The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 57

Thanks for the link. It looks like you would use a split jamb in a retro-fit application. But I think in my case, I still need something that spans over two walls. So I'm still left with two separate jambs.

Thanks Brad. That does look nice and brings up another issue I may need to think about which is do I want to hide the side sound seals.

Or are people just spraying them black? Otherwise I'd have to get creative with some moulding to hide them.

You couldn't have said it better. I guess to some extent, sound is still a user preference item to some degree which is why they have different sound fields on the amps to emulate different size rooms, halls and arena's. What may sound good to someone may not appeal to another.

As a side note, I still have plenty of room in my front cabinets to add lots of OC703 too for additional bass trapping.

Ok. Word to the wise.

I didn't make much progress last night.

I was assembling another large fabric frame when I noticed a hole in the fabric. Needless to say, I had already stapled quite a bit of the fabric to the pre-built frame.

Attempts to remove the staples were useless.

I called Fabricmate in hopes of getting some replacement material so I wouldn't run out for my big run at the end.

Apparently when you order the FR701 fabric, there are little tags along the outer edge...which I had seen, but thought they were some type of yard markers and was just removing them along the way.

Turns out those are marked as acceptable tolerance flaws in the material. Apparently an "industry standard". Which is great if you are "in the industry". Not so great if ou learn the hard way. He said they allow like 8 per 60 yards. I had about 6 or 7 in 32 yards.

I'm not sure when a hole in the material became acceptable...but it would have been nice to have some information about what the markers are and what the colors of the markers mean. The contact at Fabricmate wasn't aware of what the colors meant either. I'm assuming it might mean the severity of the flaw.

Fabricmate was unwilling to replace the material because of the "industry standard".

Just thought this might prove helpful to others. I don't think I've seen this topic discussed before in other build threads so hopefully it saves someone else some grief.

I'm not a big fan of rework.

I've got to go back and review all the frames I've built and see if I can spot the flaws that I disregarded when removing the tags. I'm hoping they were more subtle and/or on the edge of the frame rather than a hole in the middle.

I didn't try contacting GOM yet. I may do so. I'll cut what I can from the frame and try to use it elsewhere so I don't get in a bind.

I did email FabricMate a photo although compared to this one it didn't do it justice. I put this up against a window so you can see the light coming through.

Those of you with long runs may want to preplan and pull those long runs from the roll just to make sure you don't come down to the end and have an imperfection in the material.

Had I known what the tags meant, I could have worked around it with some planning. Hopefully whoever reads this can prevent it from happening to them.

I'm almost half way done with the fabric panels. I thought I'd put them all in to see how it looks.

I also hot glued all the corners where I cut away the extra fabric to prevent them from fraying or getting caught on anything.

I forgot to post pics of this from the other day of how I've been cutting the fabric.

I've found it easier to cut on the floor using my tile as a straight edge.

I'm using a smaller ripped piece of MDF as the cutting board, rotatry cutting tool and straight edge ruler clamp. The roll itself acts as a nice straight edge to butt the MDF to.


It just so happens the one I documented happens to be the one with the yellow tag that indicates there is a flaw in the material. If you look closely in the picture you can see it.





The rotary cutting tool does a fantastic job of cutting the fabric. Sure beats the expensive scissors I was initially using. I'm hoping the MDF cutting board will keep the blade sharp.



I've also been tracing the fabric frame outlines on the wall before I remove them. Just in case I want to apply the acoustic material to the wall before installing the frame.

Yeah. I guess I haven't seen anyone else mention it in a build thread yet. Definitely a must-have.

Thanks for the positive comments too!

I did get a call and email from my sales rep that I dealt with initially. They gave me some information on how to possibly resolve the defect but also mentioned that they could replace the section of fabric if I returned it.

I think I'll have enough spare though. So hopefully crisis averted.

It doesn't sound like you ordered the sound proof seals from the Sound Proof company then since they don't sell doors AFAIK.

I guess I could also just spray paint them to blend with the door color.

The panels are currently removable. I just needed some visual motivation to keep going. Once the room is painted, I'll put them back on the wall and make them a bit more permanent.

Thanks Oronomus,

I'm actually trying to wrap my head around building the custom door jamb now.

Does anyone know if the threshold get built with the jamb?

I'm trying to figure out how wide to make the threshold as well. Typically I think they have the threshold break between surfaces (carpet/wood) underneath the middle of the door. So I'm thinking from the theater side you will only see carpet when the door is closed.

From the foyer side I just need to figure out does the threshold span the entire depth of the two door jambs or not.

I did check out the Oak jambs at Menards and they looked pretty pathetic as far as being straight. Some of them looked like Rainbows they were so bowed. So it looks like I may just roll my own.

I believe I'm supposed to make the opening a 1/4" larger than my door. I have a 36" door. Does that sound right?

Also, is there one side of the slab door (handle side I believe) that should be angled at 2 degree's? I couldn't really notice it with a square though on my door.

I pulled an 18 hour straight bender this weekend and got quite a bit accomplished.

I knocked out all the fabric frames except for the back door entry wall.

I didn't want to have to use long screws for the outlets and have them be all wobbly so I used the 4 gang box that I cut down to a 3/4" depth and fitted it right into the frame.












I ordered an 6"x8" vent cover for my 6" dead vent. Since the vent was larger than the actual opening, I painted the frame and wall black just so you couldn't see anything through the vent.






After stapling the backside. I stapled around the opening I framed earlier. Then lightly hot glued the edges so they couldn't get snagged.


Next I marked my holes.


I dabbed a little hot glue before pre-drilling the holes for the screws to hold the vent.


Now I just need to spray the vent black.


Here are some shots with the fabric frames in place. I used some velcro strips on the bottom side so I could easily remove them from the wall.











Next, I primed the underside of the light tray so it's ready for fabric when the time comes.


I started working on the jambs as well. I decided to go with Poplar for the legs and header. I couldn't justify spending the extra for two jambs in Maple for something that will just get primed and painted.

As usual, it's challenging to find straight stock. So I'll have to swap some boards later.

I made a little jig for the router so I could easily knock out the four dadoes for the top of the jamb legs. I think those are called rabbetts. ?!? They are 3/8" deep and 3/4" wide so the header should fit in there nicely.







I'm at a stand still now until I figure out what my measurements are supposed to be around the door, under the door, jamb to the floor, etc. I couldn't really find anything online that told me how to build a jamb.

Thanks. That's the video I've watched many times and found the most helpful.

I'm assuming the top should be 1/8" too?

What about clearance below the door to the threshold?

Should I leave 3/8" to 1/2" below the jamb legs for carpet/pad?

I'm assuming the threshold should get cut to fit inside the jamb? Then I can set my door seals on top of the threshold.

I'm planning to route the edges with a 1/8" round over.

Unfortunately I paid full price at Hobby Lobby. It wasn't worth the gas money and time though to go back with one of thsoe 50% off competitor coupons.