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36" THT^Cube Build Thread

post #1 of 81
Thread Starter 
I'm approaching finishing my 36" wide THT build and thought I should post some a thread here.

A little info on the build: this THT is going to be built in my utility room since it does not fit through doorways! (please excuse the mess in the pics... haha). I will be cutting a hole through the wall and have the mouth firing into the corner of my HT room in the front-right corner of the screenwall. I'll be driving it with a Dayton 240w plate amp which from what I've read will be sufficient. I've also got an ECM8000 calibrated mic and the EQ/measurement equipment to go along with this so I should be able to maximize the setup quite well (this will be in the future after the build is done and up and running).

On with the pics!

On 12/30 I got the two sides cut and the layout traced:


On 12/31 I got the access panel cut, the first two panels installed, and the 3rd one ready to go on:




On 1/1 I got the sub test fit and panels 3 and 4 installed:




On 1/2 I was able to get some help from my father in law so things started moving more quickly and was able to get panels 5, 6, and 7 installed and braced:




On 1/3 we were able to get panels 8, 9, and 10 installed:



Here are a couple of pics showing the amount of effort that went into bracing this monster:




All that's left now is to mount the 2nd side and then brace the last fold. Then I can finish up the access panel mounting and install the driver! I'm currently breaking in the driver with a 20-120hz sweep overnight with 14-15v.
post #2 of 81
Excellent work and a fine job of bracing !
post #3 of 81
That thing is going to be GINORMOUS!!!!
post #4 of 81
Take some good measurements too. I have a buddy that is thinking of building a 36" version and want to see how much different it will be than the 24 or 30" versions.
post #5 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

I have a buddy that is thinking of building a 36" version and want to see how much different it will be than the 24 or 30" versions.

IITP.
post #6 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

IITP.

???

I am not good with the acronyms.
post #7 of 81
I think he's getting fresh with you......
post #8 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

???

I am not good with the acronyms.

It's In The Plans, and also here.


dbl
post #9 of 81
Its looking great so far. Im using the dayton 240watt plate amp for mine and its more than enough power. I watched all of TS which is about one of the best LFE workouts you can get and the amp barely even got warm. I was hitting 110db to 115db in room at my LP and the most power it ever saw was around 13v and thats roughly around 40watts.
post #10 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbldare View Post

and also here.


dbl

I have seen that but no offense, I could make a graph that said my pc speakers can do 140 db with 1 watt down to .5 hz. I don't doubt that they are great subwoofers, just want to see an actual nearfield measurement of a 24, 30, and 36 inch model. I know that in different rooms you will get different responses, but take a close measurment and it will be a decen frequency response graph without the room playing into it. Really more than anything, will it be worth the extra space involved with the 36" version?
post #11 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

I have seen that but no offense, I could make a graph that said my pc speakers can do 140 db with 1 watt down to .5 hz. I don't doubt that they are great subwoofers, just want to see an actual nearfield measurement of a 24, 30, and 36 inch model. I know that in different rooms you will get different responses, but take a close measurment and it will be a decen frequency response graph without the room playing into it. Really more than anything, will it be worth the extra space involved with the 36" version?

I hear ya'. I'm still in the process of finishing my basement so I won't have any measurements until then. I know there are a few guys ordering the DTS-10 and building a THT, so we are all eagerly awaiting their opinions (and measurements).


dbl
post #12 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbldare View Post

I hear ya'. I'm still in the process of finishing my basement so I won't have any measurements until then. I know there are a few guys ordering the DTS-10 and building a THT, so we are all eagerly awaiting their opinions (and measurements).


dbl

Yes but how can you TRUELY compare the two subs one costing $400 start to finish said and done. And one costing nearly 2k finished. One takes less than 1/4 the power the other one needs to acheive its claimed output. They do the same thing and are used for the same thing but are so different when compared. Sure you can pop them both in the same exact place and take measurements and see who reigns supreme there. But at the end of the day someone spent $400 and somene else spent $2k hardly comparable.
post #13 of 81
Still fun to watch though.


dbl
post #14 of 81
More like $1300-$1400 for a DTS-10 kit delivered and built with a big amp. If you already have a decent amp then the cost is about $1100. Still more expensive yes, but not even close to $2000. Also don't forget that it is made to go almost an entire octave deeper, so different design tradeoffs are made. A 36x36x30 THT is right about the same external displacement as a DTS10 (that puts it in perspective for me). The big boy 36" cube version is a few cu ft larger even. That's one big sub.
post #15 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

More like $1300-$1400 for a DTS-10 kit delivered and built with a big amp. If you already have a decent amp then the cost is about $1100. Still more expensive yes, but not even close to $2000. Also don't forget that it is made to go almost an entire octave deeper, so different design tradeoffs are made. A 36x36x30 THT is right about the same external displacement as a DTS10 (that puts it in perspective for me). The big boy 36" cube version is a few cu ft larger even. That's one big sub.

