The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 5

What do you think about this version (with and without grills) compared to just doing the acoustic panels on top? I got rid of the chair rail. My original renderings were using half round, this version has moulding probably a little closer to the real thing.

koach - is the original still your favorite?

Floyd,
THanks for your vote.

Tedd,
I just create the vision. It's up to the guy with the hammer to figure out how to build it. I'm assuming there would be furring strips that divide up the OC703 on the wall that the grills would attach to.

I'm not sure I'm sold on the grills in this latest design given all the varying lines and levels that now exist. By taking out the chair rail...you kind of lose some sort of reference point and balance to the wall. Just getting a feel for what others think and hopefully generate some more ideas.

I'm hoping to have a plan that allows me the flexibility to choose my favorite design (with chair rail) if I can't notice much difference in the acoustics after doing a field test with the speakers and receiver and OC703 placement. Then this plan B that compromises the look slightly for sound. But either will hopefully be able to be done after the drywall goes up.

The only few differences between my favorite and this latest design is the size of the acoustic panels, chair rail, and the size of the bottom moulding.

IN2Photos,

Yeah - I do believe I've run into that theater before. I like especially like the way they did the ceiling and thought that might make doing a star ceiling a little bit easier because you'd be dealing with much smaller panels and not have to worry about hiding seams.

koach,
I think I'm pretty close now to where I just need to talk to someone on the construction side to verify my insets around the foundation. I have enough concepts that I think I can make decisions later. I just have to make sure that column in the last row doesn't get too close to the back row seats making it difficult to get someone through.

One thought that crossed my mind is that if I go with DD/GG and then start puching holes to mount columns, fabric, trim, etc. Won't that defeat the purpose?

Thanks Ted and 3FingerBrown for your feedback.

That makes sense on the sound proofing. I do plan to create start by building as much of the room as possible with dd/gg. Then add the columns and most of the room soffit afterwards. I have some pipes on the left side of the ceiling that we'll have to build around. So I'm assuming the builder will have to do the soffit and ceiling on that one side at the same time.

I like to grills in some of the renders, in others, it does seem busy. I hadn't seen that theater image you posted 3fingerbrown. I may try something similar.


schmidtwi - I haven't actually set a start date. I have some hvac stuff that needs to happen before I can begin. I'll also need to determine whether I should treat the walls with DryLok or not. I know I have a little crack near the corner that a little water seaped through last year when we had extremely heavy rains. I'll need to modify my landscaping outside which will help, but want to make sure it doesn't get in the theater at all costs. As soon as I have all my future proofing plans thought out to the point I can instruct the contractor on what to do, I'll be on it. The good thing is I probably don't have the time or skills to do the work myself. So it should go fairly quickly as long as I don't hold things up.

koach,
Yeah - that'll be the first thing I tackle. At second look, it appears it's not a hairline crack, but more like the leak came from one point and ran down the wall. The water stained the wall, which made it look like it was a crack. So it might not be as bad as I thought. I'll need to get some better light on it to tell for sure though.

Ted,
I'm hoping I can bounce each wall off you before I meet with the contractor so I can make sure it gets done the way you recommend. I'll put some more details together and get your recommendations.

So what's my plan of attack if I have a false floor in the lower level dropdown that rises about 6" and covers an area on my plan that is 13'8" x 17'9". Do I fill it with insulation? On top of that false floor will be the first row seating riser as well. Since the furnace room, injector and well are all on the other side (and the noisiest thing I'm dealing with)...I'll need to make sure I'm soundproofing the area where the raised floor meets.

I also need to frame around the well pipe and keep it pretty tight. I think I can frame 2x4 inbetween the well pipe and the wall with just enough gap so the 2x4's don't touch the wall and the pipe. Ideally, something could be removable in case a leak or something ever happened right where the pipe enters the foundation. This are is important because my daughter's room is above this area. Perhaps I could have them build a double layer of MDF that screws into the studs and would then be removable for access. Then the dryall meets up with the MDF.



My other big concern is flooding. This area has flooded before due to a power outage and the sump pump not working during heavy rains. I looked into a generator for the house, but it was super expensive. So I'll probably just invest in some type of battery backup system. But I'm just trying to play worst case...say it does flood. I'm assuming all the wood that gets soaked is pretty much ruined?

Thanks guys for the info. Very helpful. I have been doing a little more research on the backup sump pumps. I'll definitely want to get something in prior to construction begining.

I'm also trying to rework the bathroom plans to make it a bit more roomier. I'll need to get water pipes to that location before I can drywall the theater.

I'm going to have the plumber move the drain out of the theater for the bar sink just outside the room. It'll be worth it down the road in case I ever have problems and need to get to it.

Larry M,
You're welcome. Feel free to use any of the ideas here. I know I've borrowed plenty from others. I haven't heard any experts chime in, but I'm guessing having the panels at ear level would be ideal - but I'm not sure how much of a difference it would really make.

Here's my proposed wall framing.



The top and left walls are double stud walls with 1/4" space in between them. (Hope that's enough).

The other two walls are spaced off the concrete foundation a 1/4" and are 2x4 framed walls.

I'm assuming I don't need to use DC-04 clips on the outside framed walls on the double stud walls and really only need them on the interior theater framed wall...can anyone confirm?

Since all walls are decoupled I don't plan to use any furring channels or whisperclips.

I do plan to use DC-04 clips on the ceiling though.

All walls will have DD/GG 5/8".

Ted,

Do you recommend a half inch spacing from concrete walls and between the double stud walls?

I feel like I have a shrinking room.

Hi Ted,

Are you saying that if I don't space the double stud walls an inch apart, the sound proofing may not work?