIY nature that is 120" diagonal or larger will not be "Lightweight" affair. Using 6 mm Sintra (...by far the best and only choice for up to 122" diagonal...) would require a Rear frame made in the least of 5/8" MDF Strips, and then there is the front Black Velvet wrapped MDF Frame. It would have to be a "hanging" affair, so you'd have to get up on two high stools to take it down...and once down...where will you set the gol-durn thing?

Even a Mfg. Fixed Screen will require a "Ceiling Hook" system and you can bet it will be susceptible to "swaying in the breeze"...and still be a logistical nightmare to move around. In reality, no "Fixed" Mfg screen is designed to be anything else but secured to a Wall with "L" brackets.

Ya gotta know I'm loath to have to be such a spoiler, but have some small degree of experience in such things tens to let me see all the "Red Flags" wavin' in the breeze. You don't have a great deal of time either to correct misconceptions...let alone mistakes once the installation gets underway, so a definitive and correctly designed plan just has to be determined as far in advance as possible.

No..sadly it's a very unworkable situation...and if it seems that you cannot change the configuration you've stated, a Motorized retractable screen is the only sensible option left.

Except that....., 120" + diagonal Retractable that also afford a perfectly flat surface are called "Tab Tensioned" Screens, and they do not come cheaply into the equation. Plus they require that 110 AC be run to the end of the Screen casing...and if the screen sits out from the wall as far as you want iit to, that means locating the electrical box out in a very exposed area. Then there is the large, long Screen casing just hanging there....

I just don't stop...do I?

Do some due consideration and see if you can adjust your room to fit the Theater ideal. If you have attic above the room, or a Carpeted floor, there would be no real obstacles to making this all work, and not be a huge compromise or a "Rube Golburg-like" affair.

Don't shoot the messenger.......
post #1064 of 1266
I did not want to place the screen on the long wall because the room is only 14' 6" wide which limits how large the picture can get.

Right ?

Also, I did not want a retractable screen however if I had one I would place the screen much closer to the window. Maybe.


UPDATE: I see what you mean. You mean by placing the armoire at the window instead.

Maybe this can be done. I will think about it.

Btw, I told my husband about the projector and he wants to take over getting everything setup. He will contact you himself okay. Goodbye.
post #1065 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaplante28 View Post

I did not want to place the screen on the long wall because the room is only 14' 6" wide which limits how large the picture can get.

Right ?

Also, I did not want a retractable screen however if I had one I would place the screen much closer to the window. Maybe.

Well, you just might have to consider those limitations, but consider this as well. A smaller screen that you sit closer to looks just as big as a bigger screen you sit further away from. The days when you simply HAD to sit at 2x the distance as relates to the Screen width are history. A PJ like the CF131d with it's ultra smooth image allows you to get up close and personal...almost to a 1-to-1 ratio.

In any case, the Retractable placed in front of the Windows seems the least "I can't do it the way I want to..." choice.
post #1066 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

As far as I know, it can only be done by the service technician... That is how I done mine, and I think a couple of other people in this forum does too.

Thank you for the reply. So how did you get that ball rolling? Could you tell me what you did and how it turned out? Did they come to the house or did you send it off. I did speak with someone at LG a couple weeks ago but he was very firm on what the projector did and didn't have or was capable of doing. I do have a red and green blob I notice on the screen one in the left top corner(green) and bottom middle (Red) also I guess what I'm seeing when pausing a black image or pluge image it's dark in the center like a wide section going from top right to bottom left of the projected image with the other corners being lighter. Is this maybe the irus function? Maybe I should look again and make the adjustments at the same time. This is where I also see the green in the top left corner. Now mind you I see these problem not guest viewers or the viewer when setting up the big 16x9' screen. I did try the menu recommend several pages back using the menu button on both the remote and the projector at the same time.(Takeing a picture of the setting before beginning). Not much to adjust there but it was neat to finally adjust the red that was off by 1 on the vertical lines across the whole image. so have access to that made a nice difference. Other problems mentioned above did not change though.

Thanks for keeping this forum going,
Chris
post #1067 of 1266
I "chat" (not calling them, as it takes forever) them online, and told them my problems, and they told me to send it back. So, yes, you have to ship it and send it back yourself, although they provide you with the shipping label so you don't have to pay. It usually take about a week for them to send it back to me.

The IRIS does not (or should not) make your black image unevenly. The IRIS basically just control how much light is presented. Let's say you present a "black image" at IRIS32 (fully open), it might have a reading of say 0.01cdm2. Now, if you change the IRIS to say IRIS16, then the reading should be lower, and might be 0.005cdm2.. However, it should be even on the screen.
Now, what screen do you have? Do you have some HP screen that might have some hot-spots or something? Or, do you have some "reflections" that might make certain areas red or green? Those might be the information you will want to give to LG so they know if they should take a look at your PJ.
post #1068 of 1266
I use a 2.35:1 Seymour Center Stage XD 110" Screen
post #1069 of 1266
Well I have a situation and need some advice. I know Mississippiman is THE man when it comes to larger screens. I have currently a CF181 in installed with an ISCO III and my screen is 16' wide, 2.35AR. The gain is only 1.4 and us mini perfed. The image is viewable but I'd be lying if I said it was near bright enough. I am looking at replacing the screen with a new Harkness 220, 2.2 gain but this time not perfed. In your opinions, am I going to see a noticeably brighter image or am peeing in the wind? My little brain figured a 1.2 gain increase would make a big enough difference. Thanks
post #1070 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Young View Post

