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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 93

post #2761 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericestes33 View Post

Hey Mario. I have studied your theater now for a couple months and absolutely love it. I plan on using a lot of design methods from you but have one question. How did you calculate the radius of all the platforms/stairs/cabinetry that is in your room. Once again, I think your design is genius and couldn't have gotten better results!

Thanks ericestes33 for making your first post on the AVS in this thread and the compliments. I'm glad you could find some useful information.

I calculate the curve based upon the curve of my berkline seats. It's not a true circle, I made mine more of an oval.

Initially, I brought I used the PDF image that Berkline provided and brought it into my 3D software. Then made an oval that closely matched the back curvature of the seats.

Once I had that finalized, I then took measurements from the 3D plan along a straight line measure out to the curve.

Hope that helps.
post #2762 of 3008
Awesome. Thanks!!!
post #2763 of 3008
Thread Starter 
We finally got around to developing a driver for the Panasonic AE8000U.

I plan to create a macro to completely power down the entire basement / theater after entertaining. So that includes all receivers, amps, projector, Russound, black lights, step lights, Movie Poster tv, ice maker, any ceiling lights on in the basement etc.

One thing I noticed is that the AE8000U doesn't seem to send back information to us when you power it on/off with the remote or issue input and picture mode changes. Has anyone else noticed this?
post #2764 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

We finally got around to developing a driver for the Panasonic AE8000U.

I plan to create a macro to completely power down the entire basement / theater after entertaining. So that includes all receivers, amps, projector, Russound, black lights, step lights, Movie Poster tv, ice maker, any ceiling lights on in the basement etc.

One thing I noticed is that the AE8000U doesn't seem to send back information to us when you power it on/off with the remote or issue input and picture mode changes. Has anyone else noticed this?

maybe i missing something in the settings but how to get get around the fact when you go to turn off the projector it wants to confirm with selecting "ok" to shut it down?
post #2765 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

maybe i missing something in the settings but how to get get around the fact when you go to turn off the projector it wants to confirm with selecting "ok" to shut it down?

Usually discrete IP or rs232 commands for power do not require confirmation.
post #2766 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

maybe i missing something in the settings but how to get get around the fact when you go to turn off the projector it wants to confirm with selecting "ok" to shut it down?

One of the nice things about sending a Power Off command through the serial port using our software is that it doesn't have that confirmation option. It just powers it down. I could certainly issue a status request after issuing any commands through our software, but if someone uses a remote at all, then it can get out of sync. Unless I'm missing something. Usually these devices are intelligent enough to send information when things happen internally.
post #2767 of 3008
Well-placed discrete on and off codes will generally allow you to solve this issue through programming, but I would be interested to know if the projector responds to a status state request when the projector is in standby (or "off") mode. Typically, the device will respond to a status state request via serial, even when it's not fully on, therefore you can easily insert a status request line of code and challenge the response with an IF / THEN / ELSE statement in the coding. Otherwise you are left with voltage and / or signal sensing devices that can provide the necessary feedback outside of the projector, which is certainly not optimal for a number of reasons.
post #2768 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

We finally got around to developing a driver for the Panasonic AE8000U.

I plan to create a macro to completely power down the entire basement / theater after entertaining. So that includes all receivers, amps, projector, Russound, black lights, step lights, Movie Poster tv, ice maker, any ceiling lights on in the basement etc.

Awesome, glad to see this, Mario, as this matches my goal (one button power up or down of the theater). I now have the projector, Lutron (all lighting, starfield, etc), Dune, and HDMI matrix working, but I still haven't been able to get my Onkyo network driver to work -- have you noticed any problems with your setup? I'm running a TX-NR3008, which I think is fairly similar to yours...

Bryan
post #2769 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Well-placed discrete on and off codes will generally allow you to solve this issue through programming, but I would be interested to know if the projector responds to a status state request when the projector is in standby (or "off") mode. Typically, the device will respond to a status state request via serial, even when it's not fully on, therefore you can easily insert a status request line of code and challenge the response with an IF / THEN / ELSE statement in the coding. Otherwise you are left with voltage and / or signal sensing devices that can provide the necessary feedback outside of the projector, which is certainly not optimal for a number of reasons.

I just tested it and the projector does respond to status request while in Standby mode.

