How do you like your screen size for 16:9 viewing? Mainly TV and Sports? Do you have masking panels, do you find the screen big enough for the packers games?
Thank you very much for sharing your build and thanks again for the chat. This product looks amazing. Please get some dealers in the Northern California area.
You bet Tony. Glad you made it through the thread.
Our Remote Jump Start Program is our white glove service to remotely assist you in setting our system up should there not be a dealer in your area. So we've got you covered.
How do you like your screen size for 16:9 viewing? Mainly TV and Sports? Do you have masking panels, do you find the screen big enough for the packers games?
I think it worked out well and everyone who has been in there thought the players were larger than life. I haven't watched any TV in there, but have watched a few games.
I do have the Seymour AV AT masking panels. They are pretty cool and use magnets to attach to their frame.
So I've got a working virtual movie poster now that dynamically updates.
Here's how it works, once you select the movie from MainLobby for the dedicated movie player for the theater, the movie poster is instantly displayed on the Virtual Movie Poster LED.
The Start and End Time's are automatically calculated.
I also display the rating, year, aspect ratio and run time.
There's still a lot more I'd like to do but due to time constraints it'll have to wait. I'd like to add some light sheens to the movie poster soon though to help draw the eye to the screen. It would also be really easy to scroll the synopsis along the bottom. It definitely deserves some movement to take advantage of the technology.
Here's another look at it since the photo doesn't quite do it justice.
Le Sigh....
I wish I had never seen this. I'm approaching the end of my build and it is turning out just fine, now this makes me want to tear down the drywall at the theater entrance and add an extra hdmi and power cabling to support this killer feature! Nice job and implementation, the only thing it looks like you need to do is remove that logo on the tv.
Thanks for the wealth of info in your thread. I'm wondering if you've considered posting a post-mortum on any decisions that in hind-sight you wouldn't make again.
I think with so many people emulating pieces of your theater, this would be extremely helpful.
Personally, I'm wondering how your paint selections are holding up. I'm considering a very similar color scheme and could possibly use the same colors/brand/finish. I'm also wondering how the painted MDF panels/columns are holding up as I'm interesting in doing something similar.
Le Sigh....
I wish I had never seen this. I'm approaching the end of my build and it is turning out just fine, now this makes me want to tear down the drywall at the theater entrance and add an extra hdmi and power cabling to support this killer feature! Nice job and implementation, the only thing it looks like you need to do is remove that logo on the tv.
If you can sneak a cat5 near an outlet you could use a VGA balun to supply the video feed.
I did attempt to remove the TCL logo using GOOF OFF, but no luck. Maybe I just try rubbing alcohol.
Mario,
Thanks for the wealth of info in your thread. I'm wondering if you've considered posting a post-mortum on any decisions that in hind-sight you wouldn't make again.
I think with so many people emulating pieces of your theater, this would be extremely helpful.
Personally, I'm wondering how your paint selections are holding up. I'm considering a very similar color scheme and could possibly use the same colors/brand/finish. I'm also wondering how the painted MDF panels/columns are holding up as I'm interesting in doing something similar.
Thanks for all your time!
ScAndal,
You're welcome.
I know I did give some responses to what I would have done differently earlier in this thread.
One thing that comes to mind now is that I would have just sound proofed the theater foyer area too since I end up leaving the door to the theater open during games or family events where people are coming / going.
The paint is holding up great. You do see foot prints or finger prints on the steps and door from time to time. I've found a damp sponge works good for cleaning them up.
I haven't seen any issues with the painted MDF. The BIN did a great job of protecting and sealing the MDF.
Mario,
I only just looked at the final pics. Fabulous job!
The only thing I'm not sure about is whether you have actually built the theater or perfected the art of rendering it
Hi Moggie.
Thanks very much. Your theater was certainly a motivator for me to take on much of the work myself. So I must thank you for that. Especially when it came to tackling the oak stairs and bullnose.
Hopefully both our theaters will give back to the community for years to come.
Mario - I can't help but wonder how someone like yourself keeps dust from being a factor with that much black in your decor? Does that carpet you picked outnot produce a lot of dust? I just hooked up the Oppo 103 player and took the time to clean out my AV rack and it amazes me how much dust collects on our equipment.
I think HP makes a wireless hdmi setup that seems to work, around $100.
I was thinking more about your "Now Playing" poster, what happens when no movie is playing? If it is just blank then, you might consider a rotating set of art with a "Coming Soon" label at the top.
