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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 69

post #2041 of 3008
Absolutely beautiful work Mario - it looks better every day!
post #2042 of 3008
Really top notch work! You're doing one heck of a job man keep it going.....

a thermostst like this would look pretty good in your foyer
500

My appologies if it's already been discussed....I shouldn't even be saying anything but, thought I would throw that out there:D
post #2043 of 3008
Yes Yes I have to agree. Top notch work as always! Keep it going! Just a thought though......have you considered a black thermostat control?
post #2044 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyPyle View Post

Yes Yes I have to agree. Top notch work as always! Keep it going! Just a thought though......have you considered a black thermostat control?

Thanks guys.

BradleyPyle - I just plan to spray paint the thermostat housing black. I want to stick with the same ip thermostat since it integrates nicely with my automation system and the other thermostats in the house.
post #2045 of 3008
ahh seriously!?! I can't believe I didn't see that in your post.......sheesh looks like another cup of coffee is in order.....ignore me and carry on rolleyes.gif
post #2046 of 3008
Mario, this your rendering ?

http://www.s-se.us/
post #2047 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

Mario, this your rendering ?
http://www.s-se.us/

Yup. Seymour has my permission to use some renders for their advertisements and website.
post #2048 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post


I assume the HVAC guy is using the Fan Relay terminal of the room thermostat (usually tied to a green wire) to control a new relay that will then switch the 120 VAC to the Fantech.


What kind of relay did he install? Needs to have a 24 VAC coil. One end of the coil gets tied to Fan, the other to C (transformer common).


You should be able to hear the relay click, and/or measure continuity across the contacts when it is energized.


The contacts side of the relay interrupts the black power lead feeding the Fantech motor, the white neutral lead gets tied directly to the house neutral return.

Hey Mario...sorry to go back in the distant past. I'm working on this very same thing. Did you get the relay between the Fantech and thermostat working such that the Fantech switches on as soon as the thermostat clicks on? Thanks!
post #2049 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Hey Mario...sorry to go back in the distant past. I'm working on this very same thing. Did you get the relay between the Fantech and thermostat working such that the Fantech switches on as soon as the thermostat clicks on? Thanks!

Honestly, it's been so long I can't remember where I left off with it.

I believe I had it working when cooling turned on, but need to figure out if it also turned on with heat.

If it didn't, I was just going to build an automation rule through MLServer to send a command to turn it on the fan.

I finished putting the last coat of spray paint on it yesterday after disassembling and reassembling it. Unfortunately I accidentally crossed some wires and blew a fuse in my Arzel zone controller. Fortunately I was able to run to the store and get one before they closed. It's been 100+ degree's and I wasn't looking forward to not having AC last night.

It's off the wall at the moment (I didn't want to risk blowing the fuse again in this heat) and I need to see if the Fantech turns on with heat before I can let you know.
post #2050 of 3008
Mario,

My HAI thermostats have a configuration option "fan on with heat"; I suspect your thermostats may have a similar setting. The green wire contact would be closed when both the heat and cool are on.

Tim
post #2051 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Mario,
My HAI thermostats have a configuration option "fan on with heat"; I suspect your thermostats may have a similar setting. The green wire contact would be closed when both the heat and cool are on.
Tim

Just put the thermostat back on the wall and tested with both Heat and Cold.

The Fantech does turn on with both heat and cold.

As Tim pointed out...I have the Proliphix thermostat set to turn Fan on Heat Enabled.
post #2052 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Here's a recap from the weekend as I try to widdle the list down.

I finally finished installing the strike plate for the theater door.

IMG_0318_small.jpg

IMG_0325_small.jpg


I used a 3/4" paddle bit to drill out the center, then a dremel to shape it more like the opening:
IMG_0328_small.jpg


I started priming, then sanding all the remaining mouldings I'll need for the theater door and the column sides.

