The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 54

I worked till about 2am last night in the theater. I finished installing all of the lower side column mouldings.

I only had three different moulding sizes to cut. So I used some scrap wood clamped to the fence to act as a stop which makes getting accurate cuts a breeze.

Here's the larger cut.


To cut the smaller pieces, I just used another block cut to size that I could easily add remove to the fence allowing me to switch freely between the two sizes without reclamping.



Next, I remarked my column sides where the moulding will be installed. I was fortunate enough to use 2" from the front of the column which made it pretty easy to just flush my 2" square against the face and trace my line.



I made everything square off the face of the column and didn't worry about breaking out a level.

I built this jig so I could clamp it to the face and have a nice hard edge to set my first long piece of moulding.


A little glue before installing.


Then I set it against my block and nailed down.


Then I glued up the two smaller pieces. Followed by the final larger right moulding.


Then nailed while holding the pieces. Make sure you shoot straight otherwise the moulding could shift. I learned to start installing everything in place that are not as visible in the room. So by time I made it to the more visible parts I worked out any kinks.
This putty knife worked nice to remove any excess glue.



Finally, the completed project.

Thanks.

Yeah. Just wish I had more in my arsenal. It would probably make me more efficient.

That's too funny. But isn't that a double negative?

So I'm going to attempt installing the base boards now. I'm planning to go with a 1/2" pad and 1/4" thick carpet (Quadrate).

Given the carpet is pretty thin...I'm assuming I should raise the baseboard about 3/8" off the ground. Does that sound right?

Hi Larry. I already started setting it a hair above 3/8". I think the carpet will ramp down from the 1/2" pad over the tack strip and then hopefully squeeze under the base. I'm pretty sure you only use base shoe on hard surfaces like tile or hardwood. I know the carpet guy initially said he will need to ramp up to the 3/4" bullnose because it will drop down on the tack strip.

Absolute worst case, I could go with a 3/8" pad...although not ideal for sound.

I was hoping to finish up the base boards over the weekend but it didn't happen with it being Easter weekend.

I was able to make a big dent in the room though.

Thanks snickers1. Good luck with your build / journey. It's a long road.

Thanks. It looks like you are doing the same. Remember, it's not a race.

They will both be painted black. The chair rail came primed already and the baseboard was primed and painted and left over from the basement project.

Hi Larry. I did just recently correspond with him. I'd like to try and get the ceiling done prior to the carpet install if possible.

I would email him again. I know he does travel alot and has a hard time keeping up with all the inquiries.

I only had a couple hours to spend in the theater last night.

I completed cutting all the baseboard along a set of stairs.

I made another big push last night after dinner until about 2am.

I finished putting up all the base for now at least until the door is installed.

I also started on the mouldings in between the columns.

First I cut to size all the vertical pieces since they were all the same size. Trimmed here and there to ensure they were identical in size.

I used my base (4 1/4" tall) as my spacer all around. I started by tracing my shape inbetween the columns on the MDF. Since I made sure to mount the chair rail level to the ground I went off of that as my guide since it would be consistent as opposed to using the base board which fluctuates in height with the ground.

I dabbed a bit of glue on the backside of the moulding, especially in the corners, and pushed the top piece snug against my base board spacer to ensure it was straight and level. Then brad nailed.



Next, I glued the back side and joints of the two side pieces and set in place.



Then finally glued the bottom piece and placed on the wall. By time you finish positioning all the corners so they are square...the glue should start doing it's magic.



Finally...I brad nailed the remaining sides and bottom to the wall. Make sure to go straight so the moulding doesn't slide.

I'm looking for a little feedback on the moulding between the chair rail, base and columns in these two renders.

I need to decide whether to have the moulding follow the stairs with an "L" shape or just run it straight. This would be the only place this occurs in the room if I decide to make an "L" shape.

Any thoughts?

"L" Shape


Straight