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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 150

post #4471 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by jheyau View Post

I have also been waiting for the F25 for nearly 8 months already! Brian, please give us a preview of the 800 watt version of the f25, would that be your flagship, what kind of performance can we expect?

Wow 8 months I may have to consider a different sub, since it doesn't seem like the F25 are coming back any time soon.
post #4472 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

So I assume then the "higher damping" setting does not go beyond the point of the system being critically damped? Otherwise, unwound expect the settling time to be longer. So is this nob what you would adjust to take away some of the "boomyness"?...

I will suggest, if your room is "tight" then you would most likely prefer High damping for music listening but other damping settings might be preferred for movie sound effects. Boominess is usually a reflection (pun intended) of the room acoustics rather than directly attributable to the sub's performance, however if the sub is the cause then yes, I suppose High damping could reduce that sort of boominess.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

...With regard to Audyssey, are you saying that the time delay stuff can also effect the SPL which is why my latest plots might show some boost in the 60-80 hz range, or is that more of a comment that changing damping means needing to re-cal?

I'm saying you're judging what Audyssey appears to have done by only looking at one part of the whole. Audyssey considers all the listening positions (the locations you placed the mic during the calibration process), it is adjusting for flatter frequency response for all seats but also for reduced reverberation times. All you have plotted is a frequency response of a single location... Audyssey is trying to find compromise in many other aspects beyond that single position FR. And yes, I would re-calibrate.
post #4473 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by monomer View Post

I will suggest, if your room is "tight" then you would most likely prefer High damping for music listening but other damping settings might be preferred for movie sound effects. Boominess is usually a reflection (pun intended) of the room acoustics rather than directly attributable to the sub's performance, however if the sub is the cause then yes, I suppose High damping could reduce that sort of boominess.

I'm saying you're judging what Audyssey appears to have done by only looking at one part of the whole. Audyssey considers all the listening positions (the locations you placed the mic during the calibration process), it is adjusting for flatter frequency response for all seats but also for reduced reverberation times. All you have plotted is a frequency response of a single location... Audyssey is trying to find compromise in many other aspects beyond that single position FR. And yes, I would re-calibrate.

Thanks for the info. Yea that's what I was saying in my original post, it was my guess that that boost is due to what's going on at the other locations, just didn't have time to measure there
post #4474 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post


Thanks for the info. Yea that's what I was saying in my original post, it was my guess that that boost is due to what's going on at the other locations, just didn't have time to measure there

Either way, I think the plot I have was pretty good! (unless you don't agree :P)
post #4475 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Either way, I think the plot I have was pretty good! (unless you don't agree :P)

For that single position, yes I do agree. The broader the listening area becomes usually the more difficult it is to find a really smooth a response for all listeners. Do know that as you begin to learn more about this 'hobby' of audio, you'll discover other aspects beyond just frequency response and that knowledge will make your tweaking never ending... enjoy.
post #4476 of 9709
The FV15HP seems to hold its own vs. the SVS PB-13 going by the review that was posted on the other site. The PB-13 outshoots the FV15HP by 3 Db at 20 Hz, but the FV15HP takes over above 25 Hz, with a 2.5 Db edge at 40 Hz, and increases above that. Pretty impressive for a sub costing $800 less!
post #4477 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkl525 View Post

The FV15HP seems to hold its own vs. the SVS PB-13 going by the review that was posted on the other site. The PB-13 outshoots the FV15HP by 3 Db at 20 Hz, but the FV15HP takes over above 25 Hz, with a 2.5 Db edge at 40 Hz, and increases above that. Pretty impressive for a sub costing $800 less!

How does The Rythmik do it ?, if you look at the Rythmik Driver it aint that "substantial" compared to the other drivers and I reckon the enclosure is not as big as the SVS ? then you have the 400 watts difference in power.

Whats the secret Brian ?
post #4478 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkl525 View Post

The FV15HP seems to hold its own vs. the SVS PB-13 going by the review that was posted on the other site. The PB-13 outshoots the FV15HP by 3 Db at 20 Hz, but the FV15HP takes over above 25 Hz, with a 2.5 Db edge at 40 Hz, and increases above that. Pretty impressive for a sub costing $800 less!

Which site? I have not seen it compared to the pb13 before.
post #4479 of 9709
There are reviews for the Rythmik and SVS at audioholics.
post #4480 of 9709
F25 clarification-If I understand post 4460 correctly, than the F25, with the H800 amp, will have a separate 400Watt, classD amp powering each 15" driver. In essence, it will be like having two 370 watt amps (increased to 400 watts, of course, operating in class D) mounted on one plate structure, with a common set of controls, and features, affecting both drivers.

