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Optoma HD66 - First 3D home theatre/gaming projector - Page 9

post #241 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmarchini View Post


When I set the source at 1280X800 on my HTPC, everything works fine, but it is over the fram of course on the top and bottom. If I switch the screen size adjustor on the optoma to 16:9, it resizes it to 720p by scaling it. It works, but it makes everything a little pudgy AND it adds black bars when I watch TV on Media Center. It also introduces some scaling issues. Once again, this is something I would have expected.

When I set the source to 1280x720p, it reduces the image to about 1200x680 or so. It doesn't matter when I make it auto or native, it still keeps it in a "window".

The only solutions that I found was:

Set the digital zoom to about +4 which fill it back in, but it is really suffering from scaling issues.
Set the optical zoom to restretch it back to the correct size. This is creating a soft image.

Try to set screen to 16:10, Native and feed 1280x720 or what you have close to it. Native should not scale or distort picture but center or trim it (if feed is bigger than native PJ resolution). You should see image from left to right with dark bars on top or bottom. If you see bars on left and right - something wrong with the feed.
I ran into similiar problems with my notebook when I tried just to feed primary screen to it. But when I used secondary monitor (PJ) as an extension to my desktop everything worked just fine. The only problem was crappy colors from notebook graphics card via VGA in comparsion with PS3 HDMI feed (used exactly the same file for watching).
post #242 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlegMZ View Post

Try to set screen to 16:10, Native and feed 1280x720 or what you have close to it. Native should not scale or distort picture but center or trim it (if feed is bigger than native PJ resolution).

That is exactly what I did and exactly what I expected to happen when I bought it after reading through the online manual. I am hoping it is the overscan issue which I didn't think of at the time. I guess that I could also try putting the dvi into the other port on the card and see if that makes a difference. Another idea would be to perhaps use the other port. I may also break out the hd-a2 in the storage closet to test that as well as it can be set to 720p as an output. Maybe the laptop set to 720p would work as well. This may help me isolate the problem. for all I know, it could be a hardware issue with the card or drivers (HD2600pro PCI-e).

Here is another symptom now that I am thinking of it. One of the available resolutions was 1280x768. This actually also worked correctly, and left 16px high bars on the top and bottom, but left the width intact.

I just can't for the life of me think of what could cause problems with a 720p resolution.

I am using DVI->HDMI as well so it is not like it is an analog signal or anything.

If I don't have a solution by tonight, I am going to call optoma and see if they can figure it out. I guess that as a worste case scenario, I can do the 768 and either scale it on put side bars on. Either that, or I return it to J&R and get the HD65 for a little less. It would be really disappointing though.

Edit:

I was able to figure out the problem. It was the refresh rates at 720p. Windows 7 set it at a default of 50. 59 and 120 seemed to correct the problem.

This is introducing a new problem though. It is flickering. At 50hz, there is no flicker though it is sizing wrong. At 59hz, it is fine unless I starting playing video. It isn't just the video though as it affects the whole desktop even when I window the video. At 120hz, the desktop alone starts to flicker and even signal drops out from time to time. I have this set up with an adhock system - from what I remember, it is a 25' hdmi male to femail, 15 dvi to hdmi. I needed a longer run on my Acer so perhaps it is a shielding issue. I have read issues of the Optoma having problems over longer distances. I am hoping this isn't the issue or it may be a deal killer for me. I think this might be what the earlier posting was talking about. I may just need to get a better cable from monoprice with grommets.

gonna play with it some and post back.
post #243 of 1340
Just check on mine with notebook connected via VGA and PJ set as secondary monitor with desktop spanned on it.
Screen is set to 1280x720 and PJ screen is 16:10.
If I set Native I get PC image undistorted but with with small vertical bars left and right of the image in addition to expected top and bottom ones. The most interesting is that Auto behaves exactly as 4:3 setting - downsizing image. It looks like PJ considers VGA input from PC as 4:3 no matter which resolution is used, even 1280x800.
But as soon as I swith to HDMI with PS3 or HDTV settop box image becomes normal - from left to right edge with black bars on top and bottom.
post #244 of 1340
The issue that I am having is definitely a signal strength issue. I tried different refresh rates and it only seems to like 59 and 120 on mine. It resizes everything else.

