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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 15

post #421 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

cschang,

I think you meant the Ultra-13. The Velodyne was more musical and the Ultra 13 sounds more exuberant in explosions and those really low thuds/grunts.

Probably not as descriptive as I would like but maybe you get the idea.

JimP,

I know your concern. In the past two years we offer 30 days home trial for our finished subwoofers -- written on the specification page of each product, I assume everyone sees that. All they have to do is pay for shipping. We have a total of 5 (EDIT: corrected) returns. Two of them were just size (WAF) issue. One of them was the customer hopping from one sub to another and couldn't find any sub that would match his fronts. For the forth one, the customer constant drove our F12 to overload (this customer cannot put his sub at the corner, corner load improves sub's efficiency). For the last one, the customer stated he preferred WMF-15. That was a surprise. Of course, the majority of our customers know what they are looking for and they found it with our subs. So knowing what you really want is the key. Vented sub tends to give you that "I (the sub) am here" type of presence. Some customer's mentality is I pay for it, I need to hear it is there. Otherwise, it is not worth the money. But we prefer them to blend so well that you don't hear their presence. The feedback that I was really hoping to get is that our sub let the listeners hear the true characteristics of bass instruments, instead of every one of them sound similar. Or the subwoofer disappears and we now hear the presence of the instruments more and enjoy the music more. Same thing goes to movie watching. I want the customers to enjoy the movies, instead of constantly looking for the next special effect to demonstrate he/she gets his/her money worth. BTW, we are addressing all these customers concern by adding limiter, coming out with E15 and upcoming vented servo subs. If one prefers to hear the subwoofer's presence, on our sealed subs, we have low damping setting. That will give you quite a bit of ringing and you can for sure hear its presence.

If the sound quality matches what you are looking for, then the output is really just a compromise between what much you want to pay and what size of enclosure you can accept.
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post #422 of 9634
Thanks for posting. The 30 day home trial period definately eliminates a major concern.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

JimP,

I know your concern. In the past two years we offer 30 days home trial for our subwoofers. All they have to do is pay for shipping. We have a total of 4 returns. Two of them were just size (WAF) issue. One of them was the customer hopping from one sub to another and couldn't find any sub that would match his fronts. For the last one, the customer stated he preferred WMF-15. That was a surprise. Of course, the majority of our customers know what they are looking for and they found it with our subs. So knowing what you really want is the key. Vented sub tends to give you that "I (the sub) am here" type of presence. Some customer's mentality is I pay for it, I need to hear it is there. Otherwise, it is not worth the money. But we prefer them to blend so well that you don't hear their presence. The feedback that I was really hoping to get is that our sub let the listeners hear the true characteristics of bass instruments, instead of every one of them sound similar. Or the subwoofer disappears and we now hear the presence of the instruments more and enjoy the music more. BTW, we are addressing all these customers concern and come out with E15 and upcoming vented servo subs. If one prefers to hear the subwoofer's presence, on our sealed subs, we have low damping setting. That will give you quite a bit of ringing and you can for sure hear its presence.

If the sound quality matches what you are looking for, then the output is really just a compromise between what much you want to pay and what size of enclosure can you accept.
post #423 of 9634
thanks to Brian once again for helping me with some technical questions and i was able to re-calibrate my sub... this is without eq and i have gotten the curve as flat as i can except that big peak that will soon be eq'd off.

Anyone else have curves for the F12, F15 dse or any other rythmik diy subs?


Also Brian... the new 600Watt Amp do you or anyone else have a picture of the plate side where the controls are.

thanks

unsmoothed.




1/6 smoothed

post #424 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducky6 View Post

Also does anyone have any photo's of the matte black finish.

I asked Brian for a photo of the matte finish a while back. Here's a picture Brian sent me.
LL
post #425 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruppy View Post

I asked Brian for a photo's of the matte finish a while back. Here's a picture Brian sent me.

Nice finish... I like the piano black finish...

Bye
post #426 of 9634
Hi All

I started a separate thread for the DIY crowd with the link below. That should help those who are building from the kits Brian is supplying.

Brain I hope you can add some comment there.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1238757
post #427 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Van Belkom View Post

Hi All

I started a separate thread for the DIY crowd with the link below. That should help those who are building from the kits Brian is supplying.

