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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 46

post #1351 of 3008
http://www.lovehandles.uk.com/fingertip-design-ftd3015-hidden-finger-pull-handle.html


I've seen these on this side of the ocean. (Home Depot or Lowes?) You could route a slot on top of the door and install. Be pretty discrete under the lip mounted that way. If they're not available in black, they could be sanded and spray painted black.

Richelieu has black magnetic catches. Home Depot Stores in Canada have them.
LL
post #1352 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Anyone know of a source for black magnet catches? The big box stores seem to only carry brown.

Also looking for an inexpensive discrete black finger pull. I'd rather not put knobs on the cabinet doors.

Mario - you don't need a black magnetic catch AND a finger pull. Just use a push-button magnetic latch. If the door is closed all you have to do is push on the door frame, release and the door will pop right open. To close all you have to do is shut it against the latch until it clicks. Simple, elegant, easy and completely hidden.

Before you get too far on the hinges . . . .why not use a European style hidden hinge. They have inexpensive plastic jigs that make precision install easy and you won't even have the 1950s style door hinge exposed. Not only do they swing fully wide open, but also have a quick release where you can completely remove the door front in seconds and reinstall in seconds as fell.

You will just need to buy a forstner bit to install the European hinges.

And here is just one of many, many different examples of push-lock magnetic latches: http://www.sugatsune.com/products/Pr...ODUCTID=PKL-07

and the preferred latch: http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalo...p?p_ref=259857

As an fyi - you mount the magnetic latch to the cabinet and only the metal plate to your door.
post #1353 of 3008
A couple more links for you of black magnetic latches:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CIoBEPMCMAA

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-13615-Ma.../dp/B000FKF1RC

http://woodworkers-hardware.amazonwe...source=froogle

This European hinge allows the door to swing a full 170 degrees: http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Fa...d_sim_sbs_hi_2

And a standard European hinge. No need to paint because it will be completely hidden: http://www.amazon.com/Laury-Laurey-O.../dp/B0011WEIT0

Here is the cheap drilling jig: http://www.amazon.com/DrillRite-35mm...9582540&sr=1-1

And a more expensive one that will work with your router: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Concea...9582540&sr=1-6

And a bit pricier complete kit: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Multi-...9582540&sr=1-8

Good luck!
post #1354 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys for all the great links and feedback. Gotta love this forum.

TMcG,

I would have gone with the European hinges, but I didn't want to deal with the mortising. It doesn't look that difficult with the jigs you linked to though.
I already have in hand all the hinges so I think I'm going to just continue rolling down the planned path. That way I don't loose time to either ordering or running around just to find all the items I'll need. I actually don't mind the hinges showing. Given they are pretty low profile and black. They'll pretty much blend in once everything is painted.

I love the push magnet idea to prevent having a finger pull like Tedd posted. Although thanks Tedd. That's what I had in mind. I was going to put them at the top of the cabinet where the shadows will prevent anyone from even knowing they exist.
The only problem with the push magnet catch is I don't have enough space on my 1x2 dividers to mount then. So I'd have to get a bit creative and length the area where it mounts to. I could also just mount it on the top and add a 1.5" board to meet up with the door. So it's doable. Any chance these will rattle though compared to my current method?
post #1355 of 3008
All kinds of black latches here:
http://www.usfutaba.com/Product-Rang...c-Push-Latches

Some latches have shallow mounting and extend without support.
post #1356 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Thanks guys for all the great links and feedback. Gotta love this forum.

TMcG,

I would have gone with the European hinges, but I didn't want to deal with the mortising. It doesn't look that difficult with the jigs you linked to though.
I already have in hand all the hinges so I think I'm going to just continue rolling down the planned path. That way I don't loose time to either ordering or running around just to find all the items I'll need. I actually don't mind the hinges showing. Given they are pretty low profile and black. They'll pretty much blend in once everything is painted.

