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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 209

post #6241 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

When I run my YPAO I set the sub's volume at 12 run YPAO and then boost the sub setting by about three decibels and turn the volume up to about 1 or 1:30. Just about perfect!

Regards,

RTROSE

Try this,you'll need a tape measure and a decent spl meter. Measure the actual distance from your LP to each speaker. Go into manual set-up and enter those distances. Use the subtuner2 to set the sub distance. Turn the volume up to around -15 and turn the test tone on.Using the spl meter at your LP,adjust the levels(in manual set-up) so they all read the same on the meter(when you select each speaker,the test tone will stay on that speaker). It doesn't matter what number the meter reads,as long as it reads the same for all speakers. Be sure that all speakers are set to small. You've just out-YPAOed the YPAO! Enjoy!
post #6242 of 9677
^ That method ignores phase delay caused by processing and crossover phase shift. The delay needed to align the sound waves may not (probably does not) match the physical distance. There are numerous posts in this thread and others describing this.
post #6243 of 9677
Brian, thanks for the clarification on how to setup the sub before running EQ. It does seem counter intuitive which is why I set mine up incorrectly. Now I get play with my sub again :-) As if I needed another excuse.
post #6244 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

^ That method ignores phase delay caused by processing and crossover phase shift. The delay needed to align the sound waves may not (probably does not) match the physical distance. There are numerous posts in this thread and others describing this.

First of all I have to say that I am a Yamaha fan,have owned many Yamaha products over the decades. That aside,YPAO is the simplest,crudest room correction system out there. Yamaha and Pioneer need to just pay Audyssey their fee. Anyone who has used YPAO has seen how it sets speaker sizes and levels wrong. Technically you are right,but with this kind of inaccuracy,how do you know it's compensating phase delay and crossover shift correctly? If you read my post, all I said was "Try this",never made any technical claims. Almost everyone I know of that has tried the method I suggested has said it sounds better. Decide for yourself. Folks should set their system up so it sounds the best to them;they paid for it and have to live with it. I don't see any harm in trying something that might make it sound better,whether it's technically correct or not. Sometimes it's surprising what works in the real world.(based on over 40 years in the audio business)
post #6245 of 9677
Fine, I'll skip the pissing contest, just check out Brian's website for info on how to set the phase of the sub to match the mains, then adjust as you please. It has also been discussed in this thread. Setting the physical distance is only a starting point...

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/phase1.html
post #6246 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Fine, I'll skip the pissing contest, just check out Brian's website for info on how to set the phase of the sub to match the mains, then adjust as you please. It has also been discussed in this thread. Setting the physical distance is only a starting point...

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/phase1.html

From my post #6243(above); "Use the subtuner2 to set the sub distance". That is how Brian says to set the phase of the sub to match the mains. The subtuner2 (Brian's own design) uses the actual distances.

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/subtuner2.html
post #6247 of 9677
I am curious to know if crossing two FV15s @ 100Hz would be problematic. As far as I understand it, if the LFE input is used, the FR should be flat to 200Hz; is that correct?

I know there is always the possibility of localization but that doesn't matter much based on where the subs will go.

Cheers~
post #6248 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Follz20 View Post

I am curious to know if crossing two FV15s @ 100Hz would be problematic. As far as I understand it, if the LFE input is used, the FR should be flat to 200Hz; is that correct?

Quite right.

Quote:


I know there is always the possibility of localization but that doesn't matter much based on where the subs will go.

Cheers~

My F12SE/A370PEQ3 crossover point is 110 hz. This has worked well; no localisation problems.
post #6249 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofast1 View Post

From my post #6243(above); "Use the subtuner2 to set the sub distance". That is how Brian says to set the phase of the sub to match the mains. The subtuner2 (Brian's own design) uses the actual distances.

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/subtuner2.html

Did you read the link I gave? He uses phase at the crossover point to optimize the response, which is more than just the physical distance setting in the AVR. Setting the delay to match the physical distance is not sufficient; you have to phase-align the sub and the mains at the crossover frequency to optimize the wavefronts at the listening position. I am not saying you are wrong, just that you might be able to do a little more and have it sound even better.
post #6250 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Did you read the link I gave? He uses phase at the crossover point to optimize the response, which is more than just the physical distance setting in the AVR. Setting the delay to match the physical distance is not sufficient; you have to phase-align the sub and the mains at the crossover frequency to optimize the wavefronts at the listening position. I am not saying you are wrong, just that you might be able to do a little more and have it sound even better.

