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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 86

post #2551 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I needed an easy way to charge, store and keep safe all the 3D glasses at once.

So I used a rackmount cable management D-ring from Monoprice. I had plenty of space left over in my Patch Panel cabinet in the theater so it worked out great.

I used this 10 port USB hub and a power supply.
IMG_2160_small.jpg

Then routed all the cables up to the D-rings.

IMG_2162_small.jpg

IMG_2163_small.jpg

I only plan on stocking seven 3D glasses, but I could easily hold 10 with this sytem if not more. It's nice to be able to charge, store and keep the glasses protected all at the same time.

Thought this might be helpful to other's with 3D glasses.
post #2552 of 3008
Great idea.

Mario you did an amazing job, looks extremely professional, actually probably better then most 100k HTs!
post #2553 of 3008
Hi Mario,

I am just about to start on my new cinema room. I am looking at the Panasonic PT-AE8000U but the sales rep is trying to push me toward the JVC DLA-X55.

I will also have a room similar in size to yourself and considering an 150" 2:35.1 screen.

Could you please tell me your projected heigh x width for 2:35.1 and 16.9?

Also did you contemplate any other brands than panasonic before choosing? What was the main reasons for the decision?


Cheers from OZ.
post #2554 of 3008
Man, yet another ingenious solution that keeps this theater just top-notch... Nice work!! smile.gif
post #2555 of 3008
Mario,

Love the 3D glasses idea. Was thinking of something similar, but your solution is, well, better. Which 10-port hub did you use? I've found several similar on The Big River, but can't find an exact match (perhaps vendor pictures are not accurate.)
post #2556 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

Great idea.
Mario you did an amazing job, looks extremely professional, actually probably better then most 100k HTs!

Wow. Thanks. I really appreciate the compliment.
post #2557 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendanb21 View Post

Hi Mario,
I am just about to start on my new cinema room. I am looking at the Panasonic PT-AE8000U but the sales rep is trying to push me toward the JVC DLA-X55.
I will also have a room similar in size to yourself and considering an 150" 2:35.1 screen.
Could you please tell me your projected heigh x width for 2:35.1 and 16.9?
Also did you contemplate any other brands than panasonic before choosing? What was the main reasons for the decision?
Cheers from OZ.

Hi brendanb21,

I really liked my Panasonic AE-4000u so I knew I was going to like the Panasonic AE8000U. I knew my current mount would work no problem and I also looked at all the reviews on the Ae8000U. So I was pretty confident with that model from the get go. I like the fact that it can auto-switch between 2.35 and 16:9 content which some other mfg's didn't have. I liked the added 3D ability and the rave reviews it got over other mfg's.

I looked at comparably priced Sony, JVC and Epson models. But just from the online reviews I read I felt more comfortable with the AE8000U. I'm very happy with my decision, but I never had a chance to see the others in action.

My 2.35 screen is 136" wide by 57.8" tall.

Ideally you could see both together.
post #2558 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Man, yet another ingenious solution that keeps this theater just top-notch... Nice work!! smile.gif

Thanks as usual cowger!
post #2559 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by roknrol View Post

Mario,
Love the 3D glasses idea. Was thinking of something similar, but your solution is, well, better. Which 10-port hub did you use? I've found several similar on The Big River, but can't find an exact match (perhaps vendor pictures are not accurate.)

I really lucked out having all the extra space in my patch panel cabinet in the theater. Beats having to drag them to my media closet to store and charge.

Do a search on ebay for 10 port usb hub and I'm sure you'll find the same one I bought.
post #2560 of 3008
Thanks Mario for the reply,

The sales guy i have been dealing with told me the that the he didnt think the panny could light up a 140" wide screen good enough and 3D would be too dark.
From your pics thou it seems plenty bright.

Cheers again.
post #2561 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendanb21 View Post

Thanks Mario for the reply,
The sales guy i have been dealing with told me the that the he didnt think the panny could light up a 140" wide screen good enough and 3D would be too dark.
From your pics thou it seems plenty bright.
Cheers again.

I don't have a way to read how bright my projector is...plus it's uncalibrated. From what I understand a calibrated projector will most likely produce less light.

To my eye, out of the box, it's certainly brighter than my AE4000U was. And there are certain scenes where they go from dark to bright that are almost blinding and you have to look away.

This my unprofessional opinion though. Someone who has installed both of the models in question would be able to provide more helpful information.