I use a 2.35:1 Seymour Center Stage XD 110" Screen

I had the same screen (different size and AR though ). It should be pretty natural... and when I projected the 1-pixel image on it, I do notice CA (RGB not aligned perfectly). You might have the same issue, and it is a matter of how serious it is. For me, it is more serious on the upper right corner, although I could detect that in a normal movie, only on some static black/white image. Well.. I got what I paid for

Quote:
Originally Posted by TSHA222 View Post

Well I have a situation and need some advice. I know Mississippiman is THE man when it comes to larger screens. I have currently a CF181 in installed with an ISCO III and my screen is 16' wide, 2.35AR. The gain is only 1.4 and us mini perfed. The image is viewable but I'd be lying if I said it was near bright enough. I am looking at replacing the screen with a new Harkness 220, 2.2 gain but this time not perfed. In your opinions, am I going to see a noticeably brighter image or am peeing in the wind? My little brain figured a 1.2 gain increase would make a big enough difference. Thanks

16' wide is HUGE Are you using the Dynamic (HIGH lamp)mode to achieve the brightness right now? Given you are using an ISCO III lens, I would assume you want your image to have good grayscale and calibrated to D65... There is no way that the Dynamic mode can achieve that with the brightness you need (at least 1000 lumens for the size of your screen).

Getting back to your question, compared a 2.2 gain to a 1.4 gain, the difference in gain is about 50%. You are going to notice difference, but you should expect the difference is closer to when you turn this PJ from "low to high' lamp mode, vs. increasing brightness from say 40 to 80...

IMHO, this PJ will have a very tough time handling 16' wide screen to produce a D65 calibrated picture.. especially as the lamp gets old, your image will be quite dim.
post #1071 of 1266
My original pj was a DPI Titan HD200 (1280 x 720, 1600 lumens out of the box). In theory, it should not have been bright enough but we were perfectly happy, ignorance being bliss and all that. I could always go withs higher gain, I guess. thanks for the reply.
post #1072 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by TSHA222 View Post

My original pj was a DPI Titan HD200 (1280 x 720, 1600 lumens out of the box). In theory, it should not have been bright enough but we were perfectly happy, ignorance being bliss and all that. I could always go withs higher gain, I guess. thanks for the reply.

I am not sure this will be an "upgrade" for you... even at 720p, it is an incredible machine... Good luck.
post #1073 of 1266
Not really an upgrade... The Titan is failing and repair costs really high. I'm looking at using my LG until I can find a bright, higher end pj to fit my room on a more permanent basis. I still think the Titan is the winner in a head to head against the LG but the LG us surprisingly no slouch. Granted the ISCO was more than the projector and I'm also using a lumagen scaler which is a little over the top. I may mask my screen down to about 14' wide until I get another pj equal to or better than the DPI Titan.

I know that Mississippiman did a custom screen for s client that was abut 16' wide and he was using a JVC ila with no complaints. Ill let you know how things turn out.
post #1074 of 1266
Yeah.....just 700 lumens. The screen "was" a S-I-L-V-E-R HG" though, estimated by several stalwart AVS Members who saw it in person as being a minimum of 2.5 gain and possibly 3+
I personally think that with the2.2 gain screen you mentioned, brightness will not be an issue. What might be lacking at that gain level is any improvement in the "Uber Black" department.

Ya know don'tcha that we could get you hooked up with a mid toned Gray with 2.0 gain that would do the CF131d both justice and a real favor....contrast-wise.
post #1075 of 1266
I'm trying to store the CF181 code into the DVDO edge remote.
I have tried all of the listed ones from the DVDO manual, to no avail.
Any ideas?
Thanks
post #1076 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Gleave View Post

I'm trying to store the CF181 code into the DVDO edge remote.
I have tried all of the listed ones from the DVDO manual, to no avail.
Any ideas?
Thanks

I use the Harmony One, so I have not try the DVDO remote.
post #1077 of 1266
Can an owner please help me out, I need to know how he light coming out of this projector is polarized, If it is completely linear polarized at a single angle it would be great for a dual projection system, if anyone is willing to help please pm me, it is a rather simple test to run
post #1078 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcguire525 View Post

Can an owner please help me out, I need to know how he light coming out of this projector is polarized, If it is completely linear polarized at a single angle it would be great for a dual projection system, if anyone is willing to help please pm me, it is a rather simple test to run

I have no idea, but I can't imagine it would be polarized.

BTW, what's the purpose of a dual projection system?
post #1079 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by trefork View Post

I have no idea, but I can't imagine it would be polarized.

BTW, what's the purpose of a dual projection system?

It will more than likely be polarized, for example nearly all LCD projectors are polarized linearly with red and blue at 90° and green at 45°, most JVC are linearly polarized all at the same angle...

With dual projectors you can have a polarized 3d setup, by using a projector that is already polarized it is simple to change the linear polarization to circular to work with movie theater glasses with very little light loss.

Here is a simple test that would really help out if someone would take a few minutes to try it... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post19273209
post #1080 of 1266
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcguire525 View Post

It will more than likely be polarized, for example nearly all LCD projectors are polarized linearly with red and blue at 90° and green at 45°, most JVC are linearly polarized all at the same angle...

With dual projectors you can have a polarized 3d setup, by using a projector that is already polarized it is simple to change the linear polarization to circular to work with movie theater glasses with very little light loss.

Here is a simple test that would really help out if someone would take a few minutes to try it... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post19273209

Fascinating, I had no idea.
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