or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 375

post #11221 of 15162
Sure sound quality is a major selling point for your product, but that does not mean other companies have bad sound quality or use inferior products. If you offered a 5yr warranty I gurantee you would sell more subs...not saying you need the increase in business but it would no doubt make a difference. Also it does not matter if most amps fail within a 2yr period, 5yrs is more for peace of mind knowing your high end product is covered and the company stands behind the products they sell. Electronics fail, warranties offer piece of mind to the customer especially when ordering over the internet.
post #11222 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post

Sure sound quality is a major selling point for your product, but that does not mean other companies have bad sound quality or use inferior products. If you offered a 5yr warranty I gurantee you would sell more subs...not saying you need the increase in business but it would no doubt make a difference. Also it does not matter if most amps fail within a 2yr period, 5yrs is more for peace of mind knowing your high end product is covered and the company stands behind the products they sell. Electronics fail, warranties offer piece of mind to the customer especially when ordering over the internet.

what are we debating here? Warranty has nothing to do with circuit topology. Circuit topology is the one determines the sound quality. Why do you constantly mixing things up? I brought in circuit topology and you brought in warranty. One of us is getting old.
post #11223 of 15162
Quote:
Electronics fail, warranties offer piece of mind to the customer especially when ordering over the internet.

+1 ..... Especially when somebody is ordering flagship product from over 8000 miles away from texas
post #11224 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

what are we debating here? Warranty has nothing to do with circuit topology. Circuit topology is the one determines the sound quality. Why do you constantly mixing things up? I brought in circuit topology and you brought in warranty. One of us is getting old.

I believe you are getting defensive...FYI I am.not debating anything. it started with you claiming the X company using 1watt idle to not be as reliable and you "rejected" that option. I stated they must be fairly reliable if that company offers a 5yr warranty. Then I asked why not offer a 5yr warranty and you went on a defensive rant. I am not bashing your company. All I am asking is why not offer a 5yr electronics warranty with your products for piece of mind for the customer? If you can claim that your circuit topology is more reliable then your competitions, then why not offer the warranty to back up those claims? Even if its at an extra cost it would still be nice. Just offering a opinion, not telling you how to run your business. Good Evening.
post #11225 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcohen View Post

The main problem I see is setting your towers to full range. Even if they are large, I have had better luck setting them to small/high pass. This avoids cancellation, let's you position the sub for the best bass, and the sub will give cleaner output at those frequencies than any speaker.
Also, if that preamp doesn't feature delay, you will need to tune the phase knob on the sub. If the preamp won't auto-tune the delay-distance, it would be good to use some sort of real-time measurement software to tune the delay/phase and crossover settings to get a flat crossover region. You could also tune it all by ear, if you prefer.
It's probably good to start with the rumble filter on, and maybe turn it off later if you'd rather have a bit more low frequency extension at the expense of power.

Thanks rcohen. I went ahead and switched my main speakers to high pass. What frequency do you suggest? I have them set at 80Hz at the moment as a starting point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

BTW, we still have the basstuner2.html Java script to help you set up the phase adjustment and crossover control. It is a useful tool when you don't have AUTO EQ in your system. Even if you have an AUTO EQ, it is still a good cross-check tool to do a sanity check.

Where exactly can I find this? Is it in the Rythmik website?
post #11226 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Still lll View Post

Thanks rcohen. I went ahead and switched my main speakers to high pass. What frequency do you suggest? I have them set at 80Hz at the moment as a starting point.
80hz has usually worked best for me for towers, but the best thing to do is experiment and measure/listen.
50hz-150hz are reasonable values.
For bookshelf speakers, it's often best to go a bit higher than 80z.
It depends on the speakers, sub, and room.
The Rhythmik subs are capable of going higher if called upon, although above 80hz, sound begins to become directional, so you start to lose the illusion that the bass is coming from your mains. With small speakers that can't produce 90hz, though, it's better to get it from the sub than not at all.
Edited by rcohen - 10/31/13 at 4:56am
post #11227 of 15162
I just ordered a LV12R this morning! Why did I choose Rythmik Audio? It gets great reviews, fits my budget, but most of all, because of Brian and Enrico. I spoke with Enrico a couple of days ago, asked him many questions and they were all answered with pleasure and patience. With such a great product and great customer service, how can I go wrong? Now the longest 7 days of my life begin!
Edited by jrguzmanr - 10/31/13 at 7:17am
post #11228 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcohen View Post

80hz has usually worked best for me for towers, but the best thing to do is experiment and measure/listen.
50hz-150hz are reasonable values.
For bookshelf speakers, it's often best to go a bit higher than 80z.
It depends on the speakers, sub, and room.
The Rhythmik subs are capable of going higher if called upon, although above 80hz, sound begins to become directional, so you start to lose the illusion that the bass is coming from your mains. With small speakers that can't produce 90hz, though, it's better to get it from the sub than not at all.

