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Panasonic 2010 Plasma Models - Page 130

post #3871 of 5876
If it were me, I'd pick the G25.
post #3872 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueBlueLS View Post

I'm fighting with my choices after I found out that none of the Sears by me have a TCP54G10 in stock despite them having it "on sale" this week. I can do one of the following since none of the stores by me have anything in stock, so I have to opt for delivery:

TCP50G25 - Cleveland Plasma
TCP54S2 - Cleveland Plasma
TCP58S1 - Best Buy

Well you could hold out for the 54" G25 from Cleveland Plasma... April maybe?
post #3873 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw30 View Post

You are not hearing or seeing things. No matter what the skeptics say, shielded after market power cords can make a difference. I added two after market power cords to my blu-ray player and a Sony SXRD front projector. The image clearly became sharper with better blacks. I will never go back to standard non-shielded cords.

I understand how sheilding can help.
However, I think it is time for a new term: Cord'ers

- Rich
post #3874 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlh1005 View Post

Well you could hold out for the 54" G25 from Cleveland Plasma... April maybe?

If it wasn't $500 more than the 50" version, I'd be all about it. I've been trying to keep this purchase as close to $1,500 as possible.
post #3875 of 5876
When watching a Letterbox Movie OR a Non-HD TV Show, what is the Best color to have the Bars to prevent damage to the Plasma ?
post #3876 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbachmann View Post

When watching a Letterbox Movie OR a Non-HD TV Show, what is the Best color to have the Bars to prevent damage to the Plasma ?

As long as you are not watching nothing but bar'd material, you can leave it black. If you have bars showing a lot of the time, then a light shade of gray is preferable because it works the phosphors and doesn't cause IR. However, if all you are doing is watching the occasional show or movie, then leaving it black is perfectly fine.
post #3877 of 5876
I've been researching the Panasonic VT series since CES 2010, and currently waiting for the 54 inch to hit the shelves. I would would prefer a 58 or 65 inch but I'll wait for more info on the March 10 panasonic/BB de-briefing before I make my decision. My delima is that I've also been keeping close tabs on Toshiba Cell TV, and im reading it's due sometime in September of 2010. After seeing first hand what the cell processor is capable of in the ps3, I'm already considering the posibility of picking up a VT series and posibly returning it for the Toshiba Cell TV. (if it turns out to be a winner)

D-Nice: Do you know anything about the Cell TV?
post #3878 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

As long as you are not watching nothing but bar'd material, you can leave it black. If you have bars showing a lot of the time, then a light shade of gray is preferable because it works the phosphors and doesn't cause IR. However, if all you are doing is watching the occasional show or movie, then leaving it black is perfectly fine.

Thanks.

By "Light Shade of Grey", do you mean a Very Dark Grey, or a Bright Grey Closer to White ?
post #3879 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbachmann View Post

Thanks.

By "Light Shade of Grey", do you mean a Very Dark Grey, or a Bright Grey Closer to White ?

I'd go with a 75% gray which is closer to white than black, but not too close. :-)
post #3880 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I understand how sheilding can help.
However, I think it is time for a new term: Cord'ers

- Rich

Rich, you don't understand. For some people, the laws of physics as we know them don't apply because those people live in an alternate universe.

Larry
post #3881 of 5876
Do we have any pics of what the bezel will look like on the 2010 V series?
post #3882 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Rich, you don't understand. For some people, the laws of physics as we know them don't apply because those people live in an alternate universe.

Larry

Larry, I think you guys are in the alternate universe. Maybe it is not the power cables but the HDMI or composite cables you are using. My romex and $2.00 electrical outlet are not shielded, are yours? I'm not saying not to use a good surge protector/power block, if that is what you are talking about, but I will not be rewiring all of the power cables to each component to shield them.
post #3883 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick46 View Post

Larry, I think you guys are in the alternate universe. Maybe it is not the power cables but the HDMI or composite cables you are using. My romex and $2.00 electrical outlet are not shielded, are yours? I'm not saying not to use a good surge protector/power block, if that is what you are talking about, but I will not be rewiring all of the power cables to each component to shield them.