Brain I hope you can add some comment there.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1238428

I'm quite interested in the dual 15"/600w amp kit and could very well be a player later this summer, however wouldn't that thread be more appropriate over in the "DIY speaker and sub" forum ...and it might even garner more interest over there as well.
post #428 of 9634
I edited my post to the new location. Thanks


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1238757
post #429 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruppy View Post

I asked Brian for a photo of the matte finish a while back. Here's a picture Brian sent me.

Thanks for the photo...........I like it!
post #430 of 9634
I just ordered the f15se with the upgaded amp, I have a couple of questions since this is my first sub, I will be comming out of my life sub output of my prepro, should I use a splitter going into the l/r inputs on the sub, or should I just use 1 input, also, what settings should I use on back of sub with this configuration, sorry for my ignorance, I have never used a sub before, I will be using the sub in a 5.1 steup with salk songbird speakers.
post #431 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducky6 View Post

Thanks for the photo...........I like it!

I actually like the looks of it better than the laminates and it would match the finish of my speakers much better. I'm saving my pocket change....
post #432 of 9634
Great sub Panzer, same one I have. I am using a splitter - I believe Brian indicated that the splitter gives you 3db more gain. As far as setting go, search this forum and you will find some answers. I use 14/high damping and have been experimenting with the rest of the controls. I think a lot has to do with your room and what you want it to do. For more extension, you would select low damping. I can't really help you much more because I have only had mine for a couple of weeks but I will tell you that it sounds amazing I'm glad I went with the 600w amp because it gives you 6db more and I have a big room to fill.
post #433 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank45 View Post

Great sub Panzer, same one I have. I am using a splitter - I believe Brian indicated that the splitter gives you 3db more gain. As far as setting go, search this forum and you will find some answers. I use 14/high damping and have been experimenting with the rest of the controls. I think a lot has to do with your room and what you want it to do. For more extension, you would select low damping. I can't really help you much more because I have only had mine for a couple of weeks but I will tell you that it sounds amazing I'm glad I went with the 600w amp because it gives you 6db more and I have a big room to fill.


Splitting the signal gives you 3dB more gain because you are doubling the signal. But when you calibrate, you would end up calibrating it 3dB lower because the amp is producing 3dB more. So you don't get an extra 3dB of headroom from the amp.

And doubling the watts on an amp should give you 3dB more, not 6. To get 6dB more, you need 4x the power. Does Rhythmik say the 600w amp gives 6dB more output than the 300/370w amp?
post #434 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

Splitting the signal gives you 3dB more gain because you are doubling the signal. But when you calibrate, you would end up calibrating it 3dB lower because the amp is producing 3dB more. So you don't get an extra 3dB of headroom from the amp.

And doubling the watts on an amp should give you 3dB more, not 6. To get 6dB more, you need 4x the power. Does Rhythmik say the 600w amp gives 6dB more output than the 300/370w amp?

Let me clarify if I have not done so. Using Y splitter to plug in both R and L input will increase the gain by 6db (2x in terms of voltage). H600 (600WRMS) will give 2db higher output than A370 (370WRMS), and 3db higher than A300(300WRMS) output. I know it is very easy to get these numbers confused.
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post #435 of 9634
There it is Panzer, from the designer himself. I read Brian's posts and generally have to really study them to understand what he is conveying because I am fairly new at this - a lot of it is over my head. I'm sorry that I completely misstated the numbers, I was confused about the db gains - but I did hit the nail on the head with how impressive this F-15 is. I'm listening to some Rush right now and Geddy's bass runs are simply amazing - I am a long time fan of this group and have never heard their music sound this good... better than live!
post #436 of 9634
I' on the fence to get the F15 or the D15. Looks are not too important. I am concerned that Im in a basement room and the F15 may be more localizable? Any truth to that?
post #437 of 9634
According to Brian, as stated on the Ascend forum-the D15 has slightly more output,due to more driver loading from the floor reflection-otherwise, both models have the same servo controlled specs.
post #438 of 9634
I have a D15, crossed over at 80hz, positioned against a side wall, and there is no localization what so ever
post #439 of 9634
David,

Some people can localize 80hz and others can't. You really can't go by what someone else says as your hearing may or may not sense it.