Something I just learned recently is that the main speaker's cross-over frequency should be where it's low-frequency output is 6dB down from it's pre-roll off output. If that makes any sense! Another way to say it is: The frequency at which a loudspeaker's low-end roll-off is 6dB down, is the frequency at which you should set the cross-over. Then use the same frequency for the sub(s).
post #11229 of 15162
Man Rythmik's website is bad. So I see that the FV12 is discontinued and the LV12R is the replacement, but there is not LV12R under the products?
post #11230 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warder45 View Post

Man Rythmik's website is bad. So I see that the FV12 is discontinued and the LV12R is the replacement, but there is not LV12R under the products?

 

Hover your mouse arrow over "subwoofers". It's the first one listed.

 

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products.html

post #11231 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Note my comment regarding use of the phase control was in the context of the poster contemplating two subs with a single sub output from his AVR. In that case you can use the line input and phase control to correctly set the delay for the second sub (or first depending upon placement) and let the AVR do it's thing in determining distance to the other sub. Brian and others have detailed that procedure in this thread.

Any chance of getting a pointer to a post explaining this procedure? I tried thread search without success. Thanks!
post #11232 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Still lll View Post

Thanks rcohen. I went ahead and switched my main speakers to high pass. What frequency do you suggest? I have them set at 80Hz at the moment as a starting point.
Where exactly can I find this? Is it in the Rythmik website?

It is www.rythmikaudio.com/subtuner2.html
post #11233 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post

No prob I was just funin with ya

Everybody deserves to have their feet tickled every once in a while. biggrin.gif

(I took the comment in good fun)
post #11234 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

Hover your mouse arrow over "subwoofers". It's the first one listed.

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products.html

Thanks, I kept ending up on this page: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products1.html
post #11235 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warder45 View Post

Man Rythmik's website is bad. So I see that the FV12 is discontinued and the LV12R is the replacement, but there is not LV12R under the products?

The Rythmik website is by far the best of ANY subwoofer company's. Deep design details, lots of technical information, all kinds of tutorials, many tips on how to adjust and use the Rythmik subs. No other subwoofer company shares as much of it's knowledge, nor has as much knowledge TO share, as Brian.
post #11236 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warder45 View Post

Thanks, I kept ending up on this page: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products1.html

Just click on the FV. LV info will come up.
post #11237 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

Hover your mouse arrow over "subwoofers". It's the first one listed.

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products.html

No, he's right Stanley. The FV is still pictured. But when you click on FV, LV info comes up.
post #11238 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post


No, he's right Stanley. The FV is still pictured. But when you click on FV, LV info comes up.


Weird. It took me here: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/LV12R.html

post #11239 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

The Rythmik website is by far the best of ANY subwoofer company's. Deep design details, lots of technical information, all kinds of tutorials, many tips on how to adjust and use the Rythmik subs. No other subwoofer company shares as much of it's knowledge, nor has as much knowledge TO share, as Brian.

Yep provides pretty much everything but cea-2010 data...which would be a nice being able to see the differences between all the Rythmik products aside from the +/-0-9db @ 20hz scale.
post #11240 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

Something I just learned recently is that the main speaker's cross-over frequency should be where it's low-frequency output is 6dB down from it's pre-roll off output. If that makes any sense! Another way to say it is: The frequency at which a loudspeaker's low-end roll-off is 6dB down, is the frequency at which you should set the cross-over. Then use the same frequency for the sub(s).
If I'm reading this right, I think you've misunderstood something. If you cross the sub over where the speaker is 6db down the sub will also begin to roll off early...this will result in a "hole" in the frequency response. Even using the -3db can result in a small gap, especially when phase is not perfect. That is why usually it is recommended to cross over a full octave over the -3db point when possible and still avoid localization. The typical bookshelf will usually start to roll off somewhere between 50 - 70, and that is why 80hz usually works well for the most common setups. Even if you have towers that can extend much lower, there are many benefits of using the 80hz crossover.
post #11241 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warder45 View Post

Thanks, I kept ending up on this page: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products1.html

Fixed and please reload.
post #11242 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

Fixed and please reload.

I'm getting a 404 error when I click on the LV12R link. Anyone else? And yes, I did flush my browser cache... wink.gif
post #11243 of 15162
I got to it without any hiccups.
post #11244 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

I'm getting a 404 error when I click on the LV12R link. Anyone else? And yes, I did flush my browser cache... wink.gif

The posted link takes me to the products page but when I click on the FV12 link, I get a 404 error message.