For what it's worth, the Subtuner has me set the distance 3 ft. shorter than actual distance when I input everything.
post #6251 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Did you read the link I gave? He uses phase at the crossover point to optimize the response, which is more than just the physical distance setting in the AVR. Setting the delay to match the physical distance is not sufficient; you have to phase-align the sub and the mains at the crossover frequency to optimize the wavefronts at the listening position.

Yup,did you look at the link I gave? That's why I said to use the subtuner2(which requires the input of the actual distance) to set the sub distance! I never said to enter the actual(physical) distance of the sub into the manual set-up. I think we're saying the same thing.
post #6252 of 9677
Apologies, I have not used Subtuner and assumed you were entering physical distance into YPAO. When you said:

Quote:


Try this,you'll need a tape measure and a decent spl meter. Measure the actual distance from your LP to each speaker. Go into manual set-up and enter those distances. Use the subtuner2 to set the sub distance. Turn the volume up to around -15 and turn the test tone on.Using the spl meter at your LP,adjust the levels(in manual set-up) so they all read the same on the meter(when you select each speaker,the test tone will stay on that speaker). It doesn't matter what number the meter reads,as long as it reads the same for all speakers. Be sure that all speakers are set to small. You've just out-YPAOed the YPAO! Enjoy!

I thought you meant to set the physcial distance in YPAO's "manual setup", thinking subtuner was part of YPAO (my last Yammie is in the upstairs bedroom and I have not piddled with it for a while).

Sorry - Don
post #6253 of 9677
Hi I was wondering on my FV15HP if I should leave the limiter on or off? Because When I leave it on I hear thumb from the sub Because Of my Anti-mode 8033c.
post #6254 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lylelljr View Post

I'm really interested to hear your impressions of the FV15 once it breaks in. I'm considering the FV15 or FV15HP to satisfy my upgradeitis once I get the cash saved up.

It's your call between the FV15 or the HP. But I can tell you that the FV15 in my listening enviroment is just plain awesome! I ran Audyssey and it set everything correctly (from what people are saying here) LPF of LFE is 100hz, distance is 11.2 ft. which is correct. I played several battle scenes from Saving Private Ryan. And all that LFE that was missing with my Paradigm? There big time! Now I know what everyone's talking about!! Next was Das Boot, the depth charges scenes...WOW!!! Music wise I'm hearing bass that I haven't heard before. The guys on the Shootout? They were right on with what they said, "incredibly powerful sub" Now here's my question...

WHAT I DON'T UNDERSTAND IS THE PEQ AND IT'S SETTINGS! HELP!!

Jeff
post #6255 of 9677
@pronghorn/az

Glad to hear you like the FV15

Re; the PEQ. It stands for Parametric EQualiser and can be used to boost or cut a specified frequency by +3dB or -12dB respectively. The bandwidth knob specifies how wide or narrow the boost or cut will be. My suggestion, if you don't have any external EQ, would be to use the PEQ to cut your most troublesome room mode.

More info here:

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/amplifier_controls.html
post #6256 of 9677
Thanks Pronghorn. It sounds like you can't go wrong with either model, so I think it will come down to if I want to spend that extra $150.00 for the HP model. My room is ~3000 cubit feet, so I think either would rock it hard.
post #6257 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Apologies, I have not used Subtuner and assumed you were entering physical distance into YPAO. When you said:
I thought you meant to set the physcial distance in YPAO's "manual setup", thinking subtuner was part of YPAO (my last Yammie is in the upstairs bedroom and I have not piddled with it for a while).

Sorry - Don

No worries. peace,brother.
post #6258 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay500000 View Post

Hi I was wondering on my FV15HP if I should leave the limiter on or off? Because When I leave it on I hear thumb from the sub Because Of my Anti-mode 8033c.

How loud is the thump? You can also use your fingers one the surround to feel how much excursion the thump produces. If it is not too much, you may not need to worry about the damage it causes. As to reduce the thump, turn on rumble filter will help a bit. But the dilemma is the rumble filter on FV15HP needs to match the number of ports you use. It is not a setting you can arbitrarily change.
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post #6259 of 9677
I cannot use Rumble Filter on because one port is plugged. By sound it is a pretty decent thump it only happens when the sub kicks on. Leaving the limiter off no thump. Is having the limiter on important? I could always switch it on when the sub turns on then switch it back off. What do you think I should do?
post #6260 of 9677
I am seeking recommendation for next rev of FV12. I plan to move the port to the back so that we can cover the front entirely with grille.
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post #6261 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I am seeking recommendation for next rev of FV12. I plan to move the port to the back so that we can cover the front entirely with grille.

Brian, why is it can you cover the entire front of FV15 with the grill but not the FV12? Ports on the FV15 are out the front as well.
post #6262 of 9677
Brian do you still have plans to make a mid-level sub, you mentioned it being similar to the FV15, but with a lesser quality driver? Something similar to the FV12.