I am going to update the drivers to see if that changes anything. I don't know if there is anyway to boost the signal strength so I will have to look into that. Other option is the get a single hdmi cable of about 25'. I looked and I am using ATI's dvi to hdmi adapter connected to 3' hdmi which is connected to a 20' or so female to male hdmi. the larger is a pretty heavy gauge. Gonna see if I have any other hdmi's lying around and see if that resolves it. I would hate to order and then wait for a 25' hdmi only to find out that doesn't solve it.
post #245 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmarchini View Post

The issue that I am having is definitely a signal strength issue. I tried different refresh rates and it only seems to like 59 and 120 on mine. It resizes everything else.

I am going to update the drivers to see if that changes anything. I don't know if there is anyway to boost the signal strength so I will have to look into that. Other option is the get a single hdmi cable of about 25'. I looked and I am using ATI's dvi to hdmi adapter connected to 3' hdmi which is connected to a 20' or so female to male hdmi. the larger is a pretty heavy gauge. Gonna see if I have any other hdmi's lying around and see if that resolves it. I would hate to order and then wait for a 25' hdmi only to find out that doesn't solve it.

Edit:

Well, the only stable resolution that could output at 16:9 without resizing is 1920x1080 59hz. Makes everything too small though. It also is going to put a strain on my cpu and gpu at this resolution. cpu util is up to 50% with MC on. I did try WinDVD as well with the same results.

I think I may go ahead and order new cables. Any ideas on what gauge I need at 25'? 22 seems a bit thick. I have my projector on a boom, so it needs to go about 6' to the wall, up an 7' on an 8' ceiling and then out about another 5'. would like to go with 28, but i think it might be too light.
post #246 of 1340
Well, I am learning to live with 1080p. Not bad once you get used to it, but it still seems a little soft to me.

They weren't kidding in the review when they said the calibration was seriously off. I am having a really hard time getting this calibrated. Colors are way off to the extreme. There is no saturation setting on mine. Is that with you using component or vga in?

I still have my colors a little off, but this is what I am coming up with so far:

Brightness: 48
Contrast: 39
Sharpness: 7
advanced
Degamma: film
BrillianColor: 5
Color Temp: Warm
Color
Red Gain: -31
Green Gain: -23
Blue Gain: -24
Red Bias: -28
Green Bias: -8
Blue Bias: -10
Cyan: -9
Magenta: -24
Yellow: -21

lamp mode: normal

Screen: hardboard behr silver screen with laminate to offset the blue shift.

Edit:

I was playing around more with the frequencies. I no longer believe it is a shielding issue, but a projector issue. It displays 1280x768 - 60, 1280x800 - 60, 1920-1080 - 59 just fine. It is just struggling with anything 720p which is ironic as this is advertised as a 720p projector. I sent in something to tech support fully expecting them to tell me it is a source problem. it has issues with most of the other frequencies in between as well and all but 59 at 1080p.

The 1080 is giving me an issue with WinDVD 9 with Blurays and HD DVD as it won't put them out at 1080. DVDs upscale fine. It works fine at lower resolutions as well. I could find a work around, but this budget projector doesn't have the best internal scaler.
post #247 of 1340
Here is an interesting solution from the person who started this inquiry:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cudda_Kine View Post

Just got my Optoma HD66 today. My computer see's it has a EW536, no big deal since all the resolutions are working. Is there a display driver for the HD66? or Is there a way to run windows @ 120hz?? It's extremely jittery when playing videos on it, running it 1280x800 Progressive at 60hz.. Please help.

EDIT: Sorry for this thread, I found out shortly after i posted this thread that you can only have 120hz in 720P or a lower resolution. 1280x800's native resolution only supports 60hz. Can somebody tell me why my 8500GT is saying that it's a EW536? I know that they're both very similar projectors.
post #248 of 1340
I think W7's missing the driver is causing issues. I decided to load PowerStrip which gives you alot more control over the frequencies and such.

Couple things worried me.

The display is feeding back to the computer a maximum resolution of 1600x1200.

I was able to fix it by overriding the frequencies. When set at 720p 60mhz, it scaled it down to about 90% of the screen with bars on both sides. When set at 720p 59, it was fine BUT it flickered when video played as it was experiencing signal loss. At 120, it flickered on the desktop and had signal drop outs with video.

