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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 20

post #571 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Did all that plywood fall off the back of a truck or something? Curious as to why you used it? Additional layer of mass?

Don't think I am a fan of your light can idea, but I'll see when it is all done.

Hi LarryM,

It took two trips because of the weight using my trailer. Not fun unloading 54 4x8 sheets by yourself.

The plywood is only going on a portion of the ceiling. I used a higher grade plywood because it will be exposed for all to see but painted black. The part that hangs into the room is where I'll be putting the can lights.

I'm hoping the can light idea pans out.
post #572 of 3008
Wow Mario - Really coming along now! Looking good!
post #573 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Hi LarryM,

It took two trips because of the weight using my trailer. Not fun unloading 54 4x8 sheets by yourself.

The plywood is only going on a portion of the ceiling. I used a higher grade plywood because it will be exposed for all to see but painted black. The part that hangs into the room is where I'll be putting the can lights.

I'm hoping the can light idea pans out.


I'll see when it is all done, but I am skeptical the exposed sections will look good even painted flat black

Why don't you want to close in the can lights?
post #574 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Wow Mario - Really coming along now! Looking good!

Thanks AirBenji.

Looks like carpenters are scheduled Wednesday. Drywall Thursday.
post #575 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post


I'll see when it is all done, but I am skeptical the exposed sections will look good even painted flat black

Why don't you want to close in the can lights?

Worst case if the exposed plywood sections don't look good painted black, I can put some type of laminate on it.

There were a couple reasons for doing it the way I did.
1) To prevent having to build backer boxes for possibly up to 16 can lights (still on the fence about how many I will be adding to the soffit)
2) I'm planning on eventually doing the painted star ceiling. I was advised that a longer overhang will bring the black lights (which charge the stars) further to the middle of the room producing a better effect.

I'm still trying to decide on black paint. I'm leaning towards Benjamin Moore. My theater foyer will be the first test.
post #576 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Worst case if the exposed plywood sections don't look good painted black, I can put some type of laminate on it.

There were a couple reasons for doing it the way I did.
1) To prevent having to build backer boxes for possibly up to 16 can lights (still on the fence about how many I will be adding to the soffit)
2) I'm planning on eventually doing the painted star ceiling. I was advised that a longer overhang will bring the black lights (which charge the stars) further to the middle of the room producing a better effect.

I'm still trying to decide on black paint. I'm leaning towards Benjamin Moore. My theater foyer will be the first test.

Why do you need backer boxes? The lights are already in the sound proof room? Unless you're trying to avoid sound bouncing around the soffit, but I don't know if that is an issue. I guess a sound expert will need to clarify.

Painted star ceiling I was only aware of the fiber optic star ceiling...I'll have to look into that.

I recommend the BM paint, but I also work for BM so maybe I am biased
or if you go for the Rosco stage paint, thats good with me too
post #577 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Hi LarryM,

Yeah. That was the main reason for my soffit/can design was to prevent doing backer boxes for all those lights. I used plywood where the cans will be mounted because I felt it was stronger than hanging 5/8" drywall into the room a foot.

I decided to use OSB on the walls because it would be easy to attach columns and trim without locating studs.

There is a thread about painted star ceilings.
post #578 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Well - the walls are finally closed up. We worked from 6pm until about 2:30am to get it done before the drywall. I put acoustic caulk all the around the perimeter. It looks like a racquetball court.









post #579 of 3008
Awesome!! This is inspiring me to do some hard work this weekend!!
post #580 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Thanks AirBenji. Glad I could be that spark.

Looks like drywall will go in tomorrow. Good thing, because it looks like my wife could pop anytime now. Crunch time.
post #581 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Thanks AirBenji. Glad I could be that spark.

Looks like drywall will go in tomorrow. Good thing, because it looks like my wife could pop anytime now. Crunch time.

Wow you are making progress.
Looks awesome in its current state
post #582 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Wow you are making progress.
Looks awesome in its current state

Yeah. I"m pretty tired of breathing in insulation. So it was great to close that in.

I was hoping I wouldn't be able to hear the furnace on the other side of the wall after the double wall, insulation and layer of OSB...but you it's still audible. I'm hoping that final layer of drywall and green glue will do the trick.
post #583 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Yeah. I"m pretty tired of breathing in insulation. So it was great to close that in.

I was hoping I wouldn't be able to hear the furnace on the other side of the wall after the double wall, insulation and layer of OSB...but you it's still audible. I'm hoping that final layer of drywall and green glue will do the trick.