"Error 404 - Not Found"

When I hover over the "Subwoofer" heading at the top of the page, and click on the LV12R link in the foldout menu, I'm then directed to LV12R page.

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 10/31/13 at 11:17am
post #11245 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

Something I just learned recently is that the main speaker's cross-over frequency should be where it's low-frequency output is 6dB down from it's pre-roll off output. If that makes any sense! Another way to say it is: The frequency at which a loudspeaker's low-end roll-off is 6dB down, is the frequency at which you should set the cross-over. Then use the same frequency for the sub(s).

That depends on the crossover slopes in the AVR and the speaker. There are a couple of things going on in your scenario:

1. You want the crossovers to be set so there is no peak or valley in the frequency response through the crossover region. Some crossover designs (e.g. Linkwitz-Riley) do that automatically, or try to, but of course there's always some outlier to muck things up. If you are not using an active crossover, or using different HPF and LPF slopes, life can get complicated.

2. Where the speaker is 6 dB down is probably well below where you should crossover. Speaker manufacturers do not always spec the -6 dB point (and sometimes not even the -3 dB point), and rolloff is generally unknown to the user, so it takes additional knowledge, measurements, and/or trial and error to get a smooth FR. The other main reason I would say to use a high crossover point is because speakers rarely perform well at frequency extremes. Distortion rises, and particularly for low frequencies you give up a lot of dynamic range/headroom by crossing over low since signals down there tend to be very large. My rule of thumb has been from 1/2 to 1 octave (factor of about 1.5 - 2) above the -3 dB speaker roll-off is a reasonable place to start.
post #11246 of 15162
In my case, after Audessey set up, it sets my main (Klipsch KLF10) full band, center (Klipsch KLF-C7) at 60hz. I then change to small 60 for my main and center at 80hz.
post #11247 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

I'm getting a 404 error when I click on the LV12R link. Anyone else? And yes, I did flush my browser cache... wink.gif

The posted link takes me to the products page but when I click on the FV12 link, I get a 404 error message.

"Error 404 - Not Found"

When I hover over the "Subwoofer" heading at the top of the page, and click on the LV12R link in the foldout menu, I'm then directed to LV12R page.

-

The link on the page by the picture goes to the wrong place, FV12 page. This takes you (or me, anyway) to the LV12R page: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/LV12R.html
post #11248 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

Fixed and please reload.

While you're fixing things you can also touch up these issues (no response to my email on the F15 links):

  • The "Performance and Specs" links on the bottom of the F15HP and F25 features pages points to the F15 Performance and Specs page.
  • The "Options & Features" link on the LV12R page point to the FV12 page which gives a 404.

Edited by User5910 - 11/1/13 at 10:26am
post #11249 of 15162

right,The three 8" drivers can be easily put into a 28" stand height enclosures and crossover at 200hz. thanks

8.gif

post #11250 of 15162
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophile2k View Post

If I'm reading this right, I think you've misunderstood something. If you cross the sub over where the speaker is 6db down the sub will also begin to roll off early...this will result in a "hole" in the frequency response. Even using the -3db can result in a small gap, especially when phase is not perfect. That is why usually it is recommended to cross over a full octave over the -3db point when possible and still avoid localization. The typical bookshelf will usually start to roll off somewhere between 50 - 70, and that is why 80hz usually works well for the most common setups. Even if you have towers that can extend much lower, there are many benefits of using the 80hz crossover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

That depends on the crossover slopes in the AVR and the speaker. There are a couple of things going on in your scenario:

1. You want the crossovers to be set so there is no peak or valley in the frequency response through the crossover region. Some crossover designs (e.g. Linkwitz-Riley) do that automatically, or try to, but of course there's always some outlier to muck things up. If you are not using an active crossover, or using different HPF and LPF slopes, life can get complicated.

2. Where the speaker is 6 dB down is probably well below where you should crossover. Speaker manufacturers do not always spec the -6 dB point (and sometimes not even the -3 dB point), and rolloff is generally unknown to the user, so it takes additional knowledge, measurements, and/or trial and error to get a smooth FR. The other main reason I would say to use a high crossover point is because speakers rarely perform well at frequency extremes. Distortion rises, and particularly for low frequencies you give up a lot of dynamic range/headroom by crossing over low since signals down there tend to be very large. My rule of thumb has been from 1/2 to 1 octave (factor of about 1.5 - 2) above the -3 dB speaker roll-off is a reasonable place to start.

Right, both of you have stated what I understood to be the way to cross-over. The 6 dB down I got recently from Danny Richie, Brian's collaborator at GR Research. It was in regards to the Rythmik and GR subs with one of Danny's Open Baffle speakers. Maybe he was talking about that specific pairing, not in general. I do know that Danny prefers and recommends lower cross-over frequencies.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread