The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 62

Thanks guys for all the reponses.

I sent D-Box an email last week asking them for instructions from the tech on how to repair the unit myself as well as seeing if I could elevate my situation to someone else there. That was last week Tuesday and I haven't heard back yet. I resent the email yesterday so hopefully I'll get a response.

I bought the system as a DEMO back in 2007 but if I'm not mistaken it was inspected by D-Box and given another year warranty. The actuator is actually their Odyssey XL line and designed for platform use. So different than the ebay auction. It may have actually been a DEMO system that D-Box lent out to a high-end store.



I wasn't looking for free service on the unit, but I thought the $1,000 repair fee was a hefty charge and plus given my situation of not having it officially installed in the theater, that it might have some weight. I've only found 2 or 3 people with issues on the forums. 2 of 3 had theirs repaired for free due to manufacturer assembly or something. I've sent the information to D-Box in hopes that they can honor the same for me...but like I said, I never heard back.

It was helpful to see those diagrams of the construction, but not enough to see what might it take to repair them.

GetGray,
I do use Newtek's Lightwave3D for the renders.

craig72,
Thanks for the compliments on the wood work.

More exciting news.

The carpet is ordered. They are going to double-glue it down because of all the oak it ends up butting up to.

I also started putting the fabric up on the soffit. If you recall, I went through a couple different ideas of trying to get a seamless 45 edge in the corners. I ended up cutting a slot at a 45 in each corner so I could push the fabric up into the soffit and staple it above. So far it's worked as I expected although it takes a bit of time. I'm just hoping I can squeeze the second set of fabric through the same hole.


I'm dealing with 13' pieces of fabric. So to cut it easier, I just folded it in half. My roller "pizza" knife cut right through both pieces without a problem. I start pushing the fabric up through one end and stapling them down. Then draped it to the other end held up with a clamp.


Here you can see the corner seam - sorry it's dark. I lost a few lights during this phase:


I initially cut pie pieces in the fabric where the can lights went...but my holes were too tight with the fabric. So I had to trim the edges. I tried to staple as close to the edge as possible. There's not a lot of play with the can lights rim.

Hi Larry,

I just used whisper clips/channels and then screws. No washers or anything.

You might need closer spacing (of the clips) if you are doing whisper clips with that extra layer.

I would check with Ted from Sound Proofing though for a definite answer.

With the sub you went with you might have been better building a bunker out of concrete. That thing is gonna bring down the house.

Hopefully my wife doesn't read the part about the ceiling falling because of the clips.

I can say having that OSB layer was awesome...especially with all the moulding I put up. I'm not too anxious to do the 6x6 foyer which I didn't put that extra OSB layer. It'll be especially difficult with fabric on the walls trying to find studs.

You might just put a little PL Premium in between some of the layers to give it that extra hold if you are worried. Although, you may check with Ted to see if the dampens the effects of the Green Glue.

Larry,

I'm just treating the door to the theater with products from The SoundProofing Company. I'll be installing the automatic door bottom and the door seals.

If I need to I can always add treatment to the second door from the bar area into the foyer.

Finally finished up the soffit fabric. That was abit painful. I took all the light fixtures down and cleaned them up to get rid of the dust.

One tip I can pass on when installing fabric of this length and without an edge to wrap around is to staple about foot at a time. Staple on one edge pulling length-wise. Then staple the other side pulling width-wise. Initially I was just pulling length-wise when stapling both sides and later noticed the material was sagging in the middle a bit. I was able to stretch and add more staples to clean it up...but better to do it right the first time.



The corners ended up turning out really nice so I won't have to add any fabric covered boards to hide staples which was my initial goal.

Next step is to pick up all the soffit moulding, rip down, then prime and paint so I can hang that. That should just about wrap up all cutting in the room and the priming begins.

I've got a bit more sanding to do and then the final clean up.

Thanks. I'm not looking forward to it either. The final stretch is the toughest mile.

The drywall doesn't actually hang into the light tray soffit.

The final turned out pretty much like this except I didn't use L-Brackets or the 1x3's at the edges. The 2x2 was replaced with 2x4's.


The plywood that cantilever's over is about 10 3/4".

Does that answer your questions?

Thanks Larry. We've seen what happens in other builds when the projector goes into the room prematurely. The build stops.

Thanks so much for the kind words.

I cleaned up the scrap wood out of the theater room this past weekend.

I also picked up some 14' length base boards and ripped them down to size for trimming out the light tray. I also picked up a slightly different moulding instead of the outside corner to separate the drywall ceiling from the light tray. I think it adds a little more flare.

I primed, lightly sanded, then painted the first coat.

I still need to rip down the mouldings for the inside edge of the light tray. I'll do that after I finish the 2nd coat and hang these mouldings to make more room.

Are these the dimensions you were looking for?


Mine were based on building mostly around the HVAC coffins we built and providing enough support where the Projector gets mounted.

Yeah. I basically have a 12' trailer just to hall my 61" mower to the shop when needed. So it's nice to see it come in handy every now and then for other things.

The guy at Menard's laughed at me for having such a big trailer to haul (5) 2 3/4" x 14' base boards.

Here's the final light tray moulding design that I'm going with.




I put on a second coat of paint on all the mouldings the other day. Then started installing it.

Given the pieces were all greater than 12' and my arm span is no where near that I created a couple extra hands. I wrapped some 1x2's with spare GOM fabric so I wouldn't damage the moulding. Then clamped it to the soffit to create a channel to slide the moulding into for dry fitting and nailing.




Here's a photo of just the base trim installed.


Finished photo's with both the base and wainstcoting cap installed.

Thanks snickers1 and dvmiller.

JVoth,

I know I've seen others put GOM below their can lights without issue. In my case, I'm using LED can lights. So they don't get nearly as hot. I went with these to reduce the heat in the room as well as because they were dimmable.

I can unscrew the LED's and handle them without burning myself so I can't imagine they will get hot enough to start a fire. There's very little fabric contact with the LED housing as well. The hottest part of the LED is actually up in the can light enclosure - several inches above the fabric and separated by the plywood.

Here's a link to the LED's I'm using:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

There are 16 in the light tray plus 2 in the rear of the room. There are currently 3 (60-100) watt bulbs in the front hanging down which is also helping to light up the room. But I'm extremely happy with the light and dimming of the CREE led's. They do dim down to a low level. I remember I posted the actual % but can't remember off the top of my head. I think it may have been 10% they shut off. But even at 10% they are barely visible.