You actually gave me an idea though...I can actually setup the software to issue a status request to the projector every time I see the IR power command for the projector from within the theater. That should ensure that I always know the true status of the projector whether someone is controlling it from Cinemar or from a hand held IR remote.
post #2770 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Awesome, glad to see this, Mario, as this matches my goal (one button power up or down of the theater). I now have the projector, Lutron (all lighting, starfield, etc), Dune, and HDMI matrix working, but I still haven't been able to get my Onkyo network driver to work -- have you noticed any problems with your setup? I'm running a TX-NR3008, which I think is fairly similar to yours...

Bryan

Hi Bryan,

Good to hear.

I'm actually using the Denon now for a receiver. My 3008 is actually still sitting in the rack unplugged. I may just sell it and use the funds to upgrade something in the theater. smile.gif

Do you have a thread started in the Cinemar forum that I can refer to about your issue?

Make sure you prevent the Onkyo from going into network standby. That shuts down the network port and any communication. Also I think I had better results with the Onkyo when I let it pick a dynamic IP address and then reserved that address in my router.
post #2771 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

You actually gave me an idea though...I can actually setup the software to issue a status request to the projector every time I see the IR power command for the projector from within the theater. That should ensure that I always know the true status of the projector whether someone is controlling it from Cinemar or from a hand held IR remote.

The IR power command for the projector as issued through the control system? Or from any IR source, including the original remote?
Edited by TMcG - 7/30/13 at 5:17pm
post #2772 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post


Make sure you prevent the Onkyo from going into network standby. That shuts down the network port and any communication. Also I think I had better results with the Onkyo when I let it pick a dynamic IP address and then reserved that address in my router.

Good, thanks for the tips. Let me try these and if still stuck, I'll start a thread on your support forum...
post #2773 of 3008
incredible HT. the colors, the equipment. Everything!.

What ever happened to the cinema bar table from the original drawing? im sure somewhere in this thread you mentioned why it was omitted.
post #2774 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

The IR power command for the projector as issued through the control system? Or from any IR source, including the original remote?

The commands coming from the Cinemar control system are sent over serial to the projector.

I've setup my system so that every time someone in the room issues an IR POWER command from the remote control (harmony), which is the same as the original Panasonic remote, it will issue a status request to the Panasonic Projector over serial from our system and update the variables so everything stays in sync. I can do the same for source input and Picture mode so the onscreen feedback is always accurate whether it's controlled from a touch screen or an IR remote. Our system allows you to capture any IR code and when we see it, we can send a command to do just about anything.

Although, I'm actually thinking of taking it one step further. I may just listen to a generic IR command in the theater, and then just trigger a macro in MLServer to turn everything on/off over serial and IP and completely bypass IR for power only.

Harmony is sometimes tricky to program though when you are not actually turning devices on and off through them.

Another goal is to allow my wife to turn everything on in the theater from any room in the house, pick a movie, and the kids can just walk into the theater and everything is ready to go without us even need to be in the room. Yes - we're extremely lazy. smile.gif

So I want to prevent the projector from staying on and know it's status at all times from our control system.
post #2775 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Good, thanks for the tips. Let me try these and if still stuck, I'll start a thread on your support forum...

Sounds good. Keep me posted.
post #2776 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by linkseo View Post

incredible HT. the colors, the equipment. Everything!.

What ever happened to the cinema bar table from the original drawing? im sure somewhere in this thread you mentioned why it was omitted.

Thanks linkseo.

I opted not do go with the back bar in the theater. I thought it would close up the room as you walked in too much and make it a bit tight to walk around.

We've had one movie night where we just brought in a bar height table and some stools and that actually worked out pretty good. And the rest of the over-flow trickled into the bar just outside that seats nine. I've set it up so the same movie can be seen in the bar that is in the theater (or any display in the house for that matter).
post #2777 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Things actually ended up working out really well after testing things out.

Through the Harmony software, I disabled the Power command for the projector completely. And I now have our software listening for a generic IR code that powers everything on in the theater including the projector, russound zone, step lights, black lights, black light to 50%, Dune player, etc. Another generic ir code I listen for then sends a power off to all the equipment and shuts down all the room lighting. And because our software is doing all the turning on / off of the projector, it always knows the power status.

