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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 62

post #1831 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Mario, what's the width of the drywall part of your soffit? And the width of the light tray?

The drywall doesn't actually hang into the light tray soffit.

The final turned out pretty much like this except I didn't use L-Brackets or the 1x3's at the edges. The 2x2 was replaced with 2x4's.


The plywood that cantilever's over is about 10 3/4".

Does that answer your questions?
post #1832 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Looks good as is...throw the projector and screen up and call it a day

Thanks Larry. We've seen what happens in other builds when the projector goes into the room prematurely. The build stops.
post #1833 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Holy cow, that looks gorgeous! What a room!

Thanks so much for the kind words.
post #1834 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I cleaned up the scrap wood out of the theater room this past weekend.

I also picked up some 14' length base boards and ripped them down to size for trimming out the light tray. I also picked up a slightly different moulding instead of the outside corner to separate the drywall ceiling from the light tray. I think it adds a little more flare.

I primed, lightly sanded, then painted the first coat.

I still need to rip down the mouldings for the inside edge of the light tray. I'll do that after I finish the 2nd coat and hang these mouldings to make more room.

post #1835 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

The drywall doesn't actually hang into the light tray soffit.

The final turned out pretty much like this except I didn't use L-Brackets or the 1x3's at the edges. The 2x2 was replaced with 2x4's.


The plywood that cantilever's over is about 10 3/4".

Does that answer your questions?

Mostly! What's the total width of the soffit plus light tray? I am shamelessly going to copy your design because it's so amazing looking - except I'll likely put a wood veneer over the plywood part instead of fabric.
post #1836 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I also picked up some 14' length base boards and ripped them down to size for trimming out the light tray.

I'm assuming they weren't brought home in a Mini Cooper.
post #1837 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Mostly! What's the total width of the soffit plus light tray? I am shamelessly going to copy your design because it's so amazing looking - except I'll likely put a wood veneer over the plywood part instead of fabric.

Are these the dimensions you were looking for?


Mine were based on building mostly around the HVAC coffins we built and providing enough support where the Projector gets mounted.
post #1838 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I'm assuming they weren't brought home in a Mini Cooper.

Yeah. I basically have a 12' trailer just to hall my 61" mower to the shop when needed. So it's nice to see it come in handy every now and then for other things.

The guy at Menard's laughed at me for having such a big trailer to haul (5) 2 3/4" x 14' base boards.
post #1839 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Here's the final light tray moulding design that I'm going with.




I put on a second coat of paint on all the mouldings the other day. Then started installing it.

Given the pieces were all greater than 12' and my arm span is no where near that I created a couple extra hands. I wrapped some 1x2's with spare GOM fabric so I wouldn't damage the moulding. Then clamped it to the soffit to create a channel to slide the moulding into for dry fitting and nailing.




Here's a photo of just the base trim installed.


Finished photo's with both the base and wainstcoting cap installed.
















post #1840 of 3008
pure Art that is all can say.........
post #1841 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

pure Art that is all can say.........

Yes...and great craftsmanship!

Dale
post #1842 of 3008
Mario,
I've never worked with GOM fabric like you are but how come the lights aren't going to heat that fabric up to the point of it causing a fire? I know GOM has some kind of fire rating but those bulbs get extremely hot and it just seems like the fabric could start burning any minute. How hot can that stuff get before it actually catches fire?
post #1843 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks snickers1 and dvmiller.

JVoth,

I know I've seen others put GOM below their can lights without issue. In my case, I'm using LED can lights. So they don't get nearly as hot. I went with these to reduce the heat in the room as well as because they were dimmable.

I can unscrew the LED's and handle them without burning myself so I can't imagine they will get hot enough to start a fire. There's very little fabric contact with the LED housing as well. The hottest part of the LED is actually up in the can light enclosure - several inches above the fabric and separated by the plywood.
post #1844 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

In my case, I'm using LED can lights. So they don't get nearly as hot. I went with these to reduce the heat in the room as well as because they were dimmable.

Mario:

Apologies if it's in the thread..which LED bulbs are you using? In your photos, it looks like the only light sources are your soffit perimeter and the screen lights. Is that right? Looks like the LED's are doing pretty well brightness wise, right now. If they are already on dimmers, how low will they go? I understand some LED's wont' dim fully like a incandecent.

