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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 15

post #421 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

How much did the spray foam run ya?

Hey LarryM,

It was just over a couple thousand. But should be slightly under with the tax credit. I was able to reuse some of the R19 insulation for sound proofing other areas of the ceiling. So a little bonus. I did discover mold behind the walls...so I'm extremely glad I decided to go with the spray foam. I took all the insulation out a few days before the sprayed and killed off all the mold I could find. We have pretty high winds out here and that cold air mixing with the warm walls must have been a mold breeding ground. The spray foam should solve that issue.
post #422 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post
Ted,

Do coffered ceilings add any acoustical advantages?

You would do better asking Dennis. I'm not an in-room acoustical guy
post #423 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Nothing to report construction-wise today on the theater; however, I did get some FR701 Fabric Samples ordered today. Still leaning towards the colors used in the rendering but may do some test renders with the FR701 Claret Accent color which is a dark red.

The Dbox platform came in today. Looks pretty slick. Just hope all the pieces are there for assembly. The platform will provide motion to the first row three seats.





The remaining 500 feet of 12/4 speaker cable arrived today as well.

The HVAC guy connected the Arzel air tubes to the Theater zones yesterday so they can route it through the vent muffler.
post #424 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

You would do better asking Dennis. I'm not an in-room acoustical guy

Cool, thanks Ted

I guess the added mass may help a tad with soundproofing though correct
post #425 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Nothing to report construction-wise today on the theater; however, I did get some FR701 Fabric Samples ordered today. Still leaning towards the colors used in the rendering but may do some test renders with the FR701 Claret Accent color which is a dark red.

The Dbox platform came in today. Looks pretty slick. Just hope all the pieces are there for assembly. The platform will provide motion to the first row three seats.

The remaining 500 feet of 12/4 speaker cable arrived today as well.

The HVAC guy connected the Arzel air tubes to the Theater zones yesterday so they can route it through the vent muffler.

What does th DBox do?

Nevermind, I googled
http://www.d-box.com/en/home-theatre/

Sounds like a lot of fun
post #426 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

The Dbox platform came in today. Looks pretty slick. Just hope all the pieces are there for assembly. The platform will provide motion to the first row three seats.


Those look like 80/20 T-slot bars, cool! Could you take some pictures when you assemble the platform and post them up? Pretty please?
post #427 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

Those look like 80/20 T-slot bars, cool! Could you take some pictures when you assemble the platform and post them up? Pretty please?

Yes - they are the 45x45 mm and 45x90mm T-Slots.
I found a local company to predrill and cut them to specs.

I will definitely post some pictures after assembly.
post #428 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I want to make sure I'm future proofed for multiple subs down the road. I'm running everything from my rack into the theater patch panel within the theater. As far as floor subs go, I think I just need to run two RG6 into the patch panel from the rack. I know I could then split them up to say 4 subs there using a splitter. Do more advanced systems require dedicated Rg6 to each sub for room EQ? Just wondering if I need to run four RG6 instead.

Is it also safe to assume that I only need one RG6 behind my false wall to support two subs up front?
post #429 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I want to make sure I'm future proofed for multiple subs down the road. I'm running everything from my rack into the theater patch panel within the theater. As far as floor subs go, I think I just need to run two RG6 into the patch panel from the rack. I know I could then split them up to say 4 subs there using a splitter. Do more advanced systems require dedicated Rg6 to each sub for room EQ? Just wondering if I need to run four RG6 instead.

Is it also safe to assume that I only need one RG6 behind my false wall to support two subs up front?

Mario,

While you still can, I'd run individual RG6 feeds to wherever you might install a sub. Putting a Y splitter induces a loss and the more you split, the more loss you get. I have only one sub-out on my receiver (for now), but I'm going to be feeding two subs and two butt kickers, so I'm going to be installing a little amplifier to minimize loss. It's not absolutely necessary, but while you've got everything open, it's not 50-feet of RG6 that'll break the bank.
post #430 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks Rob. I'm gonna run 4 RG6 feeds from my equip rack to the patch panel in the theater. Then I'll make about 7 runs from the patch panel to possible sub locations in the theater.
post #431 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Today I was able to get most of my speaker cable, bass shaker, RG6 and two cat5 runs into the theaters patch panel area. Still need to come up with some clean way to hide all of this in a wall or enclosure but have some ideas in my head.

