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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 57

post #1681 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I didn't try contacting GOM yet. I may do so. I'll cut what I can from the frame and try to use it elsewhere so I don't get in a bind.

I did email FabricMate a photo although compared to this one it didn't do it justice. I put this up against a window so you can see the light coming through.

Those of you with long runs may want to preplan and pull those long runs from the roll just to make sure you don't come down to the end and have an imperfection in the material.

Had I known what the tags meant, I could have worked around it with some planning. Hopefully whoever reads this can prevent it from happening to them.


Well to put it kindly, that is ********. Unacceptable!
post #1682 of 3008
I love that red color! That will be an awesome contrast. In fact, I like the real color versus the darker plum reds in your renders. Looking very COOL!
post #1683 of 3008
Mario,
I'm not sure if you answered this already and I haven't really gotten into the finishing stages of my theater so I guess I'm really just asking for educational purposes. But, why didn't you paint the columns, chair rail, and trim before you installed the fabric panels? I'm pretty good at cutting in with a brush, but you must be a cutting-in savant if you can paint that and not allow paint to get on the fabric.
post #1684 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

OMG. I love that rotary tool!!! I REALLY needed one. The scissors we used worked of course but it would have been a lot easier.

All things aside, the room is looking gorgeous! I really love the color combinations and style. Cool and classy at the same time.

Yeah. I guess I haven't seen anyone else mention it in a build thread yet. Definitely a must-have.

Thanks for the positive comments too!
post #1685 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Well to put it kindly, that is ********. Unacceptable!

I did get a call and email from my sales rep that I dealt with initially. They gave me some information on how to possibly resolve the defect but also mentioned that they could replace the section of fabric if I returned it.

I think I'll have enough spare though. So hopefully crisis averted.
post #1686 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Fortunately, my seals were already black - I think that was an option where I had a choice when I ordered the doors.

It doesn't sound like you ordered the sound proof seals from the Sound Proof company then since they don't sell doors AFAIK.

I guess I could also just spray paint them to blend with the door color.
post #1687 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post

Mario,
I'm not sure if you answered this already and I haven't really gotten into the finishing stages of my theater so I guess I'm really just asking for educational purposes. But, why didn't you paint the columns, chair rail, and trim before you installed the fabric panels? I'm pretty good at cutting in with a brush, but you must be a cutting-in savant if you can paint that and not allow paint to get on the fabric.

The panels are currently removable. I just needed some visual motivation to keep going. Once the room is painted, I'll put them back on the wall and make them a bit more permanent.
post #1688 of 3008
Here are some pictures from a wine cellar install. These show another view of a wide jamb. Different considerations for noise and temperature control, but the double pane windows give a view of how the wall width was handled in the door installation.

Attachment 244287

Attachment 244288

Attachment 244289
LL
LL
LL
post #1689 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks Oronomus,

I'm actually trying to wrap my head around building the custom door jamb now.

Does anyone know if the threshold get built with the jamb?

I'm trying to figure out how wide to make the threshold as well. Typically I think they have the threshold break between surfaces (carpet/wood) underneath the middle of the door. So I'm thinking from the theater side you will only see carpet when the door is closed.

From the foyer side I just need to figure out does the threshold span the entire depth of the two door jambs or not.

I did check out the Oak jambs at Menards and they looked pretty pathetic as far as being straight. Some of them looked like Rainbows they were so bowed. So it looks like I may just roll my own.
post #1690 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I believe I'm supposed to make the opening a 1/4" larger than my door. I have a 36" door. Does that sound right?

Also, is there one side of the slab door (handle side I believe) that should be angled at 2 degree's? I couldn't really notice it with a square though on my door.
post #1691 of 3008
I just started on my jamb this weekend. The opening should be 1/4" wider than the door. That will leave you with 1/8" on either side of the door so it will close properly. I wouldn't angle unless you have problems with it closing properly.

Here is a pretty good video that talks about the dimensions and give a short "how to". (and no, this isn't me )

Custom Door Jamb
post #1692 of 3008
FYI regarding the rotary cutter Mario is using. I stopped by JoAnn's Fabrics this weekend and they have ALL rotary cutters on 50%! I picked one up after seeing how easy Mario was able to cut his fabric. I think the sale might be over either today or Wed, so I wouldn't wait around.
post #1693 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I pulled an 18 hour straight bender this weekend and got quite a bit accomplished.