LoL there is no doubt about it being huge. I can not argue with you there. Im not trying to argue at all actually . Where can you get a sufficient amp for the DTS-10 for $200 shipped? My numbers were off now going back reading about them a little more. But i do belive i just read a post where someone paid $1200 shipped for theyre DTS-10 and $300 for ep2500 so $1500 no finish no supplies to build etc.. For the sake of it lets just say you can get away with screws glue,primer/paint, and misc. others for $100 thats still $1600 4x the cost. I know the DTS-10 is an absolute beast going down alot lower than the THT. But thats probably where the extra $1200 comes in maybe?? So im being logical how can you honestly say the two subs are compareable? There is no fair way to compare when using logic. Its like comparing a Lotus to a Ferrari both awesome performing cars compareable when on the road coarse but one can do 200mph top speed and both in totally different price points. Try this when comparing them put 80watts to both and take measurements. Thats just my opinion and its not going to change even when the numbers are posted of both.


Sorry dykz not the time nor place for this its my fault for the OT post in here.
post #16 of 81
DTS10=$975, plus shipping= $125 give or take= $1100. Behringer EP1500 $200or less. Add $100 in supplies which is very generous and you could probably do a cheap black paint job in there too. $1400. You'd have to spend basically just as much on supplies, amp, wood, finish as you do on the DTS10 with a THT. The difference is about $900 or so.

I'm not trying to argue about performance or against the THT really. The DTS10 is a lot more expensive. It's just that you can easily run 2 DTS10 kit's for around $2500-$2600 I disagree that 1 is near $2000. It can be, but if that's the case a THT can easily end up being around $1000 too, if you want a bigger plate amp, nice professional finish, get a nice EQ unit to use with it, go all out on connectors, cables etc.
post #17 of 81
Thread Starter 
Let's please not turn this into a DTS-10 vs. THT thread. This is the only THT I'll probably ever build so I won't be able to compare the widths or anything like that and I'll probably never own a DTS-10 either. I would like to build a TH-SPUD though some day.

Here's an update....

Got the second side panel put on tonight:




I also cut the final set of braces and will get those installed tomorrow! Then it's add the access panel mounts and hope the new DVC shows up by Friday!! (My original one was junk out of the box with a VC shorted out or something)
post #18 of 81
Looking great! Can't wait to hear your impressions!


dbl
post #19 of 81
that looks badass man. the quality of your workmanship is first rate. any "lessons learned" or things you might do differently/tips if you had to do it over again?
post #20 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

that looks badass man. the quality of your workmanship is first rate. any "lessons learned" or things you might do differently/tips if you had to do it over again?

I completely agree with this gentleman!

I would also like to echo the "lessons learned" question.
post #21 of 81
added your build to the master index, btw. nice pics too. pic 2 in post 17 is a little scary...reminds me of looking down the barrel of a gun. :-)
post #22 of 81
Did you end up cutting angles on the panels or just go straight and use PL?


dbl
post #23 of 81
Nice work.

Can't wait to hear your impressions once your driver arrives .

I wish I had the guts to build the 36". The wife would have killed me if I built my THT in the media room though.
post #24 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

Nice work. I wish I had the guts to build the 36". The wife would have killed me if I built my THT in the media room though.

I concur... nice job so far!

The 36" isnt an option for me as the door to my upstairs HT room is only 28" wide, so the 24" wide THT will have to do.

Dykz, what type of finish have you decided to apply to this bad boy? Stain? Paint? Duratex? Gold lame' fabric?
post #25 of 81
Thread Starter 
Wow! Thanks for the kind words guys!

Updated again...
Got the access panel flanges mounted tonight:


And the last set of braces in:


All that's left now is to pre-drill, mount the binding posts, and gasket tape the access panel before mounting the driver!

Lessons learned? Hmm... Let's see... using a brad nailer was pivotal in getting the panels mounted as it was a quick and easy way to get them to stay still once lined up (plus I didn't need any huge clamps). Other than that.... just take your time and pay very close attention to the plans. Overall, it wasn't hard - just time consuming.

As far as a finish? It will stay raw since it's in my utility room firing into the HT through the wall. The hole I cut in the wall will have some nice black speaker cloth over it though.
post #26 of 81
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbldare View Post

Did you end up cutting angles on the panels or just go straight and use PL?


dbl

I cut angles on the first two panels and said "screw it" after that as it was very tough to get the right measurements!
post #27 of 81
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin A View Post

The 36" isnt an option for me as the door to my upstairs HT room is only 28" wide, so the 24" wide THT will have to do.

You should build it 27.5" wide using 26.5" panels! It will all fit on 3 sheets of plywood.
post #28 of 81
I cut all the angles on my THT just had to,I have a table saw just had to use it
post #29 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by dykz34 View Post

You should build it 27.5" wide using 26.5" panels! It will all fit on 3 sheets of plywood.

I'm still mulling over whether to be content with the 24.5 width or upsize it to a dimension you've listed, and what would I actually gain? Another concern I have about enlarging the overall box-size is the limited footprint I have allocated for the THT's placement. I probably could shoe-horn the 27.5 wide model in the approx 28-30" space behind the sofa, but is that a problem to have such close proximity (less than 3 inches) to the side (wide) wall?

Proposed location:

post #30 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin A View Post

I'm still mulling over whether to be content with the 24.5 width or upsize it to a dimension you've listed, and what would I actually gain?

IITP.

Quote:


Proposed location:


With the cab mouth about 38" from the rear wall as you have it you'll have suckout around 90 Hz. That's OK if you cross at 80 Hz or lower, but not if you cross higher. In most cases you get best results with the horn mouth aimed at one wall from about 18" away, which is also in the plans.
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