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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 17

post #481 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Yeah - there's a little wiggle room. I just remember someone in this thread saying his system sounded much better with the surround at 90 degrees instead of behind the listener. So I was just curious if others thought it was a big enough impact that I should make sure I stick with the 90.

UPS dropped off another package from The Sound Proofing Company which included the automatic door stops and bottom. That motivated me to get out to Lowe's and finally pick up the 36" 1 3/4" thick solid core door along with some accessories. They only had 4" hinges. Looks like Home Depot has some 4 1/2" Heavy Duty Hinges which I'll probably pick up instead. I need my door frame to span about 11", should I just use 2x12 for the frame?

Tonight I was able to make a little progress.


Put some Pipe Wrap from the Sound Proofing Company on the boots that are going into the Vent Muffler.



I screwed all the IB3 clips to the second Vent Muffler every 16" using #8 2" Screws.



Finished insulating the first vent muffler and cut the AT-Core flex duct to size.
post #482 of 3008
Thread Starter 
And some renderings with the more popular Claret Accent Red FR701 and the speaker column in the rear at 45 degree's:











post #483 of 3008
I think your close to the finished product, good work. Wanna design me a new theater!?!? haha
post #484 of 3008
I'm not a huge fan of the 45 degree rear columns.
post #485 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

I think your close to the finished product, good work. Wanna design me a new theater!?!? haha

Thanks Chase. I think I'm gonna stick to my day job. Theaters are a lot of hard work.
post #486 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTR7 View Post

I'm not a huge fan of the 45 degree rear columns.

Yeah - visually to my eye, I'm not fond of them. It does allow more walking space. But the big gotcha is I can't seem to fit any decent floor subs into them without making them extremely large.
post #487 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

I like the corner surround placement, both aesthetically and functionally.
1) There is enough interest in the room already that the back columns won't be missed.
2) Corner placement takes advantage of unused space and gives one less protrusion to stumble into in the dark.
3) You could use the majority of the column as a super chunk bass trap(assuming your surround speakers are not too monstrous).
4) Whether beneficial or not it always make me feel warm and fuzzy to angle speakers towards the listening area.

I also like the angled front speakers, just not entirely sure that 45 degrees is the correct angle. Looks a bit tangential to the back row and even appears to cross fire a bit for the center front position. Maybe 30 degrees?

Thanks DavidK442,

These are all solid points. My big problem now is squeezing in rear subs. I lose a lot of real estate with the 45 angle. A sub that's 24x24x24 just won't fit without really enlarging the angled column. With the original plan, I could squeeze a floor sub into each corner. While they would be within the columns, the rear straight columns would serve as a blocker while people walk to their seats and prevent them from accidentally running into the subs. I'm going to play a bit more and see if I can come up with any other ideas.

The framers were over last night and knocked out the majority of things to the point that I need to firm up the plan so electrical and low voltage can be ran to the exact location of the columns.
post #488 of 3008
Thread Starter 
They framers worked till 11pm last night cranking out things while I stuffed insulation in areas that were getting boxed in. All the lines were snapped for me so I can install Whisper Clips this holiday weekend.

This is the final vent muffler mounted to the joists with IB3 clips.



Notice the cold air return in between the joists? We were thinking we should remove the carboard and replace it with 3/4" OSB. Any thoughts? This seems like it could be the weak point of the room since there's only going to be clips, channle and DD/GG below it.





The vent mufflers hang down so they are just above the final first layer of 5/8" plywood will be putting on the ceiling. Only a small portion of the vent muffler will actually be screwed to the first layer of drywall...just the area surrounding the 6x10" vent.
post #489 of 3008
Thread Starter 
The Whisper Clip docs say to keep the clip 6 to 8" from the wall. I have a 13" soffit that will require two hat channels. Is it ok to butt the Whisper Clips right to the top and bottom edge leave no space at all?
post #490 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Ok. I may have answered my question and saved a big mistake by rendering this diagram first.

It looks like on inside corners, whisper clips would physically need to be at least 1.5" (EDIT: This should have read 2.5" NOT 1.5") away from the other corner to allow for the second layer to be screwed to the hat channel.

post #491 of 3008
Hi Mario - Everything is really coming along and it looks great!

First, regarding the whisperclips and distance from inside corners, yes that's a good catch (a mistake I was very close to making as well). I would say that 1.5" is still cutting it pretty close (assuming you have a little extra room). The whisperclip/channel will hang down 1.625" from the framing member and then you'll have an additional 1.25" of drywall, so your screws will need to be about 3" or more from the other side of that inside corner.