It should be pretty easy now for me to just make the final runs from the patch panel to the appropriate locations in the theater. I'll still have a few home runs from the projector as well.

I pretty much filled up my I-Beam with cable for the rest of the house...so I made a different path into the theater that was a little more direct within a soffit.




Here's where the patch panel will be terminated within the theater itself. Another set of cables will go up the right side and within the theater.



I put some puddy pads on some outlets that I know won't get moved that are on the other side of the double wall in the bar.
post #432 of 3008
Mario, in your picture of all the cable, I see thick orange double-conductor cable. Is that high-voltage? I'm asking cuz I see some Monoprice speaker cable running parallel to it. I just don't recognize the cable, that's why I'm asking -- the whole high-voltage and low-voltage running parallel thing...
post #433 of 3008
Thread Starter 
The orange cable is rg6 and cat5 combined. There is some electric cable above about 4 to 6 inches that has been there for years that hasn't caused any issues. Im running the theater cable down a different run which is a little more critical to me and made sure there were no parralel runs with electric.. I haven't noticed any hummimg in any of the 12 russound zones yet since that electric was put there. Perhaps the ibeam in between helps too.
post #434 of 3008
How much did the DBox cost you?
post #435 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

How much did the DBox cost you?

Let's just say it wasn't cheap.

I was able to get a DEMO model at a great price though about 5 or 6 years ago when the economy was thriving.

I initially took the feet off one of my wife's chairs and connected the acuators to it. It was a pretty wild ride. Fortunately I was able to get her chair back to it's original condition.

The D-Box has been sitting in storage for years. So I'm anxious to revive it soon.
post #436 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I have roughly 4' section of a cold air return in the joists that will be right above the clips/channel and DD/GG. No insulation will be above the ceiling at this point. Do I need to worry about this area and treat it with something?
post #437 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Ted,

Do you have any data/knowledge on the 1/2" ultra light drywall? I was getting quotes on drywall for the basement and one of the guys mentioned that he thought while the 1/2" ultra light drywall is 30% lighter, it still may have comparable STC values to 5/8" drywall.
post #438 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

The D-Box has been sitting in storage for years. So I'm anxious to revive it soon.

I'd say! I've never tried out the D-box. I love the buttkickers I have in my seats but tend to turn the gain down and programmed my x-over so they only start to fire below 35hz. I know that d-box is a big step up from the buttkickers but I wonder how distracting people find them? Also, do they act as a LF tactile effect for music or soundtracks without a d-box download?
post #439 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Moggie,

I can't say that I've watched a full movie with the D-Box yet, but I did watch sections from a variety of movies. I'm thinking it will make we want to rewatch a lot of movies once the theater is done.

It's pretty impressive in some movies, it even seems like the vibrations it makes creates a sound or tone that matches that of the movie track down to the perfect pitch.

Everyone I demoed it too seemed to just say WOW. I guess for romantic comedies it may not be that attractive though.

It does have a music mode that will make it act like a butt kicker.

I'll also have butt kickers in both rows for movies that aren't D-Box compatible. Through the touch screen I should be able to turn on/off either row or the D-Box.
post #440 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'll also have butt kickers in both rows for movies that aren't D-Box compatible. Through the touch screen I should be able to turn on/off either row or the D-Box.

We are an obsessive bunch of fanatics, aren't we? How are you planning to switch b-kickers on/off?

Cheers!
post #441 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

We are an obsessive bunch of fanatics, aren't we? How are you planning to switch b-kickers on/off?

Cheers!

Yeah. We are a special breed.

