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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 5

post #121 of 3008
Thread Starter 
What do you think about this version (with and without grills) compared to just doing the acoustic panels on top? I got rid of the chair rail. My original renderings were using half round, this version has moulding probably a little closer to the real thing.

koach - is the original still your favorite?



post #122 of 3008
I like the last picture the best (with the grills)
post #123 of 3008
Just how sturdy will those grills be?
post #124 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Floyd,
THanks for your vote.

Tedd,
I just create the vision. It's up to the guy with the hammer to figure out how to build it. I'm assuming there would be furring strips that divide up the OC703 on the wall that the grills would attach to.

I'm not sure I'm sold on the grills in this latest design given all the varying lines and levels that now exist. By taking out the chair rail...you kind of lose some sort of reference point and balance to the wall. Just getting a feel for what others think and hopefully generate some more ideas.

I'm hoping to have a plan that allows me the flexibility to choose my favorite design (with chair rail) if I can't notice much difference in the acoustics after doing a field test with the speakers and receiver and OC703 placement. Then this plan B that compromises the look slightly for sound. But either will hopefully be able to be done after the drywall goes up.

The only few differences between my favorite and this latest design is the size of the acoustic panels, chair rail, and the size of the bottom moulding.
post #125 of 3008
I like B and E from the previous page. For some reason panels that resemble doors and windows are jumping out at me in your renderings.

BTW, have you seen this theater? I can't help thinking everytime I see how classy your renderings are that it reminds me of this one with a different color scheme.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccool96 View Post

Currently at this stage!

Screen Shot

Back of room
post #126 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

What do you think about this version (with and without grills) compared to just doing the acoustic panels on top? I got rid of the chair rail. My original renderings were using half round, this version has moulding probably a little closer to the real thing.

koach - is the original still your favorite?

The original is still my favorite, but I'm biased. I went through similar different designs when I was planning mine and ultimately settled on the one I like the best.
post #127 of 3008
Thread Starter 
IN2Photos,

Yeah - I do believe I've run into that theater before. I like especially like the way they did the ceiling and thought that might make doing a star ceiling a little bit easier because you'd be dealing with much smaller panels and not have to worry about hiding seams.

koach,
I think I'm pretty close now to where I just need to talk to someone on the construction side to verify my insets around the foundation. I have enough concepts that I think I can make decisions later. I just have to make sure that column in the last row doesn't get too close to the back row seats making it difficult to get someone through.

One thought that crossed my mind is that if I go with DD/GG and then start puching holes to mount columns, fabric, trim, etc. Won't that defeat the purpose?
post #128 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post


One thought that crossed my mind is that if I go with DD/GG and then start puching holes to mount columns, fabric, trim, etc. Won't that defeat the purpose?


Small penetrations are not a really big issue if there's insulation in the cavity behind them. Examples would be a speaker wire coming through or small 1" conduit.

Medium penetrations would be something like a single gang junction box. This needs to be sealed up from the backside with a fire-rated putty pad. This seals and adds some mass.

Double gang boxes and larger (ceiling cans) would require a backer box be built to prevent the noise from simply polluting the air cavity and framing behind the protective double drywall. http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...llation_guide/
post #129 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

One thought that crossed my mind is that if I go with DD/GG and then start puching holes to mount columns, fabric, trim, etc. Won't that defeat the purpose?

For my theater, I installed the drywall and then put the columns in, so there is complete GG coverage all around. Your're not making a hole in the drywall when you screw or nail through it, because the nail or screw plugs the hole it makes. Remember the drywall itself has a bunch of screws holding it to the studs (or hat track).

I'm not a fan of the grills. The blank acoustic panels look much classier IMO.
post #130 of 3008
The full length panels look the best IMO. The other designs are a bit too much.
post #131 of 3008
Looks like you have a nice space to work with. When do you plan to start your build?
post #132 of 3008
Lose the chair rail and go full length with the panels. Remember that less is often more. Here is a shot of a similar theater:

post #133 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks Ted and 3FingerBrown for your feedback.

That makes sense on the sound proofing. I do plan to create start by building as much of the room as possible with dd/gg. Then add the columns and most of the room soffit afterwards. I have some pipes on the left side of the ceiling that we'll have to build around. So I'm assuming the builder will have to do the soffit and ceiling on that one side at the same time.