I knocked out all the fabric frames except for the back door entry wall.

I didn't want to have to use long screws for the outlets and have them be all wobbly so I used the 4 gang box that I cut down to a 3/4" depth and fitted it right into the frame.












I ordered an 6"x8" vent cover for my 6" dead vent. Since the vent was larger than the actual opening, I painted the frame and wall black just so you couldn't see anything through the vent.






After stapling the backside. I stapled around the opening I framed earlier. Then lightly hot glued the edges so they couldn't get snagged.


Next I marked my holes.


I dabbed a little hot glue before pre-drilling the holes for the screws to hold the vent.


Now I just need to spray the vent black.


Here are some shots with the fabric frames in place. I used some velcro strips on the bottom side so I could easily remove them from the wall.











Next, I primed the underside of the light tray so it's ready for fabric when the time comes.


I started working on the jambs as well. I decided to go with Poplar for the legs and header. I couldn't justify spending the extra for two jambs in Maple for something that will just get primed and painted.

As usual, it's challenging to find straight stock. So I'll have to swap some boards later.

I made a little jig for the router so I could easily knock out the four dadoes for the top of the jamb legs. I think those are called rabbetts. ?!? They are 3/8" deep and 3/4" wide so the header should fit in there nicely.







I'm at a stand still now until I figure out what my measurements are supposed to be around the door, under the door, jamb to the floor, etc. I couldn't really find anything online that told me how to build a jamb.
post #1694 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

I just started on my jamb this weekend. The opening should be 1/4" wider than the door. That will leave you with 1/8" on either side of the door so it will close properly. I wouldn't angle unless you have problems with it closing properly.

Here is a pretty good video that talks about the dimensions and give a short "how to". (and no, this isn't me )

Custom Door Jamb

Thanks. That's the video I've watched many times and found the most helpful.

I'm assuming the top should be 1/8" too?

What about clearance below the door to the threshold?

Should I leave 3/8" to 1/2" below the jamb legs for carpet/pad?

I'm assuming the threshold should get cut to fit inside the jamb? Then I can set my door seals on top of the threshold.

I'm planning to route the edges with a 1/8" round over.
post #1695 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport View Post

FYI regarding the rotary cutter Mario is using. I stopped by JoAnn's Fabrics this weekend and they have ALL rotary cutters on 50%! I picked one up after seeing how easy Mario was able to cut his fabric. I think the sale might be over either today or Wed, so I wouldn't wait around.

Unfortunately I paid full price at Hobby Lobby. It wasn't worth the gas money and time though to go back with one of thsoe 50% off competitor coupons.
post #1696 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Thanks. That's the video I've watched many times and found the most helpful.

I'm assuming the top should be 1/8" too?

What about clearance below the door to the threshold?

Should I leave 3/8" to 1/2" below the jamb legs for carpet/pad?

I'm assuming the threshold should get cut to fit inside the jamb? Then I can set my door seals on top of the threshold.

I'm planning to route the edges with a 1/8" round over.

I plan on having the top gap be 1/8" also. The below door clearance will depend on your floor covering. Depending on the thickness of your pad and carpet choice, you may need to be closer to 1" clearance from the bare floor. I was planning a 5/8" threshold, and have since read a few comments that make me think I need to be thicker than that. Here's one from stockmonkey2000 from my thread.

Quote:


Just one note on the threshold - My threshold rises 3/4 inch above the subfloor but now that the carpet is done (low pile carpet) the door rubs on the carpet. When opening the door the bottom door seal is still somewhat in a lowered position and I have to rock the door back and forth a bit to get the seal to come up. The carpet is flush with the threshold but I wish it stuck up another 1/4 inch or so. I'm going to have to cut down my door a bit and will probably have to remove the threshold and raise it up another 1/4".

Hope this helps!
post #1697 of 3008
Have you thought about color matched the return cover to the fabric? Black will look good, but you can really make it disappear. Just a thought.

Looks great!

Bud
post #1698 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Have you thought about color matched the return cover to the fabric? Black will look good, but you can really make it disappear. Just a thought.

Looks great!

Bud

I was going to suggest the same thing.

