I experienced a lull due to being sick and jambing my finger.
I managed to finish all the mouldings on the front cabinets. I also finished adding the 3/4" mdf supports in the front center cabinet. I can now sit or stand on it without worry. The temporary 4x4 supports have now been removed.
I also mounted all the magnetic touch latches.
I ran into a bit of a snag where ther chair rail I was planning on wasn't in stock at the lumber yard. I'm hoping they'll be restocking since I centered everything around the 3" chair rail. Going to a 2 5/8" will get me off center a bit.
You know its funny because I wanted to build a screen wall similiar to what you're almost complete with but never thought I could...but following you step by step I think I am going to give it a shot
I read page 1 to see all the renderings of the theater and the last page to see where you've come and I just wanted to say that your theater's plans are absolutely stunning... one of the nicest I have ever seen, and that your craftsmanship seems top notch!
I wish you continued good luck on this monster project!
You know its funny because I wanted to build a screen wall similiar to what you're almost complete with but never thought I could...but following you step by step I think I am going to give it a shot
Great work!
Larry,
It's really not that bad once you break it down into smaller tasks. You get a lot of practice along the way. Starting with the columns was a good primer.
I know you haven't mounted the screen yet, but do you have any tricks up your sleeve for giving you the ability to take the screen on and off?
I'm still not sure yet. I haven't done much research or given too much thought to it. My first idea though is to mount a board on a piano hinge. Then mount the screen to that board.
I'm open to other suggestions.
I still need to figure out how I'm going to mount the speakers behind the screen as well.
I read page 1 to see all the renderings of the theater and the last page to see where you've come and I just wanted to say that your theater's plans are absolutely stunning... one of the nicest I have ever seen, and that your craftsmanship seems top notch!
I wish you continued good luck on this monster project!
Thanks so much. It finally feels like I'm turning the corner and finish line in sight.
So I need to dig back into the paint questions again.
I'm planning on doing Benjamin Moore F215 80 Flat black on the ceiling. But any recommendations for the trim, columns, maple cabinetry and oak steps/bullnose?
Does anyone know if BM has a matching black that isn't Flat? I'm assuming I'd want a satin on everything else?
So I need to dig back into the paint questions again.
I'm planning on doing Benjamin Moore F215 80 Flat black on the ceiling. But any recommendations for the trim, columns, maple cabinetry and oak steps/bullnose?
Does anyone know if BM has a matching black that isn't Flat? I'm assuming I'd want a satin on everything else?
Well since you brought it up. Benjamin Moore F215 80 Flat Black is BM's Canada's line of paint under the Collection name. A similar paint would be what you might find in your local store as Regal N215. Below are some codes that might help you look in the store
So I need to dig back into the paint questions again.
I'm planning on doing Benjamin Moore F215 80 Flat black on the ceiling. But any recommendations for the trim, columns, maple cabinetry and oak steps/bullnose?
Does anyone know if BM has a matching black that isn't Flat? I'm assuming I'd want a satin on everything else?
Are you wanting to use paint, stain or a combination of both? The MDF would obviously be painted, but do you want the front cabinetry / moldings to have the same finished look or to highlight the real wood grain by using a black stain? If you want the absolute best, most consistent finish then I would hire it out to a professional who will spray the cabinetry in place with an enamel primer and finish coat in whatever color and gloss you would like. This is how any high-end custom built-ins are finished.
But if you want to do it yourself (which I definitely don't blame you with all of the hard work you put into the cabinetry), then I would probably stain all the wood details and paint the engineered wood products (such as the MDF). Minwax makes a very nice line of wipe-on products with built-in poly coating in the satin finish you are looking for.
Two words of caution - first, staining will take MUCH longer than simply painting everything. Second, different woods will take stain differently, so use test pieces to experiment with different grits of sandpaper and different lengths of time in letting the stain sit before wiping off. As a novice woodworker I personally found this part the biggest PITA. Hopefully there are some more knowledgeable woodworking folks here on the forum who can add their input to this step.
Theater is looking great! Doesn't seem like you are too far off from carpet, screen and electronics.
I'm no expert, but my thoughts are to use paint on everything. Because I'm using oak, maple, mdf and pine...staining the oak and maple will just make it challenging to match up. The black paint just seems much easier like you mentioned.
I've decided not to try to hide the wood grain.
In terms of finish on everything, do you guys think the Pearl is too shiny?
Larry,
Thanks for the info. Do you know if I should be using a special paint for the stair treads or do I just apply something over the paint to handle the foot traffic?
I'm no expert, but my thoughts are to use paint on everything. Because I'm using oak, maple, mdf and pine...staining the oak and maple will just make it challenging to match up. The black paint just seems much easier like you mentioned.
I've decided not to try to hide the wood grain.
In terms of finish on everything, do you guys think the Pearl is too shiny?
Larry,
Thanks for the info. Do you know if I should be using a special paint for the stair treads or do I just apply something over the paint to handle the foot traffic?
Mario,
Not sure which sheen you should go with, I'm also on the fence for that (I love planning months ahead of time)
I'll probably order a sample of the 3 lowest sheens (which would be Flat, Eggshell, and Pearl) and see what looks the best on some scrap wood with the projector on and off and see which gives me the best overall performance for aesthetics as well as not becoming annoying during bright scenes.
For the floor treads, I would recommend calling 1-888-236-6667 and ask for the product specialist department. The individuals in this department are extremely talented and will guide you to the best product
Thanks for the number Larry. I'll give them a buzz.