Pulled this off another site

"drywall has a better mass value than MDF(better blocking sound) and OSB has more glue than plywood which means it would have a better dampening effect."

I'm guessing once you put the drywall up you should notice a difference. How many layers of drywall are you doing?
post #584 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Hope so. Just a layer of 5/8" drywall is going on the osb.
post #585 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Hope so. Just a layer of 5/8" drywall is going on the osb.

Which wall is the furnace on?
post #586 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Here's a diagram showing the furnace location relative to the theater.
post #587 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Here's a diagram showing the furnace location relative to the theater.

I was going to recommend an extra layer of dywall on that side but it looks to be the longest wall so it'll be a bit of work
post #588 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Worst case, I could add a layer within the furnace room instead. Right now it's open with insulation. Although there's a lot of things going on in there (including the main duct) that may prevent me from completely sealing the room so I'm not sure how much good it would do me. Plus, I probably won't truly find out how well the second layer is working until the green glue settles in which I hear can take 30 days. Hoping for the best.
post #589 of 3008
You sure the sound isn't actually coming from the room's door ?
post #590 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

You sure the sound isn't actually coming from the room's door ?

or through the ducts?

Edit: I see now you've gone to pretty significant lengths with the ducting - so probably not. Your thread has moved fast.
post #591 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

You sure the sound isn't actually coming from the room's door ?

Yeah. It's louder in the theater room than outside of it. It's also kind of a lower rumbling given all the OSB in the room.
post #592 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

or through the ducts?

Edit: I see now you've gone to pretty significant lengths with the ducting - so probably not. Your thread has moved fast.

Yeah - nothing through the ducts.
post #593 of 3008
Hi Mario - I think the GG and layer of drywall will make a huge difference once the glue has some time to cure. I have had 2 layers up in some sections for about 15 days now and the difference is substantial. And I can tell (using the "knock test") that the glue is still curing because the pitch of the knock is changing.

If you do decide to add an additional layer, I would consider doing it on the side of the furnace. Maybe a good subject to discuss with Ted, but I have seen him say several times that attacking the sound on the side where it starts is the best recipe.

Good luck with the drywall!!
post #594 of 3008
Thread Starter 
That's very encouraging.

I asked the drywallers just to throw a 5/8" sheet on the furnace side just where the furnace is located - where there weren't too many cutouts. It won't completely cover the inside of that room wall, but it may deflect some of the noise.
post #595 of 3008
Thread Starter 
They knocked out the drywall. Took 3 guys about 6 hours straight. Went through 3 1/2 five gallons of Green Glue. They had initially buried a 4 gang switch box...but fortunately I caught it shortly afterwards.

Taping and mudding starts Monday!

Looks like I need to get a parts list together for the next phase and start ordering.







post #596 of 3008
Coming together nicely and fast...!
post #597 of 3008
Jeez! Can you send those guys to my house next?!? Looks awesome!
post #598 of 3008
Mario,

I was checking out page 1 and notice you're doing 2 rows with a bar in the back.

What is the distance of row 1 (just realized 13'8")and row 2?

Also what are your plans for room acoustics?
post #599 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I went around today and used acoustic caulk on all the corners and where the ceiling meets the walls. It looked like the drywallers didn't use enough.

AirBenji,
I'll send 'em right over now that they're done with mine.

LarryM,
It looks like I have 2'6" planned in between the rows. It's been a while since I phsycially tested that measurement. That's just how I have it set up in my 3D model...so I'm assuming that's what I came up with over a year ago when I actually set them up. If I remember correctly, 2'6" was a little tight if you were taller than me and fully reclined. I'll just have to force taller people to sit in the front row.

I'll probably put the chairs in the room next week after the final primer goes on the wall and the room gets cleaned up just to get a feel for the space.

I need to tell the electricians where to spot the electrical/data box that is going in the cement for the back row. I think they are going to try to burrow through the cement and put in a floor box. I just need to make sure it doesn't land right where the seat feet are and that it doesn't interfere with the recliners. I'll also be able to put the speaker wire in the box for the butt kickers.
post #600 of 3008
Thread Starter 
LarryM,

Looks like row 2 viewing distance to screen is about 16'5".

I'm getting ready to place my order for the acoustical stuff. Current plan of attack is 4" OC on the front wall. Bass Traps in the front corners cut from 2" OC at 45 degrees.

I plan to put 4" on the upper back wall where the door is and 1" on the upper back wall where the sconces are.

Then I plan to put 1" on the upper side walls. I don't plan on putting it everywhere on the side walls. I'll alternate them to keep the room from becoming too dead and absorbing too much highs.
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