Mario - I can't help but wonder how someone like yourself keeps dust from being a factor with that much black in your decor? Does that carpet you picked outnot produce a lot of dust? I just hooked up the Oppo 103 player and took the time to clean out my AV rack and it amazes me how much dust collects on our equipment.
Hi Tony,
I guess I haven't noticed a lot of dust in there. There's not a lot of flat surfaces for dust to collect on and if it's sitting on the carpet I haven't noticed it.
I only run the fan/cool/heat when we're in the room so there's not alot of movement to push dust around.
I do see quite a bit of dust in other areas of our home since the build, so perhaps the black just helps hide it.
The central vac also helps in reducing the amount of dust since it all goes directly into the garage.
I definitely see a lot of dust near my AV racks though.
I think HP makes a wireless hdmi setup that seems to work, around $100.
I was thinking more about your "Now Playing" poster, what happens when no movie is playing? If it is just blank then, you might consider a rotating set of art with a "Coming Soon" label at the top.
Yeah. I know there are wireless options out there, but I don't have any personal experience with any of them. But that's a really good idea for someone who hasn't preplanned for it.
As of now, I haven't done anything beyond what you've seen. So it would show the same info for the time in between me selecting the next movie. Which for me isn't a big deal since the monitor is off unless I'm entertaining.
I could easily create another scene that it could switch to and display rotating posters. Skys the limit!
That's nice and everything, but I have to scroll past your theater summary and all of your pictures to actually get to the index, since you put it at the END of the first post.
Seriously though, thanks for taking the time to do that. Certainly not necessary, but like all of your other contributions, very much appreciated.
That's nice and everything, but I have to scroll past your theater summary and all of your pictures to actually get to the index, since you put it at the END of the first post.
Seriously though, thanks for taking the time to do that. Certainly not necessary, but like all of your other contributions, very much appreciated.
Poor Mario can't catch a break. (I was just about to post the same thing.)
Just excelent all around. I've been bookmarking things on this tread to refer back to. I can throw all that away now with the index. Thanks again.
Hi Mario, so now that you've spent some time viewing & listening in your room how does the room sound to you? Any complaints or are you happy with what you've done in terms of acoustics? So the bottom portion of the wall (MDF) and the acoustic panels are flush with one another or close? I'm guessing the acoustic panels are about 3/4" thick or thereabouts. Thanks, Tom.
Just remembered, where did you get the denim and how did you achieve the thickness needed?
Hi Mario, so now that you've spent some time viewing & listening in your room how does the room sound to you? Any complaints or are you happy with what you've done in terms of acoustics? So the bottom portion of the wall (MDF) and the acoustic panels are flush with one another or close? I'm guessing the acoustic panels are about 3/4" thick or thereabouts. Thanks, Tom.
Just remembered, where did you get the denim and how did you achieve the thickness needed?
Hi Tom,
I think it sounds good. But I'm not sure that I think it sounds phenomenal.
It could just be that the bass is still lacking or that the room is too dead. Don't get me wrong, it sounds better than anything I've experienced in my own personal home. But until I have a chance to play around with the next phase of room measurements, I won't be able to tell you if I can make it sound better.
I bought the denim from Vyron Corporation. The spec's I believe read 1" thick but it turned out to be 3/4". If you look in my thread, you'll see how I built the panels that the denim fit into using 3/4" thick pine boards.
The acoustic panels sit right on top of the 3/4" MDF on the lower third of the wall.
So I attempted to remove the TCL logo from my LED Movie Poster display. Unfortunately it dulled the shine on the front but it did remove the logo. It looks like they have a TCL indent any ways stamped in. So I probably should have left it there. It's not terrible, but just enough for it to bother me. I'll probably have to build a frame now for the front. I was thining of using 1/4" thick mdf and then layering it with some type of bondo so by the end it will look glossly and shiny. I avoided the bondo earlier in the build, but may now need to tackle it. I'm open to other ideas as well.
I also took my M&K MX350 sub out from the center of the room and was about to perform a sub crawl. I noticed that the magnet underneath is pulling away. I'll probably need to try to get that glued back in again. I thought maybe if I moved the sub to another area in the room I might get a little more punch in the money seat.
While moving my center chair back into position, I managed to put a small cut into the adjoining leather chair right near the arm rest. I put a little hot glue on the tear to prevent it from being opened up further.
So not a good night for me.
Back to the sub position, I moved it into the front right corner cabinet since that seemed to sound pretty good during the sub crawl.
