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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 83

post #2461 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Here are some pictures of the room EQ hardware that arrived. I haven't had a chance to do any measurements yet though.

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post #2462 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I was hoping I wouldn't be able to hear the furnace on the other side of the wall after the double wall, insulation and layer of OSB...but you it's still audible. I'm hoping that final layer of drywall and green glue will do the trick.

Were you able to eliminate the furnace noise?

I have similar layout & design, and am worried about furnace noise coming through the wall. I have one mechanical room that got the full DD + GG treatment on both sides of the wall, but my other mechanical room with 2 furnaces and an ERV has open stud bays and exposed insulation. Like yours, it's pretty busy.. mine also has gas lines & sewer pump and would be hard to effectively drywall because of all the various lines running in/out of the room.
post #2463 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

Were you able to eliminate the furnace noise?
I have similar layout & design, and am worried about furnace noise coming through the wall. I have one mechanical room that got the full DD + GG treatment on both sides of the wall, but my other mechanical room with 2 furnaces and an ERV has open stud bays and exposed insulation. Like yours, it's pretty busy.. mine also has gas lines & sewer pump and would be hard to effectively drywall because of all the various lines running in/out of the room.

I haven't noticed it since it hasn't been running given the weather lately. But I just turned on the air and you can hear it. It's somewhat of a low rumble and you'd probably only notice it if the room was really quiet.

If you have the chance and the drywallers are there, I'd recommend adding at least one layer of drywall and ideally two. Just so you don't have to wonder. smile.gif
post #2464 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I'm finally getting around to posting some pictures of the HSU VTF-15H sub that arrived. I had a chance to unbox it this past weekend. They really pack that thing well.
As of now, it's sitting in the cubby next to my patch panel (not shown in any of these pictures). I wanted to get some room measurements there before I place it in the front corner cabinet. It's so large I'll probably need some help getting it in the cabinet. I'm hoping the results will be better in the front cabinet since that's the ideal location.

I did do a test fit in the back corner of the room. When designing the room I made sure that this particular sub would fit in the corner and made sure to accomodate for the base board moulding and chair rail depth. It fits snugly in there...but again, I could see small kids getting their hands on it and/or bumping into it.

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I also built two custom subdude stands for two subs. I moved my M&K MX-350 into the right corner and onto one of these stands. I used some left-over 3/4" MDF and some rubber feet I bought from Parts-Express.

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post #2465 of 3008
Looks good, you'll also want to do testing with the various settings and plugs. In my current configuration I have one plug in. With the size of your room you may want both plugs out.

One of the things I like about the 15H is the ability to fine tune it between ported an "mostly" sealed. I'm also running a Klipsch sealed sub in my back corner.

That puppie is heavy, I wouldn't try putting it into a cabinet by yourself.
post #2466 of 3008
Mario-

Not sure if I commented previously but you really did a fantastic job with your theater. I thought you mentioned in your build that you had very little if any woodworking experience prior to this project. You would make one hell of a carpenter.

-Dave
post #2467 of 3008
Great build, congratulations. I'll be going through it all for inspiration if only I can find the time during my own late night designing/planning. I only found 1 picture of the MA slim 5 rack, does anyone know if there are more somewhere that I missed? Thx.
post #2468 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

Looks good, you'll also want to do testing with the various settings and plugs. In my current configuration I have one plug in. With the size of your room you may want both plugs out.
One of the things I like about the 15H is the ability to fine tune it between ported an "mostly" sealed. I'm also running a Klipsch sealed sub in my back corner.
That puppie is heavy, I wouldn't try putting it into a cabinet by yourself.

Yeah. There's a lot of config options with that sub. On top of that, throw in the position of the sub and all the Onkyo/Audyssey settings, it makes it difficult to determine the best settings
But it's good to have options.

That thing is heavy. But more so, just really large. WHich makes it challenging to lift by yourself. I'm really thankful to have the walkout basement. It allowed me to get it into the basement myself using a dolly. The double sliding basement doors also make it easy to muscle in large items too.

I'm anxiuos to hear how it sounds against the front wall.
post #2469 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

Mario-
Not sure if I commented previously but you really did a fantastic job with your theater. I thought you mentioned in your build that you had very little if any woodworking experience prior to this project. You would make one hell of a carpenter.
-Dave

Thanks Dave. Great compliment coming from you.

I really enjoyed learning all the wood working skills along the way. Hopfully I'll be able to continue to put them to use around the house now.
post #2470 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Great build, congratulations. I'll be going through it all for inspiration if only I can find the time during my own late night designing/planning. I only found 1 picture of the MA slim 5 rack, does anyone know if there are more somewhere that I missed? Thx.