IMG_0335_small.jpg


I installed the last vent in the theater after applying three coats of Rustoleum Flat black. It blended nicely into the ceiling.
IMG_0339_small.jpg


I wrapped the entire foyer so my FIL can finish coat everything. He thought I didn't need to wrap and tape it, but I really wasn't sure how to get latex paint off the fabric if some did drip on it. After wrapping, I finished putting puttying everything. So final coat will hopefully be sometime this week and then I can install the foyer light.
IMG_0342_small.jpg

After my first coat of black on the theater door mouldings, I started assembling some of them. It's gonna take at least another couple nights this week to finish.
IMG_0348_small.jpg


I finished putting all the fabric on the frames for the bottom front columns. They are just sitting in there right now. It looks like I may need to finish nail them in. I tried velcro and putty, but I think the only way to get a tight seam flush with the front is to finish nail. The fabric pushes it out just enough and the frames are not always perfectly flush due to the wood imperfections.
IMG_0352_small.jpg
Edited by mcascio - 7/8/12 at 7:37pm
post #2053 of 3008
You got more done than I did and as usual, it looks fantastic. Do you have an estimated date of completion?
post #2054 of 3008
What primer and sanding device are you using? I'm having a hard time keeping brushmarks out of mine. Trying to avoid having a painter come in to spray it all.

Thanks, Scott
post #2055 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

You got more done than I did and as usual, it looks fantastic. Do you have an estimated date of completion?

Thanks.

I'm telling people two weeks now rather than two months. Although it's been four weeks now that I've been saying two weeks. wink.gif

I'm still waiting for the Dbox actuator to be returned so I can test the platform. I'd like to make sure that's all a go before I install the carpeting. Dbox has had the actuator for quite some time and it's been delayed about 4 weeks now from the first estimated date. They said it should ship by the end of this week so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
post #2056 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

What primer and sanding device are you using? I'm having a hard time keeping brushmarks out of mine. Trying to avoid having a painter come in to spray it all.
Thanks, Scott

Hey Scott.

I've been using BIN primer. It does sand pretty smooth and you shouldn't see any brush marks. I would just make sure you wait over night before sanding. I rushed it in my early testing and didn't have as good results. Also, make sure you are going light on the paint, perhaps you are putting too much on.

I've been sanding the rounded mouldings with #2 steel wool.

I have to be a couple inches to see the brush strokes where my FIL painted. Wherever I painted you can be a lot further and see the strokes. It's certainly a gift and much more challenging than I ever thought. Especially when you have larger areas to paint and your trying to move the paint around really fast before it sets up.
post #2057 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Just put the thermostat back on the wall and tested with both Heat and Cold.
The Fantech does turn on with both heat and cold.
As Tim pointed out...I have the Proliphix thermostat set to turn Fan on Heat Enabled.

Cool, thanks Mario. Incidentally, how did you get a hold of the Proliphix. I see that they don't sell them to residential customers anymore.
post #2058 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Cool, thanks Mario. Incidentally, how did you get a hold of the Proliphix. I see that they don't sell them to residential customers anymore.

I bought them a while back. I think I bought them through Smarthome.com. If you can't find any there, you could probably still find them on eBay for some good prices.
post #2059 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I finished attaching moulding to one side of the theater door. Just needs some sanding, putty and a finished coat of paint.

IMG_0359_small.jpg


Here's the dimensions I went with for laying out the trim for anyone interested:
TheaterDoor_Mouldings.jpg
post #2060 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I finished attaching moulding to one side of the theater door. Just needs some sanding, putty and a finished coat of paint.
IMG_0359_small.jpg
Here's the dimensions I went with for laying out the trim for anyone interested:
TheaterDoor_Mouldings.jpg

Mario,
I'm looking at that switch box next to the door. It looks like wiring up 2 switches was an incredibly complicated task in your room. What are all those wires and how on earth are you going to fit all that in a 2 gang box?
post #2061 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Yeah - it is a tangled mess but it does fit easily back into the box given the extra deep box and wall.

It's got a few extra wires because of us making sure that some of the room lights were on the generator and we had an existing run in the theater room before construction. So the electrician had to get a little creative.

I still need to spend a little time to see how they wired it so I can turn on the back wall sconces once I get them in.
post #2062 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Yeah - it is a tangled mess but it does fit easily back into the box given the extra deep box and wall.
It's got a few extra wires because of us making sure that some of the room lights were on the generator and we had an existing run in the theater room before construction. So the electrician had to get a little creative.
I still need to spend a little time to see how they wired it so I can turn on the back wall sconces once I get them in.

Good Luck! Man I would never be able to figure that out.
post #2063 of 3008
Based on my experience with just a couple satin black doors - you may need to hire a full time duster! smile.gif
post #2064 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Based on my experience with just a couple satin black doors - you may need to hire a full time duster! smile.gif

Or just keep the lights down low. smile.gif
post #2065 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I started worked on the fabric frames for the upper column sides.