If you can localize 80hz then you're likely to hear it in any sub. I'm one of those who definately can hear 80hz. I've tried it with various subs and could localize it with all of them.
post #440 of 9634
i think a lot of localization that happens at 80hz is a lot to do with phase misalignment also. Not to mention the cone being not in sync.. as a servo sub its much quicker and that probably won't happen.

I was able to localize my previous sub at 80-90hz but i cannot with rythmik as long as the phase is done right.
post #441 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

David,

Some people can localize 80hz and others can't. You really can't go by what someone else says as your hearing may or may not sense it.

If you can localize 80hz then you're likely to hear it in any sub. I'm one of those who definately can hear 80hz. I've tried it with various subs and could localize it with all of them.

In addition to what Jim has pointed out, some sub can be localized because anomaly noise or distortion above 80hz. For instance, a vented sub may have port resonance above 100hz. For who advocates 180hz bandwidth for sub is likely to hear more from port resonance than a 90hz bandwdith sub if he picks a vented sub. So in summary, hearing ability is one issue and subwoofer's anomaly distortion and noise above 80hz is another issue.
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post #442 of 9634
Just wanted to thank Brian for taking some time today to answer all my questions regarding his subwoofer lineup. Looking forward to ordering and hearing what these subs can do!
post #443 of 9634
You will not regret it
post #444 of 9634
I would also like to thanks brian for answering a few many of my questions.

I had gone ahead and got a bfd in my setup to eq the sub's peak and once i am happy with the results i'll post it up with few tricks and hints to setup the sub.
post #445 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by porksoda View Post

I would also like to thanks brian for answering a few many of my questions.

I had gone ahead and got a bfd in my setup to eq the sub's peak and once i am happy with the results i'll post it up with few tricks and hints to setup the sub.

One tip for you with REW and the BFD...

Look at the spectral decay and/or waterfall for your "before" graph, and look at the dips in frequency response. If the roll-off over time at that frequency is smooth and looks natural, then the surrounding areas are likely peaks/room modes that can be brought down to around the level of the bottom of that dip. But if the roll-off in those other graphs shows that the sound is still around that volume 100s of milliseconds later, or is low, then comes back up 100s of ms later, that's a null / cancellation.

You can't do much about a null with eq, have to move the sub or seating location. But if the surrounding frequencies are peaks, you can bring them down to the non-boosted "dip" you see and raise the overall level.

Here are a few examples -- old graphs I took a few years ago, where I had a null in the response. Look at the slope of the graphs overall, over time, then look at about 48Hz and you can see what I'm referring to.


Before EQ:


After EQ (48Hz still looks the same - a null):


Waterfall of after:


These are in the measurements gallery in my signature.

You can also use these graphs to find the specific frequencies to attack with filters to most efficiently bring down the peaks. Look for the frequency at the peak of the bump after 300ms~, and center your filter there. In that first graph, with the layers, the lower blue parts are the in-room boomy echo, or how long the bass is audible and at what SPL after the sub stops playing that frequency. The quicker they fall off, the "tighter" the sound is.
post #446 of 9634
thanks cyberbri

I am not trying to lift the nulls just want to eq the peaks.. infact i won't be applying any + filters only -.

my waterfall is not the greatest as my room is a square with two openings and i think i sit very closely to a point where a null is... i do get adequate bass but... here is a rough eq'd output.

before.. uneq'd 1/3 smoothing:


after eq'd 1/3 smoothing:
post #447 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by porksoda View Post

thanks cyberbri

I am not trying to lift the nulls just want to eq the peaks.. infact i won't be applying any + filters only -.


There are conflicting opinions on this, but I do all of my cut filters, then apply boost filters here and there to bring the response back up to where it originally was. When you cut, you pick the frequency, width, and amount of cut. You can either cut wide and have the left/right sides of that cut drop a lot, use multiple cuts to attack a single peak (which means you use 3-4x the filters), or cut wide then level the response out again by bringing up the parts that dropped. You have to be careful you don't increase ringing (on the waterfall/decay graphs), but this is what I do. I'm more obsessive about getting a really flat, smooth response, and some people are satisfied with +/-3~4dB, which is a 6-8dB swing.


