Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 160

Customers can still choose PEQ3 amps. It is considered as special configuration that customers need to inquire us before placing order.

It is part of the growing pain as well. I had to stay away from this thread for many reasons. But now the amps are starting to come in again. We can start to fill in back orders and new orders. That will make the communication more effective.

Is the new HP F25 going to use the same cabinet as the standard F25?
and is there a CI Price yet?

Brian, I noticed a few days ago that the new link for the PEQ3 quickguide on the F12SE web page was broken... it still is.

Thanks.

Just received a shipment notice from Rythmik that my FV15HP has shipped and will be here on Thursday! Can't wait to start playing with the sub. For those waiting on subs, looks like the wait will soon be over.

And just in time for the holidays, eh... Post back here with your impression of your new FV15HP once you've got it set-up and dialed into your system. I have two sealed Rythmiks but I for one would like to read more personal subjective reviews on the vented models. Thanks...

I'm still enjoying my FV15HP. I think I got the last one before they ran out of amps. Sounds super clean like my old F12 and can put out the rumble effortlessly. Love it.

Yes. I will use the same cabinet. I don't have the price yet because it will be a while before F25HP becomes available. I need to get XLR2 XLR3 out first, then HX800, and finally HX1400.


Please try it again.

BTW, I will be air shipping more than a hundred amps here. Some will arrive earlier than others. So if you don't get yours right away, please be a bit patient with me.

Hi Brian,

From conversations with Danny (and looking at his website) I see the 8 inch driver is now available.

The one Danny has is 16ohm and best used in a multiple driver configuration.

He indicated you were receiving a shipment with lower impedance.

I want to do a single driver, sealed sub (about 1.2cf) and wonder what would be the best driver/amp combo.

Thanks

8" drivers come in 3 flavors: 4ohm, 8ohm, and 12ohm. The former two are for sealed enclosures. We recommend 0.8 cu ft for each driver. A single 8" does not move a lot of air though. So at least four is recommend with two drivers on each side. You can use our A300SE to drive two of them in parallel If you just want to use one 8", you need to wait for HX250 that can driver 3 8" OB drivers in parallel or one single sealed 8" driver. An HX500 can drive two 8" drivers. With the production problem of the supplier, we have just finalized the design. Normally that would take 4-5 months to deliver. I am asking the supplier to speed up. The schedule issue is why I cannot provide too many specifics.

Why are the new amps needed? Wouldn't one of the 370PEQ or 600PEQ amps work?

It is mainly for usable tuning range. For instance, the phase adjustment range for 370PEQ is too large, not good if one wants to do 1ms or 2ms type of delay/phase adjustment. In addition, we need to make the panel width to be narrower (7-3/8") so that it is more flexible with enclosure width.

Brian, are you guys going to be at CES?

Hi -

Will the new PEQ3 amp be included on the F15 subs? Should I care?

What are the main differences vs. the PEQ2? I saw something about it having no high pass filter. Is the PEQ2 being phased out?

Hi
I just sold my SVS PB 12+, and I have setup a new 11 channel system in a space which is about 10 (W), 10 (H), 20 (L). My sitting position is about 10 feet away from the screen, and the subs will be located at either side of my TV console which is about 11 feet away from my sitting position - the spot for the SVS in the picture, and the other side will be used to site a 8 inch Velodyne Minivee (which I am thinking of using to fill in the mid-bass).

I liked the extension and SPLs of the SVS, but it felt a tad loose, and will like a new sub which is tight, deep and can give me that nice thump and rumble in the chest.

My question:

Will the F15HP be able to do this, or should I get the FV15HP?
I am concerned that the vented one is less tight.
Also will I need to use the Minivee at all?

Thanks

Not this year. I will be in Denver to play with snows Maybe next year when we have the F25 and all my HX series amps ready. Monomer know I have limited time for travel :-)



PEQ3 replaces PEQ2. For those who wants HPF, we would recommend A370PEQ. There will be no H600PEQ.