After priming and applying two coats of black, I precut the determined lengths and assembled the frame separately. Sanding the corners and sharp edges a bit. I'll have to repaint them one more time lightly after putty anyways.

I decided it would be better in this case to staple the fabric to the column first. I traced the outline of where the frame will sit and made sure I kept the staples in that area. A little challenging with a smaller 3/4" width frame.
IMG_0365_small.jpg



IMG_0367_small.jpg

Once I finished stapling, I used 18 ga 1 1/4" brads to attach the frame. Then used my handy dandy rotary cutter to trim off a nice straight edge using the frame as my guide.
IMG_0372_small.jpg


Now I just need to step and repeat 15 more times.
post #2066 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Weekend update.

I continued building the upper column frames. I also got two coats of paint on the next batch so they can be ready for assembly.

IMG_0396_small.jpg

I found stapling one end of the fabric to the wall made it easier to work with the fabric out of the way...then it was easy to pull out of the wall.

For making sure the side frame lined up with the front top frame, I used this corner level.
IMG_0434_small.jpg

Then I reused my old corner block I had made to make sure it was set back the exact distance:
IMG_0431_small.jpg

I also used a large 2" metal ruler as a guide when stapling the fabric near the wall side. My frame happened to be 2" away from the drywall so it worked out great giving me a straight line to follow as well as pull the fabric tight.

I also started putting some of the recycled denim into the fabric frames.
IMG_0376_small.jpg

I finished putting in the sconces as well in the back of the room. I was able to figure out how they wired it without having to call back the electricians.
IMG_0403_small.jpg

IMG_0421_small.jpg


D-Box shipped out the repaired actuator so I'm anxious to test it out.

I need to start working on the door threshold and seals. Just wondering what everyone else has done regarding painting / spraying the seals. I'm think I could tape or remove the rubber gaskets and then spray prime, then flat black spray paint? Anyone have success just painting them?
post #2067 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Just wondering what everyone else has done regarding painting / spraying the seals. I'm think I could tape or remove the rubber gaskets and then spray prime, then flat black spray paint? Anyone have success just painting them?

Excellent job, as always. It has to be motivating to start seeing the final finishes permanently installed. I wonder if D-Box will do the right thing on the backside of your repair transaction - surely they had to see that they were repairing essentially a new unit.

As for the door seals, if you are using the ones from Zero international then you will be able to paint them with no problem. The bottom door seal I routered into the bottom of the door, so this was not painted. But for the jamb seals I removed the rubber gasket, removed the stickers with Goo Gone and scuff-sanded the surface with a fine grit sandpaper. As these metal parts are made from aluminum, I wanted to simply scuff the existing finish vs. going all the way to bare aluminum so there was no chance of any raw aluminum oxidizing before I had the chance to prime and paint. It's been a few years, but I recall taping off the track where the gasket lies was a bit tricky as it became a balance between full coverage and not getting spray primer and paint in where the gaskets will be reinstalled. From there I used a quality metal spray primer and satin black paint. Although the flat black will bond well, I would recommend the satin sheen over the flat to give it a bit more protection from potential scratches and chips. If you are like me, you'd probably rather live with a very gentle sheen rather than scratches that are nearly impossible to touch up perfectly.

One tip I recall from when I last painted these things - Use some wire coat hangers and create a 3 or 4 inch right angles on one side and use the normal hanger bend on the other. Remove the gaskets and slip the right angle side of two hangers into the piece through the side mount screw holes and resting where the gasket was. I ended up making a ghetto spray booth in my garage by laying down some plastic on the floor and then hanging this big horizontal piece on the door track for our garage door. I was able to open a couple of windows and a service door in the garage to draft out the fumes. Once each piece had its two or three successive light coats of primer or paint I got my wife to help me move it to another garage door rail to dry by each of us grabbing an end of a coat hanger.