I like to grills in some of the renders, in others, it does seem busy. I hadn't seen that theater image you posted 3fingerbrown. I may try something similar.

Quote:


Looks like you have a nice space to work with. When do you plan to start your build?

schmidtwi - I haven't actually set a start date. I have some hvac stuff that needs to happen before I can begin. I'll also need to determine whether I should treat the walls with DryLok or not. I know I have a little crack near the corner that a little water seaped through last year when we had extremely heavy rains. I'll need to modify my landscaping outside which will help, but want to make sure it doesn't get in the theater at all costs. As soon as I have all my future proofing plans thought out to the point I can instruct the contractor on what to do, I'll be on it. The good thing is I probably don't have the time or skills to do the work myself. So it should go fairly quickly as long as I don't hold things up.
post #134 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'll also need to determine whether I should treat the walls with DryLok or not. I know I have a little crack near the corner that a little water seaped through last year when we had extremely heavy rains. I'll need to modify my landscaping outside which will help, but want to make sure it doesn't get in the theater at all costs.

If you have a crack, get it sealed ASAP, regardless of whether or not you go with Drylock.
post #135 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post


That makes sense on the sound proofing. I do plan to create start by building as much of the room as possible with dd/gg. Then add the columns and most of the room soffit afterwards. I have some pipes on the left side of the ceiling that we'll have to build around. So I'm assuming the builder will have to do the soffit and ceiling on that one side at the same time.

You'll want to plan all that out now before drywall goes up, as you'll have to have framing suitable to support the load of the soffit.
post #136 of 3008
Thread Starter 
koach,
Yeah - that'll be the first thing I tackle. At second look, it appears it's not a hairline crack, but more like the leak came from one point and ran down the wall. The water stained the wall, which made it look like it was a crack. So it might not be as bad as I thought. I'll need to get some better light on it to tell for sure though.

Ted,
I'm hoping I can bounce each wall off you before I meet with the contractor so I can make sure it gets done the way you recommend. I'll put some more details together and get your recommendations.
post #137 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

koach,

Ted,
I'm hoping I can bounce each wall off you before I meet with the contractor so I can make sure it gets done the way you recommend. I'll put some more details together and get your recommendations.

No problem. Better to have these consultations up front so all are on the same page.
post #138 of 3008
Thread Starter 
So what's my plan of attack if I have a false floor in the lower level dropdown that rises about 6" and covers an area on my plan that is 13'8" x 17'9". Do I fill it with insulation? On top of that false floor will be the first row seating riser as well. Since the furnace room, injector and well are all on the other side (and the noisiest thing I'm dealing with)...I'll need to make sure I'm soundproofing the area where the raised floor meets.

I also need to frame around the well pipe and keep it pretty tight. I think I can frame 2x4 inbetween the well pipe and the wall with just enough gap so the 2x4's don't touch the wall and the pipe. Ideally, something could be removable in case a leak or something ever happened right where the pipe enters the foundation. This are is important because my daughter's room is above this area. Perhaps I could have them build a double layer of MDF that screws into the studs and would then be removable for access. Then the dryall meets up with the MDF.



My other big concern is flooding. This area has flooded before due to a power outage and the sump pump not working during heavy rains. I looked into a generator for the house, but it was super expensive. So I'll probably just invest in some type of battery backup system. But I'm just trying to play worst case...say it does flood. I'm assuming all the wood that gets soaked is pretty much ruined?
post #139 of 3008
I would encourage you to get a second pump in that sump pump crock in the ground. Battery operated with a deep cycle marine battery and alarm.

Zoeller makes good stuff.
post #140 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post


My other big concern is flooding. This area has flooded before due to a power outage and the sump pump not working during heavy rains. I looked into a generator for the house, but it was super expensive. So I'll probably just invest in some type of battery backup system. But I'm just trying to play worst case...say it does flood. I'm assuming all the wood that gets soaked is pretty much ruined?

If you just want backup for your sump, you can do it pretty cheaply if you don't mind manually starting up the generator.

I set this up for my aunt who was in the same situation; all she wanted was backup for the sump, cheap...

I installed a small transfer switch like this ($250)

You could actually run a few other things like lighting or a furnace depending on the generator you choose. My aunt wanted the smallest one I could get just for the sump, so I ordered this one. ($400) It's pretty small, light (~30lbs) and pretty quiet (54db). She just puts it outside the garage, plugs the cord into the switch and starts it up.

