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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 39

post #1141 of 2747
12/31/11 at 10:12am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

We have a popcorn machine and absolutely love it. It was located inside my v3.0 home theater, but with my current V4.0 theater build, it will be located outside of the theater. Too much steam (although, it can make for a nostalgic look with the appearance of "smoke" that the projected image shoots through), and it is just noisy and the light can be distracting. Oils/grease from it on the furniture has never been an issue for us. That includes leather and microfiber...

So I would vote for a popcorn popper, but locate it outside the theater if at all possible. Get large dedicated bowls if you are afraid that people will need to keep getting up and leaving the room to get more popcorn.

Good advice. I have space for the popper in the theater. But I'll keep it outside for sure.
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post #1142 of 2747
12/31/11 at 10:15am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I just discovered this thread today....amazing work. Since I am trying to kick the flu bug right now I had time to read through the entire thread start to finish and see the design process evolve. I wish I was in a position to own the necessary software and have the necessary experience to develop such detailed renderings. I can see where it really helps flush out most of the major design ideas before ever cutting the first stud (or in your case applying the first coat of hydraulic cement in your case! ). It looks like you are making some great progress and easily past the tipping point of the project.

Keep up the great work and I look forward to more updates!

P.S. - My vote is for carpet on the front proscenium....why do wood which can be reflective?

Thanks for popping in. Hope you recover from the flu. It's going around here. I can definitely feel something brewing in me the past couple days. I'm hoping it doesn't get worse.

As I've said here before, the ability to create the room has been a tremendous help in planning. Although you end up spending more time in the software than in the room actually doing the work.

BTW, I'm still deciding on carpet for the stage. I just think the oak would look better next to the cabinetry look on the stage. But the carpet would be better for reflections.
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post #1143 of 2747
12/31/11 at 12:04pm
Thread Starter 
Question.

The stage has already been set to have a solid surface on top of it with an overhang. If I go down the carpet route for the stage, that height would remain. But I would need to add a lip for the carpet to roller over.

In this photo, on the right, you can see that the current top layer is 3/4" OSB. So my question is what is the best way to add that lip? I'm thinking I could mount a 1/4" oak on the front for the face of the stage the same height as is there now. Then add (2) layers of 1/2" x 1" furring strips to the front. That would push me out 1". Any thoughts?
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post #1144 of 2747
1/1/12 at 8:33am
I would take one of two different approaches. The easiest and best approach to getting the nosing is to actually buy a nosing and use kerf cuts on the back side to create the bend. Glue and face screw the final product (flush with the top OSB layer, of course), making sure to predrill for all of the screwholes first.

Using your proposed method of 1.0" high by 1/2" thick plywood/OSB strips I would offer the following approach since you will ultimately have to use a router to put a rollover on the top and bottom of these strips to make it look like a real nosing. Test-fit all of the strips (probably four pieces in total since the curve of your step looks like it exceeds 8 feet) in position (two layers of two pieces per layer), making sure to stagger the seams of the strips. Once you are happy with the fit, I would lay the first layer of strips flat on the floor and lay a solid bead of construction adhesive on top and then add the second layer so you essentially have a flat 1" thick strip. Now, working quickly while the adhesive is still wet, I would start to install the strip into position on the front edge of the step, starting at one corner and working my way around, securing the assembly with screws every 4 to 6 inches as needed. The screws will act as your clamps until the adhesive sets. Once the adhesive sets, take your router with a round over bit across the top of this strip. Remove all the screws, flip the molding over and apply adhesive to the back of the curved strip and permanently reattach to the step. You can now run your router over this new top of the nosing with a round over bit to complete the molding.

I hope this is understandable and helps you with your approach.
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post #1145 of 2747
1/3/12 at 8:42am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I would take one of two different approaches. The easiest and best approach to getting the nosing is to actually buy a nosing and use kerf cuts on the back side to create the bend. Glue and face screw the final product (flush with the top OSB layer, of course), making sure to predrill for all of the screwholes first.

