Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread

i sure love my d15se i got 6 months ago

love it so much.. soon ill be upgrading my current 2x front subs to 2x f15se

d15se will stay behind the sofa (shakin+bakin)

the 3x rythmik subs will be accompanied by 5x yamaha msr250 as mains

signals: sound card: modded ht omega halo xt/lt1028 opamps

Brian,
any plans for an 18"? Still loving my 15 w/PEQ (the first PEQ you sold!)

id be more interested in rythmik mains/towers for clean/tight/accurate full range

sealed/servo/active mains lol how about it brian ??

I can't wait to get a F12!

Seriously considering importing F12G.

Even moreso now with newly released 370PEQ amplifiers.

Does anyone have first-hand photos of the F15SE yet? I'd really like to see one with a size reference item like a DVD case sitting next to it.

Jeremy...the SE is just a piano gloss version of the F15. I can put a CD case up against my F15 and take a picture if you would like.

Just ordered a rythmik F15 from ascend audio yesterday, and they shipped it today. Thats fast shipping.

Three more days to awesome bass.

Well, I did have a project like that. The idea is to extend the servo operation to midrange driver while keeping the tweeter nonservo. I have done everything I could to reduce the voice coil inductance, including an alumimun phase plug which may turn out to be a bad idea. Just demonstrated the system at Danny's house (GR Research) before holiday. Since the midrange can also be used as nonservo, I have design a passive xover for the midrange drivers so that they have the same response as in servo mode. This makes the comparison of servo vs nonservo easier. To make the long story short, I do think the improvement on dynamics such as drums is very audible. However, there are some resonances above 500hz that keeps them from being perfectly flat and Danny can easily point them out even before we proceeded to measurement. It is a type of parasitic resonances that servo cannot correct. Because those resonances showed up only after I put them in enclosures, I do suspect it arises from enclosure's air spring and the air gap between phase plug and voice coil. In short, the box is technically not sealed at all. I will try out different enclosure type such as TL or vented box so those 5-1/4 midrange driver can play into 50hz/40hz without a sub. While it may not play very low, it does make the assessment of merits easier.

First, thanks for starting this thread. I will try to answer questions in a timely manner. If not, a reminder to my email will help.

All of our amps can be configured as servo. I am waiting for a new 15" driver that goes with H600 amp. H500 will be used for an upcoming vented sub. That may explain why they appear to be only for nonservo.

As for question about 18" driver, I have to say I don't have plan for that. But I do plan to offer dual 15" configuration. Two of them will be driven by an H600 amp. The only downside is enclosure size.

Hey Brian,

I've been really enjoying my F12.

Have you ever thought of going the other size direction and building a F10 for those with sub size constraints?

^ personally im not getting 2x more 15" rythmik subs for higher spl.. 1x d15se is more than enough.. im getting 2x more for extra potent rumble/tremor/eathquake @ low spl



awesome!!

but even with those resonances it probably sounds better than a lot of the loudspeakers out there

how about a vaccum sealed enclosure ?? without imploding lol

how about full range servo driver instead ?? bigger enclosure probably ?

i dont care/mind how big the enclosure needs to get to minimize those parasitic resonances.. make it as big you have to

is this the plan for 2010/release loudspeakers sometime this year ? cause i could wait on the mains upgrade..

thanks brian!

How many of you have played with the bass extension controls (amp tuning)? Or is everybody just stuck on 14Hz and Hi damping?

For my set up music sounds best there, however I find a bit more bass "kick" for movies with the damping on Low (however it feels just a little too flabby with music). What's been your experiences?
Because of the location of my subs, it would have been nice to have it on remote control though. Hey Brian, ever consider doing this?

Dual 15s! Come to papa!

I would really be interested in a something small. Maybe an f10? Is there any future plans for that?

10" is not very effective as a subwoofer playing signals below 100hz. If one wants a smaller enclosure and can accept slightly lower SPL output, I think a solution with a GR SW12-4 driver in a 1cu ft net volume enclosure, driven by a smaller 300WRMS amp may just work. I have to build one and hear it though. I used to have DS12CV drivers that can be used the same way. However, the demand was not as high and after me and Danny came out with SW12-4, there is no point of having two drivers competing in the same space. So for now, for compact enclosure, I would recommend GR SW12-4 drivers.

The next reasonable size down for me is actually 8" with full servo control below 200hz. There are some good transducers out there (coaxial, ribbon, to name a few) that can benefit from this type of extended bass units.

Are you saying that a well designed 8" would be a better than a 10"

On the F15 with the A300 amp, is it still a Direct Servo amp? Also, does the A300 say Direct Servo on the amp plate?

I just got an email from Brian. It is and it does.

Thank you Brian.

Anyone own an F12 or F15 with the A300 amp ? If so, what are your impressions.

Thanks

That is not what I meant. What I meant was if smaller enclosure is desirable, one may use a smaller enclosure with 12" driver and in terms of output, it would be similar to a well designed 10" in the same enclosure size. 10" driver has a smaller cone area and therefore can move the cone easier (air spring force is smaller). Since output is a product of cone area and excursion, the output comes out to be similar between 10" and 12". However, if the goal is to extend the upper end extension limit, 10" driver is only an incremental improvement over 12" and an 8" driver is more promising. Anyway, I understand the need for 10" drivers. I would

I am also looking for a good caned transducer solution for frequencies above 200hz. Let me know if anyone finds one. The three 8" drivers can be easily put into a 28" stand height enclosures and crossover at 200hz.

Several customers asked. I have thought about that. It would be nice if we can have a display in the front plus a remote control. But I need help on that. Anyone good at writing PIC microcode shoots me an email.

For me at least, the goal is best possible under 100Hz musical bass in the smallest possible enclosure; so if I understand than a 10" driver in a 12" cube (like the new Emotiva Ultra10) would likely be better than an 8" driver in the same size box. Would adding a 8" passive radiator (like the Mosscade Titan 5.5) make a big difference, or a second 8" driver (like the Aperion Bravus 8D)?

It is this truly small but musical sub area that I wondered if you had ever considered entering.

I understand that there is only so much time and energy, so a dual-15 would be a more natural extension of your products; just wondering (and continuing to enjoy my F12 in my other space)...

I have the F12G (the GR research paper cone driver) with the A300 amp. My receiver has Audyssey MultEQ and I didn't have any major peaks or valleys that would require a secondary EQ, so I passed on the A370. The A300 has been great for me. I am thrilled with it. I purchased the configuration with the paper cone driver because I needed a slightly higher crossover point (I have smaller Energy mains). It blends seamlessly with no localization. Bass is very tight as you might expect and goes plenty low. I made the purchase based more on my musical preferences, but trust me it has plenty of SPL ability for home theater in my room (about 3500 cubic feet). Lots of impact but with superior sound quality. It truly is a wonderfully musical subwoofer. If you have a capable receiver and don't need the PEQ, I would opt for the A300 and save the money. I couldn't be happier with mine.

brian

im looking/thinking of diff setups.. if i would start from 0/scratch id just go with 2x f15se in front left/right corners and it would be easier to stack 2x more f15se down the road but since i got d15se (18" by 18") how about stacking f12se (15-3/4" x 17") on top of d15se ? and that would be 2x d15se front left/right corners + f12se stacked on top of each d15se

would you recommend this combo/setup ?

i would rather stack f15se on top of d15se if measurements would fit