If I am correct, than I would not want to have anyone think that each driver would be receiving 800 watt rms potential output at the same time-the max for each would be 400 wrms continuous, not taking into consideration, whatever dynamic "headroom" each amp section possesses
post #4481 of 9709
I've spent the last two hours searching for the answer and have come up empty.

Can anyone here tell me the volume that the driver and amp take up inside the enclosure for the DS1510, H600 PEQ components?

Thanks,

Brad
post #4482 of 9709
I for one would love to see a ported FV25 in the future. Although the box would probably be enormous, lol.
post #4483 of 9709
how long is the Rythmik FV12 on sale for?
post #4484 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesSailor View Post

I've spent the last two hours searching for the answer and have come up empty.

Can anyone here tell me the volume that the driver and amp take up inside the enclosure for the DS1510, H600 PEQ components?

Thanks,

Brad

The driver is around 0.3cu and the amp is around 0.1cu ft. Our recommendaton is 3-4cu ft based on actual test box. So if you are in that range for internal dimension minus bracing, you are good. You can also make it 0.4cu ft larger and that wouldn't hurt. The only impovement one can get from there is the output below say 15hz.
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post #4485 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by fordf250 View Post

F25 clarification-If I understand post 4460 correctly, than the F25, with the H800 amp, will have a separate 400Watt, classD amp powering each 15" driver. In essence, it will be like having two 370 watt amps (increased to 400 watts, of course, operating in class D) mounted on one plate structure, with a common set of controls, and features, affecting both drivers.

If I am correct, than I would not want to have anyone think that each driver would be receiving 800 watt rms potential output at the same time-the max for each would be 400 wrms continuous, not taking into consideration, whatever dynamic "headroom" each amp section possesses

You are correct. F25 is for those who want higher output from smaller footprint (because it is taller, or literally is two stacked F15) or minimal wiring. Otherwise, it would be just slightly cheaper than F15 x2 minus discount. I have been holding off the shipment of F25 becuase I really like to offer 400Wrms x2 plates and not having customers have buyer's remose later.
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post #4486 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

I for one would love to see a ported FV25 in the future. Although the box would probably be enormous, lol.

You are correct. The other day, we have a customer with Prius. The entire FV15HP with packaging box fits in there without a problem on its side. Anything wider or bigger means extra help would be needed to handle these subs. That is why it is a sweetspot in terms of size.
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post #4487 of 9709
I'll add my name to the list of people waiting to see if a FV25HP gets produced...
post #4488 of 9709
Hi Brian,

Do you have measurements comparing 3 and 4 Cu ft for the sealed 15 inch kits ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

The driver is around 0.3cu and the amp is around 0.1cu ft. Our recommendaton is 3-4cu ft based on actual test box. So if you are in that range for internal dimension minus bracing, you are good. You can also make it 0.4cu ft larger and that wouldn't hurt. The only impovement one can get from there is the output below say 15hz.
post #4489 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverx0ne View Post

I'll add my name to the list of people waiting to see if a FV25HP gets produced...

I think that would be the 2x700W (H1400) F25 which will follow the H800 version. That might be far into next year; by the time the H800 version is ready, I would have waited about a year already, so I will just be content with the H800 F25.
post #4490 of 9709
Just decided to try to do REW for first time. Not sure if I'm doing right so want to put my graphs here to look at. I'm using a Antimode and Subdude with F15. Blue line is EQ red isn't. Does it look ok? Seems like I have some nulls.
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post #4491 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peen View Post

Just decided to try to do REW for first time. Not sure if I'm doing right so want to put my graphs here to look at. I'm using a Antimode and Subdude with F15. Blue line is EQ red isn't. Does it look ok? Seems like I have some nulls.

Yeh, there seems to be some pretty big nulls. What is your crossover set at? If 60hz, perhaps the speakers are out of phase which is what is causing that null. REW made me realize that my sub distance in my AVR was just wrong, which was causing a huge null around 80-120hz.

I have recently been playing with REW myself and below is what the response looks like at the listening position. The purple line is with Audyssey Flat turned on and the Teal line is with Audyssey off. It does a pretty darn good job imo, but I did have significantly modify the sub distance that it had choosen as it just wasn't working well as you will see below.

The sub is a single F12, set to 14hz, high damping and with the Rumble filter On. I also have PEQ on with a medium bandwidth 3db boost at 80hz (except for the green line).

Purple: Audyssey Flat / 80hz Crossover / PEQ On / 10.7ft in AVR.
Green: Audyssey Flat / 80hz Crossover / PEQ Off / 5.7ft in AVR (default set by Audyssey)
Teal: Audyssey Off / 80hz Crossover / PEQ On / 10.7ft in AVR

post #4492 of 9709
Wondering if Rythmik subs can be bought in China and picked up to avoid shipping fees?
post #4493 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicHSAD View Post

Yeh, there seems to be some pretty big nulls. What is your crossover set at? If 60hz, perhaps the speakers are out of phase which is what is causing that null. REW made me realize that my sub distance in my AVR was just wrong, which was causing a huge null around 80-120hz.