The reason I had to do this is because if someone turns on the theater from say upstairs via the Cinemar user interface and then walks down in to the theater and wants to switch to the harmony remote and selects Watch Movie...the projector doesn't have a discrete power on/off ir code, so the Harmony remote would essentially issue a power command and you end up with the onscreen prompt from the projector asking to power it off. So this won't happen now.

Now everything in the theater can be powered off from anywhere. My wife was pretty excited about this. My daughter has play dates, so she can cue up a movie from upstairs and send the kids down to the theater to watch a movie without ever going down there.
post #2778 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Now everything in the theater can be powered off from anywhere. My wife was pretty excited about this. My daughter has play dates, so she can cue up a movie from upstairs and send the kids down to the theater to watch a movie without ever going down there.

Nice! It's great to be able to go to bed and know that everything is off for the night...
post #2779 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

So I've got a working virtual movie poster now that dynamically updates.

Here's how it works, once you select the movie from MainLobby for the dedicated movie player for the theater, the movie poster is instantly displayed on the Virtual Movie Poster LED.

The Start and End Time's are automatically calculated.

I also display the rating, year, aspect ratio and run time.

There's still a lot more I'd like to do but due to time constraints it'll have to wait. I'd like to add some light sheens to the movie poster soon though to help draw the eye to the screen. It would also be really easy to scroll the synopsis along the bottom. It definitely deserves some movement to take advantage of the technology.

IMG_1262_small.jpg

Here's another look at it since the photo doesn't quite do it justice.
virtual_movie_poster_1.00.jpg

WOW this is really cool, where can we get this software?
Edited by marlon1925 - 8/5/13 at 8:18pm
post #2780 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by marlon1925 View Post

WOW this is really cool, where can we get this software?

Mario's company, Cinemar Solutions. Awesome software for HT automation as well as just about anything else you can think of to automate in your home... biggrin.gif
post #2781 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Mario's company, Cinemar Solutions. Awesome software for HT automation as well as just about anything else you can think of to automate in your home... biggrin.gif


i see, i thought he's using mediaportal smile.gif
post #2782 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Huge difference. In fact I had installed the more substantial seals first (the ones with the neoprene) and the sound suppression was very good. When I added the 119W (the "V"-shaped brass piece) it was even better.

Like I said above, when I got everything installed for the first time and cranked up the theater, I was really surprised with how quiet it was outside the room - even with just a standard pre-hung solid door. I had considered buying one of those specialized multi-layer 300 pound soundproof doors so loaded with Green Glue, pixie dust and unicorn blood that even the world's most sensitive measurement equipment couldn't tell if I was in the theater watching a Michael Bay explosion film at reference level or lying dead with the system off....but the cost was too prohibitive. I just spent my money making the tightest soundproofing I could with a standard solid door and was extremely happy with the result. You really had to stop and listen with your ear toward the door to really hear any of the low-end rumble which was pretty amazing.

Mario - I didn't get the additional pictures I was looking for last night. Hopefully I will get them in the next day or two and I will post above with my other pictures.

I have a door already in place. Can I add the 119W to the top and sides? Then also put a 367 on the bottom of the door, but if the door is over carpet when sealed, but opening out of the theater and over tile set lower than the carpet slightly, would that work, or would it want to hold too tight tothe carpet when I try to open it?
post #2783 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Our system allows you to capture any IR code and when we see it, we can send a command to do just about anything.

Mario, sorry if this is already stated somewhere, but I've just spent a while searching and can't seem to find an answer, so I figured I'd just ask...

What setup do you have to capture an IR signal / command and feed it into MLS? I'm assuming it's an IR receiver connected to the main server's I/O, and then a driver to create an event when it sees an IR signal... er sumpthin'...

Thanks,
Bryan
post #2784 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Mario, sorry if this is already stated somewhere, but I've just spent a while searching and can't seem to find an answer, so I figured I'd just ask...

What setup do you have to capture an IR signal / command and feed it into MLS? I'm assuming it's an IR receiver connected to the main server's I/O, and then a driver to create an event when it sees an IR signal... er sumpthin'...

Thanks,
Bryan

Hi Bryan,

Not sure I ever specifically mentioned the hardware in my posts here.

But I personally use the USBUIRT hardware to capture IR signals and convert them to MLServeCmd's. (Connects via USB and then uses our MLUSBUIRT plugin)

You can also use our Global Cache GC-IRE. (Connects Via Serial and then uses our MLGCIRE plugin)
post #2785 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Hi Bryan,

Not sure I ever specifically mentioned the hardware in my posts here.

