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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 34

post #991 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post


Interesting approach to the column near the screen. I may be stealing that idea

Larry, that column is for the room and just up there out of the way. I'm still tweaking the front wall though.
post #992 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I went with these:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1&ddkey=Search

By far the best LED's I've ever seen that produce natural colors and light - plus dimmable.

These look nice. Do you have a link for the housing you selected?
post #993 of 3008
Mario the theater is coming along great!

On this bulb business I too have been on the hunt for the perfect bulb, first I thought I'd insert this graphic.



I've found that the best bulbs to use in my blue/gray theater are GE reveal bulbs that have a light temperature of 2850. I find that regular bulbs have too much yellow and turns blue to a mud looking color.

Those LEDs you linked say 2700 in their specifications and would be too yellow in my case but great for other applications, any one concerned that they are too blue should try one.
post #994 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Mario

The renders are slowly coming to life

"Slowly" is the key word.
post #995 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

These look nice. Do you have a link for the housing you selected?

You can use a variety of housing. In my soffit, I'm using the Juno IC1's:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_90674-38269-...d=10151&rpp=24
post #996 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Mario the theater is coming along great!

On this bulb business I too have been on the hunt for the perfect bulb, first I thought I'd insert this graphic.



I've found that the best bulbs to use in my blue/gray theater are GE reveal bulbs that have a light temperature of 2850. I find that regular bulbs have too much yellow and turns blue to a mud looking color.

Those LEDs you linked say 2700 in their specifications and would be too yellow in my case but great for other applications, any one concerned that they are too blue should try one.

Yeah. It's pretty crazy. Years ago you never had to worry about picking the color of your bulb. The nice thing about the 2700k color is they do blend well with the incandescent's when they are in the same room.

I use 3500k CFL's in closets to see colors more naturally.
post #997 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Worked in the theater until about 2am last night. Finished another 3 speaker frames. I'm becoming a lot more efficient with each one.

It looks like a column grave yard in the theater at the moment.


I also picked up some more wood for attaching the GOM to the wall in between the columns. I'm using 1"x2". The denim is only 3/4" thick.

I may tackle installing the 4 rear columns just to get them out of the way...and put off the front wall that I've been dreading.
post #998 of 3008
Thread Starter 
One more milestone.

I finished building all of the in-room column removable magnetic speaker frames at about 2:30am this morning. I may start mounting the back columns today.

post #999 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

One more milestone.

I finished building all of the in-room column removable magnetic speaker frames at about 2:30am this morning. I may start mounting the back columns today.


Columns look really good! I am going to start my column build today, I hope I could come up something as good as yours.
post #1000 of 3008
Thread Starter 
I think yours are round so you've got your work cut out.

BTW, are 4 screws enough to hold each column onto the 2x2 furring strips on the wall?
post #1001 of 3008
Would there be any benefit in putting the recycled denim on the walls in the corners where your subs will be? Under the corner traps?
post #1002 of 3008
^^^^^^^^^^

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Hi Larry,

The bottom wall still needs to be covered yet. I may need to do a few other things before I finish up that portion though. I'll be leaving the corners empty for now until I officially have subs though.

Nevermind.
post #1003 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

BTW, are 4 screws enough to hold each column onto the 2x2 furring strips on the wall?


Your (beautifully crafted) columns can clearly stand and maintain an upright position on their own. So the screws won't be under much stress, they'll just be playing the role of preventing an accidental tip over and making sure the columns hug the wall. Based on that thought process I think you should be fine with 4 screws. Why are you limiting yourself to 4 though?
post #1004 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I think yours are round so you've got your work cut out.

BTW, are 4 screws enough to hold each column onto the 2x2 furring strips on the wall?

No, I changed design, due to the size of my surround speakers, round column will be too big.

You mean two screws on each side? I will shoot some finish nails.
post #1005 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by scl23enn4m3 View Post

Your (beautifully crafted) columns can clearly stand and maintain an upright position on their own. So the screws won't be under much stress, they'll just be playing the role of preventing an accidental tip over and making sure the columns hug the wall. Based on that thought process I think you should be fine with 4 screws. Why are you limiting yourself to 4 though?

I think he wants to cover the screw hole under top and bottom trim pieces.
post #1006 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

I think he wants to cover the screw hole under top and bottom trim pieces.

Ah that makes sense. Thanks.
post #1007 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

One more milestone.

I finished building all of the in-room column removable magnetic speaker frames at about 2:30am this morning. I may start mounting the back columns today.

Mario,

Congrats on the progress! I made some progress on my theater, the lumber yard delivered according to the delivery record 4,500lbs of material

My back, arms, and legs agree with their weight calculation

Luckily I had my dad, brother, and 2 neighbors and within 4.5 hours we got everything into the basement

Looks like i'll be starting my own thread very soon!
post #1008 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scl23enn4m3 View Post

Your (beautifully crafted) columns can clearly stand and maintain an upright position on their own. So the screws won't be under much stress, they'll just be playing the role of preventing an accidental tip over and making sure the columns hug the wall. Based on that thought process I think you should be fine with 4 screws. Why are you limiting yourself to 4 though?