I was just planning on using an older receiver with an a/b speaker option. Or I could just use an insteon applianceLinc to completely turn on or off the receiver.worst case I know there are speaker switchers with rs232 control. Lots of ways to skin that cat.
post #442 of 3008
Thread Starter 
The construction crew had some other projects this week so I'm on the back burner.

The new baby is due in about 6 1/2 weeks so I thought I'd try to push the project along by trying to make some can light backer boxes tonight. I ended up using 3/4" wood with 1/4" cement board. I have two of them cut to size and will get all the pieces together before I acoustic caulk and green glue them permanently. These things feel pretty heavy to be floating right on the drywall. I may attach them with IB3's to help reduce the weight unless others have had that some feeling.



This is about the extent of my wood working skills.

I also put up some R13 on one of the theater walls. The electrical and low voltage haven't been pulled into the room yet, but given the limited locations it shouldn't be a problem to work around later. I'll be putting two sconces on the back wall. This should help in cases where I need to light up more of the center of the room.



I think I've also figured out my lighting plan for the room. The lights are shown in pink. The inside perimiter will be 3" cans. All the rest will be 4" cans including the three pointing at the screen. 16 3" cans around the inside perimeter may be a bit much but I still may tweak that number down to maybe 3 on each side instead of 4.



Sample Rendering with Sconces:
post #443 of 3008
Hi Mario - looks like things are really coming along well!

Regarding your backer boxes, I think you'll be fine with them directly against the back of the drywall without IB3's. I used 7/16" OSB and 1/4" backer board for mine (maybe slightly lighter than your final weight will be) and they appear to be fine against the back of the drywall. If you do decide to use the IB3's, you'll need to be sure that the flange of the backer box is lined up exactly with the face of the channel so you can get a good seal with the drywall. Given my (very) limited construction ability and the fact that Ted White told me the boxes were ok directly against the drywall, I didn't want to chance having a compromised seal and so decided not to use the IB3's.

Anyway, just food for thought...keep up the good work!


Here's a pic of how mine look up in the ceiling...

post #444 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks AirBenji.

Slowly but surely.

Thanks for the info on your backer boxes and the photo. I'll go ahead and add them without the IB3's given your reassurance.
post #445 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I have a water pipe for my well in the back of the theater that runs through the studs they've notched. How do I go about insulating? I imagine the pipe may sweat a little so should I just leave a gap of insulation around the water pipe?

The first 11' vent muffler was connected today with IB3 clips. Pictures to follow after the break.
post #446 of 3008
I would install a 1/2" thick armaflex insulation around the water pipe, sealing all seams with adhesive.

Home Depot actually carries both (around here, anyway).
post #447 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I would install a 1/2" thick armaflex insulation around the water pipe, sealing all seams with adhesive.

Home Depot actually carries both (around here, anyway).

Thanks.

So insulate the water pipe...then just put the regular insulation around it?
post #448 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Here are some pics from todays activitives. Both Vent mufflers have been built. We used 3/4" OSB and then 1/2" OSB and Green Glue in the middle. Acoustic sealant was used at the joints. ONe of the Vent Mufflers was mounted using the IB3 clips. I also Green Glued and screwed four backer boxes.




The smaller hole is for the Arzel air tubes to control the zone dampers in the theater.









Some 2x4's were mounted underneath the soffit to hold the wait while the screwed the IB3's to the Joists above. The entire muffler will be 5/8" above the first layer of plywood we put on the finished ceiling.









The IB3 clips were spaced every 16".












We wrapped a thin plastic around the duct to improve air flow and prevent any fiberglass from blowing into the room. I can't imagine this would cause any issues with the sound proofing. I'm thinking of using the plastic wrapped insulation as well inside the mufflers. It seems it would also help improve the airflow.
post #449 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Ted,

Do you have any data/knowledge on the 1/2" ultra light drywall? I was getting quotes on drywall for the basement and one of the guys mentioned that he thought while the 1/2" ultra light drywall is 30% lighter, it still may have comparable STC values to 5/8" drywall.

Any thoughts
post #450 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Thanks.

So insulate the water pipe...then just put the regular insulation around it?

Yes, that's what I would recommend.
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