Digits are digits. If the digital data can be transmitted through a piece of string, the signal can be reproduced without any distortion or change.

Larry
post #3884 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

I'd go with a 75% gray which is closer to white than black, but not too close. :-)

Thanks, again.

Also, I have been told that 55% Contrast for break-in period. Is that correct ? If so, how many hours ?
post #3885 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbachmann View Post

Thanks, again.

Also, I have been told that 55% Contrast for break-in period. Is that correct ? If so, how many hours ?

You prob don't need to go that low. I'd say in the 60s is cool. Normal breakin takes from 200-300 hrs.
post #3886 of 5876
I am almost certainly going to wait one more year before buying a TV....

This rising black issue has turned me off completely....
post #3887 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

You prob don't need to go that low. I'd say in the 60s is cool. Normal breakin takes from 200-300 hrs.

I believe THX is around 60, isn't it ?

If so, it sounds like I'm set from the start.
post #3888 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbachmann View Post

I believe THX is around 60, isn't it ?

If so, it sounds like I'm set from the start.

Contrast should be set to the level in which gamma remains the same throughout the upper end of the gray scale. To do it yourself, you can use a ramp pattern and do it by eye. The best way to set it of course is via a calibration.

To be honest I didn't reduce my contrast below the level I determined from my calibration from day one and never had a problem. It's more about ensuring that no static images stay on screen for long periods of time.
post #3889 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

To be honest I didn't reduce my contrast below the level I determined from my calibration from day one and never had a problem. It's more about ensuring that no static images stay on screen for long periods of time.

Thanks, that's good to know. I appreciate your insight.
post #3890 of 5876
I'm by no means an AV expert, though I was an early adapter of plasma. I traded a Panny 46G15 up to a Samsung 50B860 (for size), loved the PQ of the Samsung, but the heat and buzz really turned me off (both issues actually lead to my discovery of this website). Traded the 860 for the 50G25 and have to say I love the picture quality of this set. Sure the blacks may degrade and I'm waiting as patiently as possible for some insight into how to adjust the pro settings for more accurate color, but the picture even now is very clear and very "natural" for lack of a better word. Samsung was brighter and more colorful out of the box but not as realistic IMO.

Anyway, a very happy 50G25 owner at present until I decide I need a 58".....
post #3891 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by tillots View Post

I'm by no means an AV expert, though I was an early adapter of plasma. I traded a Panny 46G15 up to a Samsung 50B860 (for size), loved the PQ of the Samsung, but the heat and buzz really turned me off (both issues actually lead to my discovery of this website). Traded the 860 for the 50G25 and have to say I love the picture quality of this set. Sure the blacks may degrade and I'm waiting as patiently as possible for some insight into how to adjust the pro settings for more accurate color, but the picture even now is very clear and very "natural" for lack of a better word. Samsung was brighter and more colorful out of the box but not as realistic IMO.

Anyway, a very happy 50G25 owner at present until I decide I need a 58".....

but in my eyes panasonic G25 looks much brighter than samsung B860 and maybe much brighter than most LCDs
post #3892 of 5876
By the way, just got back from a RealD presentation of Alice in Wonderland....

LOVED the movie and I really liked the 3D effects......they also had the new Tron Legacy preview, which was awesome...

I want this experience in my home so I talked to my wife and so we are going to wait until next year to get a 2nd generation 3D set from either Panasonic or Samsung....

I now want to get a 60+ inch model and I am sure the prices will go down next year along with more refined tech...

The fact the Pioneer Kuros will FINALLY be beaten in 2011 is only the icing on the cake
post #3893 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbilko View Post

Same here. I thought I was set on the G25, but the more I check into the LG PK950, the more I am leaning towards the LG. I also need a TV now, so I am hoping the LG will be out in the next few weeks.


same
check out the thread about LG, i just posted some prices here in belgium (europe) and a release date
post #3894 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlh1005 View Post

I think you're looking at it the wrong way. People like me who still bought V10's and/or will buy VT25's despite the revelation of the voltage increases aren't necessarily planning on replacing displays every two years. It's more likely some of us:

1. Feel the effects of the issue are exaggerated.

or

2. Don't feel the rise in MLL is a big enough issue to refrain from buying a Panasonic plasma.

I can most certainly understand why anyone would choose not to purchase a V10 or a VT25 at this point. I understand the flip-side as well.

