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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 186

post #5551 of 15127
I am considering buying dual F15HP subs and I am still researching but it appears if I order from Ascend Acoustics they have a 10% discount on duals. Any downsides from ordering from Ascend Acoustics?
post #5552 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Well I just wanted to say that I am now officially a part of the Rythmik family. I took delivery of my new "baby" today. A bouncing baby FV15HP! This thing is a thing of beauty and at first blush is a monster of a sub.

Here she is.

I was surprised though that the grill is covered in a very transparent cloth. I like it, just did not expect it.

Regards,

RTROSE

Kinda like see through lingerie for a sub
post #5553 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigotis View Post

I am considering buying dual F15HP subs and I am still researching but it appears if I order from Ascend Acoustics they have a 10% discount on duals. Any downsides from ordering from Ascend Acoustics?

Not at all-I ordered my first Rythmik from Ascend.
post #5554 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigotis View Post

I am considering buying dual F15HP subs and I am still researching but it appears if I order from Ascend Acoustics they have a 10% discount on duals. Any downsides from ordering from Ascend Acoustics?

You will receive the same discount if you order directly from Rythmik. The discount is reflected in your cart when you add 2 identical subwoofers.
post #5555 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by capecodorthopod View Post

Kinda like see through lingerie for a sub

Hope you guys know the purpose: it is to allow more air to pass through so customers can keep the grille on.
post #5556 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by capecodorthopod View Post

Kinda like see through lingerie for a sub


Agreed. That sheer look is super repressed-sexy, kind of like curvy table legs showing from underneath the tablecloth in Victorian times.







What?
post #5557 of 15127
That piano finish sure is nice.
post #5558 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

Hope you guys know the purpose: it is to allow more air to pass through so customers can keep the grille on.

Well I guess it serves two purposes then. It looks fantastic (love the lingerie analogy) and allows the sub to breath. So it is sexy and functional, unlike lingerie which is mostly sexy without much practicality. But that is another discussion for a DIFFERENT type of forum.

Regardless of how this sub is dressed it performs fantastic!

Thanks Rythmic!

Regards,

RTROSE
post #5559 of 15127
This has probably been asked before but do the Rythmik's amps have a fuse? Is is recommended to just plug directly into a wall outlet with no surge protection?
post #5560 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboswede95 View Post

This has probably been asked before but do the Rythmik's amps have a fuse? Is is recommended to just plug directly into a wall outlet with no surge protection?

Yes they do have a fuse (you can see it labeled on their amp diagrams). Not sure what their recommendation is regarding serge protection. I'd guess it doesn't matter, but I am no expert on that, so I'll leave it to someone else that might know better.
post #5561 of 15127
yes it comes with fuses, my f15 kit came with extra fuses as well
post #5562 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboswede95 View Post

This has probably been asked before but do the Rythmik's amps have a fuse? Is is recommended to just plug directly into a wall outlet with no surge protection?

A surge protector uses a device in series with the power to detect the current and therefore protect equipment. Consequently the quality of that device can have impact on the max output. An easier to understand principle is the quality of house wiring. Older house with 16-18 gauge wiring can easily lose 20W or even more at the max output as compared to new house with 12 gauge wiring. The reason is the current draw causes the resistance on the wall electrical wiring to have in IR drop (IR drop is current times resistance = voltage drop on your power line). So how much is that peak current? It is at least 5 times as much as your rated power because power capacitor gets charge at a rate of 120hz. It is not a continuous current demand as one may intuitively think. Any device that converts AC to DC does not draw constant current.

Same principal to surge protector. If one wants to use one, pick one with higher power rating.

I use mine without surge protector. Our A370/H600 (being class A/B and H) have higher voltage tolerance margin. If your wall power is 5% higher, it actually gets 10% more power. It is not to encourage customers to jack up the wall power. Just to explain the consequence. The upcoming HX amplifier power may have lower max voltage tolerance and therefore need a surge protector if the power in your area is not stable.
post #5563 of 15127
Due to hum that I could not eliminate no matter what I tried, I am using my D15SE with a cheater plug (three prong to two prong). Is that bad? What else would you recommend to eliminate hum?