I haven't posted many pics of my MA Slim 5 Rack. I've actually moved things around slightly to allow for better air flow. I had my three Russound CAV/CAM's all stacked on top of each other. I left a little space in between them and now they are breathing nicely.

I definitely need to clean things up a bit in the second rack and will once I nail everything down.

I like having the racks on wheels. It allows me to get behind them fairly easy. However, with two racks and cables that go between the two, you have to ensure you leave enough slack to roll them in/out.
post #2471 of 3008
Thread Starter 
A bit off topic. I took on a small project this weekend using some scrap material left over from the theater.

I've been wanting to convert my shuffleboard table into a buffet table. We'd been using the back bar area but it just wasn't enough room when we entertain for things like the Superbowl and have a lot of dishes.

Initially I was going to build a complete cover using some type or wood or mdf and then wrap it with some type of vinyl. Research found that the vinyl wouldn't be a good idea for hot dishes. So my Dad gave me the idea to use two 6' plastic tables which we already had.

So I built these supports to fit snuggly inside the table.
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Then I stapled some grippy tool box liners all around the supports to keep them from scratching the shuffleboard table and to keep the plastic tables in place.
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I'll now be able to fit two tables perfectly on top of the shuffleboard table. I'll add a table cloth to dress it up.
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The folding tables are about a 3/4" shorter than the shuffleboard table width, so I'm going to add a 3/4" stop on the wall side of the supports so it makes it easier for me to just set the tables on top and align them perfectly each time. I thought someone else with a shuffleboard may want to do the same.
Edited by mcascio - 10/31/12 at 6:52am
post #2472 of 3008
Patiently waiting to hear your feedback on your newest addition (HSU sub).

Thanks for your support of the community, your work is definately an inspiration.
Edited by zapco - 11/5/12 at 4:19pm
post #2473 of 3008
subscribed
post #2474 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I finally got around to moving the HSU VTF-15H into my right front corner.

But before doing so, I made a 1:1 sized reproduction of the back panel graphic. I knew I'd have to reach over the top from time to time and make some adjustments. The graphic allows me to feel my way around and make some quick adjustments.

I've included the printable graphic for anyone else who has the same sub. I just set it on the top of the back of the sub.
IMG_1908_small.jpg

HSU Cheat Sheet.jpg

First impressions of this sub are really good. It does dig deep. There are lots of settings that you can tweak to vary your results. And the balance with the two subs in each front corner seems to work good. There's a note in the beginning of Tron that I never even new existed!

I've found my M&K 350 sub can also go very deep when you take it out of THX mode settings. One thing I've noticed with both of these subs digging so low is that my sound proofing may have needed more. If I go to near reference levels, the floor above does vibrate.

Perhaps another layer of drywall may have solved the problem...but not sure. It's still magical that I can listen at the levels I can without disturbing the family upstairs.

I've been tweaking the speakers in the room as well and tinkering with some of the Onkyo settings based on THX settings to see how things sound. Chris from M&K was nice enough to spend two hours with me on the phone last week going over everything within the Onkyo to prep me for using REW.

I've angled my front LCR's down just a bit to target the primary listening position and verified that the wides are also at the same level as the fronts. I moved my LR speakers out to the very edge of the inside of the projection screen.
I also configured my M&K SS-150's for Heights and Wides to be in Direct Radiating mode instead of Tripole mode. The sound in the room is continually improving.

My next thing I'd like to do is get some insulation in at least the bottom half of all the speaker columns to prevent any resonance that may be happening. I think I've asked this before and not got an answer, but is there any benefit using OC703 instead of fluffy insulation in the speaker columns?
post #2475 of 3008
It's good to see that you are working at it. You hadn't posted in a while; I was worried you had been sucked into watching movies and there wouldn't be any more progress. wink.gif

I remember thinking (when you asked before) that I didn't think there was a meaningful difference between OC703 and R19 (or whatever else) for that application. I don't have any data, but I feel comfortable enough for my own purposes that I would just use what was handy.
post #2476 of 3008
Mario, your hard work and dedication is truly and inspiration. I love your theater!

Subscribed.
post #2477 of 3008
What did you use to determine the radius for your riser? I Dont have my seats yet. I would assume that all seats are fairly close. What is your radius, if you posted it already im sorry i couldnt find it.
post #2478 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by allybuck64 View Post

What did you use to determine the radius for your riser? I Dont have my seats yet. I would assume that all seats are fairly close. What is your radius, if you posted it already im sorry i couldnt find it.

allybuck64,

It's actually somewhat of an oval rather than a circle. I had to cheat it a bit to make things work for the room. My goal was to closely match the curve in my seating...all curves were pretty much based off the seats. I imported a top down view of my seats from the Berkline website and made an oval to match the backs of the seats.

