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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 27

post #781 of 2752
Thread Starter 
I finished emptying all of the remaining sand bags into the other half of the stage. Looks like I'm about 10 bags shy. So I'll pick those up tonight and finish that phase up.

I need to zero in on the construction of the false screen wall next.

For the some of the side walls, If I'm putting one inch acoustic material on the wall, should I furring out the wall exactly 1" or should I plan for 1.25" to make sure the material doesn't push against the GOM fabric?

Another composite image I created blending reality with vision:
post #782 of 2752
Nice work!

Bud
post #783 of 2752
Mario

I may have missed it earlier in the thread, but are you going with a curved or flat screen?
post #784 of 2752
Thread Starter 
I decided to stick with the flat screen.
Mainly due to the costs it added.
post #785 of 2752
Thread Starter 
Got around to putting in insulation in the remaining steps.



post #786 of 2752
The build is looking good!
I have been following closely because I am working on a room of my own.

Here is my question that I didn't see in the thread, how do you hang (prep) for the projector with the osb layer/green glue/ drywall?

I have built the my layered light boxes, but I cannot think through the projector without leaving a big whole in the soundproofing?
post #787 of 2752
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jharri01 View Post

The build is looking good!
I have been following closely because I am working on a room of my own.

Here is my question that I didn't see in the thread, how do you hang (prep) for the projector with the osb layer/green glue/ drywall?

I have built the my layered light boxes, but I cannot think through the projector without leaving a big whole in the soundproofing?

In my case, I added a few extra whisper clips in the area where the projector will hang. Then I can just screw the projector mount through the drywall and OSB.

I'm not sure what big hole you'd be making unless your are not planning on suspending it from the ceiling and planning to put it into a wall.
post #788 of 2752
GOTCHA!!

For some reason I had a pole mount in my head and was worried how to properly get it sealed up!

This makes PERFECT sense!
post #789 of 2752
Hey Mario - I saw your question in another thread about attaching linacoustic or other material to the walls...I think most people use something like this:
http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stor...AID=1023613640.
Hope that helps...and things are coming along great!
post #790 of 2752
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Hey Mario - I saw your question in another thread about attaching linacoustic or other material to the walls...I think most people use something like this:
http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stor...AID=1023613640.
Hope that helps...and things are coming along great!

I happened to have been on the phone with a guy from Lowes to get more sand when I read your post. Doesn't look like they carry anything locally longer than 1 3/4". I was thinking I could just use 3" nails and some fender washers instead.

The shorter ones may work for areas where I only need 1" of material attached to the wall. The question I have is will these go into the OSB or do you just get a length long enough to drive into the drywall alone?
post #791 of 2752
You are not holding hardly any weight with them at all, should be fine going into drywall only with them.
post #792 of 2752
Good question...I noticed that Lowe's doesn't appear to carry anything longer than 1.75" in my area. If you search Lowe's without entering your zip code, they have 3" but I don't know how that helps us. I think I'll need to find something other than just going into the drywal...especially for the ceiling behind the stage. Maybe you can just purchase the caps and put them on your own nail/screw...

I'm picking up my OC703 and 705 tomorrow from a local place...I won't tell you the price because I think it will make you mad at ATS...sorry.
post #793 of 2752
I used nails with applied plasti-caps (plastic fender washer). Back in the stone ages when I did this, I replaced the nails with ling drywall screws.

To do this again today, I'd be inclined to spray a bit of 3M adhesive (#77 black can) and secure with a few of those nails with plastic washers.

As tbraden32 said, not much weight here...
post #794 of 2752
You could buy your own screws from Lowes/HD and pick these up from Mcmaster:

95880A900 or 95880A500. They are about $7 for QTY 50.

Out of curiosity (I'm sure I've read it somewhere) is the insulation in the riser for a bass trap, or something else?

I wouldn't think it would work as a bass trap being there is solid wood surrounding the insulation, but I can't think of anything else...
post #795 of 2752
Beemer - in many instances the riser is just filled with insulation to prevent unwanted resonances within the room.

In other situations, holes are strategically placed in the riser in order for it to function as a Helmholtz resonator. My understanding is that this can get complicated quickly, but the Helmholtz resonator is generally tuned to attack a certain small range of frequencies when room issues are identified by an acoustician.

Finally other people have created "swiss cheese" style risers (ones with a whole bunch of holes in them) that apparently function as broadband bass absorbers.

- I'm far from qualified to be discussing this stuff and I have never seen or measured the use of any of these in practice, but that's a general overview of what I have seen discussed here on the forum (and I'll be attempting my own Helmholtz resonator soon... ).
post #796 of 2752
Interesting, thanks for the answer!
post #797 of 2752
Thread Starter 
Anyone see an issue with me using roofing nails and fender washers? I was thinking of caulking the washer so it doesn't rattle from metal on metal.

I think the 3M spray would work for me on the first layer where the foil is against the back wall, but because of the recycled denim, I'm not sure if that would work as well when trying to attach the second layer of foil to the denim.

In my case, I just filled the stairs with insulation to prevent any resonation.
post #798 of 2752
Thread Starter 
I finished putting the last 10 bags of sand into the front stage this evening. I also was able to cut all the OC703 for the front corner bass traps.

I created this makeshift cutting table out of 1/2" osb and some left over metal from my drop ceiling corner metal. The OSB grabbed the OC703 while the metal provided a nice smooth edge to run the blade along. The 2x4 gave me a nice clean 2' cut every time.





