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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 38

post #1111 of 2749
12/28/11 at 5:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Thanks btinindy. I need to make a trip to Home Depot to stock up on more blades!

So I'm tossing around the idea of carpeting the front stage...before I commit to the work and materials. It would be a pretty large time saver and would also eliminate some of the light reflections in the room. I added the bullnose in other areas mostly to help prevent someone from mistepping in the dark theater. The front stage is not a concern obviously.

Any thoughts on which you guys would do based upon these renders? I would still using 1/4" solid surface for the rise...just carpet on the top.

Mario - fantastic layout and build; I've been following along. I'd say your main room carpet for the stage; seems to work better in your rendering.
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post #1112 of 2749
12/28/11 at 6:29am
Looking awesome Mario! Man, you've made a ton of progress in a relatively short period of time. The stage probably would be easier and look great with carpet and, like you said, would minimize reflections.
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post #1113 of 2749
12/28/11 at 8:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post


Now I just need to figure out how to make a biscuit joint. I'm pretty sure I just need a bit for the router but will do some research.

You could also join the sections of bullnose together using pocket screws (on the bottom, of course). You would assemble the whole section on the work bench and then lay it in place. Personally, I would use pocket screws before I would cut biscuit slots with a router.

If you want to use biscuit joints, you should check Craigslist for used biscuit joiners. You should be able to pick up a machine for under $100 that would be perfectly fine for occasional use.
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post #1114 of 2749
12/28/11 at 8:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

So I'm tossing around the idea of carpeting the front stage...before I commit to the work and materials. It would be a pretty large time saver and would also eliminate some of the light reflections in the room. I added the bullnose in other areas mostly to help prevent someone from mistepping in the dark theater. The front stage is not a concern obviously.

Any thoughts on which you guys would do based upon these renders? I would still using 1/4" solid surface for the rise...just carpet on the top.

I like the idea of solid black carpet on the horizontal surfaces and black-finished wood on the vertical risers. The difference in sheen and texture will call attention to the fact that you have different levels there, while still being fairly subtle.
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post #1115 of 2749
12/28/11 at 8:07am
I have a biscuit joiner and would recommend it over the router... I also have a jig system... what the heck is it called... I wanna say Craig System... Anyway, I think Big has this system also. Uses jigs to guide the drill to make precise holes, then use their screws. I like that also.
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post #1116 of 2749
12/28/11 at 8:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

I have a biscuit joiner and would recommend it over the router... I also have a jig system... what the heck is it called... I wanna say Craig System... Anyway, I think Big has this system also. Uses jigs to guide the drill to make precise holes, then use their screws. I like that also.

It is called Kreg.
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post #1117 of 2749
12/28/11 at 8:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

I have a biscuit joiner and would recommend it over the router... I also have a jig system... what the heck is it called... I wanna say Craig System... Anyway, I think Big has this system also. Uses jigs to guide the drill to make precise holes, then use their screws. I like that also.

It's Kreg
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post #1118 of 2749
12/28/11 at 8:18am
Kreg! That's it. Thanks
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post #1119 of 2749
12/28/11 at 8:59am
+1 on the Kreg jig. It has been incredibly useful for me.
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post #1120 of 2749
12/28/11 at 10:39am
Pocket screws = Kreg jig

Here's the kind of joint we're talking about:

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post #1121 of 2749
12/28/11 at 10:52am
Your theater is looking great... Nice Job!
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post #1122 of 2749
12/28/11 at 12:21pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys. I do have the Kreg jig. Used it extensively on the columns. I'll go that route instead of the biscuits.

If I decide to run with the carpet on the stage, can I just construct the top layer out of OSB? Then put a lip underneath to beef it up for the carpet to wrap around?

I don't think a bull nose will look right on the stage given the shallow depth of the stairs but something I'll double check.

I have my "carpet lady" checking into a black carpet to match the color and weave of the Masland Quadrate Time's Square. That may sway my decision on solid oak, black carpet or the same Time's Square pattern.
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post #1123 of 2749
12/28/11 at 1:28pm
Masland has a nice basic plush black. IMHO It won't matter if it is darker and different weave than the rest of the floor. That is the gray Quadrate of the floor. The plush is so black you really don't see the weave.

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post #1124 of 2749
12/29/11 at 5:56am
Which Kreg Jig system is everyone using?

