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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 84

post #2491 of 2754
Thread Starter 
I finally got around to moving the HSU VTF-15H into my right front corner.

But before doing so, I made a 1:1 sized reproduction of the back panel graphic. I knew I'd have to reach over the top from time to time and make some adjustments. The graphic allows me to feel my way around and make some quick adjustments.

I've included the printable graphic for anyone else who has the same sub. I just set it on the top of the back of the sub.
IMG_1908_small.jpg

HSU Cheat Sheet.jpg

First impressions of this sub are really good. It does dig deep. There are lots of settings that you can tweak to vary your results. And the balance with the two subs in each front corner seems to work good. There's a note in the beginning of Tron that I never even new existed!

I've found my M&K 350 sub can also go very deep when you take it out of THX mode settings. One thing I've noticed with both of these subs digging so low is that my sound proofing may have needed more. If I go to near reference levels, the floor above does vibrate.

Perhaps another layer of drywall may have solved the problem...but not sure. It's still magical that I can listen at the levels I can without disturbing the family upstairs.

I've been tweaking the speakers in the room as well and tinkering with some of the Onkyo settings based on THX settings to see how things sound. Chris from M&K was nice enough to spend two hours with me on the phone last week going over everything within the Onkyo to prep me for using REW.

I've angled my front LCR's down just a bit to target the primary listening position and verified that the wides are also at the same level as the fronts. I moved my LR speakers out to the very edge of the inside of the projection screen.
I also configured my M&K SS-150's for Heights and Wides to be in Direct Radiating mode instead of Tripole mode. The sound in the room is continually improving.

My next thing I'd like to do is get some insulation in at least the bottom half of all the speaker columns to prevent any resonance that may be happening. I think I've asked this before and not got an answer, but is there any benefit using OC703 instead of fluffy insulation in the speaker columns?
post #2492 of 2754
It's good to see that you are working at it. You hadn't posted in a while; I was worried you had been sucked into watching movies and there wouldn't be any more progress. wink.gif

I remember thinking (when you asked before) that I didn't think there was a meaningful difference between OC703 and R19 (or whatever else) for that application. I don't have any data, but I feel comfortable enough for my own purposes that I would just use what was handy.
post #2493 of 2754
Mario, your hard work and dedication is truly and inspiration. I love your theater!

Subscribed.
post #2494 of 2754
What did you use to determine the radius for your riser? I Dont have my seats yet. I would assume that all seats are fairly close. What is your radius, if you posted it already im sorry i couldnt find it.
post #2495 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by allybuck64 View Post

What did you use to determine the radius for your riser? I Dont have my seats yet. I would assume that all seats are fairly close. What is your radius, if you posted it already im sorry i couldnt find it.

allybuck64,

It's actually somewhat of an oval rather than a circle. I had to cheat it a bit to make things work for the room. My goal was to closely match the curve in my seating...all curves were pretty much based off the seats. I imported a top down view of my seats from the Berkline website and made an oval to match the backs of the seats.

Then, I plotted points (measuring out then in) from the 3D software onto the wood when it came time to make the first curve.
post #2496 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SITheater View Post

Mario, your hard work and dedication is truly and inspiration. I love your theater!
Subscribed.

Thanks so much SITheater.
post #2497 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

It's good to see that you are working at it. You hadn't posted in a while; I was worried you had been sucked into watching movies and there wouldn't be any more progress. wink.gif
I remember thinking (when you asked before) that I didn't think there was a meaningful difference between OC703 and R19 (or whatever else) for that application. I don't have any data, but I feel comfortable enough for my own purposes that I would just use what was handy.

I'm dreading working with the insulation again...so I've been putting off getting them into the columns.

