The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 51

Hi Iusteve,

I made them. I used a 1/2" x 3/4" base shoe on the underside. It actually was pretty easy to do using a brad nailer and glue. Since mine was curved, it was impossible to purchase. But there should be some straight options available at the big box stores.

Larry,

Invest in some ear plugs with a string on them so you'll always have them around your neck and won't have an excuse for not putting them in. I didn't get mine until half way through the project. You feel better at the end of the day unless you really don't want to hear your significant other.

Wow - your framing is moving right along.

I still have a few tubes of Liquid Nails left from the basement project so I'm slowly getting rid of it all. I honestly don't know enough to compare them against the loctite since I haven't worked with both enough.

But the loctite did do a great job of securing the bullnose.

Thanks nickbuol,

I'm hoping with the pics and detailed description of products I'm posting that it will encourage other beginners like myself to take on the task. Knowing the tools, products and a few snapshots of the progress goes a long way for a novice to achieve similar results.

Once you sand the edges with an orbital sander it becomes really tough to see the seam.

I believe I posted more pictures if you look back around Jan 8th, 2012 in my thread.

But here's a picture that you can see the brad nails and base shoe on the underside being attached.


Before attaching, run some wood glue on the base shoe or stock itself...then run your finger over the glue to smooth it out and cover the entire surface before brad nailing.

The 3/4" side is attached to the oak stock.

I'm getting closer to needing to do something with the slab door I bought 6 - 8 months ago. A bit premature to say the least.

I think I'll use the the same moulding that I use inbetween the columns on the door to give it that paneled look.

I didn't want to see the bare 2x4 when I opened the Patch Panel doors. So I primed and painted some 1x4's black to line the inside of the cabinet.





I also built and primed the fabric frame that surrounds the cabinet door. This was probably one of the more frustrating pieces of the project because nothing was square in that corner including the maple 1x3's I used. But with a lot of trimming around the edges with my flush bit I think I have enough space for the fabric to surround it.

The GOM claret accent fabric came in today so I may get a chance to wrap it sooner than later. I plan to keep the edges of my frames sharp (no bevel) so that should save me some time. I'll probably quickly sand the corners to prevent the fabric from tearing. If anyone has tips on how to handle the inside edges of wrapping my patch panel frame I'm open to ideas. I assume I just need to slit the fabric in the corner at an angle and then wrap the fabric around and staple.




The door I still need to build will fit in the opening and look like the front wall cabinets.

That is correct.

I've got a detailed photos and step-by-step instructions of how I did it here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post21463004

Hi Larry,

Yeah. I may have broken the technology theater construction rule twice by buying not one but "two" different projectors before the theater was finished because the projector was already outdated.

I think I'm at a bit of an advantage having the theater foyer in between the sets of doors. The theater door will be the same on both sides in black. The other foyer door is a six panel door matching the rest of the basement. It will be white on one side and black on the theater foyer side.

This actually transitions nicely into a sound proofing / decoupling question. When I frame the door it obviously will need to be attached between the double stud walls that I have an inch space in. By doing this I assume I'm coupling the two walls together. Is this just par for the course and I shouldn't worry about it?

Here's an illustration to show the dimensions that may prove helpful.
I initially was trying to rip Oak down to 3/4" x 3/4" after routing it with the 1/2" rounder over. But was unsuccessful in getting a straight cut. I'm so glad I went the base shoe route since it saved a ton of time. If you need to and want more height on the front edge, you could attach a small 3/4" stock board first, then attach the 1/2" side to the underside of the step.

It makes sense, but I would think it would be pretty difficult to get the separate sections to be aligned nicely given they would be attached to different 2x4's. I guess that's where shimming comes in.

In my case, I'm using the Sound Proofing Company door seals. So I'd have to lay this out in 3D to see where the door seam lands and the door seals.

Do any threads or links come to mind where someone has done this? I just don't remember this being done or even talked about.

Hopefully Ted from the Sound Proofing Company can chime in.

Thanks Ted.

Yeah - I just though I'd seen so many theater threads building bigger jambs when really you are just building a second one separate from the door. This actually makes it easier in some respects.

You bet.

Here are the dimensions of the taller columns I made.

That is correct.

I think I bought a set of 4 round over bits at Menards. Not sure what I paid, but I think it was about $12-15 for the set. It was their Tool Shop brand.

I think a 1/2" would be better on your feet. Plus it matches the roundover on the factory base shoe.