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Optoma HD66 - First 3D home theatre/gaming projector - Page 6

post #151 of 1340
Quick notes on the glasses - I've got a pro350w, so I assume the same answers apply. First, I wouldn't expect an answer from Optoma. I've sent them 3-4 emails, all ignored. I called and sat on hold for 20+ minutes to get through to a support rep who didn't realize they had a 3d projector (much less two). She finally gave me an answer on what glasses they were compatible with:
"active shutters". No idea what brands were compatible, no idea what format or sync type, just that I needed "active shutters". Her supervisor knew nothing more than that either.

great. Thanks.

Anyway, so looking into it on my own I've been able to confirm that there is no signal output, and that it relies on DLP-Link to syncronize. The ONLY two glasses on the market right now with DLP-Link compatibility are real-d's $600/pr and xpand's x102 $150/pr. The x102's have been out of stock every time I've checked, and xpand has not responded to my emails asking when they'll be back.
I did get some response from Texas Instruments (which created the DLP Link standard and incorporates it into their DLP chips). They claim that while there are only two DLP link glasses vendors right now, they expect 3 more in 1st half of '10. One of those will be OEM only, but one of the two consumer-targeted will supposedly have a $50-$60/pr price range set of glasses.

Again, I assume this all applies equally to the hd66, but no guarantees.
post #152 of 1340
Originally Posted by reconlabtech View Post

When a PJ is sold out and there are very few reviews, comments, or horror stories that means things are going well. We AVS members are the only ones who don't just go watch our PJs and come back years later for info on a new one.

So I need more user reviews. Otherwise, I'm very close to pulling the trigger on the Epson HC720.
post #153 of 1340
Couple of questions:

1. Would this be a big leap up from my 5 yrd old Sanyo PLV-Z2 LCD native 720p projector?

2. My screen is currently 14" lower than my ceiling mounted Z2 (center of lens to top of viewable screen area), would I be able to ceiling mount this and achieve the offset needed to project onto my 120" screen? Note: Using the calculator on the HD65 I'd have a 11.5" offset which means potentially lowering my current mount by 2.5".

post #154 of 1340
I don't think anyone has confirmed whether using the HD65 calculator for this pj is accurate.
post #155 of 1340
Wow, i'm in the exact same position here. It's pretty much down to the Epson 720 for about 880 and an extra bulb or the HD66. Sometime in the next 3 weeks I'll be getting one of these.
post #156 of 1340
post #157 of 1340
Anybody got screenshots of this bad boy yet??
post #158 of 1340
so I've been waiting for this baby to hit the market as I have been having problems with my Sharp XR-32X since I purchased it 6 months ago.
problems? weak connection (internally) on RCA
Variable light shifts from one hour to the next while watching the same program.

anyhow...I wanted know if anyone know how the Optoma would compare?

Also, who a reputable online dealer would be as I've only purchase from local dealers in the past to make sure I didnt have warranty or return issues.

Thanks in advance.
post #159 of 1340
bestbuy.com, amazon, bhphoto, projectorpeople, and beachcamera should all treat you well
post #160 of 1340
Originally Posted by imjay View Post

Okay - but I'll stay a bit "dense" for one more go cause I'm not sure I got a complete answer (no offense) - maybe I just still don't understand.

I sat in a theater and my eyeballs watched a screen image. Parts of that image looked out of whack but when I put the glasses on it became "3D".

The 3D screen image content appears on the theater screen at the same time. I'm not talking about dual 60 cycle stereo projection that requires shutter glasses. So, if my eyeballs can see the entire image why not a capture device or camera?

The Theater showing Avatar in 3D used simple passive glasses with polarized lenses - not shutter type. Cheap things that we were allowed to tote out of the theater and I am sitting here looking at them.

So, back to my question.

If you can capture the 3D screen image on the theater screen and then play those captured full screen images via a legacy PJ and wall screen and you wear the glasses why won't you see the screen image exactly as your eyes saw it in the theater?

The two overlayed left/right images you saw on the screen when you took off your glasses during AVATAR were each using a different form of polarized light. Your eyes can see both counter and clockwise polarized light unaided so without the glasses you see both left/right image at the same time.