I thought it was a cable issue at first, but I was able to output at 1920x1080 60. There is no way 720 at 59 would flicker, but 2X the resolution at 60 wouldn't... or atleast it didn't make sense to me.

Anyway, I loaded powerstrip. Set it at the working 59 through CCC. Under powerstrip, it read 59.940. I then decided to up the vertical to 60 even. It is stable and working well.

So, here is my diagnosis: Windows is misreading it as an EW536. The Windows 7 driver used for our "EW536" is only partially compatible as it is a generic PnP driver and not an actual optoma driver. It isn't 100% compatible. So some settings will work and others won't. Others may have issues until the actual HD66 driver is released. It seems it is hit or miss with compatibility. I am not saying that the EW536 is not compatible with the HD66 (they actually look like the same projector except that the EW536 has a higher lumen amount), it is just the driver is not available.

I am using an ATI HD2600Pro with W7 RC with the current CCC download (old version had same problem). I will be upgrading it to the RTM this weekend as the deadline is March 1st before it starts timing out.

The projectioncentral.com review is right on the money when they said it may be too bright as a home theater projector some. It is noticeably brighter than my old acer ph530. I would say when calibrated for movies, it is about as bright as bright mode on my older. Probably around 1000 lumens. This is great for many of us though, or atleast that is the way that I see it. After this is projector is broken in and you have lost about 20-30% of your lumens after 800 hours, you will be right around 700-800 lumens which is great.
post #249 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

As rumors go, Tom, this is the most interesting news I've read so far. If Optoma is using checkerboard 3D, like Samsung and Mitsubishi, then an adapter like the one announced by Mitsubishi, or better yet, a firmware update from Optoma, might make the 66 compatible with the output from a 3D Blu-ray player.

Right now, IMO, it's best to wait. Of course, I want full 1080p eventually, but I might consider something like this as a stopgap until fully compatible 1080p projectors are available. I'll keep checking here to find out from those of you who've already bought the HD66.

I was going to get this projector as a NVIDIA 3D Vision owner and use it for 3D games. I actually passed on it for the reasons of uncertainty about 3D through HDMI 1.3 and checkerboard support for 3D Blu-Ray. Also, it's actually NOT certified as a NVIDIA 3D Vision projector and will not work with the latest (1.20) driver for 3D Vision. You have to roll back to driver 1.15 and wear the glasses upside down. I opted for a cheaper VGA input projector for my 3D gaming needs for now and saved a little under $300 getting the cheaper projector. I will upgrade down the road when 3D Blu-Ray/HDMI standards are more clear.
post #250 of 1340
Is there no one in the AVS community with DLP Link glasses?! (Yeah, yeah, they're expensive, sold out and yada yada...) There is a PS3 3D game right now that could be used with the HD66 - Avatar. This could go a ways toward determining the 3D viability of this beamer, no?
post #251 of 1340
People on the 3D Vision forums have it and can get it to work with old drivers and upside down glasses. Most say that the 3D is good when you get it to work. I have the Viewsonic PJD6210 and 3D on it is fabulous and it's quite the inferior projector in comparison to the HD66.
post #252 of 1340
As I stated before, i think there are to many problems associated with unknown knowledge of 3d to buy this projector for the purposes of 3D. Only buy this if your buying for non 3D purposes. I'm sure Epson will have one soon.
post #253 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evolvo View Post

As I stated before, i think there are to many problems associated with unknown knowledge of 3d to buy this projector for the purposes of 3D. Only buy this if your buying for non 3D purposes. I'm sure Epson will have one soon.

+1

This is my second 720p projector (3rd projector total - first was an epson Home 20). I was planning on getting a 1080p next but got rushed into picking this a year early. I like it alot and the idea of 3D down the road is nice, but the reason I bought it was for the Optoma name and high lumen level... and the price doesn't hurt either. It is hard to argue against a sub $700 HD projector with outputs over 2K lumens.

That being said, I will probably get a 1080p next time in about 2 years when my warranty expires on this.