I love the push magnet idea to prevent having a finger pull like Tedd posted. Although thanks Tedd. That's what I had in mind. I was going to put them at the top of the cabinet where the shadows will prevent anyone from even knowing they exist.
The only problem with the push magnet catch is I don't have enough space on my 1x2 dividers to mount then. So I'd have to get a bit creative and length the area where it mounts to. I could also just mount it on the top and add a 1.5" board to meet up with the door. So it's doable. Any chance these will rattle though compared to my current method?

Hey Mario. I have never experienced any rattles with these magnetic latches. I would have two suggestions for you - 1. Go with the double magnetic latch as in Ted's link - this will immediately double your holding power to about 7 pounds - which is quite a bit for rock solid closure. 2. Mount the magnetic latch on the underside of the top and not your thin side stiles. From your photographs it seems fairly easy to pack out the underside of your horizontal top shelf with some simple blocking to give you a hidden and fixed mounting point for the magnetic latch.

Keep up the great work - I always enjoy seeing the fantastic progress and great documentation on your build thread. I'll definitely be hitting YOU up for some tips finish carpentry tips when I get to that stage myself.
post #1357 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

What is a good table saw?

My coworker sent me one that was like $2k and ran off 240v. Just a full head of hair above my budget

How much you looking to spend? $100 is not going to do it, $400-$500 is probably the starting point for something on a decent entry level contractor type table saw, like this Ridgid R4512 from Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...&storeId=10051

Move up to $1000, and that should get into the start of some really good affordable saws. There is a lot of brands that make good saws, even some of the imports from places like Grizzly have some decent saws. For example Grizzly has this 110/220v 2hp "Hybrid" with cast iron table & wings for $795 plus $99 for shipping.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-H...Series-/G0715P

These "Hybrid" saws are something that quite a few manufacturers are offering now, they are a cross between a contractor and a cabinet table saw.


Also, consider something like a used Delta saw. And some of the upper end of the Sears Craftsman table saws are pretty good also.


Although these reviews are old, and some of the saws are no longer available. You still may find them helpful.

http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/indus...01503&artnum=1

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/01...s-jet-and-more
post #1358 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys for the links. I'm going to check them out.

I finished constructing all the center cabinet doors today. All my divider marks that I pulled from the 3D model I built before hand was pretty much spot-on.

Here are some pics:






post #1359 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I finished constructing all the center cabinet doors today.

Wow! Just wow... : )
post #1360 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I finished constructing all the center cabinet doors today. All my divider marks that I pulled from the 3D model I built before hand was pretty much spot-on.

OMG, That is looking so AWESOME!!!!!
post #1361 of 3008
I think Mario is tricking us using his renders again!!!


Nice looking wood work!
post #1362 of 3008
Ordering a Bosch 1617 router tomorrow.

Might as well keep ordering tools while I wait for the town to approve my plans...going on 3 weeks tomorrow
post #1363 of 3008
"The Theater That Kreg Built"

You are making some nice progress and it looks awesome. Are you sure you don't have "woodworker" somewhere on your business card?
post #1364 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys. It turned out much better than I could have ever hoped.
post #1365 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

I think Mario is tricking us using his renders again!!!


Nice looking wood work!

That would be funny if after all of this I revealed it was all just 3D and Photoshop. But that reminded me to try to blend the worlds together again to see how they looked. Here's another composition at this stage of the game.

post #1366 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Ordering a Bosch 1617 router tomorrow.

Might as well keep ordering tools while I wait for the town to approve my plans...going on 3 weeks tomorrow

Larry. You are going to have some nice new toys to play with!
post #1367 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

"The Theater That Kreg Built"

You are making some nice progress and it looks awesome. Are you sure you don't have "woodworker" somewhere on your business card?

It's been a great learning experience. Although, I never thought my first type of cabinetry work would be doing an 18' foot wide entertainment center with a radius.
post #1368 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

That would be funny if after all of this I revealed it was all just 3D and Photoshop. But that reminded me to try to blend the worlds together again to see how they looked. Here's another composition at this stage of the game.

Now I love this picture.... at the end of this endeavor you should create a little sequence of stills by morphing from rendering through construction and back to completion. My money is that the viewer will not being able to spot the difference between start and finish Very well done.
post #1369 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

It's been a great learning experience. Although, I never thought my first type of cabinetry work would be doing an 18' foot wide entertainment center with a radius.