Things are really looking great, Mario.
post #1699 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Not a bad idea guys. If I can color match some spray paint to the fabric. Sometimes it looks like you are trying to hide it though. I personally don't mind the contrast of the black vent but will bring some fabric to the store when it comes time. I can always spray it again.
post #1700 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport View Post

FYI regarding the rotary cutter Mario is using. I stopped by JoAnn's Fabrics this weekend and they have ALL rotary cutters on 50%! I picked one up after seeing how easy Mario was able to cut his fabric. I think the sale might be over either today or Wed, so I wouldn't wait around.

Can you provide a link from Joann's web site? I've got a few of them around so its an easy trip
post #1701 of 3008
No link, I bought mine in the store. I went in to look at their black velvet and stumbled upon the 50% sale on all the rotary cutters.
post #1702 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Can you provide a link from Joann's web site? I've got a few of them around so its an easy trip

They sell a variety of them. But here's the one I'm using:
http://www.joann.com/dritz-pressure-...-45mm/prd2762/

You should be able to find 50% off coupons for free online.
post #1703 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

They sell a variety of them. But here's the one I'm using:
http://www.joann.com/dritz-pressure-...-45mm/prd2762/

You should be able to find 50% off coupons for free online.

lol..ok...I thought it was like a $40 tool
post #1704 of 3008
FYI, I ended up buying the Fisker (sp?) Titanium with the large cutter and it cost me a whopping $15 after the %50 off. This was an in store sale, no coupon needed.
post #1705 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport View Post

FYI, I ended up buying the Fisker (sp?) Titanium with the large cutter and it cost me a whopping $15 after the %50 off. This was an in store sale, no coupon needed.

Just think if you had the coupon you could have purchased an entire burger at SmashBurger

**** now I'm hungry
post #1706 of 3008
looking good !
post #1707 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I've commited to cutting the Jamb legs.

For those interested, here's how I figured out my jamb leg height.

From the concrete up:
1) Allow 3/4" for Oak Threshold and Roofing Felt
2) Allow 3/8" Gap for Door to swing open and Automatic Door Bottom
3) Allow 80" For Door Height
4) Allow 1/8" Gap between top of Door and Jamb Header

My Jamb Legs will sit 3/8" Off the concrete - putting it right in the center of the Oak threshold.

After I cut the Jamb Legs (81 5/8") in my case, I snugged them around the door and made sure there was a 1/4" on one side of the door.



With the dado, my header ended up being 37" wide.



I routed all sides that face into the room with a 1/8" roundover bit.



I just did a dry fit after shaving the drywall. The rough opening is only 38". That doesn't give me a lot of wiggle room to level. But it looked like the opening was pretty level.
post #1708 of 3008
Looks like a good start on the door - well done Mario!
post #1709 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Looks like a good start on the door - well done Mario!

Thanks. I'm anxious to get through this door jamb phase!
post #1710 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I worked on the jamb again last night. Trimming some more drywall and dryfitting both jambs into place to see how much I'll need to shave off the extended jamb. The wall gets bigger in places so I'm trying to think of how I might handle that with minimal gaps. I can see it's going to be challenging to flush both set of jambs. Because you loose access to one side once the first jamb is installed. So shimming becomes an issue.

I liked the idea someone mentioned of doing a dado. If I make it big enough the two jambs should slide together and overlap...but I'll make it so they don't physically touch.

I did route out the door hinges.

I marked my top hinge 7" down from the top of the door and the bottom hinge is 11" from the bottom of the door. The middle hinge was just calculated by finding the center between the top and bottom hinge.


I picked up this Porter Cable hinge jig from Lowes. I managed to break it pounding the set pin in on the last hinge of the door. So I'll need to pick up another to finish the hinges on the jamb leg.

CAUTION: I was just about to start routing the hinge. I figured it was a slab so the door was the same on both sides so it didn't really matter which way the hinges faced because I thought I could just flip the door. Wrong! Because the top and bottom hinges aren't symetrically placed on the door you can't do that. So just make sure you mark the orientation and position of the door and then route. I caught this seconds before firing up the router.



After routing, I had to trim the radius corner with a utility knife to accomodate the black square hinges.



You really need to make sure the set pin goes in straight. I noticed that there's a little play in the jig. So not all my hinges would sit the same distance into the door. The depth was fine. So I may need to just verify when I screw them in that they are all the same. I'm guessing there's not much play when it comes to getting these hinges set correctly.




My next step is to route the jamb leg hinges now before assembling it together.

Then assemble the jamb, and hang the door. Then drill/route the latch and door knob.
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