I picked up two 4x8 sheets of 1/8" hardboard. I plan on ripping them down to fit where the soffit can lights go. Then I'll need to cutout holes for the cans again. I'm hoping I can just poke a dremel through and follow the metal can housing itself.
Then I'll cut corners for the hardboard at 45's. This will allow me to tuck the GOM fabric underneath and create a nice hard seam where the 45's are joined in the corners.
So I need to dig back into the paint questions again.
I'm planning on doing Benjamin Moore F215 80 Flat black on the ceiling. But any recommendations for the trim, columns, maple cabinetry and oak steps/bullnose?
Does anyone know if BM has a matching black that isn't Flat? I'm assuming I'd want a satin on everything else?
Calling or emailing Benjamin Moore may get you some information from them on what would match up, or maybe even some mix formulas.
But even without that, anyone in the paint department that really knows their way around the paint mixing machine should be able to take the basic colorants from that Benjamin Moore F215 flat black formula, and turn it into a equivalent eggshell, pearl, satin, gloss, semi gloss finish or anything else you would like. It's pretty much just a matter of how much and what type of flattening or gloss agents are added to the basic color mix. Doing stuff like that is done all the time with black automotive paints for engine compartment restorations on collectable cars.
Mario I have to say (and I am sure I said it here before) but your theater is turning out to be one of the nicest, cleanest theaters I have seen on AVS and I have been around here a while. Great work thus far, you should be very proud.
So I need to dig back into the paint questions again.
I'm planning on doing Benjamin Moore F215 80 Flat black on the ceiling. But any recommendations for the trim, columns, maple cabinetry and oak steps/bullnose?
I'm not familiar with BM paint so I have no specific recommendation. Whatever you use, though, it should be made for trim and/or doors, NOT walls. Wall paint never gets hard enough to use on furniture.
I have used this product and was happy with the result:
Mario I have to say (and I am sure I said it here before) but your theater is turning out to be one of the nicest, cleanest theaters I have seen on AVS and I have been around here a while. Great work thus far, you should be very proud.
I'm not familiar with BM paint so I have no specific recommendation. Whatever you use, though, it should be made for trim and/or doors, NOT walls. Wall paint never gets hard enough to use on furniture.
I have used this product and was happy with the result:
I'm glad you mentioned that there is specific paint for trim and doors.
Here's what BM recommended when I called them:
Oak Steps and bull nose
- Sand, prime with Fresh Start Primer 023 tinted black, then apply two coats of black tinted Fresh Floor and Patio Latex Enamel 122 Satin.
MDF and Maple
- Sand then apply two coats of tinted black Aura in egg shell finish
When I stopped in the Benjamin Moore supplier, he thought I might be able to use the Floor and Patio Latex Enamel on the MDF and Maple too to make sure they all end up with same color and finish. He was going to call BM in the morning to see if that would work. Anyone else have thoughts on that? You would think if it's durable enough to walk on, you could also apply it to the columns and cabinets.
I'm glad you mentioned that there is specific paint for trim and doors.
BMs most popular trim paints are Satin Impervo and Advance. However I am not in front of my product catelog and don't know if either come in a flat finish which I believe is important for a theater
BMs most popular trim paints are Satin Impervo and Advance. However I am not in front of my product catelog and don't know if either come in a flat finish which I believe is important for a theater
Larry,
I'm in a bit of a pickle. The stairs need to be painted with the Floor and Patio which only comes in the Satin. This sits right next to the Maple on the stage. So I'm not sure how the satin and flat finish will look next to each other.
I'm also not sure I'd want to paint all the material with a flat finish just because if someone brushes up against it - I'm pretty sure you would be able to tell.
I've got a quart of BM matte black from the paint store on order that I'll test. I'll also test out the Floor and Patio along with the N215 80 Flat on some material to see how it looks.
You can always dull the gloss of a finish by abrading it. You could paint everything with a satin sheen, for example, and if the reflections are too distracting, you could rub the offending surfaces with a Scotchbrite-type pad to cut back the sheen. It would be time consuming to do over a large area, but you could do it if you wanted to. This would let you paint most surfaces with a single product and selectively cut back the sheen only on the surfaces that produce bad reflections.
I'm in a bit of a pickle. The stairs need to be painted with the Floor and Patio which only comes in the Satin. This sits right next to the Maple on the stage. So I'm not sure how the satin and flat finish will look next to each other.
I'm also not sure I'd want to paint all the material with a flat finish just because if someone brushes up against it - I'm pretty sure you would be able to tell.
I've got a quart of BM matte black from the paint store on order that I'll test. I'll also test out the Floor and Patio along with the N215 80 Flat on some material to see how it looks.
I've been thinking about this; satin and flat aren't too far apart, plus being that the flat is on a vertical surface vs. the satin being on a horizontal surface it may not be too noticable. Best is what you're doing and testing small samples.
In my case I plan on carpet on my stage so that makes my situation easy.
You can always dull the gloss of a finish by abrading it. You could paint everything with a satin sheen, for example, and if the reflections are too distracting, you could rub the offending surfaces with a Scotchbrite-type pad to cut back the sheen. It would be time consuming to do over a large area, but you could do it if you wanted to. This would let you paint most surfaces with a single product and selectively cut back the sheen only on the surfaces that produce bad reflections.
Thanks for the tip. I'd like to avoid this though due to all the moulding. It would be a challenge to sand in all those nooks.