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Amazing Soundproofing Document!

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
I just found the most amazing document from the California office of noise control. It lists the STC and IIC ratings for HUNDREDS of varied wall and flooring setups. Its a 6MB pdf so I don't think I can attach the file, but I can link to it. The link is http://www.toolbase.org/PDF/CaseStud...cc_ratings.pdf

If you are at all interested in soundproofing, please take a minute to look at this if you haven't seen it before. Maybe this is a common file here, but this is the first time I have ever come across it. It's the most comprehensive source of info on soundproofing I've ever seen.
post #2 of 16
Interesting document; but, STC and IIC have rather limited value in our industry.
post #3 of 16
Agreed. The walls and ceilings needed for the type of isolation we need aren't covered.

STC doesn't include the low frequencies below 125Hz. And we're all pumping out frightening levels of LF down to 20Hz. So a "high STC" wall often fails us miserably.

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...within_a_room/

This gets right to the heart of it.
post #4 of 16
Thread Starter 
Hi Ted,

I read the article on your site. I'm wondering, In my room I was attaching the 5/8 drywall directly to my ceiling joists and then using green glue between that and another sheet of 5/8 drywall. My ceilings are angled. How much of an advantage would I get from using clips and resilient channel under the drywall. Could I even use RC on an angled ceiling? I don't want to waste money by attaching all of this expensive drywall+green glue+drywall to the ceiling and having the roof act as a resonator and send noise throughout the entire neighborhood or through my entire house. I need it to be quiet outside and relatively quiet inside. (This will be a project recording studio with drums and loud guitar and bass amps.) Can you give me your expert advice.

With my current plan, I will have green glue with sealed edges from floor to ceiling between either two sheets 5/8 of drywall or two sheets of 5/8 osb (floor).

Josh
post #5 of 16
Got windows, doors in that room? Big problem.
RC is not good, bad, and not suited to ceilings. Clips + channel + drywall + GG + drywall is a good thing. Any other "holes" like HVAC vents in the room ... electrical outlets?
post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 
The side walls are standard double stud contruction with the outside walls being considered one of the stud walls. All is filled with r11 with a 1 1/2 inch gap. I closed over the windows on one side of the room, but on the other side there is a 37x24 low e replacement window which I doubled in the inner stud wall (i.e. I have two low e windows with a 1 1/2 inch air gap and I sealed the gap between the two window frames with GM trunk rubber.) The floor has a stairwell in the middle typical to many homes build circa 1920. To cover the opening of this staircase, I am fitting it with a regular solid core interior door laid flat over the opening and adding a layer of GG+ 5/8 osb to the bottom. (The door frame is reinforced with 2x4s.) This door is also sealed with GM trunk rubber. The floor itself (from the joists up) is 1/4 ply, soundboard, 5/8 TnG osb, Green Glue, 5/8 TnG with only the two layers of 5/8 osb anchored together.

I'm thinking of building small receptical boxes to go behind all of the recepticles made of osb and gg.
post #7 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

Got windows, doors in that room? Big problem.
RC is not good, bad, and not suited to ceilings. Clips + channel + drywall + GG + drywall is a good thing. Any other "holes" like HVAC vents in the room ... electrical outlets?

Hi Dennis,

Curious as to why you think RC is bad. My builder wants to use it for the ceiling of my basement, he recommends 'Auralex's RC-8 Resilient Channel'. I had originally asked for Drywall + Greenglue + Drywall. He wants to use Drywall + RC + Drywall.

If I were to guess I would think it would be due to the RC not being any good at low frequencies and possibly causing some resonance.

Any help and advice you can give would be much appreciated.

Dan
post #8 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan5 View Post

Hi Dennis,

Curious as to why you think RC is bad. My builder wants to use it for the ceiling of my basement, he recommends 'Auralex's RC-8 Resilient Channel'. I had originally asked for Drywall + Greenglue + Drywall. He wants to use Drywall + RC + Drywall.

If I were to guess I would think it would be due to the RC not being any good at low frequencies and possibly causing some resonance.

Any help and advice you can give would be much appreciated.

Dan

Dan.. start here and read the few posts afterwards

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17813082
post #9 of 16
Quote:


He wants to use Drywall + RC + Drywall

If he wants to do this for sound isolation, you need to have your builder concentrate on building and get your acoustics and sound isolation advice elsewhere. This form of construction creates a triple leaf and will defeat your intentions. There's a fair amount of useful information at www.soundproofingcompany.com
post #10 of 16
Thread Starter 
Dennis and Ted,

Did either of you get a chance to look at my previous posts in this thread? Does my construction seem sound? Will my room do a good job of blocking typical low frequency sounds from the rest of my house and neighborhood?
post #11 of 16
The stairwell is an issue. Always is. The stairwell framing is attached to the rest of the house.
post #12 of 16
Ted,
I read your link about the ceiling decoupling and it says the best method is to basically do a stager studded ceiling as the best method where I would think that a hat channel with whisperclips would be better since the stagger would still mount to the ends of the floor above it. Is this correct in thinking?
post #13 of 16
If you could check out my thread labeled sweetwood 11.1 and give me some advice that would be awesome. I have purchased some items a week or so ago from John but it would seem like I will be needing more advice and product.

Thanks,
Adam
post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb View Post

Ted,
I read your link about the ceiling decoupling and it says the best method is to basically do a stager studded ceiling as the best method where I would think that a hat channel with whisperclips would be better since the stagger would still mount to the ends of the floor above it. Is this correct in thinking?

No.

Floating ceiling (staggered joists) is far better. Fewer contact points. Plus, the new staggered joists rest atop the decoupled inner walls. Completely free-standing structure.
post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
Is there any way for me to combat the stairwell issue? Anything that has worked successfully in the past? Will creating a cover for the stairwell on hinges help to keep the sound from traveling downward?
post #16 of 16
The best solution is to build a complete wall + door in front of it.
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