Using your proposed method of 1.0" high by 1/2" thick plywood/OSB strips I would offer the following approach since you will ultimately have to use a router to put a rollover on the top and bottom of these strips to make it look like a real nosing. Test-fit all of the strips (probably four pieces in total since the curve of your step looks like it exceeds 8 feet) in position (two layers of two pieces per layer), making sure to stagger the seams of the strips. Once you are happy with the fit, I would lay the first layer of strips flat on the floor and lay a solid bead of construction adhesive on top and then add the second layer so you essentially have a flat 1" thick strip. Now, working quickly while the adhesive is still wet, I would start to install the strip into position on the front edge of the step, starting at one corner and working my way around, securing the assembly with screws every 4 to 6 inches as needed. The screws will act as your clamps until the adhesive sets. Once the adhesive sets, take your router with a round over bit across the top of this strip. Remove all the screws, flip the molding over and apply adhesive to the back of the curved strip and permanently reattach to the step. You can now run your router over this new top of the nosing with a round over bit to complete the molding.

I hope this is understandable and helps you with your approach.


Thanks for the informative post. I went back and forth between carpet and oak. Finally I figured I'd just let the wife/boss decide. She opted for oak.

I think it works a bit better look-wise with the front wall cabinetry.

So I decided to start tackling the front wall last night and made a good dent on jig sawing the oak. I liquid nailed and screwed the first layer of osb down finally and then made some precut pieces for the top section. I'll fill in the back side with 3/4" OSB or MDF scraps I have since it won't be visible.

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post #1146 of 2747
1/3/12 at 8:46am
Thread Starter 
And here are some renders of what the final product should look like.

I'm curious what size round over are people putting on the bull noses. I think Moggie did 1/2". But I'm almost tempted to do 3/8" to add a bit more meat to the step. Any thoughts? My renders are 1/2". I guess it probably wouldn't be that noticable in the end.













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post #1147 of 2747
1/3/12 at 8:53am
Damn, I love those renderings! Can't wait to see the final product!
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post #1148 of 2747
1/3/12 at 9:28am
I think you need to turn down the contrast on your rendered projector
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post #1149 of 2747
1/3/12 at 12:30pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

I think you need to turn down the contrast on your rendered projector

Yeah. Haven't had time to calibrate it yet.
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post #1150 of 2747
1/4/12 at 8:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'm curious what size round over are people putting on the bull noses. I think Moggie did 1/2". But I'm almost tempted to do 3/8" to add a bit more meat to the step. Any thoughts? My renders are 1/2". I guess it probably wouldn't be that noticable in the end.

Hey Mario - looking great! I would think you'd want at least 1/2" radius on your roundover, and if it were me, I'd even think about 3/4", assuming your oak buildup is 1-1/2" thick, yielding a complete 180 degree bullnose. However, it's also important to match whatever you're doing on the rest of your steps...

If you do choose something > 3/8", be sure to do it in multiple passes -- you'll get much better results (sorry if that's obvious). Might want to also "back route" the sections going against grain.

Bryan
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post #1151 of 2747
1/4/12 at 8:27am
I think you may not like the reflections off the top of that speaker array under the screen. You may want to fit the top with a fidelio black velvet panel.
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post #1152 of 2747
1/4/12 at 8:30am
Hi Mario, yes I did 1/2" radius on my steps (which was the largest round over bit I had). This leaves a flat front of a two layer step. I liked this look of this because it did, as you suggest, give the edge more "meat". I think 3/8" is a little small though.
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post #1153 of 2747
1/4/12 at 8:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I think you may not like the reflections off the top of that speaker array under the screen.

I was thinking about that. My current plan is to use fidelio black velvet on the top of the cabinet. Then put a wood edging on the front. I'll probably end up wrapping everything that is around the screen with the fidelio black velvet. So the angled 45 columns will have a wood face, but a velvet side facing the screen.
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post #1154 of 2747
1/4/12 at 8:43am
I was working on this while you were typing to demonstrate what it will look like with the lights off and a movie playing.

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post #1155 of 2747
1/4/12 at 9:03am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Hey Mario - looking great! I would think you'd want at least 1/2" radius on your roundover, and if it were me, I'd even think about 3/4", assuming your oak buildup is 1-1/2" thick, yielding a complete 180 degree bullnose. However, it's also important to match whatever you're doing on the rest of your steps...

If you do choose something > 3/8", be sure to do it in multiple passes -- you'll get much better results (sorry if that's obvious). Might want to also "back route" the sections going against grain.

Bryan

I did some test routing last night. Maybe my inexperience shows, but I'm using a 1/2" round over bit. After routing, there's about a 1/2" of flat edge and only a 1/4" rounded. I was expecting a 1/2" rounded. If I set the bit lower, it starts to eat into the top of the wood.

Bryan, I'm open to any tips, best practices you can provide about routing.