I see they offer 4 or 5 versions ranging from $25 to $125
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post #1125 of 2749
12/29/11 at 6:27am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Which Kreg Jig system is everyone using?

I see they offer 4 or 5 versions ranging from $25 to $125

I personally bought the K4 Master System.
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post #1126 of 2749
12/29/11 at 11:28am
Hi Mario - I saw your question in my thread and figured I'd respond here. I got my popcorn machine from www.foodservicewarehouse.com. They had great prices and free shipping. I just made my first batch of popcorn and it was easy and really really good. Here's a link to the particular machine I bought: http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/...d/p379442.aspx
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post #1127 of 2749
12/29/11 at 12:39pm
If he is looking for a popcorn machine, there is also Deuster Company in Menlo Falls, Wisconsin to consider. They have quite a selection of popcorn machines and other various commercial vending supplies. And they might even be close enough to Mario's location in Kenosha, WI, that he could go over and view them in person.

http://www.deusterco.com/contents/en-us/d5.html


They also show that 4oz Gold Medal popper in red, for a lower price than your source.

http://www.deusterco.com/contents/en-us/d54.html
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post #1128 of 2749
12/29/11 at 9:37pm
Most people who see my theater for the first time ask the same question: where is the popcorn machine? We have been reluctant to get one because we aren't sure we want greasy fingers on our nice leather recliners: especially "little greasy fingers" (those belonging to our 8-year-old and her friends).

So those with popcorn machines, what do you think? Does having popcorn in the theater cause a mess on the leather? Is it hard to keep things clean? Does it smell up the space? One of the selling points of my home theater is "just like a movie theater, but without the sticky floor." I'd like to keep it that way.
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post #1129 of 2749
12/30/11 at 5:36am
I have a popcorn machine and have learned a few lessons. If you are going to have a large commercial style popcorn machine you absolutely need and exhaust fan in the vicinity. I didn't and on my to do list is to punch a hole in the ceiling and add one. Now I have to stick a fan in a nearby window.

I have found that I use my microwave for personal use all the time rather than crank up the big one. I use the low fat healthier choices exclusively. A big popper is really designed to feed a lot of munchers with no concern for fat content and to add ambiance to the theater space.

If you are going to be entertaining a lot it would make sense.
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post #1130 of 2749
12/30/11 at 5:55am
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the references guys. I was reluctant to get a popcorn popper just because I didn't want to clean it up and I know the kids will want to use it every time. But my bro-in-law said it wasn't bad to clean up at all. So I'm reconsidering.

BigMouthinDC,
You mentioned needing to have a vent/fan nearby. Do these popcorn machines produce a lot of steam that would damage the drywall ceiling? I don't really have venting options being in the basement.
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post #1131 of 2749
12/30/11 at 6:05am
Mario,

I think you said you were looking for a joiner, check out this link
http://slickdeals.net/f/3767374-Wood...mpaign=tu-9999
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post #1132 of 2749
12/30/11 at 6:06am
Thread Starter 
I don't see myself being done with the room by the Superbowl. So my realistic goal is to be ready for painting and trim work by then.

To get ahead of the game, I had the room measured for carpet. She said it will take 10 - 14 days for delivery. I'm glad she did come over, because she mentioned that the way I'm running the carpet (sideways) and opposite of Ruben's theater, that the carpet doesn't bend or look as well over stairs because it opens the seem. Which probably explains why Ruben ran his the way he did.

I did some more renderings with the Masland carpet before my meeting with her and was liking it.




She brought over some black commercial carpet that may work well.

But I want to play with the idea of a small bull nose on the front of the stage with the Masland carpet first. I think a 3 1/2" bull nose like I use in the other areas might be a bit much. So I was thinking of rendering one at about 1 1/2" depth.

The other obstacle I realized is that I need to finish the edges of the carpet on the DBox platform and the carpet that surrounds it. They can sow a seamed edge so the carpet won't fray. Otherwise I'd have to build a frame out of oak that is 3/4" high that the carpet could run into. I think I'm leaning towards the seam. It will be much less conspicuous.
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post #1133 of 2749
12/30/11 at 9:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

BigMouthinDC,
You mentioned needing to have a vent/fan nearby. Do these popcorn machines produce a lot of steam that would damage the drywall ceiling? I don't really have venting options being in the basement.