Second - on the cold air return...I'm interested to see what you come up with here. I had a similar situation (metal panning rather than cardboard) but it's too late for me as drywall is already up. Anyway, I can't speak to the cardboard vs. OSB, but I would definitely pull some of that insulation in half and feather it in between the back of the drywall and the return (you'll have 1.5" from the clip/channel space). That's what Ted White suggested to me and my understanding is that a little can go a long way in that regard and makes a big difference.

Looking great and enjoy the 4th!
post #492 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Just my 2 cents, but I prefer the original tan. The darker red color is more theater like but the contrast with the tan was a lot more striking.
As for corner placement of surrounds, I see your point about the rear subs.
Decisions, decisions. Curse those pesky contractors for working so fast!

Great to see a tan vote...not much love yet for it. Like you, I like the contrast especially with the black wood steps.
post #493 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Hi Mario - Everything is really coming along and it looks great!

First, regarding the whisperclips and distance from inside corners, yes that's a good catch (a mistake I was very close to making as well). I would say that 1.5" is still cutting it pretty close (assuming you have a little extra room). The whisperclip/channel will hang down 1.625" from the framing member and then you'll have an additional 1.25" of drywall, so your screws will need to be about 3" or more from the other side of that inside corner.

Second - on the cold air return...I'm interested to see what you come up with here. I had a similar situation (metal panning rather than cardboard) but it's too late for me as drywall is already up. Anyway, I can't speak to the cardboard vs. OSB, but I would definitely pull some of that insulation in half and feather it in between the back of the drywall and the return (you'll have 1.5" from the clip/channel space). That's what Ted White suggested to me and my understanding is that a little can go a long way in that regard and makes a big difference.

Looking great and enjoy the 4th!

Thanks. Just getting those vent mufflers up off the floor felt like a major milestone for the project.

I'll make sure to leave enough room on the whisper clips. I was going to try to mount a gang box to the drywall in the soffit...but now I'm thinking it would probably be easier and better just to have them run a whip out of the drywall...then mount a metal junction box up in the soffit. So I'm not as concerned about the channels being spread apart which gives me a little more wiggle room in the corner.

Sounds good on the cold air return. OSB then some thin layered insulation is about all we can do.

Happy 4th to you and everyone else as well.
post #494 of 3008
Thread Starter 
What's the best method for attaching OSB to the wall studs? Drywall or wood screws?
post #495 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Great to see a tan vote...not much love yet for it. Like you, I like the contrast especially with the black wood steps.

I like the tan, just not with tan carpet. I like black carpet, tan walls. I like the contrast of the tan as well.
post #496 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

My big problem now is squeezing in rear subs. I lose a lot of real estate with the 45 angle. A sub that's 24x24x24 just won't fit without really enlarging the angled column. With the original plan, I could squeeze a floor sub into each corner. While they would be within the columns, the rear straight columns would serve as a blocker while people walk to their seats and prevent them from accidentally running into the subs. I'm going to play a bit more and see if I can come up with any other ideas.

One option you might consider is custom building the subs for the rear corners. You would then be able to size them to fit the smaller space.
post #497 of 3008
I went with rear corner columns in my HT, and it has worked out pretty well. In my case, the entrance is in the rear, and located close enough to one side to make non-corner columns impractical for housing the rear surrounds. My rear corner columns serve to house the rear surrounds, and as someone suggested, the remainder acts as a superchunk trap (hidden within the columns).
post #498 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

What's the best method for attaching OSB to the wall studs? Drywall or wood screws?

My choice would be 8d nails. Screws will tend to break out the back of
the OSB on the way in and won't snug down tight to the studs. This can
be avoided , if necessary by predrilling the holes and using an impact
driver with Torx head screws. For nails, the studs should be straight
and plumb. Ring shank nails are the choice these days on many building
sites.
post #499 of 3008
Really like the drawings of the room. It looks very close to how my theater turned out. Best of luck with your build it is going to look great...
post #500 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I spent about 15 hours in the theater yesterday hanging whisper clips and started the hat channel. I had to add some blocks here and there to accomodate for proper spacing. I've probably got about another 75 or so whisper clips still to hang. But I thought I'd start with the inside soffit first and get the hat channel in just so I could see if I made any mistakes and correct them before hanging the rest. I just had to adjust a few of the inside corner clips but other than that, it went pretty well.

I'm pretty sore though. 15 hours of climbing up and down a ladder and drilling is nothing like holding a mouse and sitting at a desk all day.