Of course, if you don't want/can't wire the switch, you could always just get the generator and extension cord... ghetto maybe, but cheap and works fine.
The only caveat to this option is you obviously have to be home and awake for it to work.

Personally I went with an auto switch.

You have another option if you have city water: a water driven backup pump like this one. No power required, no battery to maintain and it is automatic. The most expensive model they have is $500. This is only one manufacturer...
post #141 of 3008
mcascio,

1st I wanted to thank you for all the great renderings. Ironically I had envisioned nearly an identical theatre so it was great to see your drawings.

As for which design to go with, I believe you should stick to your original drawings with the chair rail and panels up top or go floor to ceiling panels and no chair rail.

To the acoustical experts, how much of a performance reduction would having panels up top only have?
post #142 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys for the info. Very helpful. I have been doing a little more research on the backup sump pumps. I'll definitely want to get something in prior to construction begining.

I'm also trying to rework the bathroom plans to make it a bit more roomier. I'll need to get water pipes to that location before I can drywall the theater.

I'm going to have the plumber move the drain out of the theater for the bar sink just outside the room. It'll be worth it down the road in case I ever have problems and need to get to it.

Larry M,
You're welcome. Feel free to use any of the ideas here. I know I've borrowed plenty from others. I haven't heard any experts chime in, but I'm guessing having the panels at ear level would be ideal - but I'm not sure how much of a difference it would really make.
post #143 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Here's my proposed wall framing.



The top and left walls are double stud walls with 1/4" space in between them. (Hope that's enough).

The other two walls are spaced off the concrete foundation a 1/4" and are 2x4 framed walls.

I'm assuming I don't need to use DC-04 clips on the outside framed walls on the double stud walls and really only need them on the interior theater framed wall...can anyone confirm?

Since all walls are decoupled I don't plan to use any furring channels or whisperclips.

I do plan to use DC-04 clips on the ceiling though.

All walls will have DD/GG 5/8".
post #144 of 3008
If using wood, then that 1/4" could easily become 0" if the wood warps even a little.

You would only use the DC-04s on the inside 4 walls.
post #145 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Ted,

Do you recommend a half inch spacing from concrete walls and between the double stud walls?

I feel like I have a shrinking room.
post #146 of 3008
Generally an inch, but 1/2" could (not guaranteed) work.
post #147 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Generally an inch, but 1/2" could (not guaranteed) work.


Hi Ted,

Are you saying that if I don't space the double stud walls an inch apart, the sound proofing may not work?
post #148 of 3008
If we were talking about steel studs, we wouldn't be talking about this

The issue is wood warping. All wood studs warp to some degree. If the wood warps sufficiently so as to provide contact with the next wall or studs, then you've coupled the framing. 1/2" is easily within the stud warp range.
post #149 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

If we were talking about steel studs, we wouldn't be talking about this

The issue is wood warping. All wood studs warp to some degree. If the wood warps sufficiently so as to provide contact with the next wall or studs, then you've coupled the framing. 1/2" is easily within the stud warp range.

I think this is the reason 2x4 are not 2x4, but 1.5x3.5. They most certainly WILL warp that 1/2" to make it a 2x4! And if you have all your lumber delivered rather than selecting it yourself you CAN COUNT on it already being warped!!!
post #150 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

If we were talking about steel studs, we wouldn't be talking about this

The issue is wood warping. All wood studs warp to some degree. If the wood warps sufficiently so as to provide contact with the next wall or studs, then you've coupled the framing. 1/2" is easily within the stud warp range.

Hi Ted,

Few quick Qs and apologies to mcascio for jumping in but perhaps this may help him as well.
1) Wood is preferred over steel studs correct?

2) Along the poured concrete foundation, should there be spacing between the 2x6 top and bottom plate and the concrete walls or can it be installed up against the wall? If yes how much is required? (I see you mentioned 1 inch above for what I believe to be back to back wood framing)

3) In the staggered stud for a new wall scenario; am I putting studs every 8 or 16? i.e. the sheetrock touches a wood stud every 16 when a staggered stud is set every 8 or the sheetrock touches a wood stud every 32 when a staggered stud is set every 16? I've seen you mention 24 OC in other threads before, maybe I am not visualizing it correctly?

Currently I'm planning 2x6 plates with staggered 2x4s, double 5/8 drywall, and of course green glue.
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