When you put on the glasses, the filters only let through the polarized light that's passing through the lens of your eyewear... one image for one eye, one image for the left. The whole method DEPENDS on the polarized light staying polarized from the projector to your eyeglasses. In fact, they have to use a special screen for Real3D in order to keep the light polarized when it bounces off the screen... a normal reflective screen would cause too much random light scatter which would allow too much cross-talk and the glasses wouldn't give you such a clean discrete effect.

Remember... we're talking about polarized light here in the case of AVATAR in 3D at your local cinema.

So, let's say you take out your digital camera and take a snap-shot of the raw image. You're camera gets both left/right images... but now the polarized light is lost. You've just got a digital picture. If you tried to play it back you'd just be seeing the overlayed images with no way to separate them anymore.

Does that make sense? Basically you lose the polarized directional light characteristics when you take a picture (or cam-corder movie) of what you see on the screen.

You have to create 3D "from the ground up" at home by delivering actual left/right images that then your 3D display can handle however it's designed to work... polarized or alternating left/right.
post #161 of 1340
Ok-I haven't thought about projectors in a long time after purchasing one of my greatest purchases- the Optoma H31. Well the time has come for this puppy to be laid to rest (10 minutes into the movie the screen becomes purple and then nothing- happens everytime now). My quest for its replacement led me back to AVS forum (where I incidently first learned about the h31) to where I see the HD66 might be suitable. However, before I make the leap, I am somewhat concerned about the 5 segment color wheel that can lead to the rainbow effect. Correct me if I'm wrong, but my H31 is a 6 segment color wheel- right? Why the less segments? Should l even be concerned about this (aka am I just overreacting). At one point I knew about this stuff- now I'm back to being a newbie!
post #162 of 1340
Hello all,

I've enjoyed reading this thread and would appreciate if someone could explain something to me. Some one earlier said that this projector had a native display of 1280X800. Would that make this a WXGA projector? Does the HD 65 have the same native resolution. My main question, is what does the projector do when displaying 720p. Does it scale the image down or just not use those extra pixels. My main concern would be with video games where I would want to avoid any scaling as to avoid lag. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

post #163 of 1340
Has anyone expierenced a light leak issue from the top front seem? the seal is thinner than the rest and you can see light. Mine is about 3 inches long.
post #164 of 1340
I have the same question. If you're watching sports in 720p what happens to the extra pixels due to the 16:10 setup? Can any owners please chime in?
post #165 of 1340
Any comparisons on this to the HD65 or HD20? I'll be ready to pull the trigger later this week on either 20/65/66 not quite sure which one to go for. I will say that my room is not light controlled during the day so having the extra brightness would definitely be a plus for afternoon sports etc.

I currently have a 120" diag screen viewed from about 11-12ft away.
post #166 of 1340
on 1280x800 wxga -- The pro350w can be set to either "vertically letterbox" 16x9 or stretch it (not sure why anyone would stretch). Between myself and my dad I've set up 2 other 1280x800 wxga projectors (ew1610 and in35w), and they've all done the same. In all cases, 1280x720, 768, or 800 all displayed without scaling or lag. That, combined with the larger 4x3 is why I *LOVE* 16x10 I'd be shocked if the hd66 didn't do the same.
post #167 of 1340
Got mine last Sunday. Thanks a lot everyone on this forum for valuable information on the device which made me pull the trigger. Ordered it from adorama which had $50 discount at that time plus $56 UPS delivery to Canada. Note for canadian customers - as this is NOT UPS ground delivery, but worldwide express, you will not pay any brokerage fee on delivery. No idea how warranty will work in my case, but found no restrictions like "service in the country where you bought it" in a warranty card. Just addresses of service centers in Canada and US.
I did not have much time to tweak and test it so far. Just as someone recommended lowered Brilliant Color to 2-3, set lamp to Normal from Bright, switched color profile to Video and set Color Temperature to Normal from Warm and played with degamma a little bit.
So far I watched it with Notebook via VGA cable, Canon HD video camera via HDMI and PS3 (games and MIB on BlueRay disc) via HDMI.
Settings out of the box indeed look a little bit oversaturated, especially faces, but minimal settings I listed above make picture look VERY good. Especially from BlueRay, as, unlike videocamera, this source is supposed to be carefully preprocessed for perfect viewing.
I've been professionaly working with digital imege processing since early 90s (even before photoshop came to PC), so I quite sensitive to correct color reproduction like skin tones etc. All I wanted as SOME scenes is to boost saturation a little bit. But, again, I made only rough tuning and watched it on light beige concrete wall, not some special screen. So I am still wandering what that amazon guy used as a source or did with the device to make it display terrible colors.
The image was good and bright, although I would not say it seemed too bright even in full darkness. I have old but bright NEC LT170 and intend to connect it in parallel (using VGA OUT of Optoma) and compare them side by side using PC as a source.
Rainbows - probably I am not in that 5% who sees it. I tried, but did not see anything neither with Optoma nor even with NEC which has 2 speed wheel.