One thing I meant to tweak and didn't was to make the inside soffit 12'. It ended up being 12'7" x 12'11". So I had to splice together the channels. It wasn't a big deal using the tin snips to cut the channels, but getting them connected together in tight spots next to the ceiling joists was a challenge.

I'm adding some more windows to our walk-out basement where the new office will be. So I also ran some wire to accomodate powered blinds. I have some Somfy powered blinds in our main level. For the bigger blinds, the batteries were only lasting 6 - 12 months.

I'm hoping to finalize the speaker column issues, get insulation in, install all clips and channels and hopefully have the electrician here early next week.

I broke down and ordered the Emotiva XPA-5 during their holiday sale. I'm a sucker when it comes to a sale and figured it will be much easier and save me some time when I'm terminating all these cables so I only have to do it once and make it look neat.
post #501 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

One option you might consider is custom building the subs for the rear corners. You would then be able to size them to fit the smaller space.

It's probably beyond my wood working skills and a bigger time committment than I have available. I tend to over research things before actually doing anything physical...ala my theater (6 years of planning).

I think what I'm going to do is pick a set of subs that "I think" I would purchase down the road and build around their size as far as my final room plan. Right now, I would be leaning towards adding three subs to my M&K MX-350. Place them in all four corners. I was leaning towards down the road adding three Rythmik FV15HP or Rythmik FV15. I may be able to squeeze a PC13 Ultra Cylinder into those rear angled corners but I'll need to do more research.

It looks like I'll have about 3650 Cubic Feet of space in the theater.
post #502 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

I went with rear corner columns in my HT, and it has worked out pretty well. In my case, the entrance is in the rear, and located close enough to one side to make non-corner columns impractical for housing the rear surrounds. My rear corner columns serve to house the rear surrounds, and as someone suggested, the remainder acts as a superchunk trap (hidden within the columns).

Yeah - I really like the idea of doubling them up as bass traps.
post #503 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by trek737 View Post

Really like the drawings of the room. It looks very close to how my theater turned out. Best of luck with your build it is going to look great...

Thanks trek737. Do you have a dedicated thread with pics? I'd love to take a peak at yours if I haven't already seen it.
post #504 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTR7 View Post

I like the tan, just not with tan carpet. I like black carpet, tan walls. I like the contrast of the tan as well.

Jury is still out on the color scheme right now. I was able to track down a Masland carpet dealer and will be getting some samples and estimates. The black carpet is growing on me though.
post #505 of 3008
Thread Starter 
So while hanging some clips I ran into a scenario where two hat channels will meet at 90 degree's on the ceiling. I'm just wondering if I need to install blocking or not.

This diagram shows what I'm referring to:


I'm curious as to whether the two hat channels actually need to almost touch...meaning I would have to install some additional blocking so that the overhang on the channel doesn't exceed 8". I would currently have a distance between those two intersects of about 8".

Anyone?
post #506 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Ok. Finished installing all the Whisper Clips. I put most of the ceiling insulation up except for the joists with the cold air returns. I'm planning to enclose the areas in the theater with 1/2" or 3/4" osb.



Is it better to have more or less clips near where the projector is going to be mounted? Initially I thought adding an extra there would be a good idea to support the weight; however, I thought that might stiffen that area and possibly cause the projector to tremble during loud bass scenes. Anyone? I currently ran the row near the project with clips spaced about 35" apart. There will be 5/8" plywood hanging into the room about 12" so I thought that would help support the weight and the projector.
post #507 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Happy 4th Everyone!!!

What's the technique for mounting the projector electrical gang box to the ceiling and compensating for the whisper clip, channel and DD/GG depth?
post #508 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Happy 4th Everyone!!!

What's the technique for mounting the projector electrical gang box to the ceiling and compensating for the whisper clip, channel and DD/GG depth?

Use a remodel box and secure the box the drywall rather than the framing.
post #509 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Use a remodel box and secure the box the drywall rather than the framing.

Thanks. I thought maybe for sound proofing it would have to be mounted before with a putty pad.


Can anyone educate me on the affects of enclosing a sub within a cabinet? As I'm working on the front stage, I'm just wondering if the bass will suffer if maybe the ports are being blocked or the woofer doesn't align perfectly with the speaker grills. Any tips or suggestions are welcome?
post #510 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Thanks. I thought maybe for sound proofing it would have to be mounted before with a putty pad.

If you coordinate the drywallers you can install the box in the first layer of GWB and putty it before you install the sheet.

I'm not sure what would be worse.. sandwiching the GWB between a rigid box an a cover plate, or just omitting the putty (you could seal the penetrations in the box afterwards).
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