I have recently been playing with REW myself and below is what the response looks like at the listening position. The purple line is with Audyssey Flat turned on and the Teal line is with Audyssey off. It does a pretty darn good job imo, but I did have significantly modify the sub distance that it had choosen as it just wasn't working well as you will see below.

The sub is a single F12, set to 14hz, high damping and with the Rumble filter On. I also have PEQ on with a medium bandwidth 3db boost at 80hz (except for the green line).

Purple: Audyssey Flat / 80hz Crossover / PEQ On / 10.7ft in AVR.
Green: Audyssey Flat / 80hz Crossover / PEQ Off / 5.7ft in AVR (default set by Audyssey)
Teal: Audyssey Off / 80hz Crossover / PEQ On / 10.7ft in AVR


I have it set to 80hz, although I have set it to 150 just to try to get the speakers out the way a bit. Didn't make too much difference.

I move the sub to the other side of the tv...and the null at 60hz got much worse and went all the way down to like 50db. Then put it closer to me in a couple different spots and the null turned into a big peak. No where good to put sub in my apartment.
post #4494 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peen View Post

I have it set to 80hz, although I have set it to 150 just to try to get the speakers out the way a bit. Didn't make too much difference.

I move the sub to the other side of the tv...and the null at 60hz got much worse and went all the way down to like 0db. Then put it closer to me in a couple different spots and the null turned into a big peak. No where good to put sub in my apartment.

Take the area that results in a peak, and then knock down the peak with some EQ.
post #4495 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by cschang View Post

Take the area that results in a peak, and then knock down the peak with some EQ.

You mean with PEQ? I tried with antimode but it was still peaking pretty bad. Not only that but I can't actually put the sub there for good its in my walk way, but was a good test just to see

Can I boost that null at 60hz with PEQ?
post #4496 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peen View Post


You mean with PEQ? I tried with antimode but it was still peaking pretty bad. Not only that but I can't actually put the sub there for good its in my walk way, but was a good test just to see

Can I boost that null at 60hz with PEQ?

I was able to boost one at 43ish well using PEQ
post #4497 of 9709
So, I've read through the first 31 pages of this thread without finding a conclusive answer to the question I'm asking myself - do I need an F15 or can I get by with the F12. Room size is 1330 c.f., which would seem to favor going with the smaller F12, but I keep coming across comments from those who say go with the biggest sub you've got room for as you can always adjust the output down for the room but it's harder to adjust up if you go to a larger room. On the other hand, there's the school of thought that favors dual subs for the purpose of smoothing out room nodes and whatnot, so maybe I'd be better off going with an F12 to start with and maybe getting another one down the road. I have an F15 on order with Ascend and I need to decide before the back-ordered amps arrive whether to stick with that order or downgrade it to the F12. Thoughts?

The other question has to do with cable length. I read where Brian recommends a maximum sub cable length of 15', but before reading that I had ordered a 20' RCA cable from Blue Jeans plus the 1' y-cable. Given that Blue Jeans makes high quality shielded cables, is it likely that the 20 footer will work just fine or should I go ahead and see about sending it back for a shorter cable? I ordered the 20 footer so that I could comfortably move the sub to all corners of my room while searching for the best spot.

Thanks in advance for any advice...
post #4498 of 9709
The price differential is sooo small I'd say stick with the F15. If down the road you want a second sub then make it another F15, again the price differential is really quite minimal for the added headroom. About the only reason I would suggest you get an F12 would be if you didn't have the space for the larger F15 or if the woofers in your mains were really dinky (like under 6" say).
Don't stress the cable length... I'm running 25 footers and splitters from Monoprice without issue... I seriously doubt you will experience any problems.
post #4499 of 9709
Ok, thanks for that reply. My mains are the Focal 807v's, which have 7" mid-bass drivers, so I guess that's another argument for the F15, as I've seen Brian's statements about going for the larger sub for anything above about 6.5" in the mains. Not sure I'm understanding the logic there, so if anyone can explain it, please do. Thanks.
post #4500 of 9709
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuck0411 View Post

Ok, thanks for that reply. My mains are the Focal 807v's, which have 7" mid-bass drivers, so I guess that's another argument for the F15, as I've seen Brian's statements about going for the larger sub for anything above about 6.5" in the mains. Not sure I'm understanding the logic there, so if anyone can explain it, please do. Thanks.

Another vote for the f15.
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