For cutting the 2x2's in half, I rigged this:


After doing about half of them, I realized it was just easier to use a straight line piece of metal at a 45 and score the OC703 with the turkey cutting knife. Then remove the metal ruler and then cut all the way through.

This entire process actually went very quickly.

I mounted a 1/2" osb shelf to set the pie shaped OC703 bass traps on. I left it 30" off the stage to allow for future subs should I ever decide to go big!



I measured it so they'd fit pretty snug up against the ceiling. Any need for me to cover them with some fabric even though they won't be seen but just to keep the fibers from separating?


post #799 of 2752
Thread Starter 
I officially finished building the DBox platform. It was much more difficult to do than I thought and probably took a couple hours. Since everything is square and the bolts needs to be aligned just right, it was careful balance of tighten and loosen. Unfortunately it fell on my toe as I was putting it back in place. I'm afraid to see what it looks like, but it doesn't feel broken.

I'm also trying to finalize the screen size. I think I may go down to a 136" wide 2.35 screen. This will give me a little more room in order to squeeze the subs in and make it a little more comfortable for front row viewers.

I did a quick test with the projector to see how the sizes of 16:9 and 2.35 images will look to scale. (The Transformers 2 turned out to be 2.40)



post #800 of 2752
Thread Starter 
I was able to tackle a few more items tonight.

The two layers of recycled denim were added to the top of the screen wall.

You can see how big the 50' rolls are.



I ended up just using the roofing nails and fender washers along with some 3M spray. A bit challenging to do by myself, but I was able to rig something up to hold one end while I started on the other. I put some liquid nails on the washers and head of the nail to hopefully prevent any unwanted metal on metal sounds when the room shakes.



I then tackled the water pipe sticking into the lower screen wall.

Here's what I needed to soundproof.


I framed it with 2x4's on end.



Then applied some acoustic caulk around the edges before putting on two layers of 3/4" OSB.



I have to snug my speakers against the screen wall. So I may just put another two layers of recycled denim underneath and then cutout the denim once I know for sure where I'll be putting the speakers.
post #801 of 2752
I am not a sound expert but why did you only do half the wall? I recall seeing other build threads where they did the entire wall? Is it just for making room for subs? But then why only half denim?

Thanks
post #802 of 2752
Hey! Is that a scene from the movie Tinkerbell I see? Not ashamed to say that I own it, watch it and like it. Tuesday I was home sick with the flu, feverish and fully medicated. Tinkerbell took on a whole new meaning of magical wonder.

Like 95% of the Construction Forum members, I'm following your thread with eager anticipation. Great work!
post #803 of 2752
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

I am not a sound expert but why did you only do half the wall? I recall seeing other build threads where they did the entire wall? Is it just for making room for subs? But then why only half denim?

Thanks

Hi Larry,

The bottom wall still needs to be covered yet. I may need to do a few other things before I finish up that portion though. I'll be leaving the corners empty for now until I officially have subs though.
post #804 of 2752
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Hey! Is that a scene from the movie Tinkerbell I see? Not ashamed to say that I own it, watch it and like it. Tuesday I was home sick with the flu, feverish and fully medicated. Tinkerbell took on a whole new meaning of magical wonder.

Like 95% of the Construction Forum members, I'm following your thread with eager anticipation. Great work!

You caught me. I pulled a movie from my daughters recently watched list.

You didn't happen to be listening to Pink Floyd and have the audio from TinkerBell turned down did you? Well I hope your flu is on the way out and you get better soon. No fun!
post #805 of 2752
I am so jealous I hate you mcascio What is the reason the corner insulation doesnt go all the way to the floor ? Subs going there ?

Why didn't you end up with a false wall ? I think personally having those corners showing would drive me insane.
post #806 of 2752
Thread Starter 
Hi HFGuy,

That is correct. The subs will sit below the corner bass traps. The entire back wall, along with speakers/subs, will be hidden by decorative panels that still need to be built.

I'm holding off on the construction of the false wall until I figure out how to do the oak finish work for the steps and bullnose. I was hoping my former neighbor who built my outdoor tv/lift cabinet was going to be able to do the work but his shoulder may require surgery so I may need to find someone else. I didn't want to build the false wall yet since the OSB top serves as a great template in case someone wants to take that with them and build it in their own shop.

I may start moving to the column construction in the room.

My father-in-law was over this morning applying drywall compound to the plywood soffit to hide the grain. I had sanded it this past weekend. Although, I'm thinking it may be look better with some type of black GOM fabric. Hmmmm....

Late last night, I figured out the can spacing for the soffit. I have to move some of the electrical outlets up there in order to fit the cans that I'll be getting from Lowes. I've decided to go with 16 cans total. 4 per side. That places them strategically offset from the projector and the 3 cans above the screen.
post #807 of 2752
Thread Starter 
I'm looking for some opinions. I'm deciding what to do with the soffit that holds the can lights. I'm playing with the idea of using fabric and thought maybe the same red from the walls might look good.

Which one do you guys prefer?

Original Plan was Black Paint but may switch to Fabric



Now some renders with Red:








post #808 of 2752
I likw the black, but I think the red is a little nicer
post #809 of 2752
Red
post #810 of 2752
The black makes the stars look more realistic.
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