However, during playback of some clips, the bass seemed rather localized and you could tell it was coming from the front right corner.
So at the end of it all, I moved it back to the center. Perhaps having two subs in bother corners would even things out.
Could you have a CINEMAR decal made to cover the area? Maybe one for each side (I like symmetry:D) you could have the letters oriented vertically so it looks like it was supposed to be there. If its gonna be branded, it might as well be your brand, right?
Could you try maybe buffing the area with some Meguiar's polish? I guess doesn't do anything about the indent though. The Cinemar logo is an interesting idea too.
Could you have a CINEMAR decal made to cover the area? Maybe one for each side (I like symmetry:D) you could have the letters oriented vertically so it looks like it was supposed to be there. If its gonna be branded, it might as well be your brand, right?
Great idea. But the dullness goes right up to the edge of the screen. Which you wouldn't want to put the decal right up to.
Could you try maybe buffing the area with some Meguiar's polish? I guess doesn't do anything about the indent though. The Cinemar logo is an interesting idea too.
Funny you should say that. I had tried Meguiar's ScratchX and I think it helped a little. Do you think their polish would do better?
The TCL black indent wouldn't bother me at all. Since it's still black on black and subtle.
I've only ever used the scratchx on metal, so not sure. I've used their products for polishing new lacquer finishes on wood, and it worked very well. I think they might also make a glass polish - they have so many products, I kind of get lost though.
I ran into this exact problem before with my Samsung LED tv and an IR emitter that had a really tiny dab of Super Glue on it to hold it in position since it seemed that no amount of the supplied replacement double-stick tape adhesive would hold. I tried to buff things clean and shiny on the plastic but to no avail whatsoever. Some things make it look a bit better, but you will always see it.
If you want it perfect, I would skip the Bondo, MDF frame, etc. Quite simply, I would mask off everything but the front facing part of the frame, do a very light scuff sand, then prime with plastic-grade primer and top with three to five coats of a high-gloss spray paint. You will obviously have to mask off any IR sensor if it is contained in the face frame. It will be perfect again in no time, provided you do a quality spray paint job with multiple light coats. Just my two cents.
Mario and Tim... are the LCD/LED displays you're referring to glass or plastic? If they are plastic Meguirs does make a product for polishing plastic called PlastX that has worked pretty well for me in automobile applications. Might be worth trying for 4 or 5 bucks before you go into crisis mode. Its fairly common and can be found at most Auto Zone's, Pep Boys, Walmart, etc. If it glass for both there are special compounds made by automotive cleaning product companies that DO work and should get rid of both issues. I'll try to reference some of them for you both. If I can find a more commercial use type product to recommend, I will.
Dont know if I posted here before Mario but I LOVE your theater. There's too many things I like to even post individual ones.
I'm subscribed and I've read all 80+ pages. I've been taking lots of notes and will continue to follow along.
The front of the Samsung was plastic. If it was glass it could have been scraped with a razor blade. The plastic polishing compounds do work to some extent, but are highly dependent on your technique, tools and time available to you. But it will be very difficult to get the same exact sheen in the "trouble spot" as the rest of the frame. So the alternative is to buff and polish the entire frame to get the same sheen throughout.
As it turned out, I got the Samsung TV so it looked presentable and can only be seen if you are looking at the frame from the side and in the right light. However, wince the affected area on Mario's display is essentially at eyeball height and you would routinely be walking right by it very closely, I am sure it will be noticed.....maybe only by Mario or an uber-OCD person like myself...but still a noticeable difference in luster. Mario could try to polish the plastic the best he can with these inexpensive plastic buffing products as a first attempt to correct the issue. But if it doesn't work out there is always spraying the entire frame or going the total concealment route of recreating the frame as Mario proposed. Edited by TMcG - 10/14/12 at 10:22pm
I pulled out my car cleaning supplies and tried some other products I had laying around. It did look a bit better after I tried a few of them. I think to the point that I can now live with it. I'd still like to try some of the meguiars PlastX (although it says its for clear plastic). Otherwise they have a polish that's also designed for darker colors so maybe that will do the trick. I'll need to stop into Autozone one of these days when I'm in the area. At this point, I'd rather not turn it into a large project of disassembling the bezel and everything for fear of just creating bigger problems.
But if I had to spray paint the frame, I'd probably end up going that route so I don't have to worry about masking.
This forum is great. Thanks guys for all the ideas and suggestions.