Thanks, and thanks for the thread, your crafstmanship is beautiful.
post #1845 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

Mario:

Apologies if it's in the thread..which LED bulbs are you using? In your photos, it looks like the only light sources are your soffit perimeter and the screen lights. Is that right? Looks like the LED's are doing pretty well brightness wise, right now. If they are already on dimmers, how low will they go? I understand some LED's wont' dim fully like a incandecent.

Thanks, and thanks for the thread, your crafstmanship is beautiful.

Here's a link to the LED's I'm using:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

There are 16 in the light tray plus 2 in the rear of the room. There are currently 3 (60-100) watt bulbs in the front hanging down which is also helping to light up the room. But I'm extremely happy with the light and dimming of the CREE led's. They do dim down to a low level. I remember I posted the actual % but can't remember off the top of my head. I think it may have been 10% they shut off. But even at 10% they are barely visible.
post #1846 of 3008
Great, thanks Mario. I'll get some and check them out.
post #1847 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Here's a link to the LED's I'm using:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

There are 16 in the light tray plus 2 in the rear of the room. There are currently 3 (60-100) watt bulbs in the front hanging down which is also helping to light up the room. But I'm extremely happy with the light and dimming of the CREE led's. They do dim down to a low level. I remember I posted the actual % but can't remember off the top of my head. I think it may have been 10% they shut off. But even at 10% they are barely visible.

They don't dim as well as regular lights but it is only something noticable when you have them next to each other. For an energy efficient lighting option these are incredible.

I bought the 6" version for my basement.
post #1848 of 3008
re LED lights... I went and got 3 to try out yesterday. Comparing them to some 50PAR20's I have on one side of the room. I didn't have dimmers to hook them to in my "test" spot. Untested dimming aside my input:

Pros: 9.5 watt vs. 50w, less heat into room for a lot of lights, cheaper to run full on, include trim ring so that saves the cost of buying a trim. Just as bright or very close to 50PAR20 halogen

Cons: Color temp a little lower than halogen, yellower light. May be a factor depending on room color and use. Trim rings are built in and don't appear to be eaisly removable, they are white. White won't work in my room, not sure if I can paint them or not. 5+ times the cost of halogen.

Could go pro or con depending on need: 180 degree beam spread. This is a con if you want a narrower angle, pro if you wnat totally diffuse light.

But I will say this made me look harder at LEDs in general. I may order some PAR20 replacement bulbs that claim different beam spreads, slightly higher color temps to try out. 9w per light is attractive.

Thanks again Mario. Wouldnt' have considered them without your photos.
post #1849 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

re LED lights... I went and got 3 to try out yesterday. Comparing them to some 50PAR20's I have on one side of the room. I didn't have dimmers to hook them to in my "test" spot. Untested dimming aside my input:

Pros: 9.5 watt vs. 50w, less heat into room for a lot of lights, cheaper to run full on, include trim ring so that saves the cost of buying a trim. Just as bright or very close to 50PAR20 halogen

Cons: Color temp a little lower than halogen, yellower light. May be a factor depending on room color and use. Trim rings are built in and don't appear to be eaisly removable, they are white. White won't work in my room, not sure if I can paint them or not. 5+ times the cost of halogen.

Could go pro or con depending on need: 180 degree beam spread. This is a con if you want a narrower angle, pro if you wnat totally diffuse light.

But I will say this made me look harder at LEDs in general. I may order some PAR20 replacement bulbs that claim different beam spreads, slightly higher color temps to try out. 9w per light is attractive.

Thanks again Mario. Wouldnt' have considered them without your photos.

Hi GetGray,

This is by far the best LED type light I've seen or tried. The light color closely matches incandescent bulbs and will probably not match your halogens since they are whiter in color.

If you went with the 4", I show in my thread how I disassemble and spray paint them. I've got a ton of the 6", but I never needed to disassemble since white worked fine in those rooms.

If you get to disassembling one, there is a cardboard cylinder inside. In theory, you could build your own cylinder with a narrower spread if you really wanted to use them and make them more of a spot.
post #1850 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

re LED lights... I went and got 3 to try out yesterday. Comparing them to some 50PAR20's I have on one side of the room. I didn't have dimmers to hook them to in my "test" spot. Untested dimming aside my input:

Pros: 9.5 watt vs. 50w, less heat into room for a lot of lights, cheaper to run full on, include trim ring so that saves the cost of buying a trim. Just as bright or very close to 50PAR20 halogen

Cons: Color temp a little lower than halogen, yellower light. May be a factor depending on room color and use. Trim rings are built in and don't appear to be eaisly removable, they are white. White won't work in my room, not sure if I can paint them or not. 5+ times the cost of halogen.