As long as one uses AVR, there is no need for HPF. That was the reason behind phasing out HPF RCA jacks and replace them with LFE inputs. That way customers who still have dedicated 2ch and separate HT system can use one sub to do both jobs.

That is too bad for those who want a quality sub in a 2.1 system where there is no HPF in the pre-amp. It means those systems are restricted to 370watts (by the way, what impedance are your wattage figures for).

They've all been rated at 4 ohms so far. http://www.rythmikaudio.com/amplifiers.html

Well, all PEQ preamp and PEQ3 share the same preamp boards, just with different component options. That is why we go with PEQ3 redesig so that they share same preamp board. If you want HPF, we can put HPF back. You just need a stick to cover "LFE IN" with another stick for HPF OUT.

IMO:

1. The F15HP should be fine unless you really want/need the higher output of the vented design.

2. Probably true, but "less tight" with the servo circuit is still "tighter" than most other subs. I doubt you would notice the difference.

3. I would not, especially for midbass. You risk localizing the upper bass and destroying the image. It could be useful as another woofer, if your AVR can properly integrate two subs. Even then it may corrupt the clean sound from your new Rythmik. Use it elsewhere or sell it. Do not put it in a closet in case you might need it later; I have tens of thousands of dollars of ancient equipment in storage that would have been far better off in somebody's home...

Agreed^.

If your main reason for changing is to get a tighter sound, go for the sealed option. You can't make the sound tighter by adding subs later, but you can make the sound louder by adding another sub. Having said this, I don't think you will find an F15HP wanting for output in a room that size.

Ditch the Minivee. It will be more trouble than it's worth to integrate. Localisability and distortion are your enemy.

Thanks friends
I visited my local retailer, and the D15SE impressed me more than the F15HP in terms of the tactile rumble.

So I asked him if the F15HP does the same, he said it's tight, easier to place, but the FV15HP does all of the above, and more, except ported subs are harder to place.

In the end, I went with the FV15HP. The SVS PB 12+ has a lot of bass, but it felt flabby. So I wanted a unit with plenty of bass and yet was a tad tighter.

It seems the FV15HP can do this and keep a little in reserve. Fingers crossed though on placement as I only have one dedicated spot and crawling around for bass isn't an option since the position of the sub is pretty much fixed due to aesthetic reasons...

Will turn off the miniVee first and re-calibrate when my sub comes.

Really hoping the corner placement gets me that rumble and feeling in the chest.

I hope this will clarify the usage model of PEQ3

There is no switch to switch between signal sources. The system will play all signal sources at the same time. So it is up to the user to make sure how these signals are not playing at the same time (or overlapping as little as possible). Speaker level is just like LINE-IN in which the crossover and phase still have function. The recommended way of using it in a single system is obvious and I will not elaborate here. For a dual system, the dedicated 2ch signal goes to LINE-IN and the AVR SUB out goes to LFE IN. In 2ch mode, one will run the front speaker full range. Adjust the phase and crossover so that sub gets good integration. For the best result, set the LPF to 50hz/24 and then adjust phase and crossover controls. In HT mode, set the front speakers to “SMALL” and set crossover frequency to 80hz. Don’t touch any control on PEQ3 now. Use your AVR menu to set the subwoofer volume level. Adjust in the subwoofer distance menu so that you get good phase alignment. The idea is that after you set the front speakers to small, there is very little signal below 80hz that can pass via line-in to the sub.

Hi everyone

I've been lurking in this thread (and I've read the whole thing) over the past several weeks. I'm about to replace my stereo/home theater setup (trying to sell it now). I'm pretty sure I want the sound of sealed subs for the new system. Originally I was looking at a pair of Hsu ULS-15, but then I found Rythmik and began investigating. Based on what I've read, it sounds like I can at least match the SQ of the Hsu (and likely exceed it) for less coin if I build a pair of DS1501 or DS1510. I'd love to do a pair of dual driver kits (F25), but the budget, space, WAF might preclude it. And I don't really need it . . . not that that would stop me!