I've tried different power outlets, surge protectors, different shielded cables, etc... Nothing worked.
post #5564 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicology View Post

Due to hum that I could not eliminate no matter what I tried, I am using my D15SE with a cheater plug (three prong to two prong). Is that bad? What else would you recommend to eliminate hum?

I've tried different power outlets, surge protectors, different shielded cables, etc... Nothing worked.

[EDIT:]

There are a couple of customers with same problem and asking exactly same question about cheater plug and it would be good if I answer these questions.

It is always good to work out the ground loop problem if one can. Ground loop is caused by power ground interfering with the signal ground (such as causing a loop, or) Normally it is caused by set top box or anything that have antenna, or long cable that goes to outdoor, because they are more often to be hit by lightning. There are special decoupler/isolator designed for them I think. Also it can be caused by bad design of a particular component. For instance, no equipment should tie signal ground and power ground together, instead, there should be a 10ohm resistor between them. Since sub is the last added component and often being mistaken as the offending source.
post #5565 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Well I just wanted to say that I am now officially a part of the Rythmik family. I took delivery of my new "baby" today. A bouncing baby FV15HP! This thing is a thing of beauty and at first blush is a monster of a sub.

Here she is.






RTROSE

Congrats on your new child and may he be a masculine child!!

I took delivery of my new Baby a few weeks ago and nobody is getting any sleep anymore since the baby came
post #5566 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboswede95 View Post

This has probably been asked before but do the Rythmik's amps have a fuse? Is is recommended to just plug directly into a wall outlet with no surge protection?

I was always told not to plug a sub into a powerstrip. Into the wall is fine.
post #5567 of 15127
The peq2 amp has two fuses. I'm not sure if there's a recommendation on wall outlet or power strip. I have my f12se's plugged directly into wall sockets.
post #5568 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

I was always told not to plug a sub into a powerstrip. Into the wall is fine.

Why would it be better to expose a sub to surges?
post #5569 of 15127
Power strips and or surge suppressors are fine but not power conditioners, they could limit the amount of amps drawn.
post #5570 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigotis View Post

I am considering buying dual F15HP subs and I am still researching but it appears if I order from Ascend Acoustics they have a 10% discount on duals. Any downsides from ordering from Ascend Acoustics?

I ordered mine through them (and shipped to Ireland) no regrets, I ordered 1 x F15 to start, then a 2nd and then ordered 2 x F15HP and have not looked back.
post #5571 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicology View Post

Due to hum that I could not eliminate no matter what I tried, I am using my D15SE with a cheater plug (three prong to two prong). Is that bad? What else would you recommend to eliminate hum?

I've tried different power outlets, surge protectors, different shielded cables, etc... Nothing worked.


IMO it's a bad idea.

What all did you try? I had hum on a couple of mine (longish RCA cable run (of around 6m) and putting an inline transformer in the signal path eliminated it. This is much safer than defeating the grounding.
post #5572 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

There are a couple of customers with same problem and asking exactly same question about cheater plug and it would be good if I answer these questions.

I have used 4 different models of Denon AVR with power consumption of at least 600W and none of them has power ground pin on their power socket. Using a cheater plug achieve the same result -- removing the ground connection. Anyone who say using cheater plug is a bad practice should write Denon an letter.

I'm a little surprised to hear you say that Brian, surely it's different if a piece of gear has been designed for only 2-pin use, the lack of the safety ground has been taken into consideration and the areas which could be prone to cause an electric shock would have been "double insulated" for example. On the other hand, if a unit has a ground pin, it is usually there for a reason and should be used (IMO of course).