But you shouldn't have to involve your wife if you put the coat hangers close enough at the 1/3 positions....but for some reason I had it in my head to use one coat hanger at each end. So when it came time to move the first one I realized that the coat hangers were just outside of my wingspan, forcing me to get a second person to move the piece. That was idiot move # 1,736,921,097 for me....rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif
Edited by TMcG - 7/16/12 at 10:40am
post #2068 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Excellent job, as always. It has to be motivating to start seeing the final finishes permanently installed. I wonder if D-Box will do the right thing on the backside of your repair transaction - surely they had to see that they were repairing essentially a new unit.
As for the door seals, if you are using the ones from Zero international then you will be able to paint them with no problem. The bottom door seal I routered into the bottom of the door, so this was not painted. But for the jamb seals I removed the rubber gasket, removed the stickers with Goo Gone and scuff-sanded the surface with a fine grip sandpaper. As these metal parts are made from aluminum, I wanted to simply scuff the existing finish vs. going all the way to bare aluminum so there was no chance of any raw aluminum oxidizing before I had the chance to prime and paint. It's been a few years, but I recall taping off the track where the gasket lies was a bit tricky as it became a balance between full coverage and not getting spray primer and pain in where the gaskets will be reinstalled. From there I used a quality metal spray primer and satin black paint. Although the flat black will bond well, I would recommend the satin sheen over the flat to give it a bit more protection from potential scratches and chips. If you are like me, you'd probably rather live with a very gentle sheen rather than scratches that are nearly impossible to touch up perfectly.
One tip I recall from when I last painted these things - Use some wire coat hangers and create a 3 or 4 inch right angle on one side and use the normal hanger bend on the other. Slip two hangers into the piece (obviously with the seals removed) with the right angle side going through the side mount screw holes and resting where the gasket was. I ended up making a ghetto spray booth in my garage by laying down some plastic on the floor and then hanging this big horizontal piece on the door track for our garage door. I was able to open a couple of windows and a service door in the garage to draft out the fumes. Once each piece had its two or three successive light coats of primer or paint I got my wife to help me move it to another garage door rail to dry by each of us grabbing an end of a coat hanger.
You shouldn't have to involve your wife if you put the coat hangers close enough at the 1/3 positions....but for some reason I had it in my head to use one coat hanger at each end.....so when it came time to move the first one I realized that the coat hangers were just outside of my wingspan, forcing me to get a second person to move the piece. That was idiot move # 1,736,921,097 for me....rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif


Thanks for the info and tip. Just what I needed.

I noticed the seals are 80" tall which is the same height as my door. My question is that there will obviously be a gap near the bottom after you add up the top and bottom clearance of the door itself within the frame. Did you just leave that gap at the bottom open? I think I have 3/8" clearance from the bottom of my door to the threshold.

One minor thing I did wrong was when I set my door handle depth. I went with a shorter depth to avoid colliding with my moulding; however, the door seals eat up some space...so it's closer to the handle than I'd like but it still clears it.


Regarding the D-Box actuator, they thought the unit had actually already been repaired (or attempted to be repaired). So that might explain why it was the first to fail. The dealer before me may have tried to repair it. It should be like brand new though now when they return it.
post #2069 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I noticed the seals are 80" tall which is the same height as my door. My question is that there will obviously be a gap near the bottom after you add up the top and bottom clearance of the door itself within the frame. Did you just leave that gap at the bottom open? I think I have 3/8" clearance from the bottom of my door to the threshold.

I recalled purchasing a 3-piece kit that would do a full door with seals - so two larger 80" pieces and a smaller piece of 36" which could be cut down if the door were any smaller. You do have a third door seal for the top, correct? Perhaps I am interpreting your statement incorrectly, but if you mount the top seal to the top of the door jamb first and then install the side seals by butting them up against the top seal, you will be flushing yourself down by about 1/2" (the thickness of the top seal), so this should eliminate your gaps. The bottom seal will then extend down and make the full seal complete when the door is closed. I hope this answers your question. Please let me know if it doesn't.
post #2070 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I recalled purchasing a 3-piece kit that would do a full door with seals - so two larger 80" pieces and a smaller piece of 36" which could be cut down if the door were any smaller. You do have a third door seal for the top, correct? Perhaps I am interpreting your statement incorrectly, but if you mount the top seal to the top of the door jamb first and then install the side seals by butting them up against the top seal, you will be flushing yourself down by about 1/2" (the thickness of the top seal), so this should eliminate your gaps. The bottom seal will then extend down and make the full seal complete when the door is closed. I hope this answers your question. Please let me know if it doesn't.

Yes - there are three pieces.

But the corners are cut at 45's. So you really don't drop by a 1/2" after installing the top 36" piece unless I'm not understanding the assembly right. So when installed as you butt the corners, the 80" piece is pretty much at the top of the door jamb...leaving the clearance area below the door still untreated.

Make sense?
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