But I personally use the USBUIRT hardware to capture IR signals and convert them to MLServeCmd's. (Connects via USB and then uses our MLUSBUIRT plugin)

You can also use our Global Cache GC-IRE. (Connects Via Serial and then uses our MLGCIRE plugin)

Awesome, thanks Mario! I'll get that USBUIRT hardware ordered today... smile.gif
post #2786 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I get quite a few PM's through the forum. So I thought I'd start posting some here since if one person has a question, there's probably 20 more with the same question.

What did you use for the accent lighting on your steps? What about your soffit lighting?
I used color changing LED 5050 lighting strips from HitLights for both - bought on Amazon. The steps I cut to length.
They had 300 LED's per 16.4 ft.

Soffit Lighting Discussion starts here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1208912/the-cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread/2160#post_22275015

Step Light Discussion starts here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1208912/the-cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread/2310#post_22336847

I see all of the panels on the screen wall are hinged. Why did you hinge all of them? What are the frames of these little doors constructed with?
I tossed around a variety of ideas including velcro, etc. But in the end, adding the hinges not only gave me the look of a cabinet that I wanted but also allows me to gain access to behind the screen easier and have the option to place smaller subs in the front wall cabinets.

I ended up using Maple wood.

What were your methods in painting all of the wood black?

My Father In Law did most of the work on the painting side, but I helped out in some areas.

1) Lightly Sand
2) Puddy
3) Apply Bin Primer
4) Sand with 220 sponge, fine steel wool for moulding
5) 1st coate of Paint with Purdy XL Glide brush
6) Lightly Sand if using Latex Paint
7) 2nd coat of Paint

Painting Tips post:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1208912/the-cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread/1890#post_22114919

Do you have a website where all of your construction pictures are gathered? It takes so long to get through the threads in this forum!
Sorry. Nothing like that exists at the moment.

I'm still wanting to put together a photo book for when visitors stop by that they can see everything that went into the space, but haven't gotten around to it.
post #2787 of 3008
I love this thread... I look at it often and plan to use it as reference when I start the construction of my new home...

That being said... I was afraid that it may someday come down, get corrupted, or the many photo links would stop working... So I found a great little application called HTTrack Website Copier. It will copy every post on every page, including all photos and hyperlinks to your hard drive for offline use... The best thing is.. you can look at all the photos without having to scour the 90+ pages of posts... As of right now... there are more than 215MBs of data...

Thanks again Mario for this awesome resource.... Don't suppose you have any video walk arounds of you theater?

Hope this helps someone.
post #2788 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Litlgi74 View Post

I love this thread... I look at it often and plan to use it as reference when I start the construction of my new home...

That being said... I was afraid that it may someday come down, get corrupted, or the many photo links would stop working... So I found a great little application called HTTrack Website Copier. It will copy every post on every page, including all photos and hyperlinks to your hard drive for offline use... The best thing is.. you can look at all the photos without having to scour the 90+ pages of posts... As of right now... there are more than 215MBs of data...

Thanks again Mario for this awesome resource.... Don't suppose you have any video walk arounds of you theater?

Hope this helps someone.

Hi Litlgi74,

Thanks for the information and positive comments. I'm sure others will benefit from it.

I haven't shot any video since the DBox clip I shot that's on my YouTube channel if you search for CinemarInc.

I may have to put something together and break out my 10 ft. video crane that I haven't used in ages. I may check with my brother-in-law who has a drone with an HD video cam on it. I think it may be able to produce some pretty neat footage.
post #2789 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by marlon1925 View Post

WOW this is really cool, where can we get this software?

I don't mean to threadjack, but if you are interested, see my signature for links to MoviePoster software, it does very much the same thing and integrates with XBMC. Mario's project was actually my inspiration for creating it.
post #2790 of 3008
Mario, I am looking to do my theater very similar to yours. My ceiling is lower than yours and will not be anywhere as nice......no DBox either.

I am interested in your opinion on the drywall. I plan on going OSB for the first layer as you did and then drywall. Going with wainscotting and fabric, is it worth the effort to tape, mud and sand the drywall? I was considering just filling with acoustical caulk since it will never be seen.

Is there something gained by finishing it?
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