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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 365

post #10921 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregcss View Post

Hi, I'm looking for help configuring my F15HP because it's not really outputting much at all.

Based on recommended settings here is my current sub configuration:

Single RCA from Anthem MRX receiver sub preout to F15HP Line In (left)
Power set to auto
PEQ is Off
Delay Phase 0
Crossover 120
Volume 50%
Line in Low Pass AVR/12
Rumble Filter off
Extension filter 14/Hi for movies, 14/Low for music

I first turned off all room EQ on my AVR and crossed my speakers at 80hz, sub is set at 0db on the AVR. I used Rythmiks tool to set distance at 9ft. The sub is working, but it's not very noticeable meaning the volume is very low.

Next I changed the extension filter to 14/Med as recommended when running room correction measurements and ran ARC on my AVR for room correction. ARC crossed my speakers at 60hz and set sub to -4 db. Room correction is on for all sources and I tested with the sub EQ at Auto and Flat. The sub seems a bit quieter now, almost no volume. The sub power light is green so I know it's turned on. I also moved the input from Line In to LFE and that made no difference - although ARC was not re-run with this change.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe when calibrating the sub you should set the sub to 14hz/high and then once complete set back to 14hz/low for movie content. This will acheive more full bodied bass.
post #10922 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe when calibrating the sub you should set the sub to 14hz/high and then once complete set back to 14hz/low for movie content. This will acheive more full bodied bass.

Correct. Or 14/mid, depending upon your preferences.
post #10923 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe when calibrating the sub you should set the sub to 14hz/high and then once complete set back to 14hz/low for movie content. This will acheive more full bodied bass.

Brian usually recommends running room correction with extension filter set at 14Hz / High for his vented subs and 14Hz / Mid for sealed subs, so gregcss is doing this correctly.
post #10924 of 15157
For Audyssey I believe Brian recommends LOW damping first and MID as an alternative, but feels that there's nothing wrong if you prefer to do it differently.
post #10925 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by holt7153 View Post

For Audyssey I believe Brian recommends LOW damping first and MID as an alternative, but feels that there's nothing wrong if you prefer to do it differently.

You know, the more I think about it the more I believe you're right. I think Brian did actually recommend 14/low, so if you want more definition you can switch to mid or hi.
post #10926 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by holt7153 View Post

For Audyssey I believe Brian recommends LOW damping first and MID as an alternative, but feels that there's nothing wrong if you prefer to do it differently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

You know, the more I think about it the more I believe you're right. I think Brian did actually recommend 14/low, so if you want more definition you can switch to mid or hi.

How about a quote from the man himself then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I'd like to make this clear so that customers don't make mistakes



For sealed subs, turn off rumble filter and set the extension to 14hz/ mid damping before running roomEQ such as Audyssey.


For vented subs with single tuning, set the extension filter to 14hz, low damping before running roomEQ.


For vented subs with dual tuning, plug one port and set the rumble filter to OFF/1, and 14hz low damping before running room EQ.


After the roomEQ is done, you can then play with extension filter and rumble filter setting.


The precaution is to avoid roomEQ accidentally boost frequency below 20hz which can defeat the purpose of having those controls on our amps.This maybe counterintuitive but it is important (because one may think he should use the settings that he wants to use when doing roomEQ). If roomEQ has its way in correcting frequency response, it will undo all the rumble filter, and extension filter setting.
post #10927 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kisakuku View Post


How about a quote from the man himself then.

Here's another quote from Brian:

The setting for auto calibration is just temporary. Let us assume the
software is capable of achieving same consistent calibrated response if
the pre-calibration curves are well behaved. BTW, switch damping control
does not introduce new peak or null, so it is reasonable to assume
Audyssey will come back with very similar calibrated curves. If one set
the extension to 28hz, the software may even boost the band between 20hz
and 30hz. So the idea to present the low damping curve to calibration
program.
And then check the sound. If you think it is too boomy, then
you can switch the damping back to high. If one had used high damping
for calibration, then there is no "ultra" high damping setting to fall
back to. If the sound is good, there is no need to make further damping
adjustment.