I've been running in normal mode. I could probably get away with ECO mode to quiet the fan but have opted not to.

It's like everything else, unless you have something to compare it to, it's sometimes difficult to make a true assessment.
post #2562 of 3008
3 nights and tired mornings later I finished this amazing build! It looks like you moved from someone that dabbled in carpentry and trim work to an expert within the project. Being someone that learned along the way during their build I can appreciate and respect that! You did an amazing job with the execution of EVERY detail! I am ven more pleased to see that this is a local build here in Kenosha county. I actually stumbled across your CL ad for the 4000 and saw the theater pic. there... I will keep you posted about any local meets and I look forward to perhaps sharing our theater experiences at some point in the future!

Keep up the great work!
post #2563 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dynfan View Post

3 nights and tired mornings later I finished this amazing build! It looks like you moved from someone that dabbled in carpentry and trim work to an expert within the project. Being someone that learned along the way during their build I can appreciate and respect that! You did an amazing job with the execution of EVERY detail! I am ven more pleased to see that this is a local build here in Kenosha county. I actually stumbled across your CL ad for the 4000 and saw the theater pic. there... I will keep you posted about any local meets and I look forward to perhaps sharing our theater experiences at some point in the future!
Keep up the great work!

Thanks Wes.

I should start handing out awards to anyone that manages to get through this entire thread from start to finish. smile.gif

I look forward to getting together with you and other locals to share stories and more importantly beer. smile.gif
post #2564 of 3008
Thread Starter 
This past weekend, I met with my old friend insulation.

I had enough left over from the project to fill the lower half of all the columns below the chair rail.

I'm going to hold off on filling the top portion for now. I may opt for something more finger friendly since I may need to pull it out from time to time. I'd like something that stays together fairly well and doesn't shed on the carpet.

Any ideas? Cotton batting?
post #2565 of 3008
Depends on what you are trying to achieve by adding insulation; bass trapping, reducing a hollow sound, etc... One thing I didn't see in the thread is where you specifically placed your acoustic treatments (the recycled) denim and my suggestion might vary based on the answer to the placement of other acoustic treatments as well as what to do with each column.

I am still working on my room treatments with OC 703 as well as some other methods using diffusion and bass traps that are not simply stacked 703. I am by NO means an expert in the field however I have a solid grasp on theory behind placement and woul dbe MORE than happy to assit in any way possible there; preferably over a good beer.
post #2566 of 3008
How do you like your LED strip lights? Based on the link you provided in an old post it looks like they probably have 3 LED's every 4 inches. I noticed some sites sell some with double the LED's.....for more $$. Do you find your lights bright enough, they sure look good in the pics.
post #2567 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dynfan View Post

Depends on what you are trying to achieve by adding insulation; bass trapping, reducing a hollow sound, etc... One thing I didn't see in the thread is where you specifically placed your acoustic treatments (the recycled) denim and my suggestion might vary based on the answer to the placement of other acoustic treatments as well as what to do with each column.

I am still working on my room treatments with OC 703 as well as some other methods using diffusion and bass traps that are not simply stacked 703. I am by NO means an expert in the field however I have a solid grasp on theory behind placement and woul dbe MORE than happy to assit in any way possible there; preferably over a good beer.

I think the rule of thumb is to fill any hollow cavities with regular insulation; however, I think since the upper portion of my columns have openings for the speakers, they may be better used for other acoustic treatments such as bass traps or diffusion.

I'll get in touch with you Wes via PM or phone. Perhaps we can get together soon if our schedules permit.
post #2568 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

How do you like your LED strip lights? Based on the link you provided in an old post it looks like they probably have 3 LED's every 4 inches. I noticed some sites sell some with double the LED's.....for more $$. Do you find your lights bright enough, they sure look good in the pics.

I really like the LED strips. Much brighter than the ones I bought several years ago for 4x the price.

Mine have 3 Led's every 2 inches.
post #2569 of 3008
I'm pouring over your design specifications for your lobby bar, and I really love the design for the hidden light strip while avoiding corbels for support of the granite top. If you don't mind, I have a few questions:

1. It looks like early on, you had some little, metal brackets for support of the top -- but I don't see those in the final pictures. Did you remove those or are they "hidden" in some way?