I took a piece of 1x2 oak and routed both sides. Then I tryed to rip it in half with a table saw. It fought through it, but at the end of the run got off. So I'm guessing I'll need to build something to keep the piece constrained to the table since it's so small.

I'll have to review how Moggie did it. But can I shoot finish nails through the routed oak from the bottom to the top of the stair tread? I could use some adhesive too. Or is the finish nail not needed with the adhesive?
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post #1156 of 2747
1/4/12 at 9:29am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I was working on this while you were typing to demonstrate what it will look like with the lights off and a movie playing.


Thanks Big.

If I had an extra 2' of space in the room and the subs didn't need to sit in front of the screen, I would have designed a completely different look for the screen wall. The black velvet will solve the the reflection issues near the screen. But the front wood steps will still produce some. A bit of balance between look and function.
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post #1157 of 2747
1/4/12 at 9:31am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Hi Mario, yes I did 1/2" radius on my steps (which was the largest round over bit I had). This leaves a flat front of a two layer step. I liked this look of this because it did, as you suggest, give the edge more "meat". I think 3/8" is a little small though.

Thanks Moggie. I'm going to double-back to your thread to see yours. I think I'm going to route all my pieces before assembling them so I can have sharp corners rather than rounded. I think you routed yours after they were assembled.
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post #1158 of 2747
1/4/12 at 9:33am
Thread Starter 
Question...is it a bad idea to use an orbital sander (which is what I already own) to smooth the oak edges?
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post #1159 of 2747
1/4/12 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Question...is it a bad idea to use an orbital sander (which is what I already own) to smooth the oak edges?

Yes, a Random Orbital Sander is your best bet over a traditional Sheet Sander for fine wood working.
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post #1160 of 2747
1/5/12 at 8:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I did some test routing last night. Maybe my inexperience shows, but I'm using a 1/2" round over bit. After routing, there's about a 1/2" of flat edge and only a 1/4" rounded. I was expecting a 1/2" rounded. If I set the bit lower, it starts to eat into the top of the wood.

Hmmm, that's strange -- I would have expected 1/2" rounded, too. Are you certain you have a 1/2" roundover bit? The cutting flukes should be a curve drawn between the two opposite corners of an imaginary 1/2" x 1/2" box. And the outside of the guide bearing should line up perfectly with the bottom edges of the cutters and not extend out any further.

If you indeed have the right sized bearing on there, then perhaps you're actually working with a 1/4" radius bit...

Bryan
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post #1161 of 2747
1/5/12 at 8:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I did some test routing last night. Maybe my inexperience shows, but I'm using a 1/2" round over bit. After routing, there's about a 1/2" of flat edge and only a 1/4" rounded. I was expecting a 1/2" rounded. If I set the bit lower, it starts to eat into the top of the wood.

Something weird is happening here. The profile the bit cuts is controlled by two things: the depth at which the bit is set, and the bearing that guides the bit. If the bit is set to the correct depth, then the other possibility is that the guide bearing was not riding against the workpiece. Is that possible?

The only other thing that occurs to me is to question whether you really have a 1/2" radius roundover bit. Router bits usually have two different dimensions or measurements listed on the package. In the case of a roundover bit, one dimension listed on the package will be the radius of the roundover. The second dimension listed will be the shank size. Maybe you have a bit with a 1/2" shank but a 1/4" radius?


Quote:


Question...is it a bad idea to use an orbital sander (which is what I already own) to smooth the oak edges?

An orbital sander will work, but a random orbit sander will be faster. If you end up buying a random orbit sander, look for one you can hook up to your shop vac. MUCH better dust collection that way.
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post #1162 of 2747
1/5/12 at 9:30am
Just a note on sanding, a common error when applying stain is to over sand before applying the stain. I took a class on finishing and the instructions were to not go beyond 200 grit prior to staining. You need for the material to have some tooth to accept the stain. You can go finer between finish coats.

If you were doing a wood tone stain, after sanding with an orbital you should make some long straight passes with a sanding block, At the microscopic level you are putting down parallel rows of groves that will accept the stain evenly.
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post #1163 of 2747
1/5/12 at 1:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post


Hmmm, that's strange -- I would have expected 1/2" rounded, too. Are you certain you have a 1/2" roundover bit? The cutting flukes should be a curve drawn between the two opposite corners of an imaginary 1/2" x 1/2" box. And the outside of the guide bearing should line up perfectly with the bottom edges of the cutters and not extend out any further.