I encourage everyone to adapt the idea. Alternatively, one can also use
14hz/med damping for sealed subs and afterwards, one can use low damping
to make the bass even more "full body" (or boomy)by switching back low
damping, or more articulate by switching back to high damping. Of
course, there is nothing wrong using 14hz/high damping for calibration
if the result is right on what you expect. My rationale here is the
software should also give you very similar calibrated curve if the
damping were set to med damping or low damping. For vented subs, my
recommendation is to use 14hz/low damping as the vented subs already
sound more full body than sealed subs.
post #10928 of 15157
So looks like my dampening is correct. What else could be causing such low (volume) output? confused.gif
post #10929 of 15157
Have you used a SPL meter to see what the actual readings are? Have you tested it with movies/music that has lots of low bass content? I don't know what you had used before, but some people are used to the bloated mid bass from cheap subs and take a while to get used to a flatter, more even response. A lot of people also prefer a "house curve" and like to run their subs a few db hot over what the calibration set it to. (some people as much as 10db). It is also possible your seating position is in a null in the frequencies you expect to hear...if that is the case only experimenting with placement of the sub or seating position will help.
post #10930 of 15157
Gregcss, why are you using LINE IN instead of LFE IN? If you are going to use LINE IN then get a RCA "Y" Splitter and use both LINE IN inputs (L + R) to increase the gain by +6dB. But if you have room correction system then is better if you use LFE IN. Also check that your main speakers are set to Small and the crossover in your mains is set at 80Hz.
post #10931 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post

Gregcss, why are you using LINE IN instead of LFE IN? If you are going to use LINE IN then get a RCA "Y" Splitter and use both LINE IN inputs (L + R) to increase the gain by +6dB. But if you have room correction system then is better if you use LFE IN. Also check that your main speakers are set to Small and the crossover in your mains is set at 80Hz.

Hi, I'm using Line In because the quick guide that came with the sub says "One should use line level inputs whenever possible". I interpreted this to Line In. I'll re-measure using LFE and let you know how it turns out. Thank you.
post #10932 of 15157
Hi Brian and Enrico

Just checking if you're aware of this apparent issue: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1493975/ive-narrowed-my-choices-down-to-ascend-sierra-towers-or-focal-836w/30#post_23825212

My apologies in advance if this has already been covered.

Cheers
post #10933 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregcss View Post

Hi, I'm using Line In because the quick guide that came with the sub says "One should use line level inputs whenever possible". I interpreted this to Line In. I'll re-measure using LFE and let you know how it turns out. Thank you.

I hooked up to LFE and re-ran ARC (room correction). ARC crossed my speakers at 60hz. I manually changed to 80. The bass was a bit more involved than before, but no where near what i'd expect from this sub.
post #10934 of 15157
Greg, I suppose the best way to know if everything is working properly is to measure at your listening position and find out what your frequency response looks like. If you have a measuring system, that would be the best way. If not, take a look at the charts ARC presents and perhaps post them.

There is the idea of reference vs preference. Assuming ARC is doing its job right, you should have a bass response that more or less fits in with what the makers of ARC have determined through a ton of research it should be. That doesn't mean you have to like it that way. As mentioned before, some like to run the subs hot by a few to several dB. Others like a curve that ramps up as frequency decreases (ARC does a little bit of this with what it calls room gain). And others seem to like the thump in the chest that comes from running the subs a few dB hot in the 40-60 Hz range or so. Fortunately the Rythmik has a PEQ that you can use which would probably allow you to tailor the sound to your liking after ARC has done its thing.
post #10935 of 15157
Getting a loud thud, when I turn on my receiver (Vintage), the sub is on AUTO. Is it safe to put the Rythmik permanently on ON, but plug the subwoofer into a power strip and use the on/off switch to turn the sub On or OFF ?
post #10936 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkeeler10 View Post

take a look at the charts ARC presents and perhaps post them.

Here is the chart. Red is measured, dotted black it optimal, green is with room correction applied.

post #10937 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

Getting a loud thud, when I turn on my receiver (Vintage), the sub is on AUTO. Is it safe to put the Rythmik permanently on ON, but plug the subwoofer into a power strip and use the on/off switch to turn the sub On or OFF ?

Yes
post #10938 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

Getting a loud thud, when I turn on my receiver (Vintage), the sub is on AUTO. Is it safe to put the Rythmik permanently on ON, but plug the subwoofer into a power strip and use the on/off switch to turn the sub On or OFF ?
Do note that with the selector at ON position, the limiter is OFF.
post #10939 of 15157
Hello everyone.

I have dual FV15HPs subwoofer setup. Both on the front left and front right corners. Despite dual subs, I have serious null issue at 30Hz. 1/4 wavelength of 30Hz is about 9.5 feet.
My room dimension is about 15' (W) x 27' (L) x 9.5' (H).
I guess the room height is the issue here. What can I do to combat this issue? Placing my subs off the ground? Will stacking one sub on top of another help? I hope the Rythmik cabinet is strong enough to withstand that weight.

