The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 11

Thanks. Yup. It's a new generation free floating pool table without any pockets.

There's several items that go into creating what you see.
* Modeling
* Texturing & Surface
* Layout
* Lighting

Rendering time depends on what settings are turned on and your processing power. My quad-core takes about 3 minutes a frame without reflections turned on.

Like everything else, you get what you put into it. The pool table that you see in my rendering is just a rectangle that took seconds to make. However, if you wanted to model one that looks realistic it would take many hours. You can purchase 3D models, but they can be expensive.

As I've mentioned before, the software I use is typically used for TV/Commercial industry. I've seen many also use it for architectural renderings which is pretty much how I'm using it.

If I didn't have the software and 15 years experience with it, I'd probably opt for something like Google Sketchup...although I don't have any experience with it. I can imagine the end results is a plan to build the room from.

Yeah. It's a pretty fun game. They've become quite popular in our area.

My friends came in on Saturday and knocked out a few walls. They are working their way around the basement. So not much was done concerning the theater wall itself.















My friend referred me to someone who could replace my R19 insulation with a Spray Foam closed cell (Soy Bean) product that would increase the RValue to R21 and prevent any air leakage in the walls and between the basement box sills. They said it would also improve sound leakage.

They would then remove the wall insulation and put it into the ceiling or where ever else I would like it.

I'm curious if anyone else has expereience with this. It would seem like if it helps with sound proofing it may be a good product for above the theater and the theater walls as well. Thoughts?

EDIT: Also, my future office will most likely share a cold air return with the Master Suite from the floor above. I'm concerned the sound will flow pretty freely through the walls and to the upstairs cold air return. Are there some good ways to combat this?

I thought this composite image was kind of neat merging the 3D world with the actual photo.

hanesian,

Thanks. There are some tags written to the photo when I take it that gives me the information I need to match it in Lightwave 3D. I then put the photo in the background and try to match the same position in the 3D layout. Then I rendered a wireframe and realistic version separately. Then using Photoshop just layered the images with the real photo with some massaging.

Perfect. Just the info I was looking for. Sounds like the spray foam is better used outside the theater on exterior walls.

Thanks as usual for chiming in.

Yeah - I'm getting a revised quote without doing the theater walls and just the exterior walkout walls and sills between the floors. The sills in the theater are above ceiling and will be decoupled with clips and channels so I should be fine.

If I went with Great Stuff, would I remove all the insulation in the sills and fill it up? That stuff makes me a little nervous...and what a mess.

Not too much progress on the theater since the weekend. Although I did get one crack in the foundation wall repaired in another area of the basement. Only 2 more to go. The spray injection form seemed to work pretty well. I filled a few cracks in the cement floor with some concrete crack filler as well.

Also, wired another remote thermal sensor for the upstairs and wiring in another motion sensor for our master suite so I can prevent lights from being left on.

The spray foam guy came back today to requote just the exterior walls and sills. I'm hoping it will be more in my price range.

I'm still playing around with some designs for my screen wall. I wish I had more length in the room so I could just do the screen sitting on a false wall. But because I need to allow room for my big sub I'm finding I have to build around it somehow and can't afford to place the screen in front of the sub.

Here's one look that I'm gravitating towards.

Right now I have an M&K MX-350 THX sub that is going to go in there. I'll have to add more down the road when budget permits and depending upon how it sounds with just the one sub. I'm up in the air about the other subs I may add though.

I have about 14" to work with behind the screen wall. So I'm guessing I'd just put and inwall / infloor sub there then and just keep it on the front wall.

What's the general rule on mixing and matching subwoofers?

DavidK442,
Thanks for the compliments. I like your idea of straightening it out. I'll give it a whirl and see if I like the results.

tbraden32,
I'll have to look around at subs. I guess the next question is what would be a good comparable sub to my M&K 350 but on a much tighter budget. I probably won't tackle a DIY sub just because I can build things in a computer, but not in the real world.

Another portion of the theater wall went up today and a few other walls. I was planning on using Silenseal along the baseplates of the interior/first wall of the theater...but in the case of the double wall...do I need to do the second wall or just the wall within the theater facing into the theater?

Ideally I could stay under a $1000 when the time comes.

I'm wondering if it would be better for me to add a sub like the M&K V-1250, although not as powerful as my existng M&K MX-350 to keep the woofers in the same brand. Or how about the Martin Logan Dynamo 1000?

Got another crack repaired in the foundation. Just one more to go that's actually in the theater.

Had a small scare, after hearing the news about Berkline liquidating their business, I thought it might be a good idea to open all my berkline boxes that have been stored and make sure I have the correct chairs and colors per my original order back in 2008. For about a half hour, I thouught I had one wrong chair which would have really thrown a wrench in things especially if I couldn't get a replacement. Fortunately, after inspection, it looks like I have all the right chairs...now I just hope the motorized reclining features all work.

Regarding sound proofing, what's the golden rule as far as fluffy insulation goes in the case where I have a soffit cavity?

I have 12" joists plus a 14" soffit below the joists around the room.

I assume I would insulate in the floor joists and then more insulation in the soffit just below the joists. Is the goal to have the insulation touching or leave air gaps in between the two?

Larry,

That begs the question then, better to have it in the joists or closer to the theater room ceiling drywall?

My friends were able to get some more done yesterday on the rigid wall leading into the theater. The foyer walls for the theater still needs to go up. Were building the outer shell of the theater first, then the rigid soffit, then the inside walls will connect to the soffit with DC-04 clips.

I also finished the last foundation injection crack repair. This one was actually in the theater. Now I'll be able to sleep at night after the drywall goes up.




I have to have the plumber come in an relocate this bar sink drain out of the theater and into that rigid wall.