As far as the FV12, I actually like the port in the front.
post #6263 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I am seeking recommendation for next rev of FV12. I plan to move the port to the back so that we can cover the front entirely with grille.

Brian the subwoofer is awesome the way it is, aesthetically the pictures online do no justice. I wasn't a fan at first, but after unboxing this baby I stand corrected Keep up the great work!
post #6264 of 9677
I have to share something funny. We just moved into our new house and recently met our neighbors. My wife was over there talking to them the other day and they said they thought they heard thunder that evening, but checked the weather channel and saw nothing. She told them it was my new subwoofer. When she came back in the house and mentioned this to me I couldn't stop smiling At the time they heard it they were on their back porch and did mention that they could not hear it once inside. Good thing because I don't want to piss off my neighbors already lol On another note we were having some issues receiving our mail, but the post office finally cleared it up today, so I can finally watch War of the Worlds. God help them if they are home.....
post #6265 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

That scene will never be the same once you watch it with a "real sub" like your FV12. In fact I'll bet ya that you watch it more than once.

Enjoy!

Regards,

RTROSE

3 words "OH MY GOD" I think I just wet my pants. I played chapter or scene 5 and WOW...... This subwoofer rocked my entire house especially when the thing started zapping people my entire couch was shaking. I can't stop smiling and yes I watched it twice bymyself. The wife is fixing to be home so make that 3 times. This sub played that scene without breaking a sweat and with some scary authority. How you guys handle the FV15 boggles my mind. Brian you hit a home run with this... Entry level my a** My couch was shaking and my wifes little shitzu ran for cover hahahhahaah
post #6266 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post

3 words "OH MY GOD" I think I just wet my pants. I played chapter or scene 5 and WOW...... This subwoofer rocked my entire house especially when the thing started zapping people my entire couch was shaking. I can't stop smiling and yes I watched it twice bymyself. The wife is fixing to be home so make that 3 times. This sub played that scene without breaking a sweat and with some scary authority. How you guys handle the FV15 boggles my mind. Brian you hit a home run with this... Entry level my a** My couch was shaking and my wifes little shitzu ran for cover hahahhahaah

You beat me to it!!! I just watched the Pod emergence scene on my FV15 also!! I NEVER, EVER, heard that scene played like that! My floor was vibrating, as was the chair/couch, and the walls were creaking! The lightening scene? Every bolt was hitting me in the chest. I just wish I had my sound meter out to see what the db's were. My Integra receiver was at -45 in volume so I wasn't near what usually play movies at. Awesome Brian, just plain awesome.

On the FV12, agreed with everyone here, make a full cover for the sub and keep the port in front.

Jeff
post #6267 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I am seeking recommendation for next rev of FV12. I plan to move the port to the back so that we can cover the front entirely with grille.

If you move the port to the back make it down firing with the box a little shorter and fatter to maintain the same volume. This way you can do away with the grille and shave production costs a little.
post #6268 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I am seeking recommendation for next rev of FV12. I plan to move the port to the back so that we can cover the front entirely with grille.

That's a great idea.
post #6269 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by jw00dy View Post

Brian do you still have plans to make a mid-level sub, you mentioned it being similar to the FV15, but with a lesser quality driver? Something similar to the FV12.

As far as the FV12, I actually like the port in the front.

The dimension of FV15 has kept the shipping cost higher. So it makes sense to have an enclosure size between FV12 and FV15. It would be around 16-1/2" wide x 22" (H) and 22"(D). I don't have designated a model name to it yet. But it will be 350-400WRMS and 12" driver (in order to use narrow front baffle size). For this model, I may even make it down-firing and ports facing back.

As for grille covering front of FV12, it is due to cost. The transparent grille on FV15 is difficult to make. Blemish on the paint over grille becomes more visible. And hence the cost is higher. For our higher priced models, we can do that. For entry level products, we need to go with more economical solution. Pricing difference of $50 in that range seems to make a huge difference.

BTW, Larry, there isn't much room to play with the depth of the enclosure because that is the dimension to accommodate ports.
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post #6270 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post


The dimension of FV15 has kept the shipping cost higher. So it makes sense to have an enclosure size between FV12 and FV15. It would be around 16-1/2" wide x 22" (H) and 22"(D). I don't have designated a model name to it yet. But it will be 350-400WRMS and 12" driver (in order to use narrow front baffle size). For this model, I may even make it down-firing and ports facing back.

Very interesting news, Mr Ding, and thanks for the heads-up. I'm kicking around some upgrade plans... any idea on your projected availability? Ballpark.
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