Resolution and aspect ratio.
1) Device has menu where you choose 16:10, 16:9 or Auto. So when I connected PS3 or HD videocamera I saw absolutely no lighted spaces on top and bottom ( and you of course can see some glowing of "black" color on the screen even not in absolute darkness. So no problem with native 16:10 at all.
2) Wth default settings I had problems with "unused" space when I conneced PJ to PC as secondary display and stretched desktop to it. With 1600x1200 maximized windows media player appeared on screen with wide unused dark frame around. But I easily cured it by switching Display Format setting from Auto to Native. I also had to switch resolution to 1280x720 to get more appropriate aspect ratio.
I am yet to play with settings of the device, but so far I am very happy with the purchase. I will then try to set my DSLR on tripod and make some screen pictures, although it again will be on the light beige wall :-).
post #168 of 1340
Hi all, very informative feedback on this PJ... everyone understandably interested in PQ & 3d capabilities.

Can some of the owners comment on the more "run-of-the-mill" stuff, for example: Does it support discrete on/off? How many user presets can it store? Individual aspect ratios accessible from the remote, or just a toggle? Source lock? Auto timeout for no signal? etc., etc....

post #169 of 1340
Originally Posted by thebard View Post

Hi all, very informative feedback on this PJ... everyone understandably interested in PQ & 3d capabilities.

Can some of the owners comment on the more "run-of-the-mill" stuff, for example: Does it support discrete on/off? How many user presets can it store? Individual aspect ratios accessible from the remote, or just a toggle? Source lock? Auto timeout for no signal? etc., etc....


All I can tell for sure is that there are 2 user programmed profiles ( not 3 as I mistakenly indicated at first). As for the rest here is the link to HD66 web page on Optoma website:


There is downloadable User Manual PDF there which is the same as on CD which comes with the PJ (i guess - haven't check it yet). I beleive you find most if not all answers there.
post #170 of 1340
Thanks very much for the link!

Hmm... that remote looks relatively awful. Double functions for most buttons, but two completely unused on this model.

It seems aspect ratio can only be accessed from the menu, unless there is an undocumented discrete remote code. Also, typical Optoma 1x for on/2x for off Power toggle, again, unless discretes are undocumented.
post #171 of 1340
I am playing with screen size/format setting right now. Results are as follows.
1) Funny enough, but User Guide misses one setup setup entry in DISPLAY section of menu. In PJ I see:

FORMAT -> 4:3 (16:10 OR 16:9) LBX (letterbox) Native AUTO
SCREEN TYPE -> 16:10 16:9

Second entry in FORMAT depends of Screen type setting.

At the same time if FORMAT is set to AUTO, PJ determines screen type itself and changes format accordingly, i.e. lighted rectangle on the wall will be either 4:3, 16:10 or 16:9. No bars left/right or top/bottom.
[ UPDATE. Well, almost no bars. When I turned off all possible sources of light and came closer to the wall where I project the image, I noticed these bars on top and bottom which make the difference between 16:9 and 16:10 image. But they are almost not noticeable from the 10 feet distance and much darker than black background of the image from PS3. You have to look for it.]
The same if you try to use Overscan. Lighted area just becomes trimmed without any changes in actual image scale.