Definitely it's a highly personal decision. In a bright room and/or viewing only sports/video games/bright/full 16:9 content the rise probably wouldn't be noticeable. Or again, for some the glories of 3D will more than compensate for the MLL rise. So some people will get a VT and use it happily for years and years.

I have nothing in principle against 2010 Panasonic plasma despite the design flaw of the rising idle blacks. I would consider a G20 as a cheaper stopgap TV -- but these models have no watchable 24fps mode. For me that's something I just can't give up (I'm a Blu-ray addict) -- even my existing crummy LCD can do 24fps. So I'm looking at LG because apparently 3:3 (72Hz) is implemented this year.
post #3895 of 5876
I just read that the panny VT25 will be hitting the USA in a week and will be bundled with a blue ray player (DMP-BDT350 Blu-ray player). Not sure if this is accurate information, or what not.

Im not sure of forum rules, so im going to refrain from posting the link (unless otherwise corrected) to the article that was posted today. But here is the quote... "In case you were thinking of cracking open the piggy bank for a 3D plasma HDTV some time soon, there’s some good news: Panasonic’s VT25 systems will be arriving in the US this week and cheaper than the prices they went for in Japan"


"the VT25 display is available in five sizes, ranging from 50- to 65- inches wide. Starting Wednesday, March 10, the VT25 bundle package includes 3D plasma screen, a DMP-BDT350 Blu-ray player and active shutter glasses. Now in Japan, that whole kit was selling for ¥430,000 ($4,766). In the United States, the whole package will sell at about $3,000."

Sorry if this is false or if its old information. I am really into the technology buzz.
post #3896 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by walt73 View Post

So I'm looking at LG because apparently 3:3 (72Hz) is implemented this year.

Do you think 72Hz will be enough to eliminate the visible flicker?
I am so used to LCDs, that when I look at the current plasma screens
(even @60Hz) I notice flickering.
post #3897 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by dumon View Post

Do you think 72Hz will be enough to eliminate the visible flicker?
I am so used to LCDs, that when I look at the current plasma screens
(even @60Hz) I notice flickering.

Regarding your question. I was looking into this since I was curoius as well. I was told 72Hz could still and probably would produce flicker. I was then told for the best 24p playback, 96Hz is the way to go. But this is not for certain. Other, more experienced members will hopefully know the answer.

However, I am not sure on this issue. Just what I was told.
post #3898 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by monstosity12 View Post

I just read that the panny VT25 will be hitting the USA in a week and will be bundled with a blue ray player (DMP-BDT350 Blu-ray player). Not sure if this is accurate information, or what not.

Im not sure of forum rules, so im going to refrain from posting the link (unless otherwise corrected) to the article that was posted today. But here is the quote... "In case you were thinking of cracking open the piggy bank for a 3D plasma HDTV some time soon, there's some good news: Panasonic's VT25 systems will be arriving in the US this week and cheaper than the prices they went for in Japan"


In the United States, the whole package will sell at about $3,000."

Sorry if this is false or if its old information. I am really into the technology buzz.

Thanks, did the notice say just hitting the USA in general or did it indicate a specific release such as BB?
post #3899 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy View Post

Thanks, did the notice say just hitting the USA in general or did it indicate a specific release such as BB?

Hi Jimmy -

It just said the USA in general. Sorry. I would post the link, but im not sure on AVS forums rules, nor do I know if the website is saying reliable information.
post #3900 of 5876
Quote:
Originally Posted by monstosity12 View Post

Regarding your question. I was looking into this since I was curoius as well. I was told 72Hz could still and probably would produce flicker. I was then told for the best 24p playback, 96Hz is the way to go. But this is not for certain. Other, more experienced members will hopefully know the answer.

However, I am not sure on this issue. Just what I was told.

Pioneer Kuro featured the 24P 3:3 pulldown, so you might want to inquire from Kuro owners, if they experienced any flicker at 72Hz.


http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...&V_PRO-111.pdf
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