If you've built a nice tight soundproofed space the smell is the first issue, steam and smoke is the second. I'm not sure how close your drywall ceiling is but after repeated use I image there would be a residue on the ceiling. As for venting options if you have access to the joist space you can put in a vent, You drill a hole in the rim joist and stick in an exhaust vent cover just like a dryer vent sticking out the side of the house.

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post #1134 of 2749
12/30/11 at 10:03am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If you've built a nice tight soundproofed space the smell is the first issue, steam and smoke is the second. I'm not sure how close your drywall ceiling is but after repeated use I image there would be a residue on the ceiling. As for venting options if you have access to the joist space you can put in a vent, You drill a hole in the rim joist and stick in an exhaust vent cover just like a dryer vent sticking out the side of the house.


Maybe I can just put the popcorn machine in the bathroom shower. That room is already vented to the outside.
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post #1135 of 2749
12/30/11 at 10:05am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Mario,

I think you said you were looking for a joiner, check out this link
http://slickdeals.net/f/3767374-Wood...mpaign=tu-9999

Good find. I was planning on going with the Kreg jig...but I may stop in HD just to see if they are still there at that price...just in case.
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post #1136 of 2749
12/30/11 at 10:22am
Wow. A popcorn stall with ventiation, fire supression availability with a drain. Pretty hi tech
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post #1137 of 2749
12/30/11 at 10:56am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Wow. A popcorn stall with ventiation, fire supression availability with a drain. Pretty hi tech

And don't forget that tantilizing popcorn fresh scent!
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post #1138 of 2749
12/30/11 at 4:06pm
We have a popcorn machine and absolutely love it. It was located inside my v3.0 home theater, but with my current V4.0 theater build, it will be located outside of the theater. Too much steam (although, it can make for a nostalgic look with the appearance of "smoke" that the projected image shoots through), and it is just noisy and the light can be distracting. Oils/grease from it on the furniture has never been an issue for us. That includes leather and microfiber...

So I would vote for a popcorn popper, but locate it outside the theater if at all possible. Get large dedicated bowls if you are afraid that people will need to keep getting up and leaving the room to get more popcorn.
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post #1139 of 2749
12/30/11 at 4:09pm
I just discovered this thread today....amazing work. Since I am trying to kick the flu bug right now I had time to read through the entire thread start to finish and see the design process evolve. I wish I was in a position to own the necessary software and have the necessary experience to develop such detailed renderings. I can see where it really helps flush out most of the major design ideas before ever cutting the first stud (or in your case applying the first coat of hydraulic cement in your case! ). It looks like you are making some great progress and easily past the tipping point of the project.

Keep up the great work and I look forward to more updates!

P.S. - My vote is for carpet on the front proscenium....why do wood which can be reflective?
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post #1140 of 2749
12/31/11 at 9:49am
Thread Starter 
Here are some more updates.

I finished putting in the final room column electrical outlet. I have a cat5 in the column as well that runs back to the patch panel. I haven't decided if I'll need it for anything. I'll need to make a decision as to whether to cut another gang box hole above the electrical outlet before mounting the column. It'll be easier to cut now. I may need it to change the step led lighting colors from a remote. But I'm thinking it'll be easier to just snake the IR sensor into the column and wire it hidden.

In fact, I should probably wire an internal electrical outlet while I have the chance. So I can hide the transformer if I want.




To do the front bull nose. I screwed two blocks to the stage that are square to the side walls. Then screwed the oak down. I made sure that my final cuts would leave me with 3.5" width. Then traced the underside. I built a buffer block that I used during tracing which keeps me flush to the side wall and out the distance I need. Keeps me from having to reach way back as well.



Next I cut with the jigsaw along my mark.


I used my handy 3.5" spacer to mark my next cut using the first cutline as a guide.


Before cutting, I marked straight lines in the arch off the square edge. I wasn't sure if I would need them as cut lines, but once that square edge is gone you are only left with angles.



It took three pieces to build the front bull nose. I ended up stacking the smaller pieces on top of the larger one and tracing my cut lines which ended up being about 17 degree's. So I didn't end up using the straight cut.






If I wasn't concerned about the echo, it might look really cool to have the whole first row platform in oak!
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