Now I have PS3 connected via HDMI with 1080p resolution set.
If I set FORMAT -> Auto, it does not matter which Screen ype I setup. Image will be correct 16:9.
If I set Screen Type 16:9, then lighted area in all settings except 4:3 will have identical physical dimensions. Image size and aspect ratio will be correct for Auto and 16:9 settings. I will see only part of image if I set Format to Native (because I feed 1080, not 720 from PS3) and will be distorted at LBX.
If I set 4:3, image (with lighted field) gets squeezed from sides with the same height. Picture is distorted also, of course.
Now if I set Screen Size to 16:10, then only correct setting for Format will be Auto and will be in fact 16:9. As soon as I set anything else, lighted rectangle grows up and down (to 16:10) with the same width and image becomes distorted (i.e. fit to window without keeping image proportions). 4:3 is the same story - initial biggest 16:10 squeezed from left and right.
BTW if you try to use ZOOM on the remote, and zoom in (+), then image becomes bigger within the same lighted area. But if you zoom out below "0" (-), the whole projected area decreases together with image as if you rotate physical ZOOM on the projector itself. Of course, physical zoom remains the same - all is done electronically. Again, if you will carefully look in the absolutely dark room you will notice "original" size of the native PJ image size as a frame around the image from the source (PS3, blueray etc), but I do not see any problem with it as I noticed it myself after 2houurs of watching photos and playing with settings.

Conclusion - if you totally lost in my descriptions, just leave FORMAT to AUTO and let PJ to determine correct settings based on the input. No worries about aspect ratio, distortions or blank lighted fields around.
If you plugin PC with VGA you may want to play with these 2 settings to get the result you want.

post #172 of 1340
I asked for one to test but we need softwares and the glasses. Soon I guess, should be great I'll buy one just for the entry into new 3D.
post #173 of 1340
I used the throw calculator for the HD65. Everything I read led me to believe it would be right- and it was. I wasnt too worried because where I mount it was so important to me as the proper screen size.

I have some light leak from around the front of the projector, but it doesnt bother me. If I look straight up I can see the lightleak and its like a rainbowtastic square on the roof. I suppose a piece of tape or something, maybe silicone it, would fix it, but its a nonissue with me.

Ive noticed that I can eat and see everything on my plate(picking out raviolis from others, or beans in chili individually) while watching the projector. I dont need to use my lights that I have on a dimmer. Thats pretty bright.
post #174 of 1340
So is this a good projector to have when dealing with ambient light? I don't have a light controlled room and therefore am interested in something that I could watch during the day. Right now I'm limited to night time only.
post #175 of 1340
Has anyone been able to confirm if the HDMI is 1.3 or 1.4 ? I would think it would be at the back of the manual or something. This is an extremely critical issue for anybody that wants to use a PS3 along with this projector for 3D Blu Ray movies, or 3D games. According to Don Mesa, Senior Product Marketing Manager for Sony Computer Entertainment America, the PS3 will require a display with HDMI 1.4 for the 3D to work with their planned firmware update in the summer (for 3D games), and the firmware update in the fall (for 3D Blu Ray movies).

This would be a deal breaker for me, cause I already have a PS3, and might as well get a projector that has hdmi 1.4 just to be on the safe side.
post #176 of 1340
Hello im from Argentina, 2 weeks ago buy this projector, the truth is very good here I leave some photos are taken with the factory defaults. Excuse my English, is translated with google. They are projected on the wall, today I bring you a brand screen Loch.

post #177 of 1340
can anyone confirm that the harmony universal remotes can work with the projector
post #178 of 1340
Thanks for the pictures diego looks very nice..

Daja- I had the HD65 and that worked with my Logitech remote.. I would think they would be same thing not too sure but I would be really suprise if it doesn't work..
post #179 of 1340
As far as cables go, is everyone running everything (cable box, PC, gaming, etc.) into a A/V reciever and then just an HDMI cable to the projector? I dont have a reviver and was wondering if I should factor this in to the price.

post #180 of 1340
Originally Posted by NumbaOneSUDZ View Post

As far as cables go, is everyone running everything (cable box, PC, gaming, etc.) into a A/V reciever and then just an HDMI cable to the projector? I dont have a reviver and was wondering if I should factor this in to the price.


I'm using a 4x1 hdmi switch...approx. $30 from Monoprice.
...My amp is old (no hdmi inputs)
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