My current system uses a pair of 12" subs, each having two 10" passive radiators and a 500 watt amp. This sub is part of Phase Technology's dARTS system. I have not had a problem with output (never bottomed the subs), but the Rythmiks should get me an entire octave of additional extension and probably more output as well.

I'm not entirely sure what speakers I will be using (still investigating that), but likely it will be a large 2-way "bookshelf" speaker with an 8" woofer for the front soundstage. An Anthem MRX receiver will likely drive them. The room itself is about 1860 cu ft, but it also opens via three stairs up to a hallway. The total volume entirely enclosed by walls is about 3140 cu ft.

My time is probably split about 70/30 movies/music, but I do value the cleanest, tightest sound for both. I've attached a drawing of my room. What do you guys think? Will a pair of DS1501 do the trick, or should I pop for the DS1510? Or perhaps I need to stretch the budget a bit and duplicate a pair of F25! You can never have too much headroom . . .

I'd do twin DS1510s with the 600 watt amps. Like you said, one cannot have too much headroom, and rarely do you hear many folks complaining of too much, overpowering, tight accurate bass reproduction (especially for HT).

I have a single F15 (purchased this past August) in my LR, kitchen, dining room, foyer adjoining rooms. About 7000 ft3. It has punch but I'm thinking about a second F15 down the road perhaps for HT output authority. The F15 is so tight and clean, no boomy junk here. I did the first 15 minutes once again of the Master and Commander dvd just this morning, awesome cannon battle. In a room of your size, I think you would be well pleased with the 2 DS1510s (F15HP). For musical clarity, Rythmiks are the ticket. Very pleased with mine.

Hello all,
I am a very proud owner of a F12se. I have a question? Is there any switch on the back of the sub that forces the sub to cross over at 80hz, even though I have the cross over dial set to the highest #?

Yes there is, the "Low Pass" 3 position switch can do this when set to 80hz/24. If you are using an AVR (with its own Low Pass settings) to manage your sub, this switch should be set to Ext/12. The "Low Pass" switch works in conjunction with the "Crossover knob". See Rythmik's detailed description of controls below:

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/amplifier_controls.html

Hello thanks for the reply. On my sub it says
LFE switch all the way down (3rd pos),. AVR 12, middle switch ( 2nd pos) , And 80hz/24. Top ( 1st pos). So iAVR 12 the same as Ext/12?
what is the diff between LFE, and AVR/12?

Actually I just read that LFE switch increases the subs crossover range to 180hz.

On the lower left corner is the switch for LPF. If you are not using AVR, then there are two methods of using the sub: 1) run the front speakers as full range and only use the sub to supplement the output. This is the high end approach because after spending tens of thousands dollars on speakers/amplifiers, some audiophiles are reluctant to introduce factors that can alter sound signature of front speakers. In this case, one should set LPF to either 50hz/24 and gradually lower the crossover knob to get the best integration. Phase adjustment may also be necessary. We have a program to help customers; 2) use HPF on front speakers. If the customer does consider this path, they may just consider using AVR with bass management after all. If budget is limited or one bought those HK AVRs without bass management (HK3480?), then one need to use HPF from the plate amp. Specify A370PEQ/H600PEQ amp option when placing orders. On the plate amp, set the LPF switch to 80hz/24 and set the crossover knob to 2 o'clock position.

With AVR, the customers should always set the front speakers to small and set the crossover to 80hz or lower. On the LPF switch, set it to AVR/12 if there is no dedicated LFE RCA input. Set phase to 0 and crossover knob to max. On A370PEQ3/H600PEQ3 with dedicated LFE RCA inputs, one can use either LFE RCA inputs (where phase and crossover knobs don't have function) or RCA line-in (where one should set LPF to AVR/12, phase to 0, and crossover to 80hz). The sonic difference of the two is LFE will sound slightly forward. It is good for modern/pop music. The sound of the other one is slightly lay-back, good for jazz and etc.