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Simple Tapped Horn Tutorial using Hornresp - Page 4

post #91 of 111
Thread Starter 
Just one driver per enclosure, but it is probably best to use these in pairs. The Tang Band W6-1139 also works according to the model, but not quite as well as the Anarchy. Total volume is closer to 3 cubic feet than I wanted, but there is 1/2 a cubic foot of wood inside the cabinet as dividers for 13.5 feet of tapped horn all folded up in there. With 1/2" material it is 20.125" X 30" X 8.25" external, and there is zero wasted space inside.

I will post the modeled predictions and comparisons to the actual measurements when I am done. If worthy, rest assured I'll post drawings, plans, details, and a cutlist so that anyone else can play along at home. If my measurements are not what I expected, I will post what I did and what I found so that we can all work together and try to figure out what went wrong so that others do not make the same mistakes.

I have not posted much about this yet because I do not consider my designs done until they are built, measured, and proven. I don't want to waste other people's time with something that may not work.
post #92 of 111
Just to update things a little.

The phase response in Hornresp was tweaked awhile ago, and is now correct for THs. You can still get the odd false delay error, but it is a lot less frequently.
post #93 of 111
It also seems it was let out that the front chamber between the cone and horn at the throat created by the gap in the baffle needs to be add to the HR model.

To do this here you need to add a Vtc of 636, and Atc of 532. This will shift the FR down a few Hz to match the measured response.

It was worked out in PM, but never updated here for you guys.
post #94 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

You can still get the odd false delay error, but it is a lot less frequently.

I thought something seemed different lately

Quote:
Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

It also seems it was let out that the front chamber between the cone and horn at the throat created by the gap in the baffle needs to be add to the HR model.

I had a feeling this was the case, but assumed it didn't make too much difference in the final result unless I doubled up on the wood or something. I knew it would have an effect on the TB horn due to the 18mm thick wood, but decided to just not worry about it at the time. I don't think it really has had much effect on the final result, though the woofers act like the corner is around 15.5 Hz now.

Good to have some actual numbers I can use in future designs... I plan to keep using the 18mm shop birch as long as it stays as cheap as it has been.
post #95 of 111
This must be a dumb question because I've read a lot on tapped horns/hornresp and don't see how to translate a model to actual dimensions for building. What am I missing?
post #96 of 111
here is a mockup of a tapped horn that i did for ricci using a 21" drive.

maybe it will help. should get you pretty close.


LL
post #97 of 111
Extremely helpful tutorial!
post #98 of 111
im studying this and getting it slowly thanks to the wizard phew

only thing i cant seem to get is the width of the horn ?

does it matter ?

i see most of them are just wider than the drivers frame, what effects does this have and is it better to use multiple identical horns in one instance or more than one driver per horn ?

i think i read that if you put 2 drivers in the length of the horn it smooths out the response is that correct?
post #99 of 111
Thread Starter 
Width is up to you.

Pretty much the only criteria on setting a width is that the driver needs to fit. I like at least an inch extra, but I have cut things a little closer.



There is about 1/8" of wood left outside the rabbet on this one. As it was, the driver was a snug fit depth-wise, so I needed to design the horn a little bigger.

As far as smoothing things out with multiple drivers - Yes - to a degree would be my qualified answer. I am a big fan of multiple smaller drivers for music applications. For home theater, I have yet to find a small driver that will do the sub-20 Hz stuff at reference level without running into excursion issues, even with 4 in a cabinet. Most run out of gas at around 30 Hz. For these applications, a single larger driver is usually a better choice. The little ones just can't do the lower stuff at high enough SPLs to make it worth my while. Additionally, when you're using 4 of them, the cost adds up pretty quick, and may wind up more expensive than a larger driver that is better suited to the job.

By the way - HornResp now models parabolic flares, which is what 99.99% of us wind up building regardless of what we actually modeled. Select it the same way as conical, just choose "Par".
post #100 of 111
Guys, I'm trying to teach myself to build a couple of 16hz slim tapped horns, probably about 9" or 10" wide and 48ish" tall by X" long.

