The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 50

I really like the Masland carpet in my renderings but the quote I got was pretty crazy ($3100 for carpet and pad installed). Is it me or does this price seem pretty high? I may look at some other options just to see the price difference.

Thanks WVU Mountaineers.

Steal away.

I started priming a sample MDF yesterday and am applying three different paints this morning so I can determine which route to go. I also made a corner out of MDF so I can do a test treatment on that. I sanded the edges smooth to 220 with my orbital sander then applied two coats of sanding sealer to the edges. Then sanded smooth again with a 320 sanding sponge block.

My question is how easy is it to remove the sanding sealer that I just applied with the 320 sanding block?

While waiting for the primer coats to dry, I tackled the 4 gang outlet in the room. It was already recessed about 3/4" in to the wall before I add another 3/4" from the fabric panel. I hate seeing crooked switches in the wall - especially when you have 4 gangs...so I used a dremel to cut a 4 gang box in half then built a frame to fit it into and attach to the wall. This will also allow me to attach the GOM fabric around.

Larry,
I thought it looked pretty good as a thumbnail until I rendered it. It looks like it has a lot more gold than black.

I have the following:
* Benjamin Moore Ultra Base N215 Acrylic Flat Black [CEILING]
* Benjamin Moore Regal N221 Acrylic Matte Finish Black [Possibly MDF, Moulding & Maple Cabinets]
* Benjamin Moore Floor & Patio Latex Floor & Patio Enamel tinted black [OAK Stage, Bullnose, Steps]

For Primers:
* Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Alkyd All Purpose Primer 024 [OAK Stage, Bullnose, Steps]
* Zinsser BIN Primer [All MDF Surfaces and Possibly Pine Moulding, Maple Cabinets]

Wow. $72/yard. That's insane. Maybe my quote wasn't so bad after all.

Thanks for taking the time to read through it all. I'm glad you were able to pull some helpful info from the thread.

Most will probaby tell you the darker the better. But at the same time, I think the sheen that you use will also make a big difference. If it's glossy it will reflect more light.

I finally finished the lower MDF wall below the Patch panel.

I mounted the thermostat temp sensor right below the chair rail. I wanted to flush mount it so it wouldn't be noticable after painting it.

I drilled a recessed hole using a 3/4" paddle bit. I ended up using a triangle to make sure my drill was going perpendicular to the MDF. Otherwise the sensor wouldn't sit flush.


Then another hole with the drill bit.


It fits snugly in after the test fit.


I screwed in the MDF and put liquid nails on the studs behind it. Rewired the electrical outlet and pulled the subwoofer cable into the gang box.


I started sanding the corners of all the columns as well. It was a dust storm in the room but the mask I wore helped.

I finished sanding smooth all the bare MDF edges on the columns and corners down to 220.



Now I just need to take a sanding sponge and take out the sharp edge on all the corners before applying two coats of sanding sealer.

I built the corner pine cap using the Kreg. Now I'll just need to round the edges with a sanding sponge and fill the hairline crack where the pieces are joined.







I feel like with the products I'm using I can avoid the sanding sealer on the edges of the MDF. After sanding smooth, then applying Zinsser MH Ready Patch (to fill the joint cracks), then applying Zinsser BIN Primer and sanding...I don't think the paint will have any problem adhering to the MDF.

I actually asked my father-in-law about spraying, but he didn't think the type of paint we are using would work well through the sprayer.

On top of that, the upper ceiling has a finish coat already - not that we couldn't add one more coat to it if it saved a bunch of time.

Yeah - I think the key is sanding that bare edge smooth so it's as smooth as the uncut MDF face. I'm no professional though.

I ran into a little delay with my pine corner cap on the wall. I noticed it didn't seem to be straight and the wall looked like it was leaning into the room. Sure enough, a level showed it wasn't quite straight. So I had to break away some of the corner bead and shave the drywall down towards the top of the wall to get it straight. I probably could have left it, but I know it would bother me everytime I looked at it.



All the columns have been skimmed with the MH Ready Patch to fill in the joints. Now I just need to sand them down again.

I ordered all 32 yards of my Red Claret Accent FR701 from Fabricmate tonight. It looks like they raised their prices 5% from the last time I ordered. But with the AVS discount I actually ended up saving 5% overall from the last time. So not a bad deal.

I finally made some decent progress this weekend. My final push before starting on the crown moulding and few other odds and ends.

I finished all the corner caps and attached them to the drywall. I patched all the visible screw holes and sanded smooth. Then gave a second coat of the Zinsser MH Ready Patch. Supposedly, it falls somewhere in the middle of drywall compound and bondo. I guess it's similar to a vinyl compound. Sanded really easily and is supposed to get rock hard.




Then it was time to finish leveling and installing the lower front MDF walls I had built a couple weeks ago. I used a laser level shot across the wall to make sure the two MDF panels lined up. I used a mixture of green glue and liquid nails. Then screwed where the chair rail and baseboard would go. Then a few 18 ga finish nails in the center.


Next it was time to make final cuts to my bullnose and stair tread. I had orginally just made them flush with the wall. But I wanted to make it easier on myself when installing the baseboard to prevent having to cut around the rounded out bullnose. So I cut them the depth of the baseboard. Then the baseboard can just run straight through vertically.




In the case of the stair tread, I just notched it out to squeeze the 3/4" MDF and baseboard.


On the first level bullnose, once I had it where I wanted it, I screwed in some blocks to keep it from moving left and right. That way when I glued it down, I didn't have to guess where to put it.


I used this Loctite to attach the oak to the OSB.






I would get once piece glued down loosely and then finish gluing any biscuit joints.


I then used my 18 ga finish nailer to attach the backside of the bullnose at about 140 psi. I only had two nails that didn't go as plan and broke a little of the bottom side of the oak off. It was because I shot the nail a little too low and just chipped off the very bottom edge. I practiced a few times on some scraps before doing it...given all the work that went into the oak portion of this project. I varied the spacing around 6 - 12". Then in some case shot a few straight down on the tops of the board if I felt it need it. I think a little puddy and primer will cover the small hole.





And the finished project.