Please help. Thanks in advance.
post #10940 of 15157
nothing beats the good old sub crawl. Place one of the units where you sit, then walk around the room until you find the place the bass sounds the best. That is where you want to put the sub that is in your seat.
post #10941 of 15157
Got a quick question related to subwoofer distance.

I have read that there are recommended minimum distances one should sit from loudspeakers in order to allow the sound fields to add up correctly (something like 5ft). I am curious, is there some other general rule of thumb distance that applies to the LF range created by subwoofers? Does anyone here have their sub within 3ft or so of the primary listening position?

Thanks!
post #10942 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

I have read that there are recommended minimum distances one should sit from loudspeakers in order to allow the sound fields to add up correctly
Correct, to account for the dispersion patterns of the separate drivers, which can be fairly narrow.
Quote:
I am curious, is there some other general rule of thumb distance that applies to the LF range created by subwoofers?
No, because the dispersion angle of a subwoofer is 360 degrees.
Quote:
Does anyone here have their sub within 3ft or so of the primary listening position?
I do.
post #10943 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Does anyone here have their sub within 3ft or so of the primary listening position?

Thanks!

I do. I keep one three feet behind the MLPs and one about ten feet away. It's rad biggrin.gif
post #10944 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

I guess the room height is the issue here.
Did you try moving your measuring mic up and down to see if the null disappeared from the measurements?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

What can I do to combat this issue?
Try placing a sub in the null.
post #10945 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Correct, to account for the dispersion patterns of the separate drivers, which can be fairly narrow.
No, because the dispersion angle of a subwoofer is 360 degrees.
I do.

Great - thanks for the responses all!
post #10946 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

Hello everyone.

I have dual FV15HPs subwoofer setup. Both on the front left and front right corners. Despite dual subs, I have serious null issue at 30Hz. 1/4 wavelength of 30Hz is about 9.5 feet.
My room dimension is about 15' (W) x 27' (L) x 9.5' (H).
I guess the room height is the issue here. What can I do to combat this issue? Placing my subs off the ground? Will stacking one sub on top of another help? I hope the Rythmik cabinet is strong enough to withstand that weight.

Please help. Thanks in advance.

+1 to all the other responses. If you are sitting in a null, it would be best to move the LP out of the null. If not that, then you can try moving the sub to help compensate the null. Bass nulls due to room modes can be tough, and multiple subs (in different places) to counteract the null is a typical solution. I was able to move my LP a little but that may not be an option, and of course height is a little trickier to just move away from. Using bass traps is another possibility, but it would take a lot of them to correct a 30 Hz null.
post #10947 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Got a quick question related to subwoofer distance.

I have read that there are recommended minimum distances one should sit from loudspeakers in order to allow the sound fields to add up correctly (something like 5ft). I am curious, is there some other general rule of thumb distance that applies to the LF range created by subwoofers? Does anyone here have their sub within 3ft or so of the primary listening position?

Thanks!

I do. I have an F12SE on each side of my couch. Speakers are 7.5 ft from listening position.

post #10948 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

Hello everyone.

I have dual FV15HPs subwoofer setup. Both on the front left and front right corners. Despite dual subs, I have serious null issue at 30Hz. 1/4 wavelength of 30Hz is about 9.5 feet.
My room dimension is about 15' (W) x 27' (L) x 9.5' (H).
I guess the room height is the issue here. What can I do to combat this issue? Placing my subs off the ground? Will stacking one sub on top of another help? I hope the Rythmik cabinet is strong enough to withstand that weight.

Please help. Thanks in advance.

Do you have a rug or carpet in your listening area?
post #10949 of 15157
I bumped up the sub level by 2db from my avr and tested with Dark Knight. I am getting good bass. Maybe the movies I tested last were not good choices.
post #10950 of 15157
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregcss View Post

Here is the chart. Red is measured, dotted black it optimal, green is with room correction applied.


Have you tried also setting the subwoofer distance manually and see if that alleviates the problem (like firm up the mid bass)? You can try add or subtract 2 ft at a time. Your adjustment window should be +/- half wavelength. A lot of times, what we perceive as lack of bass is caused by incorrect phase alignment at crossover point. Making the crossover point lower makes the dispersion pattern at the crossover point wider and less prone to phase issue. Again, a distance difference of half wavelength is same as phase inversion. At 80hz, half wavelength is 6.5ft, and at 40hz, it is 13 ft.
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