A radius scares me, does Kreg make a radius jig
post #1370 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnla View Post

How much you looking to spend? $100 is not going to do it, $400-$500 is probably the starting point for something on a decent entry level contractor type table saw, like this Ridgid R4512 from Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...&storeId=10051

Move up to $1000, and that should get into the start of some really good affordable saws. There is a lot of brands that make good saws, even some of the imports from places like Grizzly have some decent saws. For example Grizzly has this 110/220v 2hp "Hybrid" with cast iron table & wings for $795 plus $99 for shipping.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-H...Series-/G0715P

Also, consider something like a used Delta saw. And some of the upper end of the Sears Craftsman table saws are pretty good also.

I pretty much agree with everything John said. The Ridgid contractor saw from Home Depot is a nice saw, especially at its price point.

I generally advise people to stay away from portable saws (like the DeWalt or the Bosch) unless they actually need to haul the saw from one job site to another. If the saw is going to stay in your basement or garage, a saw like the Ridgid 4512 is a MUCH better tool.

Used tools can be a great way to save money. For your first saw, it's safest to stick to brands that are of a reliably good quality. For instance, Delta has made consistently good stuff for decades (but avoid Delta Shopmaster). All of the contractors saws sold by Ridgid have been good tools. Craftsman and Grizzly, on the other hand, have sold a few very nice saws and a whole bunch of saws that were not so nice. Buying a used Craftsman or Grizzly saw really requires that you be able to tell the good from the rest. Easier and safer to stick with brands that are consistently good.

Just for kicks, I checked my local Craigslist the other day. There was a Delta contractor saw with a nice fence and a mobile base for under $400, although it was a couple of hours away. There was also a Ridgid contractor saw with a mobile base for $400. The Delta looked like a bargain, and the Ridgid would have been a nice saw with a little dickering.

Quote:


I don't have any experience with track saws. But they look like they might be a good alternative to a table saw.

I have both. Track saws are great for breaking down sheet goods (plywood & MDF) and can be very accurate if you're careful with your layout. Track saws are not as useful for cutting solid wood. To use a track saw on solid wood, you must start with a workpiece that's wide enough that you can rest the track on it, which means it is difficult and dangerous to cut anything narrower than about 6". It is possible to make repetitive cuts with a track saw but doing so is time consuming. In general, a table saw is a much more versatile tool. If I could only have one, I would take the table saw in a heart beat.
post #1371 of 3008
Mario,

The cabinet doors turned out great! Nice work!

I love it when you blend one of your renders with an "as built" photo. It is so cool to see how precisely your build matches the model.

Quote:


Here's the moulding I'll be using on the inside frame. Only the 3/4" edge and 1/4" lip of the moulding touches the cabinet. I'm wondering if that's enough surface to attach the moulding or do I need to build something behind as well?

The 3/4"-to-3/4" glue joint will be more than strong enough. I wouldn't worry about adding any structure just to secure the moulding.
post #1372 of 3008
Just love those blended compositions of renderings and actual construction. Very cool.
post #1373 of 3008
Looking fantastic Mario. You should feel really proud of the quality job you are doing and for tackling it. It's going to look great when it's all said and done. I'm sure you are starting to get that "almost there" feeling, and then you start thinking " I've still got this, this, that, that, then that...". At least that's where I'm at! Hang in there!
post #1374 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

Mario,

The cabinet doors turned out great! Nice work!

I love it when you blend one of your renders with an "as built" photo. It is so cool to see how precisely your build matches the model.



The 3/4"-to-3/4" glue joint will be more than strong enough. I wouldn't worry about adding any structure just to secure the moulding.

Thanks. I just wish everything was straight and square like it is in 3D.

I'm gonna give it a shot on one of the smaller doors first. The backing was nice on the side columns for forcing the moulding into position when it was a bit of a struggle by shooting a brad nail through it.
post #1375 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Now I love this picture.... at the end of this endeavor you should create a little sequence of stills by morphing from rendering through construction and back to completion. My money is that the viewer will not being able to spot the difference between start and finish Very well done.