Here's what I ended up doing yesterday before I posted.

I attached (4) 16" 2x2 furring strips to the wall using (2) screws each.
Then I elevated the column with a 1/2" mdf board to get it off the ground. Leveled and screwed it in where the crown is going and the chair rail.

I'm trying not to use too many furring strips in case I need that space inside the column down the road for larger speakers or sound treatments.

The columns are going to be sandwiched on each side by more furring strips for the fabric on the top half of the column and 3/4" mdf on the bottom 2'6" of the column for the wainscoting. If I don't screw in where the mouldings are going to hide the screws, I'll need to screw in 3/8" from the edge of the mdf. So I tried not to do that so I didn't break off the edge. I guess I could shoot a few extra 16 ga 2" finishing nails in close to the edge if you guys think it will be necessary. Just having the screws gives me an easy option for disassembly if needed.




post #1009 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quick question.

As I mentioned I'll be attaching 3/4" mdf in between the columns from the floor to 2'6". Should I use any adhesive when attaching to the wall or just screws? Remember the first layer on the wall is OSB. I have some green glue left over. I could put some of that on before screwing into the wall.
post #1010 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post


Mario,

Congrats on the progress! I made some progress on my theater, the lumber yard delivered according to the delivery record 4,500lbs of material

My back, arms, and legs agree with their weight calculation

Luckily I had my dad, brother, and 2 neighbors and within 4.5 hours we got everything into the basement

Looks like i'll be starting my own thread very soon!

That's great. At least you had some help. Excited to see your new thread and follow along.
post #1011 of 3008
Mario, I'm not sure of your method of attachment of the fabric on the upper wall between the columns, If you are doing frames and attaching later you are good to go, If you are putting the fabric on furring on the wall you may actually want to do the fabric before securing the columns, that way you can staple on the sides of the furring that will be hidden by the columns.

I only did a couple of columns in my basement and I secured with screws through the front face into furring on the ceiling and floor. I put the screws where they would be hidden by crown and baseboard.
post #1012 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Quick question.

As I mentioned I'll be attaching 3/4" mdf in between the columns from the floor to 2'6". Should I use any adhesive when attaching to the wall or just screws? Remember the first layer on the wall is OSB. I have some green glue left over. I could put some of that on before screwing into the wall.

My brain isn't working today, but if I understand you you're using the 3/4" MDF for wainscoting.

I'm not sure of the sticking power of GG, but I would go with Liquid Nail and and some finish nails (no screws) and you'll never get it off
post #1013 of 3008
Stupid question here, why dont the columns touch the ceiling or floor ?
post #1014 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

Stupid question here, why dont the columns touch the ceiling or floor ?

Floor for moisture as MDF doesn't make nice. I don't think it will be an issue but better safe thn sorry.

Not sure why for the ceiling
post #1015 of 3008
Your column is constructed with MDF which is quite heavy, and is off ground about 0.5", so I would attach a piece furring strip horizontally at back side of front side and attach two 2x2" vertically on inside corners as two extra legs to support the column.
post #1016 of 3008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Not sure why for the ceiling

The gap at the ceiling is probably for clearance to make it easier to get the column in place. In the renderings, he has crown molding going around the top of the columns, so the gap should easily be hidden.
post #1017 of 3008
Thread Starter 
One more column mounted. I also cut the outlets for the electrical outlet in the column and optional subwoofer jack. I ended up adding one more furring strip near the bottom of the column. The baseboard will hide that screw.

Initially I was planning to just staple the bottom openings in the columns with GOM and then install the moulding over it. This forces me to paint the moulding before installation since it'll be right next to the GOM fabric. Another problem is if the fabric ever got damaged or torn, it would be a big production to remove the moulding in order to replace the fabric. So I'm thinking of making those removable as well. I was going to use 1/4" hardboard for a frame, but I'm looking for those screw clamps that you see on cabinets to hold the speaker frame tight to the frame. They look like a small 3/4" l-bracket with a screw that tightens. Anyone know what these are called and where to pick them up? I think Menard's may even carry them.













post #1018 of 3008
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Floor for moisture as MDF doesn't make nice. I don't think it will be an issue but better safe thn sorry.

Not sure why for the ceiling

You definitely want to allow some gap at the ceiling. I happened to allow just enough space for me to tilt the column upright from the ground and just clear the ceiling (1.5" gap). Ceilings are never perfectly flat/level either. It's just one less variable to fight with. The crown will cover the gap anyways.

It's challenging moving something that heavy into place with the gap let alone no gap since you can only lift it about an inch off the ground without scraping the ceiling.
post #1019 of 3008
Something like this or this?

Why no gap under the wainscoting mdf?

EDIT: It looks like you haven't secured those panels in place yet. What I thought was a screw was in fact a smudge on my screen.
post #1020 of 3008
I thought it was wiser to place columns after the carpet is installed.

Looks great, BTW!
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