The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 44

Thanks Bud. I ended up using 1" fine thread screws to make sure they didn't go all the way through.

Any one know if these double roller catches would be better to use for the front cabinet doors instead of magnets knowing the subs will be behind them?
http://www.homedepot.com/Kitchen-Cab...&storeId=10051

Thanks guys. I'll go the magnet route.

I was able to get both corner cabinets attached to the walls using a 2x4 and a 4x4 post on the room interior side.

Thanks guys.


As you mentioned, the Onkyo is only capable of 9.2. I'll be switching between the highs and wides to see which combo I like best and then eventually will have to upgrade to an 11.2 receiver. I've got extra speaker wires ran to even go higher than 11.2 fortunately. So I should have plenty of options when 16.8 comes around.

I have a separate amp (XPA-5), but AFAIK, the Onkyo will only produce sound for up to 9.2. Am I wrong?

Thanks for the info. I thought Denon was the only 11.2 player at this time.

I do have my Onkyo setup in my Great Room. I wasn't however aware of the problems you mentioned. AFAIK, it's been working as expected so maybe I'm a lucky one...or an unlucky one if it ends up breaking after warranty.

I thought the roller clips would have been better than magnets since they lock in. I guess either option should work well. And the rubber pads are a good idea in both cases too.

I got a start on the top of the center cabinet. I decided to use 3/4" MDF. Like the oak, I'll put a base shoe underneath it to add some meat to the front. Then I plan to wrap it with a dark fabric. The base shoe will give me a nice way to hide staples, glue and the edge of the darkening matrial.

I needed a 12'6" piece so I could trace the front of the stage curve so I connected two pieces together with the Kreg and glue. I may make a 2' section in the middle of the top removable so I can get a sub in/out easier. I think the darkening material will hide the seam well.

I probably won't use any type of wall plates for the cables on the back wall. I'll just terminate them and connect directly to the speakers or subs. They'll be hidden from site. Although I still need to develop a plan to mount the speakers on the back wall. So if the opportunity arises and I have some framing there, I might opt for a wall plate.

I currently only have one sub. So the current plan will be to put it directly in the center of the room under the front cabinet. I'll do a walk test first to see if that is a good spot for it. When I add a 2nd sub, I'll probably set it in the back center of the room to keep them both centered to the room. If I end up going with four subs, they'll end up going in the four corners of the room.

I traced my cut lines from the front stage for the top of my front wall cabinet.


Then using the jig saw, I cut along the curve.


I'll be mirrioring this for the bottom portion of the cabinet as well. It just won't be quite as deep.

I made some progress on the bottom portion of the front wall cabinet.
I used the top curve to trace the bottom section. I plan to attach a 1x2 maple to the front for a finished edge. The top will have a couple inch over hang.



After tracing the curve, I used the jigsaw and just cut near the line leaving about an 1/8".

Then I used a router with a flush trim bit to cut it down.

Just stacked the two layers of MDF and used a pencil. The initial arc was traced from the front stage.

Thanks. I would have to agree with you on the patience part. To have theater chairs sitting in a box for six years and the D-Box on a shelf...takes a lot of discipline.

Here are some pictures from yesterdays work on the front wall cabinetry.

I started by routing an 1/8" round over on the cabinet top. This will allow the fabric to rollover nicely when I wrap it. I might bump it up to a 1/4" though.


Then I routed the edge of my 1x2 Maple that will be showing on the room side. Next I used the Kreg Jig and marked areas where I thought I could place screws and avoid the supports that will go inbetween the cabinet doors.

I was able to use the bottom shelf of the cabinet as a perfect way to wrap the 1x2 onto the larger top. In the picture below, everything is flipped upside down. So the top layer is actually the bottom side of the bottom of the cabinet. And the 3/4" MDF below that is the under side of the cabinet top.


I used 1" coarse threads to screw into the 3/4" mdf.


I extended the 1x2 over the edge. Then I just have to flip it over and cut off the extra with a jig saw flush to the mdf.


Not sure what best practice is, but any joints along the curves I've been cutting at a 30 degree angle. I had to use two 1x2's in order to make the full 12'+ curve. They seem to glue nicely together at that angle. I also make sure I cut both pieces while the saw is set at that angle before readjusting the saw.


Here's the routed edge of the maple.


After the glue dried, I started brad nailing and attaching the base shoe to the cabinet top under side edge. There's a nice little gap between the shoe and 1x2 for me to brad nail, staple or glue the fabric and have it hidden from view.


Here's a side profile of the top upside down. Remember, that top layer of MDF is the bottom and not attached aside from the clamps as a guide.


Here are both pieces assembled.


Today, I'll be attaching a 1x2 to the front of the base of the cabinet arch made of MDF. I've predrilled all the Kreg holes already.

Guys. Looking for some input on the front wall cabinet doors.

Is it critical that the cabinet door rails and stiles be the same size?

I'm using a 1x2 divider between the cabinet doors so I'll have a place to install the hinges. This adds more meat in between the doors than my initial plan which was only a 3/4" divider.

Would it be bad for me to use 1x2's on the stiles (vertical) and then 1x3's on the rail (horizontal) of the cabinet door?

I'd have to render it first, but I think ripping a 2.5" board down to 2" would be better for the rail and the stiles. But I just haven't ever been able to get perfectly straight rips with my borrowed table saw. Not sure if it's the saw, the blade, material or just me. So I'm preferring to use factory edges to ensure a nice tight fit.

See here's an illustration of both options:



And the final renders of both options.

OPTION A




OPTION B





I think using 1x2's all the way around wouldn't provide enough reveal compared to the moulding I'm using on the inside of the cabinet doors.

Any thoughts?