Figured I'd start by learning how to re-do the little SPUD. But I must be doing something wrong because the response looks pretty bad?

Here's the t/s parameters for the W8-740P:

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/264-854s.pdf
LL
LL

 

spudth74.txt 0.37890625k . file
post #101 of 111
Also, does anyone know how to run multiple instances of hornresp at once? I can only have one open at a time. Makes comparison between designs difficult.
post #102 of 111
Thread Starter 
It will get complicated to keep track of what design is where, but it is easy to do. Just copy all the files into another directory, like C:\\Hornresp2. I do this all the time. I've had 4 instances running at the same time, plus akabak...

Yeah, I'm not well....
post #103 of 111
Sheesh, can't believe I didn't think of that. Thanks.
post #104 of 111
Guys i'm new to tapped horns.

I was a little curious about the theory in the danley white paper where it says how at 1/4th wave-length, or corner freq, the wave has 1/2 a wavelength to travel. What i don't get is, where does the rest of the 1/2 go? Am i correct to assume that i have to count both sides of the drivers displacement, since the rear will be radiating 1/4 the WL into the throut and back while the front of the driver will act like a vaccum aswell, does this make sense? I am believing that 1/2 of the rear radiation does not emit out of the mouth at 1/4WL.
post #105 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

I've had 4 instances running at the same time, plus akabak...

Yeah, I'm not well....

Whoa, maybe there needs to be a 12-step program.

I have done 2 HRs at the same time along with AkAbak, but I normally have at least 3 horns going in AkAbak at all times, so it may be a little worse.
post #106 of 111
Thread Starter 
12 steps to the fridge, get a beer. 12 steps to the desk, model more horns...repeat. Is that what you were thinking of?

I had to put all four cores to use....

As far as the number of open sims in AkAbak??? That gets ugly fast. At least in a virtualized environment things crash gracefully......
post #107 of 111
What kind of PC gear are you running ?
post #108 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

What kind of PC gear are you running ?

Current rig?
Core i5, 2500K, clocked at 4.6, water cooled.
16 GB of RAM
256 SSD for boot, 3 TB pool for storage

I currently run Win 7 X64 as an OS, and XP as a VM through XP mode. About 8 concurrent akabak sessions will typically kill it. I've considered stepping up to a proper virtualization environment, but just lack the motivation at the moment - this rig just works, I'll wait till it breaks.
post #109 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Width is up to you.


Pretty much the only criteria on setting a width is that the driver needs to fit. I like at least an inch extra, but I have cut things a little closer.





There is about 1/8" of wood left outside the rabbet on this one. As it was, the driver was a snug fit depth-wise, so I needed to design the horn a little bigger.


As far as smoothing things out with multiple drivers - Yes - to a degree would be my qualified answer. I am a big fan of multiple smaller drivers for music applications. For home theater, I have yet to find a small driver that will do the sub-20 Hz stuff at reference level without running into excursion issues, even with 4 in a cabinet. Most run out of gas at around 30 Hz. For these applications, a single larger driver is usually a better choice. The little ones just can't do the lower stuff at high enough SPLs to make it worth my while. Additionally, when you're using 4 of them, the cost adds up pretty quick, and may wind up more expensive than a larger driver that is better suited to the job.


By the way - HornResp now models parabolic flares, which is what 99.99% of us wind up building regardless of what we actually modeled. Select it the same way as conical, just choose "Par".

so width wont affect it that much ?i was wondering how u figured out the width for a given hornpath myself
post #110 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davece View Post

so width wont affect it that much ?i was wondering how u figured out the width for a given hornpath myself

Area is the number that matters.

Baffle width fixes one of the two components in calculating area, and as it is generally consistent in a typical fold, that allows me to calculate the separation of the baffles when I lay out the fold.
post #111 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Area is the number that matters.

Baffle width fixes one of the two components in calculating area, and as it is generally consistent in a typical fold, that allows me to calculate the separation of the baffles when I lay out the fold.

ok i think i have alot more reading to do before i really play around with hornsrep lol winisd i get but hornsrep is stil confusing the hell out of me
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