After doing my entire basement and so much of it in the theater, It's left a bad taste in my mouth...literally. smile.gif
post #2498 of 2754
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'm dreading working with the insulation again...so I've been putting off getting them into the columns.
After doing my entire basement and so much of it in the theater, It's left a bad taste in my mouth...literally. smile.gif

i don't about you but MDF has put the worse taste of all in mine..... omg was drilling the holes for the lights my gosh did that stink
post #2499 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

i don't about you but MDF has put the worse taste of all in mine..... omg was drilling the holes for the lights my gosh did that stink

I bought a nice mask with filters at Home Depot that I started making good use of. Cement board is even worse than MDF because it is so fine. From what I've heard it's dangerous too. I know I had sinus issues for a couple months after dealing with cutting cement boards.
post #2500 of 2754
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I bought a nice mask with filters at Home Depot that I started making good use of. Cement board is even worse than MDF because it is so fine. From what I've heard it's dangerous too. I know I had sinus issues for a couple months after dealing with cutting cement boards.

i have not had to cut cement board yet but going to invest in mask for sure i know i have blown a few pounds of mdf dust out of nose LOL!!
post #2501 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Anybody try one of these in their theaters: Laser Stars Indoor Light Show
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBNIP2/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_ST1_3p_dp_1

I bought one a couple months back and never got around to posting my results. My sister saw it in a commercial building and asked what it was.

I think it's very cool and the blue blobs create a really cool effect. Not so sure I liked the green stars since they started to look repetitive.

The major downside with this device though is it's impossible at least in my room to hide it and project it without getting in the viewers eyes.

The fan is a bit too loud as well. Great for a kids room though in my opinion.
post #2502 of 2754
Just curious - why are you guys cutting (instead of scoring and snapping) the cement board?
post #2503 of 2754
Thread Starter 
I know the GOM Fabric I used is pretty popular. And I'm sure alot of you also have black seats. So I'm hoping someone has already found some good throw blankets and pillows for their theater that match the GOM Claret Accent Red:
418.jpg

Ideally I can also pull out the gold in my carpet.

Here's a room image for reference.
render791_small.jpg

I found this red plaid throw at sears:
http://www.sears.com/cozy-nights-by-cannon-fleece-throw-plaid/p-096VA52240012P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
post #2504 of 2754
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I know the GOM Fabric I used is pretty popular. And I'm sure alot of you also have black seats. So I'm hoping someone has already found some good throw blankets and pillows for their theater that match the GOM Claret Accent Red:
418.jpg
Ideally I can also pull out the gold in my carpet.
Here's a room image for reference.
render791_small.jpg
I found this red plaid throw at sears:
http://www.sears.com/cozy-nights-by-cannon-fleece-throw-plaid/p-096VA52240012P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

Those look good!

I have the same GOM/carpet, and these red Target throws work as well. Brown seating.
http://www.target.com/p/fuzzy-throw-red/-/A-14193208?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=Google_PLA_df&LNM=%7C14193208&CPNG=Bedding&kpid=14193208&LID=PA&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=14193208

IMG_0238.jpg

IMG_0215-1.jpg
post #2505 of 2754
Quote:
Just curious - why are you guys cutting (instead of scoring and snapping) the cement board?

In my case, the actual cement board (as opposed to backer board) cut EXTREMELY easy and with less dust with the Diablo 4-tooth blade made for it. Now, for backer board, I bought the scoring tool and scored and snapped. I tried scoring with all kinds of sharp objects, but the tool was the way to go.
post #2506 of 2754
Mario,

What thickness material did you use on your front stage to make the arc?
post #2507 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Mario,
What thickness material did you use on your front stage to make the arc?

Hi Larry,

We used pine 1x's to do the front bending arc.



More pics in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1208912/the-cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread/720#post_21093428
post #2508 of 2754
Where did you get yor roll of ecoshield? I called the titus dealar in my area and he could not get just the denim by the roll.
post #2509 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by allybuck64 View Post

Where did you get yor roll of ecoshield? I called the titus dealar in my area and he could not get just the denim by the roll.

Given that I had it drop-shipped to me anyways, I don't really think it matters if you find it locally.

I bought it through http://www.vyron.com/ (Brookfield, Wi Branch) - ask for Tim Barham.

Hope that helps.
post #2510 of 2754
Thread Starter 
I converted an old HP touchsmart PC into a MegaTouch gaming station at the bar outside the theater.

Much less expensive going this route. I can also turn it into a jukebox and run MainLobby on it as well.

It's been working out really well and adds a nice gaming element to the bar area.




post #2511 of 2754
mcascio your bar area looks really nice. Did you build the bar or was it made for you?

