The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 91

I did go with the Zero International Bottoms from Soundproofing Company. My concrete floor did rise up a bit near the end of the swing of the door. So you may break out your level and verify that you don't have the same problem.

My door makes a little contact with the carpet at the end of the swing, but nothing to worry about.

You also have the variance if you door/hinges aren't perfectly level that it could swing towards the ground or the ceiling.

Lot's of moving parts, but in the end it worked out for me.

That's great to hear. Glad I could provide some assistance.

The Fantech turns on when the air or heat is on. My thermostat had an option to turn on FAN when Heat is on that I enabled. There's also a Vari-Speed dial to manually adjust the speed of the Fantech and then a relay that goes to the HVAC control panel. I have the Fan Speed set to HIGH all the time.

It's really awesome how fast I can get the room warmed up.

The rear dead vent that routes the air to the adjoining rec room is the only return. I used some acoustically transparent 6" vents from Soundproofing Company for all the runs in/out of the theater vents to reduce sound travel. My pics back in this thread may prove helpful. I believe that is the model I used. I'd have to look back in the thread though to be absolutely sure...been awhile.

There are 2 6" supplies into the theater. They are on the opposite side of the room as the return. So you get really good air movement and the air has to move past the projector which probably helps move the heat from that more efficiently.
There are no fans in the supplies. We did completely enclose the supplies though for soundproofing. That was actually quite a big project. Double layers of 5/8" plywood, green glue, IB-3 clips, etc. were all used to suspend them from the ceiling.

The theater is right next to the furnace room so the supplies are really close...but the sound proofing worked out great with everything we did.
You can't even hear the Dead Vent return fan unless you put your ear up to the vent.

Cool Moggie. I wasn't aware of this option during my build. I usually just inhale deeply before opening the door to relieve the room pressure.

You're very welcome. Let me know if you need any other information.

I upgraded to the Denon AVR-4520CI back in January, but never got around to posting pictures I took of it compared to my Onkyo 3008.

I really wanted to take advantage of the Denon's 11.2 capabilities.

The Denon is a bit shallower in depth. The sound is different to me than the Onkyo. It's almost a bit crisper or sharper. Not necessarily better or worse, but just sounds different.

I also wanted the ability to save the Audyssey settings to my local hard drive; however, it took about 12 tries before I finally got one that saved properly. I recently updated the firmware so maybe that will improve the reliability. The Onkyo seemed to have more options for listening modes too.

I'm still debating whether to keep the Onkyo 3008 and use it for the Rec Room area (I've got the Onkyo 609 for that space right now). I like the idea of keeping it around in case I ever need to send the Denon in for a repair, I'll have a backup ready to go.

Here are the pics.














Edited by mcascio - 3/15/13 at 7:43am

I've been anxious to do another Audyssey calibration by bringing the 4520 into the theater near the patch panel. This will eliminate the long cable run for the Audyssey mic that I use to do the calibrations.

Some posts I read say the extra long mic run may make a small difference.

I haven't had time to watch too many movies in there since getting the Denon.

I'd entertain some offers via PM...but I'll probably end up keeping it. Although the Onkyo 3008 is not in use at the moment so if I sell it, now's a good time.

My upstairs great room has an older flagship Yamaha RX-V1 if anyone is interested.

I'd like to move the Onkyo 3008 into my REC ROOM TV seating area, then move my Onkyo 609 from the rec room upstairs to the great room to replace my Yamaha RX-V1.

So I'd prefer to sell my Yamaha RX-V1.

Thanks. I didn't see that post!

Hi Gomdaf,

Thanks for the compliments and congrats on the completion of your theater.

I'm really enjoying the Panasonic AE-8000U. I find that it's bright enough. Although, as I've always said, you'll never know the difference unless you have another projector to compare it too. In my case, I had the AE-4000U which I thought was fine too. This one definitely brightens up the room much more. There have been some scenes where the screen goes all white and it's almost blinding.

My projector sits even with the top of the screen. In 4x3 mode, I have my LENS CONTROL set to a V-Position and H-Position of 0. Assuming my projector was above the screen, I can still lower the image even further. In 2.35 scope movies, my vertical position is set to -29. So I still have more room to shift it down if it was above the screen.

3D could be a little brighter, but the only reason I say that, is because I can compare it to the 2D image which is obviously always going to be brighter than the 3D image. So in a perfect world, they would be equal in brightness.

Because of the fan noise though, I opt to run the Panny in eco mode all the time. I could gain even more brightness by taking it out of ECO mode.

Hey Joe.

I'm always honored to be the first post by new AVSers. I really appreciate it. Send me a PM when your thread begins so I can follow along.

My sump alarm has gone off twice in the past few weeks. The float didn't seem to be obstructed and I didn't see anything floating in the sump so it leads me to believe my main sump may be failing. If I pushed the vertical float down and then back up again it fired just fine.
I've had this Little Giant for about 3 years now. Fortunately I'm still under warranty. Little Giant is sending out replacement parts to see if that resolves the problem the failing switch. We've had a lot of rain lately and my sump has been running quite a bit so it's been getting worked out for sure.

With the warmer weather and a need to have a better backup plan in place...I finally routed the backup sump drain underground and away from the house. Thanks to forum members for giving me ideas on how the parts to do this.

Yup. I'm with ya. It usually takes 3 - 4 hours after heavy rain before the sump starts running frequently. My sump pretty much runs daily through-out the year unless we really hit a dry spell.

I tested my backup sump and it's working so I still have a backup in place.

I probably should have checked to see how long shipping of the replacement part is going to take from Little Giant. I'm tempted to buy another sump pump to have on hand, but the warranty starts the day you buy it. Ideally you have two main sumps the same so you have just swap them easily without having to adjust pipe depth and recut anything. It looks like the one I have though is already discontinued.

Yeah - I guess it's better to dig this ditch than dig out the theater though.

I'm getting a little splashing as the water comes out of the 1.5" into the 5" right angle. I have the 1.5" centered to the 5" but I'm wondering if I move the 5" so the water is gushing right into the angle part it will prevent the splashing. Looks like I'm going to have to undig the pipe again so I can slide it a little.

Interesting. Did you get it setup yet?

Did you have to put the ground in?

The only downside I see is actually testing the sump to make sure it's working. It doesn't appear you can do a test trigger...or can you?