If you indeed have the right sized bearing on there, then perhaps you're actually working with a 1/4" radius bit...

Bryan

A 1/2" roundover bit only has a 1/4" radius.

It is called that because it will "round over" or create a semi-circle on the edge of a 1/2" thick piece of wood.
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post #1164 of 2747
1/5/12 at 5:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADAIR View Post

A 1/2" roundover bit only has a 1/4" radius.

It is called that because it will "round over" or create a semi-circle on the edge of a 1/2" thick piece of wood.

Hmmm, not my experience, but in any case, hopefully Mario will end up with the correct bit here...

Bryan
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post #1165 of 2747
1/5/12 at 8:19pm
Seeing as how there seems to be some router bit confusion....

Roundover bits. Only cuts one edge of a board as 1/4 of a complete circle



Some of the many uses for a roundover.

"Create perfectly flush decorative edges perfect for drawer fronts. Cabinet edges and small finish moldings."





Double roundover w/guide bearing. Will cut both upper & lower edges of a board at the same time.



Uses for a double roundover.

"The center guide bearing allows you to round over both sides of material in one pass. The eased edge is perfect for stair treads, table edges, shelves, toys, etc."





Bullnose bit. Like a double roundover it cuts both upper & lower edges of a board, except unlike a double roundover it is non adjustable for different board thickness or type of cut. It turns the edge of a board into 1/2 of a complete circle.




One one of the primary uses of a bullnose bit, is making stair treads.

"Bullnose Bits are the perfect choice for the edges of stair treads, window sills, shelves, and more. Or you can create an oval edge by using a bit with a bead diameter greater than the stock thickness. Bullnose bits with a guide bearing allow for pattern cutting"
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post #1166 of 2747
1/6/12 at 9:53am
Thread Starter 
Sorry guys. Me and the entire family have been sick for the past few days. So not much progress going on. I did discover I was using the wrong size router bit. I thought the largest bit was 3/4" so I grabbed the next size down. Turns out the biggest I had was 1/2". So mystery solved.

I like the idea and time saving of just using the Double Roundover bit on all the bull nose, but I think it may be a little thin looking at 3/4". So it looks like I'll need to secure another 3/4" lip below it.

I still may go the biscuit route over the kreg jig route for connecting "some" of the bull nose. I just don't like the idea of possibly screwing up or breaking a 18' single piece while trying to get it in place. The biscuits will give me a little more play as well. Specifically, I would probably want to use the biscuits behind the back row. Perhaps I use a combination so I can fit them right on the step.

I know Moggie hid his screws on the carpet side of the bull nose. But that even scares me that I might screw up the piece or break off the bottom portion of the oak. There's going to be quite a few hours into making all of these bull noses and I just hate to screw it up because of my inexperience. Remember, I'm more at home with a mouse than power tools.

My carpet guy was nice enough to lend me his Dewalt Biscuit joiner along with some other tools (planer and a oscilating spindle sander). I think the oscilating spindle sander will be good for making the 3/4" edge of the bull nose smoother and keeping a square edge. Then I'll attach the 3/4" bottom lip.
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post #1167 of 2747
1/6/12 at 1:08pm
What's your distance from the front row to the screen?
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post #1168 of 2747
1/6/12 at 1:15pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrior_Poet View Post

What's your distance from the front row to the screen?

It's closer than I would have liked, but in the upright position it's about 10'6".

I should gain a foot in the reclined position. Which I've heard you want to recline when watching DBox movies to really feel like you're flying.
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post #1169 of 2747
1/7/12 at 9:17am
Thread Starter 
Any recommendations on how I should attach the Oak treads to the OSB?

I was thinking liquid nails or Loctite polyeurathane adhesive if I don't want to see any screws. But if I go this route for the entire stage, I won't be able to put roofing felt in between the layers to prevent squeaking.

Do I use a "fine" thread for connecting the oak sections together with the Kreg Jig?
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post #1170 of 2747
1/7/12 at 9:28am
Thread Starter 
I worked in the theater last night until about 4am. I finished many of the risers and stair sides with 1/4" oak veneer using 18 ga finish nails and liquid nails. All the osb steps were screwed and liquid nailed before hand. The oak puzzle pieces for the front stage are pretty much done. The random orbital sander did a nice job. NOTE: The oak riser that's peeling away has been pre-cut. Just need to install it.







I think I have a game plan for carpeting the Dbox motion platform and surround fixed platform:

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