I ask as I have a small bar height area in my build and I am looking for finishing design ideas as its currently faced in plywood.
post #2512 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexMan View Post

mcascio your bar area looks really nice. Did you build the bar or was it made for you?
I ask as I have a small bar height area in my build and I am looking for finishing design ideas as its currently faced in plywood.

I designed the bar using cabinetry from Lowe's. I used cabinet doors to create the front panel looking design on the face of the bar.

If you look back earlier in my thread, you'll find more detailed designs of the bar. I used a variety of mouldings to create the finished look.
post #2513 of 2754
Mario, does MegaTouch run in a windows environment, or does it run in Linux or on top of it's own custom OS? What was the process of 'converting' the PC into the station (I'm an IT professional so I don't get scared by the "tech talk" and whatnot).
MegaTouch's website doesn't really get very specific.

(I apologize if you mentioned this previously in the thread, I couldn't find any reference.)
post #2514 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tephlon View Post

Mario, does MegaTouch run in a windows environment, or does it run in Linux or on top of it's own custom OS? What was the process of 'converting' the PC into the station (I'm an IT professional so I don't get scared by the "tech talk" and whatnot).
MegaTouch's website doesn't really get very specific.
(I apologize if you mentioned this previously in the thread, I couldn't find any reference.)

Sorry. My post may have been misleading. It's still a standard Windows PC running Windows software...I'm just using it to emulate a MegaTouch type gaming system.

I'm using games from PopCap. I'm planning to eliminate the windows look and feel using MainLobby.

I can set it up to list all the various games available on the system, they click the icon to launch the game. When they exit that game, it will bring them back to the same graphical menu listing all the available games.

Check out www.popcap.com - they've got some nice games. Bejeweled 2 is a fan favorite.
post #2515 of 2754
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I installed some 1/4" oak over the edges of the double layer OSB behind the front row.




Then I routed all edges on the remaining bull noses and dry fitted everything to make sure I was in good shape. I used a 1/2" round over bit on the fronts and a 1/8" round over bit on the back side edge that faces the carpeting. I'm using biscuit joints to connect them. But next phase will be installing the base shoe underneath.







I wanted sharp edges at the corners. So I routed each piece individually. To prevent from rounding the corner, which is easy to do, I'd butt a scrap piece of wood right next to the piece I was routing so I could route right through the end.

What size did your step nosings end up? I guess what I am asking is how deep are they and how much of an overhand did you go with? I need to make some for my riser and I was thinking about using 1x4 oak with the 1/2 x 3/4 shoe that you used. Mine is straight across so it would end up 3 1/2" deep and I was thinking about a 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" overhang. Besides adhesive, how did you attach the nosings to the OSB decking? Did you countersink screws and then fill the holes?
post #2516 of 2754
1-1/4" is the maximum permissible by code. My pre-milled landing tread is 3-1/2" wide with a 1-1/4" overhang.
post #2517 of 2754
Thread Starter 
Tim is right. You don't want to go beyond 1 1/4".

Mine was 3.5" wide with a 1 1/8" overhang. That left room to mount the LED strips as well.

This post here has some pretty good photos and details about how I attached the bull nose:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1208912/the-cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread/1470#post_21827098

Picture from post above:
post #2518 of 2754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

1-1/4" is the maximum permissible by code. My pre-milled landing tread is 3-1/2" wide with a 1-1/4" overhang.

Is that a national code? The main staircase in our home has a 2" overhang on the treads (built in 2006).
post #2519 of 2754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Is that a national code? The main staircase in our home has a 2" overhang on the treads (built in 2006).

Each State adopts their own codes, but the majority use the International Codes. A quick google seems to indicate Houston uses the 2006 International Residential Code. A 2" overhang is unsafe, IMHO. You should have 10" measured from nose-to-nose of the tread (NOT from the face of the riser to the nose of the tread). When I have seen the larger overhangs it was usually in an ill conceived attempt to meet the minimum tread depth, which it does not do.

I nearly fell down a flight that had a 2" overhang but was 7-1/2" nose-to-nose. Going up was not bad.

(sorry to clutter the thread)

Tim
post #2520 of 2754
could you post a few pictures of what the screen looks like when you have those magnetic panels on it to change the aspect ratio? with and with out something being played? Im curious to see how that looks.
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