Then, I plotted points (measuring out then in) from the 3D software onto the wood when it came time to make the first curve.
post #2479 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SITheater View Post

Mario, your hard work and dedication is truly and inspiration. I love your theater!
Subscribed.

Thanks so much SITheater.
post #2480 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

It's good to see that you are working at it. You hadn't posted in a while; I was worried you had been sucked into watching movies and there wouldn't be any more progress. wink.gif
I remember thinking (when you asked before) that I didn't think there was a meaningful difference between OC703 and R19 (or whatever else) for that application. I don't have any data, but I feel comfortable enough for my own purposes that I would just use what was handy.

I'm dreading working with the insulation again...so I've been putting off getting them into the columns.

After doing my entire basement and so much of it in the theater, It's left a bad taste in my mouth...literally. smile.gif
post #2481 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'm dreading working with the insulation again...so I've been putting off getting them into the columns.
After doing my entire basement and so much of it in the theater, It's left a bad taste in my mouth...literally. smile.gif

i don't about you but MDF has put the worse taste of all in mine..... omg was drilling the holes for the lights my gosh did that stink
post #2482 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

i don't about you but MDF has put the worse taste of all in mine..... omg was drilling the holes for the lights my gosh did that stink

I bought a nice mask with filters at Home Depot that I started making good use of. Cement board is even worse than MDF because it is so fine. From what I've heard it's dangerous too. I know I had sinus issues for a couple months after dealing with cutting cement boards.
post #2483 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I bought a nice mask with filters at Home Depot that I started making good use of. Cement board is even worse than MDF because it is so fine. From what I've heard it's dangerous too. I know I had sinus issues for a couple months after dealing with cutting cement boards.

i have not had to cut cement board yet but going to invest in mask for sure i know i have blown a few pounds of mdf dust out of nose LOL!!
post #2484 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Anybody try one of these in their theaters: Laser Stars Indoor Light Show
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBNIP2/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_ST1_3p_dp_1

I bought one a couple months back and never got around to posting my results. My sister saw it in a commercial building and asked what it was.

I think it's very cool and the blue blobs create a really cool effect. Not so sure I liked the green stars since they started to look repetitive.

The major downside with this device though is it's impossible at least in my room to hide it and project it without getting in the viewers eyes.

The fan is a bit too loud as well. Great for a kids room though in my opinion.
post #2485 of 3008
Just curious - why are you guys cutting (instead of scoring and snapping) the cement board?
post #2486 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I know the GOM Fabric I used is pretty popular. And I'm sure alot of you also have black seats. So I'm hoping someone has already found some good throw blankets and pillows for their theater that match the GOM Claret Accent Red:
418.jpg

Ideally I can also pull out the gold in my carpet.

Here's a room image for reference.
render791_small.jpg

I found this red plaid throw at sears:
http://www.sears.com/cozy-nights-by-cannon-fleece-throw-plaid/p-096VA52240012P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
post #2487 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I know the GOM Fabric I used is pretty popular. And I'm sure alot of you also have black seats. So I'm hoping someone has already found some good throw blankets and pillows for their theater that match the GOM Claret Accent Red:
418.jpg
Ideally I can also pull out the gold in my carpet.
Here's a room image for reference.
render791_small.jpg
I found this red plaid throw at sears:
http://www.sears.com/cozy-nights-by-cannon-fleece-throw-plaid/p-096VA52240012P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

Those look good!

I have the same GOM/carpet, and these red Target throws work as well. Brown seating.
http://www.target.com/p/fuzzy-throw-red/-/A-14193208?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=Google_PLA_df&LNM=%7C14193208&CPNG=Bedding&kpid=14193208&LID=PA&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=14193208

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post #2488 of 3008
Quote:
Just curious - why are you guys cutting (instead of scoring and snapping) the cement board?

In my case, the actual cement board (as opposed to backer board) cut EXTREMELY easy and with less dust with the Diablo 4-tooth blade made for it. Now, for backer board, I bought the scoring tool and scored and snapped. I tried scoring with all kinds of sharp objects, but the tool was the way to go.
post #2489 of 3008
Mario,

What thickness material did you use on your front stage to make the arc?
post #2490 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Mario,
What thickness material did you use on your front stage to make the arc?

Hi Larry,

We used pine 1x's to do the front bending arc.



More pics in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1208912/the-cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread/720#post_21093428
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