Could go pro or con depending on need: 180 degree beam spread. This is a con if you want a narrower angle, pro if you wnat totally diffuse light.

But I will say this made me look harder at LEDs in general. I may order some PAR20 replacement bulbs that claim different beam spreads, slightly higher color temps to try out. 9w per light is attractive.

Thanks again Mario. Wouldnt' have considered them without your photos.

Cost for me was not an issue. I put up new high hats and the cost of trim rings plus non LED bulbs wasn't too far off from these bulbs. Plus I'm saving the planet

I should mention they are $25 a bulb in NJ. About a few months ago NJ added these to the list of items with an energy rebate
post #1851 of 3008
Hmm. I have seven of the 6" EcoSmart rings and they're fantastic! I bought several of the 4" version but returned them because they made horrible sounds when dimmed.

I'm using Lutron dimmers designed for LED (I guess they work by PWM). Those dimmers work great for incandescent and fluorescent and LED bulbs but these 4" EcoSmarts whined like a 5 year old kid!

I sure hope you've managed to get a good batch.
post #1852 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Hmm. I have seven of the 6" EcoSmart rings and they're fantastic! I bought several of the 4" version but returned them because they made horrible sounds when dimmed.

I'm using Lutron dimmers designed for LED (I guess they work by PWM). Those dimmers work great for incandescent and fluorescent and LED bulbs but these 4" EcoSmarts whined like a 5 year old kid!

I sure hope you've managed to get a good batch.

I haven't noticed any annyoing humming from the 4" lights using Insteon dimmers. Although once the room gets treated I'll have to see.
post #1853 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Made a big push on Friday night to get the base boards ripped down to size, primed and 2 coats of paint so I could install them on Saturday.



I built six L shaped supports and wrapped them with fabric to hold up the long pieces around the room. I left them extra long so I could cut and fit each end and then slide the board and move to the other corner and find my cut dimensions there. Then I'd make my final cut to size. I ended up ripping one board an 1/8" shorter to get the can lights to line up in the center. This forced me to miter a 2.5" board with a 2.625" board. Fortunately I just went to my 3D model and was able to calculate the two angles for each cut and it ended up working out perfect and unnoticable to anyone.

I started by putting on the under side first.








And then finally installed the 4 vertical baseboards. This was a bit of a challenge by myself and trying to get a quarter inch reveal and finish cut each corner. I ended up dinging the ceiling once.












I think I figured I have almost 200 feet of baseboard in the light tray soffit alone.

I've got a few odds and ends in the room to finish up before final cleanup. But I think I may have officially cut the last board in the room. I'm going to wait to install the crown once I have a chance to get speakers in the room and test for any rattles that may exist up in the soffit. It'll be easier to reach up there without the crown in my way.
post #1854 of 3008
Wow! The room is staring to make your beautiful renders look rather plain!
post #1855 of 3008
You have done a fantastic job with the light trays...Since my sconce plan might be getting derailed I am contemplating a light tray
post #1856 of 3008
That looks fantastic!
post #1857 of 3008
Looks really great Mario! You always show a lot of determination to not only get things done . . . but get them done to perfection. I am getting excited to see the next few weeks of updates because I think things are going to move very quickly from this point forward, especially considering all the panel work you have already done.

Any resolution to the leaky D-Box motor issue?
post #1858 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I ended up ripping one board an 1/8" shorter to get the can lights to line up in the center. This forced me to miter a 2.5" board with a 2.625" board. Fortunately I just went to my 3D model and was able to calculate the two angles for each cut and it ended up working out perfect and unnoticable to anyone.

This type of attention to detail is why most of us build our own rooms. You would have to get very lucky or search high and low to find a contractor that would worry about the 1/8". Not to mention draw the board width in 3D to make sure the angle cut was perfect. The amount of detail in this room is amazing and to think Mario does not do this for a living makes it even more impressive. Great job.
post #1859 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Wow! The room is staring to make your beautiful renders look rather plain!

Thanks Tedd.
post #1860 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

You have done a fantastic job with the light trays...Since my sconce plan might be getting derailed I am contemplating a light tray

Larry,

Sconces provide better in-room lighting than cans if you want to light up the surrounding walls and brighten up the room. I know I played with sconces on the side walls, but ended up deciding against it. Just two in the rear so they don't distract the eye from the screen.
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