Thanks Moggie. That would be pretty cool.
post #1376 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTopDown View Post

Looking fantastic Mario. You should feel really proud of the quality job you are doing and for tackling it. It's going to look great when it's all said and done. I'm sure you are starting to get that "almost there" feeling, and then you start thinking " I've still got this, this, that, that, then that...". At least that's where I'm at! Hang in there!

I'm glad I did decide to tackle it. I feel much more confident in doing other things around the house as well. I just repaired our ice maker this past weekend. I probably saved several hundred dollars doing it myself with about $60 in parts.

You're right about that. Everytime my friends ask me it seems like I always seem to answer two months. Well that was 8 months ago.

The fabric frames, door, painting and massive amount of trim work is left to do. I'm guessing, but I'd have to say there's probably 100+ hours of moulding/trim work to do given all the jots in/out because of the columns.
post #1377 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I finished one of the corner cabinet double doors. I decided to add a divider in between the doors for several reasons.
1) This would give me room to correct the doors individually
2) Add's a nice design element and custom look
3) Should help keep the opening square
4) I can also use it to mount the magnetic push latch for both top/bottom doors
5) I may use it later to mount some 3/4" moulding to divide the doors visually like I've done with the other side columns

Only downside is the opening was divided. But there's still plenty of room to get a sub under it.

I had a heck of a time getting straight boards, especially for the big door. I had to pick through quite a bit and ended up with a lot of wasted material that just wasn't usable. I was probably getting one stile or rail per 8' board. I noticed after completion there's still a little skewing to the large cabinet door. Is there anyway to retrain the door if I compress it for a few days or will it always return? My thought was to use a top magnet to pull it in flush with the frame. The moulding will hopefully have a positive effect on the doors when I glue them on.













post #1378 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

The fabric frames, door, painting and massive amount of trim work is left to do. I'm guessing, but I'd have to say there's probably 100+ hours of moulding/trim work to do given all the jots in/out because of the columns.

It will come together for sure. I remember picking up 40 pieces of 16' molding and thinking, "Holy Crap!" I think you've seen my crazy side walls and the multiple layers of trim. So I feel for you on all the ins-and-outs to come. I think you have the same miter saw as I do, which was a God-send in the end. My old single-tilt, non-slide Dewalt would have never cut it (no pun intended).

It is amazing to see it when it's all up though.
post #1379 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I finished one of the corner cabinet double doors. I decided to add a divider in between the doors for several reasons.
1) This would give me room to correct the doors individually
2) Add's a nice design element and custom look
3) Should help keep the opening square
4) I can also use it to mount the magnetic push latch for both top/bottom doors
5) I may use it later to mount some 3/4" moulding to divide the doors visually like I've done with the other side columns

Only downside is the opening was divided. But there's still plenty of room to get a sub under it.

I had a heck of a time getting straight boards, especially for the big door. I had to pick through quite a bit and ended up with a lot of wasted material that just wasn't usable. I was probably getting one stile or rail per 8' board. I noticed after completion there's still a little skewing to the large cabinet door. Is there anyway to retrain the door if I compress it for a few days or will it always return? My thought was to use a top magnet to pull it in flush with the frame. The moulding will hopefully have a positive effect on the doors when I glue them on.

I had the same problem with a 96" door that I built. After cutting, and painting it it developed a warp of about 1/2"/foot. Luckily the concave portion was on the inside. I used my circular saw set very shallow and made kerf cuts about a quarter inch apart. I then filled theses kerfs with epoxy and sandwiched the door with wax paper and one side on my bench and the other with a dead flat piece of plywood and added weight to cure. Since I painted ht doors it was easy to conceal, but it did fix the warp. We will see when the humid summer comes if it has any signs again.
post #1380 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'm glad I did decide to tackle it. I feel much more confident in doing other things around the house as well. I just repaired our ice maker this past weekend. I probably saved several hundred dollars doing it myself with about $60 in parts.

You sure did, my parents GE Monogram ice maker went out and they got a quote of something stupid like $600 to repair...my Dad ended up doing it for $125 worth of parts
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