If you are looking to get this for 3D, I would also recommend holding off. When you factor in the cost of the glasses at $600-1200 ($150 x 4-8 people assuming more than just your immediate are going to watch it), the upgrade on your system for 3D which in my case is a $200 video card from nvidia, you are really spending quite a bit for a 720p projector that at present can only handle less than a dozen 3D movies worth watching if that. Seeing that Avatar won't be out on 3D until the end of the year, it is a little premature.

I personally won't even get the glasses and the necessary upgrades until there are atleast 5-10 movies that I will plan on watching... and even then I would really hesitate. Until then, it is definitely more cost effective to see these films at the theater IMO. If the movie is that good, I will probably see there first anyway as I wouldn't want to wait 3-6 months for the home release.

So in reality, you may be better off waiting for the release of the "HD21". by then, the glasses will be alot cheaper.

On the other if you are in need of a projector, I would recommend this over the HD65 as it has better specs and the 3D capability for an extra $20-50 is worth it IMO. For all we know, 3D might really catch on and it makes the HD66 worth a heck of alot more than than the HD65. Furthermore, you are buying into a model now as it is released... hence it is a "newer" unit for a longer period of time.

If you are going to spend $2100 on a 3D projector ($700 HD66 + $1200 3D glasses + $200 playing device), you might as well hold off and spend $2400 for 1080p assuming they use the same pricing structure.
post #254 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evolvo View Post

I'm sure Epson will have one soon.

Right, because all the problems you've stated - like lack of available media to test with or lack of dlp-link glasses - definitely wouldn't apply to some your mythical Epson projector. You have some valid points, then you completely undermine it and end up looking like a fanboy. Meanwhile, if anyone makes it to page 9 of this thread without realizing that there are questions of compatibility that haven't been resolved *EITHER WAY*, I don't think your spouting of EPSONEPSONEPSON! is going to help them.
post #255 of 1340
Defi, why are you so crazy and mad about the 3D on your HD 66. I'm just telling people to simply wait until 3D has a standard and there are better 3D capable projectors out there. I say Epson because it's the brand I prefer, if they released one today within unknown specs and it didn't say that it would work with the ps3 or other Blu Ray 3D devices I wouldn't buy it. I'm talking about down the road when everything is compatible with 3D, then to purchase a projector. I have a Epson, so I like Epson, I haven't said anything bad about Optoma, other than their lack of knowledge on their own projector or whether it will work with future standards. If they come out with a projector and states it will be compatible with most blu ray players then I'd buy one fast. Chill out dude. Your more of a Optoma Fanboy than I am of Epson, cause your getting mad and going crazy. You've got blind faith in your product. Anyway who cares if either one of us is a Fanboy. Epson has great customer service and products and deserves Fans.

P.S.
Epson Fanboy
LOL
post #256 of 1340
You just mad because I got a +1 from BJ. LOL
post #257 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by defiancecp View Post

Right, because all the problems you've stated - like lack of available media to test with or lack of dlp-link glasses - definitely wouldn't apply to some your mythical Epson projector. You have some valid points, then you completely undermine it and end up looking like a fanboy. Meanwhile, if anyone makes it to page 9 of this thread without realizing that there are questions of compatibility that haven't been resolved *EITHER WAY*, I don't think your spouting of EPSONEPSONEPSON! is going to help them.

+1

It really is impressive when you think about how this tech is supposed to work. You have a display that shoots alternating 60hz images. Then you have glasses that alernates shutter speeds at a matching rate. Pretty wild stuff. I can't believe they even have this working considering all the timings needed. You need to sync the source (or trasmitter). display and the glasses

They had something like this back with my Sega master system in 1991. I think the game was Zaxxon 3D. Gave me headaches... of course that was 2 decades ago. It was pretty cool though. I think I also had space harrier 3D as well. They were basically mechanical glasses with a shutter in each lenses to alternate with the TV to create the effect of 3D. You plugged it into the card slot.



I am still trying to understand why we can't just use the RealD set up that many cinemas are using. My understand is that it is alternating 24 fps images using circular polarized lenses. Any idea why they can't do this. If I had to guess, it has something to do with trademarks and copyrights than anything else. The shutter glasses just seem like an overkill way to produce 3D.
post #258 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmarchini View Post

+1

It really is impressive when you think about how this tech is supposed to work. You have a display that shoots alternating 60hz images. Then you have glasses that alernates shutter speeds at a matching rate. Pretty wild stuff. I can't believe they even have this working considering all the timings needed. You need to sync the source (or trasmitter). display and the glasses

They had something like this back with my Sega master system in 1991. I think the game was Zaxxon 3D. Gave me headaches... of course that was 2 decades ago. It was pretty cool though. I think I also had space harrier 3D as well. They were basically mechanical glasses with a shutter in each lenses to alternate with the TV to create the effect of 3D. You plugged it into the card slot.



