The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 19

Electricians ran all the whips for outlets and lighting. Only two gang boxes for light switches are in the perimeter walls. All other outlets will be in columns or false walls. Looks like I'll be using a total of 6 breakers and sharing one more that's on the generator for emergency lighting. I routed all my in room cable runs through the studs and just need to acoustic caulk the holes and then finish insulation. Then pick up 5/8" plywood and sob for the first layer.

I'll need to figure out how much material to order so that doesn't hold the project up. After showing my wife the renderings, she made the final decision and it looks like well be going with the claret red.

I forgot to mention. We ran one more 20amp circuit to the theater rack for the projector. This way I can have the projector on a backup ups and/or power conditioner. Then I'm using an InWall Power Solution product to extend the projector outlet back to the theater rack.

Turned out to be one roll short of R13...but got most of the insulation completed. All holes acoustic caulked and pads on the light gang boxes.

I'll probably throw some R19 into the soffits just for good measure.

There's a gas line that comes into the house that is audible through the insulation. So I'm wondering if the double drywall will take care of that or if I should treat it. Also, there's a water drain running through the soffit that I might try to address. The furnace room may also need a layer of drywall if I end up being able to still hear that.

Anyone have recommendations for places to order the Guilford of Maine fabric from?

Thanks. That's who I called first. Still waiting on another quote before I pull the trigger.

I'm looking at ordering 90+ yards!


What are people using to bump out their walls 1" to tack the fabric to?

As others, I'm a little hesitant to put OC on the upper walls - especially after handling over 30 bags of the fluffy insulation. Will the 16oz Cotton batting provide the same results?

The Theater Foyer was rocked today. I ended up putting 5/8" on the walls and double 5/8" on the ceiling. I'll be mounting a 40" LED TV in portrait to display the currently playing movie poster. I might also provide a moving ticker along the top or bottom to show some other details like how many movies the theater has played since it opened, how many minutes total played, display what time the movie end. Still haven't put much thought into other ideas yet...but just some ideas off the top of my head. Perhaps smaller thumbs along the bottom of the last 5 or 6 movies played.



Here's the drywalled DeadVent enclosure that routes through the closet. I was so tempted to turn it into a photo booth given the bench like seating. The idea popped a little late before the drywallers showed up that I didn't have time to research it further. So no wiring was routed to make that happen.


I think will be going with this light for the theater foyer:

Current plan is to attach 1" oc above 2'6" on the side and back walls. Then cover with fabric. The front screen wall will have wall to ceiling corner bass traps made of oc and 4" oc on the entire back wall behind the acoustically transparent screen.

Sorry guys. Not much progress in the theater at the moment since it's filled up with stuff while the rest of the basement is drywalled.

Roger,

I'll need to break out the Sound Production book again to see what's in there regarding room treatment. I probably should see what Dennis could recommend. I just don't want to open a big can of worms to slow the entire process. Although, I wish I would have done that service way before beginning. Would have saved me a ton of time and research.

I guess I was just replicating what I've seen other theater's on the AVS do. Which is typically 1" OC along the walls.

Jason,

Congrats on building your first custom house. It's an experience. Requires lots of patience and more money than you budget for.

In regards to your questions.

1) Yeah. I just used a razor to slit open the ThemoPan. Then sealed it back afterwards with 181 tape.

2) You could probably find more information about the dead box on the soundproofing.com website. But I installed that instead of putting in a cold air return and introducing noise to other rooms. So the hot air is taken from the top side of the theater and forces into the lower side of the basement. There is an inline fan that moves the air and is powered. A rotary knob is used to control the speed of the fan so I can dial in the amount of air to take from the room. The enclosure is designed to reduce the inline fan noise because it is fairly loud.

3) I'm not familiar with the Green Glue clips and/or how they differ from the Whisper Clips. The guys at Sound Proofing Company have been helpful so I bought lots of items they carried.

Hopefully that is helpful. But let me know if you need further clarification.

Ok. Looking for some advice on the structual integrity of extending 5/8" drywall into the room in order to hand the can lights.


Here's what I'm thinking of doing as of now. This would allow me to use 5/8" drywall on both layers of the ceilings and probably speed up the process and lower costs.

My question is can I cantilever the drywall into the room 13 1/2" without it sagging over time and be able to support the weight of up to 16 3" can lights and some black lights? I'll also want to mount trim and crown to the soffit.

I was thinking of using some metal L-Brackets to help.


Any thoughts or experiences from others would be appreciated?

Perhaps this diagram will clear things up a bit. I'm still plannning to screw the drywall to the hat channels.

Thanks Ted.

I check out some of the nicer plywood at a local hardware store and it still seemed a bit wavey which is why I'm trying to see if there is another method using drywall instead. I was worried about the joints butting up together seamlessly. I guess that could be resolved by sandwiching the trim and 2x4 on top together though.

The other thought was just to extend both layers of drywall into the room with Green Glue inbetween...making it more rigid and solid.

The can lights will easily work with 5/8" too, but once I go to something thicker, it might be more work to get them to fit properly.

I'm open to other ideas if anyone has any.

The 2x4 would extend the length of all four inside soffits. They'd each be about 12' in length.

Thanks Roger. That does make alot of sense to not overly treat just the high frequencies. I blew off the dust on the Sound Reproduction book and have been reading the last few chapters again.

If nothing else, staggering the walls (opposite each other) with the 1" would seem to provide better results and reduce any potential flutters. I'm not sure how I would add 6-8" diffusors into the current plan without simply attaching them or hanging them on the wall/fabric and making them look more like artwork. The deflectors might be a possible solution too. My columns are rectangle, so I don't think they will provide much assistance in that area. I do have space in the columns for some absorportion or even smaller diffusors about a foot wide. The book placed them on the sides of the speakers and absorpition above/below the speakers. So my theory was to maybe put 2" OC in the columns. That would give me a good mix of 1", 2" and 4" OC around the room.

There are some great diagrams in the book of sample wall configurations.