And you might check with the guys at Home Theater Shack to see if your settings are correct. Because it looks like you have a LOT of ringing, very slow decay. Compare yours to mine. Mine goes out to 400ms, but even at 300 it pretty much is off the bottom edge. Although the bottom edge of yours is about 45, and mine's at about 55. Still, you have a lot of overhang there, if that graph is accurate.
post #448 of 9634
Does anyone here have any experience with the eD A7-350 that could tell me how it compares to the Rythmik?

My situation is i moved into a new house, and my new HT area is roughly ~3700 ft^3. Right now i have an eD A2-300 and its just not powerful enough for the room. I would prefer to keep the sub purchase closer to $1k or under, but because i've got such a large room, i've been told that a single sub like an A5-350, etc, may not have enough output.

I'd actually forgotten about the Rythmik sub and remember you guys had a sub that was 15" that was round $900.

Mainly i use the setup for HT, i'd say 80% HT, but i do very much enjoy music listening and it is important to me. I've been told the eD sub is a HT monster, but no mention of how it performs music wise.

If you guys think the Rythmik will provide enough output and extension, i might be willing to give up the "extra" HT benefits of the eD sub in order to gain more refined bass. Not to mention the Rythmik is about 8 million times more aesthetically pleasing haha.
post #449 of 9634
One of my customers, Dave, asked me to verify how AVR handles LFE signals. Under his recommendation, I bought Aria 2 calibration dvd. First, I set the crossover of my Denon 3805 to 150hz in order to preserve as much LFE signal as possible going into SUB pre-out and I used my data acquisition system to capture the waveform and do a fast FFT on it. And to my surprise, that track only has frequencies up to 80hz and the roll-off of 80hz is almost of brick wall type. Here is the waveform and frequency domain plot.




What is more interesting is the xover does not affect LFE going into SUB and at least from Aria 2 the bandwidth is limited to 80hz. In other words, when I set the xover to 40hz in my Denon, the sub preout outputs the same signal. What the crossover point affects is the front channels and other channels that are set to "small". As someone else already pointed out, it is very likely that most DVD will limit the LFE content to below 80hz, apparently to avoid localization of the sub. If the LFE does contain content up to 120hz, we need to use stereo subs to avoid the sub becoming localized. It is actually very easy to do that check. All we need to do is to have a HPF on sub preout to detect any signals above say 85hz.


To make the analysis complete, I also captured the waveform for front channel pre-out and the FFT result is:




BTW, Dave also mentioned a case that I think worth sharing with everyone. His friend used the bypass switch on a Hsu sub to demonstrate that when he disabled bypass and set the low pass filter knob to 80hz, he lost a lot of signals. Actually that makes prefect sense. This is because Hsu's LPF is 24db/oct and at xover point the phase shift is exactly 180 degrees, which is equivalent to reversing phase. So an apple-to-apple comparison is after he disabled bypass, he should set the sub's distance 6ft further so that he can compensate the 180 degrees phase shift at 80hz xover point (BTW, the wavelength at 80hz is 12ft. 180degrees is half wavelength, or 6 ft). So do not just flip that switch and expect everything else is same. As for our sub, we are only 12db/oct. So the phase shift is 90 degrees, and when one switch from our LFE position to AVR/12 position in the Low pass filter setting, he needs to add 3 ft to the sub's distance to get the same phase as in LFE position. Conversely, it one has optimized his system in AVR/12 position, when he switch from AVR/12 to LFE mode, he needs the do the opposite, which is to subtract 3 ft from sub's distance. All above discusssion assumes the xover point is set to 80hz.
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post #450 of 9634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

One of my customers, Dave, asked me to verify how AVR handles LFE signals. Under his recommendation, I bought Aria 2 calibration dvd. First, I set the crossover of my Denon 3805 to 150hz in order to preserve as much LFE signal as possible going into SUB pre-out and I used my data acquisition system to capture the waveform and do a fast FFT on it. And to my surprise, that track only has frequencies up to 80hz and the roll-off of 80hz is almost of brick wall type. Here is the waveform and frequency domain plot.


......