I am still trying to understand why we can't just use the RealD set up that many cinemas are using. My understand is that it is alternating 24 fps images using circular polarized lenses. Any idea why they can't do this. If I had to guess, it has something to do with trademarks and copyrights than anything else. The shutter glasses just seem like an overkill way to produce 3D.

the reald would be really nice, but you need two projectors for that, and i think you have to be way more precise with the setup, im sure if a person has 2 projectors i dont see why it wont be possible in the home, plus you got to have one of those silver screen.

the shutter glasses believe it or not will be the most econo method. i have said this many times before but i think we will be seeing 50 dollar glasses in the near future. buying 4 of those will be much cheaper than buying a 2nd projector and the silver screen.

i personally dont believe for a second that they (sony, panasonic ect.) will make the glasses 200 each. they want to market for the masses. also i heard rumors (cant find them right now) that they want to package glasses with the tvs.
post #259 of 1340
The main reason RealD isn't for home use is that it requires a special silver screen, which adds to the cost and complexity. A second reason is that RealD requires an extra gismo in front of the projector that switches the polarization of the light 120 times a second - sort of like shutter glasses for the projector - and that thing is quite expensive. So, the shutter glasses are the cheapest way to get good 3D into the home.
post #260 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evolvo View Post

Defi, why are you so crazy and mad about the 3D on your HD 66. I'm just telling people to simply wait until 3D has a standard and there are better 3D capable projectors out there. I say Epson because it's the brand I prefer, if they released one today within unknown specs and it didn't say that it would work with the ps3 or other Blu Ray 3D devices I wouldn't buy it. I'm talking about down the road when everything is compatible with 3D, then to purchase a projector. I have a Epson, so I like Epson, I haven't said anything bad about Optoma, other than their lack of knowledge on their own projector or whether it will work with future standards. If they come out with a projector and states it will be compatible with most blu ray players then I'd buy one fast. Chill out dude. Your more of a Optoma Fanboy than I am of Epson, cause your getting mad and going crazy. You've got blind faith in your product. Anyway who cares if either one of us is a Fanboy. Epson has great customer service and products and deserves Fans.

P.S.
Epson Fanboy
LOL


I'm not an optoma fan any more than I'm an infocus fan or a mitsubishi fan, having owned and enjoyed any of the above. As I said before, you have valid points about 3d having a risk of compatibility. But, when you suggest waiting for Epson, it implies that they wouldn't have the same risk - in spite of the fact that the risk is inherent to the state of the industry. Epson or Optoma have nothing to do with it. I'm just saying, in a thread dedicated to a particular model, suggesting a different brand that doesn't address any of the issues you claim is fanboy behavior. Leave brand preference out of it unless the brand specifically addresses the problems.

As for me being mad about my unit- I sold my dual-projector 3d setup and switched to a normal screen, so I end up with a much better picture (no hotspotting from the silver) and money in my pocket, plus a 3d system that - even if it does have some compatibility issues - is still more compatible than my old setup...
No, I don't think I'm mad at all
post #261 of 1340
First projector/screen purchase, glad I waited and didn't jump on the HD65 before I found this great forum. very excited about it!

The studio we are moving into is a converted mill with extremely vaulted rafter ceilings, so ceiling mount for a screen is not an option.

After doing some research on low priced screens, I am going with the FAVI floor standing 100" portable 16:9 HD model as opposed to the wall mounted version. (new member, not yet permitted to post URL of screen )

Thanks to this thread I should have some idea on settings, much appreciated!

I am however unsure on other basic setup questions:

What projector table height I should shoot for in order to center on this particular screen properly? Any suggestions on an inexpensive purchase for this purpose, to hold the projector and act as mini entertainment center? Just plan to use coffee table for now.

What distance from the screen I should position the projector?