2. If I'm adding correctly, the amount of the granite top cantilevered without support is about 8.25 inches -- is that about correct? (18" top - [8.25" wall build out + 1.5" overhang on bar side])

3. How did you build out the three end columns? It looks like a 4"x4" with an additional 2"x4" on each side. Is that correct?
post #2570 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I really like the LED strips. Much brighter than the ones I bought several years ago for 4x the price.

Mine have 3 Led's every 2 inches.

I was hoping you didn't have the strip with 3 every 2"....now I have to decide if the cheaper ones will be bright enough confused.gif
Have you seen all the cool controllers you can add to these lights: http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=94
post #2571 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I should start handing out awards to anyone that manages to get through this entire thread from start to finish. smile.gif

No need for awards, the content is reward enough.
post #2572 of 3008
Now if you can get through Logan's thread from start to finish, that would be...oh wait.
post #2573 of 3008
HEY! I can hear you, you know.
post #2574 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by roknrol View Post

I'm pouring over your design specifications for your lobby bar, and I really love the design for the hidden light strip while avoiding corbels for support of the granite top. If you don't mind, I have a few questions:

1. It looks like early on, you had some little, metal brackets for support of the top -- but I don't see those in the final pictures. Did you remove those or are they "hidden" in some way?

2. If I'm adding correctly, the amount of the granite top cantilevered without support is about 8.25 inches -- is that about correct? (18" top - [8.25" wall build out + 1.5" overhang on bar side])

3. How did you build out the three end columns? It looks like a 4"x4" with an additional 2"x4" on each side. Is that correct?


Hi Roknrol,

1. Yeah - I went through all this trouble of trying to add supports to the bar...must have made half a dozen trips to a variety of stores and hours trying to hide them in the design. Then the counter guy shows up and says I don't even need them. smile.gif So I took them out.

2. Yes - you have the measurements correct give or take an 1/8" here or there.

3. Two of the corners were built with just 4x4's surround by 3/4" maple. The corner at the elbow of the "L" does have an extra 2x4 on each side plus the 3/4" maple wrap. If you look back in my thread you can see the pics showing this.


Hope that helps.
post #2575 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I was hoping you didn't have the strip with 3 every 2"....now I have to decide if the cheaper ones will be bright enough confused.gif
Have you seen all the cool controllers you can add to these lights: http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=94

I think my initial order through Amazon had the less expensive ones and then the more expensive ones. When they arrived they were identical. Go figure.

The packaging reads: Hitlights: 5050-60LED/M

I haven't looked at any of the controllers out there.

I seem to pretty much leave the colors the same. The only thing I really do is turn the step lights brighter when small kids or large crowds of drinking adults are present. Otherwise I have the step lights set to a very dim dark blue that is just enough to reveal where the steps are.

The ceiling I pretty much use the blue all the time.
post #2576 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

No need for awards, the content is reward enough.

Cool. Thanks.
post #2577 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

HEY! I can hear you, you know.

Too funny. Your ears must have been ringing. smile.gif
post #2578 of 3008
Thread Starter 
After adding the 3D glasses rack to my Patch Panel cabinet, I thought a little more light would make sense.

So I used one of my left over LED strips to line the inside perimeter of the cabinet. It is much easier now to see.

I'm also planning to put put some OC703 in the back of the cabinet since it's in the corner. I can tell the bass is really boomy back there. Just wish I had room for 4" instead of just 2".

IMG_2172_small.jpg
post #2579 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I've also noticed my electric bills rising so I'm always trying to find ways to reduce the energy usage.

I know the theater uses quite a bit but all the equipment gets powered down.

But since I have motion detectors in all the rooms and touch screens in quite a few, I've set up the screens to power down after 60 minutes of inactivity. Then whenever, someone walks in the room, the phone rings or pulls in/out of the driveway, the touch screens power back on. I'll be able to apply this to at least 3 of my touch screens around the house. The one in our great room I'll leave on all the time.

I also received some battery powered water leak alarms that I'll be placing around the house mainly because of the theater.

I'm putting one by the water heater, one by the well blader and one in the bathroom above the theater. I'll eventually add auto shutoff's too, but I just wanted something I could pop in there without a plumber involved. Just a bit more peace of mind.
post #2580 of 3008
Mario,
How much space do you have behind that for the 703? I have some good ideas to create a trap the provides good results and if you want to share Height, Width, and Depth dimensions I can tell you what I am thinking.

I used a similar space to do an Ethan Winer design bass trap that works quite well that doubles as the back of my equipment rack.
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