What is more interesting is the xover does not affect LFE going into SUB and at least from Aria 2 the bandwidth is limited to 80hz. In other words, when I set the xover to 40hz in my Denon, the sub preout outputs the same signal. What the crossover point affects is the front channels and other channels that are set to "small". As someone else already pointed out, it is very likely that most DVD will limit the LFE content to below 80hz, apparently to avoid localization of the sub. If the LFE does contain content up to 120hz, we need to use stereo subs to avoid the sub becoming localized. It is actually very easy to do that check. All we need to do is to have a HPF on sub preout to detect any signals above say 85hz.


To make the analysis complete, I also captured the waveform for front channel pre-out and the FFT result is:

......


BTW, Dave also mentioned a case that I think worth sharing with everyone. His friend used the bypass switch on a Hsu sub to demonstrate that when he disabled bypass and set the low pass filter knob to 80hz, he lost a lot of signals. Actually that makes prefect sense. This is because Hsu's LPF is 24db/oct and at xover point the phase shift is exactly 180 degrees, which is equivalent to reversing phase. So an apple-to-apple comparison is after he disabled bypass, he should set the sub's distance 6ft further so that he can compensate the 180 degrees phase shift at 80hz xover point (BTW, the wavelength at 80hz is 12ft. 180degrees is half wavelength, or 6 ft). So do not just flip that switch and expect everything else is same. As for our sub, we are only 12db/oct. So the phase shift is 90 degrees, and when one switch from our LFE position to AVR/12 position in the Low pass filter setting, he needs to add 3 ft to the sub's distance to get the same phase as in LFE position. Conversely, it one has optimized his system in AVR/12 position, when he switch from AVR/12 to LFE mode, he needs the do the opposite, which is to subtract 3 ft from sub's distance. All above discusssion assumes the xover point is set to 80hz.


I am Dave's friend with the HSU sub, and I have a Sony 5300ES receiver.

Did you mean Avia 2, not Aria 2? FYI, the first Avia DVD has an LFE channel sweep that goes from 100Hz to 20Hz. This is the disc I have and use for calibrating my audio/video components.

I believe different brands of receivers handle LFE differently. On one thread here, a certain receiver's manual stated that the speaker/subwoofer crossover point would be applied to the LFE channel as well, and filter out signal above that point from the LFE signal sent to the sub. I don't believe it stated or was clear if the speakers received the LFE signal above that point. My own receiver does not seem to change the LFE output based on the sub/speaker crossover point. So this would need to be tested and verified on a case-by-case basis.

There's a lot of talk about the Rythmik subs in your post, but let me clarify what I spoke with Dave about.

First of all, I told him that I lost a significant amount of bass from my sub during movies when I engaged the HSU's internal 90Hz crossover (that's the max frequency it can be set to). Here's a measurement from REW with the bass going to the mains and subwoofer with an xo point of I think 70-80Hz or so, but with the main speakers turned off to show how much more bass the second xo filters out of the signal that it should be playing. The red line is the normal roll-off slope determined by the receiver to blend with the mains, plus whatever room effects there are. The blue line is with the sub's own 90Hz xo engaged, adding a second filter to roll off the bass even quicker.

The phase setting here shouldn't matter, because it's only the sub playing, no speakers.



I told Dave that engaging this xo meant led to a significant decrease in the amount of bass during movies. The extra filter was reducing the output of the signal that was coming from the other speakers, plus filtering out any LFE signal there could have been up to 120Hz.

This came up because he was looking at I believe several different amp models of Rythmiks that had different frequency responses. I think one rolled off above 90Hz or so, and the other was much flatter to 150Hz or so. I was telling him that the version that rolled off above 90Hz~ could give him reduced levels of higher bass because of this, with the bass management for the mains, plus LFE potentially up to 120Hz.


You make good points about phase and changing the sub distance setting to match. I think I spoke with Dave about this a bit.

Here is a graph of the response from my HSU sub and my speakers, using a single phase setting on my sub, with sub distance setting distances ranging from 3'6" to 8'.




I was able to find the optimum sub distance setting for both 0 and 180 phase settings on the sub (which ended up being about 3'6" (could not go lower than 3'3"), and 6' for the opposite phase setting, with my crossover in the receiver at 70Hz), and after doing so, I optimized my BFD filters to make each variation flat. This graph compares the sub+speakers playing with the sub at 0 and 180 phase settings, with the sub distance changed in the receiver and the BFD eq filter set at the optimal levels.



Graphs are from the gallery in my signature.
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