The calculator at optoma.com states 11.3 ft - 12.3 ft (approx. due to zoom)
The screen has 26" of black space below the viewing area and I do not believe this measurement accounts for the "feet" it stands on and the case at the bottom. I am not sure about vertical offset with a table top setup. Any ideas?

Primary use will be watching HD cable tv sports and tv shows, daily

What accessories/cables are needed for optimal connection of:

HD TimeWarner Cable box/DVR

Sony 5:1 HTiB (5-6 years old, no HDMI port)

Sony DVD player/recorder (4 years old, no HDMI port)

Lenovo HDMI compatible laptop pc

I need to spend less than $5 more for my Best Buy purchase to reach $999 so I am happy to buy at least one new cable, have heard mention on this thread of an HDMI cable that pulls other connections into one, but unsure I have hi tech enough equipment for this, hopefully so, please point me in the right direction there if possible.

I already have standard size HDMI, S-Video, and RCA cables, unsure if longer cables will be necessary or if new version HDMI cable is necessary.

I am more concerned with optimal quality connections than I am with having all devices connected at once and am happy to start over with new cables if a particular spec. &/or brand is recommended.

Thank you in advance for your help! I will post once I get everything set up and answer any questions a noob can!
post #262 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by savage animal View Post

First projector/screen purchase, glad I waited and didn't jump on the HD65 before I found this great forum. very excited about it!

The studio we are moving into is a converted mill with extremely vaulted rafter ceilings, so ceiling mount for a screen is not an option.

After doing some research on low priced screens, I am going with the FAVI floor standing 100" portable 16:9 HD model as opposed to the wall mounted version. (new member, not yet permitted to post URL of screen )

Thanks to this thread I should have some idea on settings, much appreciated!

I am however unsure on other basic setup questions:

What projector table height I should shoot for in order to center on this particular screen properly? Any suggestions on an inexpensive purchase for this purpose, to hold the projector and act as mini entertainment center? Just plan to use coffee table for now.

What distance from the screen I should position the projector?

The calculator at optoma.com states 11.3 ft - 12.3 ft (approx. due to zoom)
The screen has 26" of black space below the viewing area and I do not believe this measurement accounts for the "feet" it stands on and the case at the bottom. I am not sure about vertical offset with a table top setup. Any ideas?

Primary use will be watching HD cable tv sports and tv shows, daily

What accessories/cables are needed for optimal connection of:

HD TimeWarner Cable box/DVR

Sony 5:1 HTiB (5-6 years old, no HDMI port)

Sony DVD player/recorder (4 years old, no HDMI port)

Lenovo HDMI compatible laptop pc

I need to spend less than $5 more for my Best Buy purchase to reach $999 so I am happy to buy at least one new cable, have heard mention on this thread of an HDMI cable that pulls other connections into one, but unsure I have hi tech enough equipment for this, hopefully so, please point me in the right direction there if possible.

I already have standard size HDMI, S-Video, and RCA cables, unsure if longer cables will be necessary or if new version HDMI cable is necessary.

I am more concerned with optimal quality connections than I am with having all devices connected at once and am happy to start over with new cables if a particular spec. &/or brand is recommended.

Thank you in advance for your help! I will post once I get everything set up and answer any questions a noob can!

Save your money and buy the cable from monoprice. They are the same and better than what worste buy has.

I am not sure if this would work for you, but I created a boom for my projector as I live in the apartment and didn't want to put holes in the ceiling.



I basically used the metal pipe tubing at homedepot. Great unexpected bonus is that the top can swivel so it gives me some flexibility on projector placement. I have the cords running long the boom arm and down to the floor. I used flanges to attach it to the side wall using toggle bolts. works great.

So I am able to swivel the arm, projector angle and direction using the piping. cost me about $40 or so at home depot. I then just used a ceiling mount screwed to a flange at the end of the arm. I have the boom out about 6' from the wall. You can only go so far below the gravity rip it out of the wall though. I would think you could go up to 10' from the wall before having issues. best part is that is upgradeable. all you do is add or delete pipe with extenders. Fortunately for me, my HD66 prefectly matched the throw distance of my PH530.
post #263 of 1340
what is this cable you speak of?
The HDMI one side and multi other side (if I understand what others have mentioned correctly) ?

thanks for the tip and pic of the boom! Not very mechanically inclined, but might give it a go one day!
post #264 of 1340
Two questions regarding the HD66:

Would using it for playing PC games accomplish the same thing as using a 120Hz LCD computer monitor as far as quality of signal/smoothness, or is that comparing apples to oranges?