That said, if the item is not in a metal case (like the subwoofers) there is presumably less exposed metal that could become "hot" to be touched.
post #5573 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis.ie View Post

I'm a little surprised to hear you say that Brian,

I stand corrected. Class 2 needs double insulation which is different from class 1. I corrected the post accordingly.
post #5574 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

[EDIT:]

There are a couple of customers with same problem and asking exactly same question about cheater plug and it would be good if I answer these questions.

It is always good to work out the ground loop problem if one can. Ground loop is caused by power ground interfering with the signal ground (such as causing a loop, or) Normally it is caused by set top box or anything that have antenna, because they are more often to be hit by lightning. There are special decoupler/isolator designed for them I think. Also it can be caused by bad design of a particular component. Since sub is the last added component and often being mistaken as the offending source.

I had the same question as well and a cheater plug worked for me. Looks like its not the best method though. I believe it is my DirecTV box. I had the same issue with a cable box years ago. It's the only thing with a potential ground connection not on the same circuit as my equipment.

If anyone has any details on these decoupled/isolator things Brian is referencing and knows where to get them please share so we can take care of this the correct way.
post #5575 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicology View Post

Due to hum that I could not eliminate no matter what I tried, I am using my D15SE with a cheater plug (three prong to two prong). Is that bad? What else would you recommend to eliminate hum?

I've tried different power outlets, surge protectors, different shielded cables, etc... Nothing worked.

Actually, you're not making the situation worse of better. The "cheater plug" should have a wire, usually green, that you're supposed to attach to ground. Typically, that means affixing the green wire to to the screw that holds the faceplate over the socket. But, this also presumes that you're wiring is grounded. If that's not the case, it doesn't matter what you do, it won't do anything.
post #5576 of 15127
So I had to postpone my FV15HP for diapers, formula, and the like. No biggie, it's not like I'm having much opportunity to really enjoy the deep bass explosions in some great action movie at high-volume at the moment.

Just wondering, I read somewhere in this thread about an H800 amp and possible rear-facing ports. If I'm wrong, let me know, it's been several days since I had a full night of uninterrupted sleep. Anyway, two things:

H800 Amp: Is this going to be an option on all of the models? How will it differ from the H600 (or will it only be for certain subwoofers)?

Rear-facing Ports a/o Down-Firing Sub: Will the FV15HP be offered with rear-facing ports or as a down-firing sub? I'm wondering for two reasons. First, it might make it more appealing to my wife if it looks like furniture rather than a hyuge speaker, although we'll deal wither way. Second, I think the only convenient location for the subwoofer in my place might be facing more or less into our love seat along the wall, or otherwise at least partially facing into some sort of furniture. Would that be an issue, and if so would a down-firing sub be a better option, or at least something worth considering, or will that really matter too much?

-Cheers
post #5577 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis.ie View Post


IMO it's a bad idea.

What all did you try? I had hum on a couple of mine (longish RCA cable run (of around 6m) and putting an inline transformer in the signal path eliminated it. This is much safer than defeating the grounding.

Can you link me to the inline transformer you're talking about?
post #5578 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicology View Post

Can you link me to the inline transformer you're talking about?

Here are two I found:

1. For RF cable

2. For RCA cable

Blue Jeans Cable also sells the Calrad RCA isolator, but for a somewhat higher price... I'm sure there are many other similar products/vendors if one is interested in searching.
post #5579 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by petaylor View Post


Actually, you're not making the situation worse of better. The "cheater plug" should have a wire, usually green, that you're supposed to attach to ground. Typically, that means affixing the green wire to to the screw that holds the faceplate over the socket. But, this also presumes that you're wiring is grounded. If that's not the case, it doesn't matter what you do, it won't do anything.

I had a hum that wouldn't go away until I bought a cable from Blue Jeans. Then, everything was great. To me it's worth using a 30$ cable on a 1300$ piece of equipment
post #5580 of 15127
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicology View Post

Can you link me to the inline transformer you're talking about?

For less than $8 you could buy this http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Monoprice is your best deal for cables and wires,anything more $ is just an ego boost and a waste of money.
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