Also, would the correct cable to connect a PC to this projector be: DVI out from the video card to HDMI in on the projector?

Thanks very much.
post #265 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickMcKaha View Post

The main reason RealD isn't for home use is that it requires a special silver screen, which adds to the cost and complexity. A second reason is that RealD requires an extra gismo in front of the projector that switches the polarization of the light 120 times a second - sort of like shutter glasses for the projector - and that thing is quite expensive. So, the shutter glasses are the cheapest way to get good 3D into the home.

bingo! The silver screen is the main issue... I do NOT want a silver screen for 2D viewing, and do not want to have to deal with two different screen setups. Silver screens are expensive if you want decent colors and are a bad choice for perf (AT) screens, making the perforations pretty visible. Polarization does not require two projectors however... no reason a rotating disc couldn't be placed in the light path like a color wheel and synched to 3D source. The Dolby 3D is interesting to me for home projectors as well... it should be possible to build a color wheel with more segments that use the required filters for Dolby 3D, but use both bands of each color for 2D. This would mean a single projector with no parts that need to ,move out of the way in 2D, no loss of 2D brightness and lightweight glasses that should be cheaper than shutter glasses (albeit not as cheap as polarized plastics). The problem with all of these solutions is that is requires a very bright projector since you are losing at least half the light. As long as I can get 600 or more calibrated lumens in 3D with no crosstalk, special screens and reasonably priced glasses (~$50 or less) that are comfortable, and that works with the PS3, 3D BD players and 3D HD cable boxes, I'm in! Of course, I personally believe that will be 2-3 years away if it happens at all
post #266 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiamSteve View Post

Two questions regarding the HD66:

Would using it for playing PC games accomplish the same thing as using a 120Hz LCD computer monitor as far as quality of signal/smoothness, or is that comparing apples to oranges?

Also, would the correct cable to connect a PC to this projector be: DVI out from the video card to HDMI in on the projector?

Thanks very much.

No, when you send it a 120hz image, it forces the dlp-link output on, which makes the image look a bit washed out if you're not using glasses... It might be something that could be compensated for, but I'd think the benefit of 120hz over 75hz (which is supported at 1280x800) would be almost nil in comparison to the detriment of the dlp-link signal to image quality without glasses.
post #267 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by defiancecp View Post

No, when you send it a 120hz image, it forces the dlp-link output on, which makes the image look a bit washed out if you're not using glasses... It might be something that could be compensated for, but I'd think the benefit of 120hz over 75hz (which is supported at 1280x800) would be almost nil in comparison to the detriment of the dlp-link signal to image quality without glasses.


@ defiancecp

Oh wow--very interesting, and definitely good to know. Thanks for the response.
post #268 of 1340
Oo!! Actually, I'd never heard of powerstrip until I read about it in this thread. NEAT FACT: I don't know if this applies to the HD66, but I bet it does; everything else so far has been pretty much the same - but on the pro350w, 1280x800 120hz works fine, it's just not available by default; you have to use powerstrip to force it. LIke 720p/120, it forces the dlp-link setting on, but it's hope that full 1280x800 may work fine for 3d gaming on the pc. Now if only there was a way to force dlp-link off at 120hz, I'd just leave it at this setting
post #269 of 1340
Are there any 3D movies out right now that can be viewd on the Optoma HD66 and if so which 3D glasses do you need to buy ?
post #270 of 1340
Quote:
Originally Posted by The big picture View Post

Are there any 3D movies out right now that can be viewd on the Optoma HD66 and if so which 3D glasses do you need to buy ?

from what i hear cloudy with the chance of meat balls will be the first movie to be released in 3-d not till spring or summer, as for the glasses you will need active shutter glasses, the prices of them are 200+ as of right now there are only 2 or 3 companies that sells them for consumers, but as more of the bigger companies start to come out with them it will only drive the price down.

so i would hold off on buying the glasses, also you will need a ps3 or 3-d compatible bluray player. they are gonna start to release them in the next couple months.
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